So, what I see is Clorossis and ph issue.
When you do a Run off test for ph and it's 7.0 in dirt you can not really lower it easily like if you grew in coco. Here is what I have done in the past.
Useing only teverse osmosis or distilled water in 1 gal container, add PH DOWN and bring your PH to 5 then slowly add the water untill 20% run off. Wait for the water to stop running off into your tray. Now, test the water in the tray. You should see a drop from 7 originally. IN dirt Never ever do more than one Ph change per week. DIRT RETAINS allot of water and you will end up with root rot trying to flush or ph adjust with to much watering.
When you feed Dirt, it should be very Light as the soil has Nutrients for Veg and flower for the 1st 3 months from seedling in new dirt. When we grow in dirt, or coco we purify the Dirt 1st then PH balance or buffer the Medium before we plant or Add top dressing. PURIFICATION is a simple process but nessasary as it Kills all sitting molds, diseases, bugs, larva, etc that could be present in the dirt. BUFFERING is simply adding a 5 ph distilled or RO Watering after PURIFICATION to bring down the ph to 5.5-6. Always ADD nutes accordingly by manufacturer instructions but always Double check the Solution before Ph buffering the solution with ph and Ec / ppm testers. Depending on stage you want the PPM do be right and the Ph to be perfect before you add to the plants.
In coco it's super easy to adjust and you can flush as much as you want as the retension of water is Minimal and oxegen levels are more than adequate.
I USE
General Hydroponics flora Kleen to flush, it automatically ph level of any water ph to 6.0 and gets rid of salt, mineral build up, gives medium Balance again. COCO is Innert. Always ph 7.0 never fluctuates. Only the water Ro ph will vary. Rule of thumb is this for coco..
What ever you Start with for PH is what the Roots will take in at time of absorption. Don't freak out if the RO is Not the same as what went in. Your margin of ph is .5 - 1 ph of start.
In coco, nutes must be dialed in perfect accordingly to the Stage the plant is in.
Rule of thumb for me is Seedling I want ph 6.5 and PPM 200
Week 2 Veg week 1 I like 500 ppm 6.5ph
Week 2 - 8 Veg i like 500- 700 ppm 6 ph
Trans should be around 700 ppm 5.5 ph
Flower Week 1-4 700 - 800 ppm 5.5ph
Flower 4-6 mid flower 800 - 1000 ppm 5.5 ph
Flower late flower 600-800 ppm 5.5ph
Ripen stage last 2 weeks before harvest 400-600 ppm. 6. Ph
Rinse flush 1 week 6 ph
When in coco, I never ever use anything but coco coir and perlite. 30% perlite 70% coco coir. Nothing else. My fergitation cycle is 1m feed every 4 hours for 16 hrs / 20 hr day on a RdwcW system. Recycle deep water cycle to waist. I mix 15 gal of nutrients once every week, flush between stages.
when you notice Yellowing, diagnose the leaf well. Where is it yellow? Tips? Body? Veins? Edges? Is it curling? Up or down ?
Is there brown spots? Edges going brown? All mean different things.
Clorosis is Toxic nitrogen when feeding.
Bring down the Amount of N when mixing. I Always start with N - Grow, then Micro then Bloom then supliments and at the end Aftet Ph and PPM testing i add 5ml / gal 5% h202 in the mix at the end.this gives more oxegen to the Roots, kills bacteria, molds, breaks down Salts, mineral Build up and is a natural steroid for Roots. Pure Honey is also a wicked root starter for seedlings.here is a summary of Yellow leaf symptoms.
Id like to suggest an APP that is very useful in getting a close diagnosis for treatment. PLANT PARENT APP.
Hope I was helpful...
chlorosis
Symptoms of overwatering
Leaves turning yellow-brown, from the bottom of the plant moving upward
As leaves wilt, they become wet and mushy
New growth becomes brown
Rotting roots may give off a musty smell
Symptoms of underwatering
Yellow leaves throughout the plant
Leaves shrivel but take on a dry, crispy quality
Whole plant could begin to sag
Growth will slow and eventually stop
Symptoms of pH issues
Yellowing leaves
Brown spots on leaves
Drying leaves
Slow or stalled growth
Symptoms of nutrient lockout and nutrient deficiencies
Leaves yellowing at outer edges and veins (magnesium)
Leaves yellowing at base and moving toward the tips (sulphur)
Yellowing of older, lower leaves, moving upward (nitrogen)
Discolouration starting at the tip of the leaf and moving inward (phosphorous)
Dull colouration and “burning” (potassium)
Brown spots on upper fan leaves (calcium)
Symptoms of light burn
Yellowing or browning of upper fan leaves, and potentially on sugar leaves and buds too
Lower leaves shouldn’t be affected; if they are, something else is going on
Symptoms of excessive temperatures
Discolouration of fan leaves
Thin and wispy bud production
Symptoms of bud rot
Yellowing of sugar leaves from the base outward, as the base of the bud rots first
Brown spots on buds, with the whole flower eventually turning brown
Wet, rotten patches
