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Bloombastic
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Hello,I'm also thinking to buy the same light,maybe next year!please let me know how's your grow experience when u'll get it!have good time!
Mars Hydro Led Grow Light Family
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BeglianHaze
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My little experiment,the tent is all for you now :D:eyepiece:
MarsG
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:love2::love2::love2: Thanks for sharing with us BeglianHaze
weedlover85
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eastcoastjoe
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I never had burnt leaves before from a led, I've had bleaching but not burning. What do you think is happening @bobericc is it the heat giving you issues you think ? I What Mars model are you using bro ? I gotta agree, that's a pretty noticeable difference, the plants in the last 3 pictures look perfect. Sorry for your troubles bro, I totally understand your frustration.
My mars2 actually worked decent but it just made so much heat it wasn't worth it.
My mars2 actually worked decent but it just made so much heat it wasn't worth it.
MarsG
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@bobericc Hi Bobericc, I feel really bad for you... 600W is our old model LED light, it's rarely to hear it burnt the plants, we have sold many many old model lights till now, never heard it burnt leaves. :sweating: It's even rarely to hear any brand LED burn leaves.
So, Could you please send me a pic without the light on? So that I can see clearly about the color of the leaves. Because according to the pics you sent to me, I can't be sure which problem, many factors can burn the leaves, maybe the PH, the nutrition( Most time we figured out nutrition is the main reason for the unhealthy look of leaves.)
Best Wishes,
So, Could you please send me a pic without the light on? So that I can see clearly about the color of the leaves. Because according to the pics you sent to me, I can't be sure which problem, many factors can burn the leaves, maybe the PH, the nutrition( Most time we figured out nutrition is the main reason for the unhealthy look of leaves.)
Best Wishes,
MarsG
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Good Morning Eastcoastjoe,
I think Bobericc is using Mars old model 600W, but I really don't think any LED light can burn the leaves.
BTW, I have PM you about your lights. The repair shop just figured out there is no problem of the both lighs you have.:sweating:The repair guy told me he didn't find any probelm of the fan or the led or the driver, he had tested it and fount out your 2 lights work the same as other lights do, so there might be another factor gave the heat issue. I have shipped a new panel to you earlier because I didn't want you to wait so long, but it's fine. :) So for now we will ship one of your fine lights back to you.
I'm sorry Eastcoastjoe, but I believe after experiencing all of these it will work better in your next grow, and I hope there will be no any problem happen. But remember, if you will have any question or meet any problem, we will be always here for helping you. :)
Best wishes,
eastcoastjoe
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Well Mars there's no suprise there, how did I know you would say that. Thank you for wasting my time. I will drop off your new panel to the UPS store in the morning , I don't want you thinking you did me any favors at all.
It's just funny your still blaming my environment but I'm now using a bigger light in the same space, same fans at half speed and it's much cooler. I'm not even going to stay mad it's been a very good reminder of why I should buy American products, at least they back there warranties and stand behind there products. So let me guess Mars , you sent me a free light because you guys are nice people right ? I think the logic is now my tent will run half as hot because now I'll only have 1 shitty panel and 1 new panel right ?
It's just funny your still blaming my environment but I'm now using a bigger light in the same space, same fans at half speed and it's much cooler. I'm not even going to stay mad it's been a very good reminder of why I should buy American products, at least they back there warranties and stand behind there products. So let me guess Mars , you sent me a free light because you guys are nice people right ? I think the logic is now my tent will run half as hot because now I'll only have 1 shitty panel and 1 new panel right ?
MarsG
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Dear Eastcoastjoe, it's not our intention to find out there is no probelm of your lights. Mars Hydro is a big company, we can't fool customers in that bad way. What we were doing was indeed trying to help customers, at the same while maintain the order of company.
I really wish next time you can grow happily. But, no matter HPS or LED you like, just choose a way which is the best for you.
Best Wishes :)
weedlover85
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wich kind of light do you use now ? und how much heat C´ ?
and bevor ?
best greetz :)
MarsG
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Shared by a user of Mars Hydro, using Mars Pro Epistar 320, the sun raise and sun set model really looks good, huh? Here is what you guys might like: set 10% red lights on, no blue and white lights on for 10 minutes, then the red goes up to 20% and blue/white comes on with 10% power and it goes like that for that hour until they both reach for power for 10 hours then it goes the other way little by little powering off and ending with 10% red for the last 10 minutes. :):smoking::smoking:
weedlover85
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the youtube video shows how its works :cool::love1:
best greetz :)
BeglianHaze
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Hello,
what's your soil? may i know the distance from led to plants? tent temperature?and the tent size? maybe just one of this things can make ur main leaves get wrapped like that
BeglianHaze
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well, from your words everything sounds fine...what do you use for fertilize it? maybe this can help you, and i suggest u to check on the net jorge cervantes book...it is really helpful, an old but gold guide!
BeglianHaze
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Did you move plants to a bigger pot recently?
DrFever
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You sound like a broken fucking record dude seriously whinning about heat maybe you could easily purchase a extraction Fan lmao
again were only talking actual draw of less then 400 watt actual draw and you got issues dam man but you consistently cry and cry Get over our self not like your going to make pounds anyways haha,
But you sure make it sound like it thou.. that mars has delayed your business venture
And there all at fault
You know if i was Mars i would of never sent you a new one but waited on reply from the cheap american repair shop with all that said i then would of told you to beat it
Mars went over the above for you but you consistently cry MURDER like a little crying baby wanting is milk bottle ..
Now here is some advice go to a pc repair shop purchase a couple of pc fans for your shoe box grow ,
Now i got to go and trim some pounds off my tree grow
East coast snap out of it blow your nose get you grow back going and don't be so fucking cheap buy a exhaust fan not some cheap pc fans
DEAL WITH IT
Only one that was wasting there time Was MARS on you maybe you should learn the basics of enviroment and controlling air exchange
To think that owe i got LED and no need to worry about heat ???? its there fault my shoe box is to hot
Owe and now i bet your reply is going to be cause i got free stuf from mars i am ust sticking up for them Wake up call dude yo yo hangers have not arrived i am not crying i give a crap if they do or dont arrive means nothing
And now that there is nothing wrong so a licensed tech says must i add not MARS a outside source ?? maybe with money lot by mars for paying this guy theyy shouldnt and say its on you cause nothing was or is wrong
HOW YOU LIKE THEM APPLES you want your lights back pay the repair shop cause nothing was wrong with them just in your head
Last edited:
eastcoastjoe
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Coming from a man who doesn't even own a Mars light LOL. why you hanging around here and your not even a LED grower. that's right, you wanted to buy a setup a little bigger than mine but your talking shit about my little tent grow lol. where's your grow at big shot and not that shitty outdoor grow ?
to answer your question you prick, I do have exhaust fans you damn nitwit, there vortex fans not pc fans, can't you read? I told you before to stop talking shit if you don't know what your talking about. all you do is come around here talking crap and you don't read anything. If you don't like what I say doc you don't have to read my posts, use the ignore button. you talk about learning environment control and air exchange ? i bet you my whole seed stash if you read every post of mine in this thread you will see i already spoke on that smart guy ? i have that covered, i am actually cooling a 600 easier than both LED's but you wouldn't know that because you don't read.
Since your such a know it all I'm sure your garden looks perfect, where's all your pictures ? i saw all your shitty outdoor pictures, you cant even grow good under the sun you gotta make excuses like your making BHO with them so it dont matter how they look hehe. Just another troll
your a fool hehe learn how to read and write. id be glad to talk if i could understand the jibberish
to answer your question you prick, I do have exhaust fans you damn nitwit, there vortex fans not pc fans, can't you read? I told you before to stop talking shit if you don't know what your talking about. all you do is come around here talking crap and you don't read anything. If you don't like what I say doc you don't have to read my posts, use the ignore button. you talk about learning environment control and air exchange ? i bet you my whole seed stash if you read every post of mine in this thread you will see i already spoke on that smart guy ? i have that covered, i am actually cooling a 600 easier than both LED's but you wouldn't know that because you don't read.
Since your such a know it all I'm sure your garden looks perfect, where's all your pictures ? i saw all your shitty outdoor pictures, you cant even grow good under the sun you gotta make excuses like your making BHO with them so it dont matter how they look hehe. Just another troll
your a fool hehe learn how to read and write. id be glad to talk if i could understand the jibberish
BeglianHaze
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Oh...that's the main reason in my opinion...stress!!:speechless:
B
Bloombastic
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Nutrient burn is most common when feeding cannabis too-high levels of bottled nutrients and especially chemical nutrients (for example - hydroponic setups often use chemical nutrients that are easily available to plant roots because they increase potency and yields, but these nutrients are so accessible to the plant roots that they can cause nutrient burn if the grower adds too much).
Nutrient burn can also happen when plants or seedlings are grown directly in soil that has a high level of nutrients (a "hot" soil or growing medium) such as fresh compost, manure or a nutrient-amended soil mix. This usually happens to young seedlings, and they will "grow out of it" as they begin to use up all the nutrients in the soil, as long as more nutrients are not added.
Problem: You will notice the tips of your leaves showing the first signs of nutrient burn by turning yellow, tan, gold or brown. A light case of nutrient burn will only affect the tips of your leaves.
The yellow tips will eventually turn rusty brown and crispy. If you do not correct the problem, you may also notice the burn slowly spreading from the tips to the whole leaf. At this point, if you haven't done so already, you should immediately treat your plant (directions below) before there's more damage.
Nutrient burn can also happen when plants or seedlings are grown directly in soil that has a high level of nutrients (a "hot" soil or growing medium) such as fresh compost, manure or a nutrient-amended soil mix. This usually happens to young seedlings, and they will "grow out of it" as they begin to use up all the nutrients in the soil, as long as more nutrients are not added.
Problem: You will notice the tips of your leaves showing the first signs of nutrient burn by turning yellow, tan, gold or brown. A light case of nutrient burn will only affect the tips of your leaves.
The yellow tips will eventually turn rusty brown and crispy. If you do not correct the problem, you may also notice the burn slowly spreading from the tips to the whole leaf. At this point, if you haven't done so already, you should immediately treat your plant (directions below) before there's more damage.
MarsG
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@bobericc
Good Morning Bobericc,
Thanks for taking the pics again, I have checked it and also showed to my experienced colleague, we all don't think it looks like being burnt by light, here is an artical, hope it can help you :)
Plant Abuse Chart and Photos
Heat Stress:
Look closely below, and you’ll see the brown leaf edges that are indicative of heat stress. This damage looks alot like nutrient burn, except it occurs only at the tops of the plants closest to the lamps. There’s only one cure for this…get the heat away from the plants, either by moving the lamps or moving the plants.
Nutrient Solution Burn:
There’s a good chance that this leaf was subjected to nutrient solution burn. These symptoms are seen when the EC concentration of hydroponic solutions is too high. These symptoms also appear when strong nutrient solution is splashed onto the leaves under hot HID lamps, causing the leaves to burn under the solution.
Many hydroponic gardeners see this problem. It’s the beginning of nutrient burn. It indicates that the plants have all the nutrients they can possibly use, and there’s a slight excess. Back off the concentration of the nutrient solution just a touch, and the problem should disappear. Note that if the plants never get any worse than this leaf (figure 3), then the plants are probably just fine. Figure 4 is definitely an over-fert problem. The high level of nutrients accumulates in the leaves and causes them to dry out and burn up as shown here. You must flush with clear, clean water immediately to allow the roots to recover, and prevent further damage. Now find the cause of the high nutrient levels.
Over Watering:
The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems. Don’t be throw off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.
pH Fluctuation:
Both of these leaves in figure 6 and figure 7 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undisolvable salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower then tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium’s components leads to “hot” spots.
Ozone Damage:
Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.
NUTRIENT PROBLEMS
Root Stunting:
Root stunting is characteristic of calcium deficiency, acidity, aluminum toxicity, and copper toxicity. Some species may also show it when boron deficient. The shortened roots become thickened, the laterals become stubby, peg-like, and the whole system often discolours, brown or grey.
Symptoms localized at shoot growing points. New shoots unopened; young leaves distorted; dead leaf tips; pale green plant copper deficiency New shoots withered or dead; petiole or stem collapse; shoots stunted; green plant calcium deficiency Young leaves pale green or yellow; rosetting or dead tip; dieback; dark green plant boron deficiency
MOBILE ELEMENTS
Mobile elements are more likely to exhibit visual deficiencies in the older leaves, because during demand these elements will be exported to the new growth.
Nitrogen (N)
Nitrate – Ammonium is found in both inorganic and organic forms in the plant, and combines with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and sometimes sulfur to form amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. Nitrogen rates high as molecular weight proteins in plant tissue. Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it’s easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that’s the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Nitrogen Deficiencies:
Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.
Nitrogen Toxicity:
Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed. With breakdown of vascular tissue restricting water uptake. Stress resistance is drastically diminished.
Phosphorus (P)
Phosphorus is a component of certain enzymes and proteins, adenosine triphosphate (ATP), ribonucleic acids (RNA), deoxyribonucleic acids (DNA) and phytin. ATP is involved in various energy transfer reactions, and RNA and DNA are components of genetic information.
Phosphorus (P) deficiency:
Figure 11 is severe phosphorus (P) deficiency during flowering. Fan leaves are dark green or red/purple, and may turn yellow. Leaves may curl under, go brown and die. Small-formed buds are another main symptom. Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems. Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn’t be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency. Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.
Figure 12 shows Phosphorus (P) deficiency during vegatative growth. Many people mistaken this for a fungus, but look for the damage to occur near the end of leave, and leaves the color dull greyish with a very brittle texture.
Phosphorus (P) Toxicity:
This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.
Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the tugor pressure of it’s cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency:
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions (dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium – Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate “pH-up”), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Potassium (K) Toxicity:
Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and effect the availability of calcium.
Magnesium (Mg)
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency:
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15. Notice how in figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they’re praying? They’re praying for Mg! The tips may also twist. This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at
Good Morning Bobericc,
Thanks for taking the pics again, I have checked it and also showed to my experienced colleague, we all don't think it looks like being burnt by light, here is an artical, hope it can help you :)
Plant Abuse Chart and Photos
Heat Stress:
Look closely below, and you’ll see the brown leaf edges that are indicative of heat stress. This damage looks alot like nutrient burn, except it occurs only at the tops of the plants closest to the lamps. There’s only one cure for this…get the heat away from the plants, either by moving the lamps or moving the plants.
Nutrient Solution Burn:
There’s a good chance that this leaf was subjected to nutrient solution burn. These symptoms are seen when the EC concentration of hydroponic solutions is too high. These symptoms also appear when strong nutrient solution is splashed onto the leaves under hot HID lamps, causing the leaves to burn under the solution.
Many hydroponic gardeners see this problem. It’s the beginning of nutrient burn. It indicates that the plants have all the nutrients they can possibly use, and there’s a slight excess. Back off the concentration of the nutrient solution just a touch, and the problem should disappear. Note that if the plants never get any worse than this leaf (figure 3), then the plants are probably just fine. Figure 4 is definitely an over-fert problem. The high level of nutrients accumulates in the leaves and causes them to dry out and burn up as shown here. You must flush with clear, clean water immediately to allow the roots to recover, and prevent further damage. Now find the cause of the high nutrient levels.
Over Watering:
The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems. Don’t be throw off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.
pH Fluctuation:
Both of these leaves in figure 6 and figure 7 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undisolvable salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower then tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium’s components leads to “hot” spots.
Ozone Damage:
Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.
NUTRIENT PROBLEMS
Root Stunting:
Root stunting is characteristic of calcium deficiency, acidity, aluminum toxicity, and copper toxicity. Some species may also show it when boron deficient. The shortened roots become thickened, the laterals become stubby, peg-like, and the whole system often discolours, brown or grey.
Symptoms localized at shoot growing points. New shoots unopened; young leaves distorted; dead leaf tips; pale green plant copper deficiency New shoots withered or dead; petiole or stem collapse; shoots stunted; green plant calcium deficiency Young leaves pale green or yellow; rosetting or dead tip; dieback; dark green plant boron deficiency
MOBILE ELEMENTS
Mobile elements are more likely to exhibit visual deficiencies in the older leaves, because during demand these elements will be exported to the new growth.
Nitrogen (N)
Nitrate – Ammonium is found in both inorganic and organic forms in the plant, and combines with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and sometimes sulfur to form amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. Nitrogen rates high as molecular weight proteins in plant tissue. Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it’s easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that’s the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Nitrogen Deficiencies:
Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.
Nitrogen Toxicity:
Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed. With breakdown of vascular tissue restricting water uptake. Stress resistance is drastically diminished.
Phosphorus (P)
Phosphorus is a component of certain enzymes and proteins, adenosine triphosphate (ATP), ribonucleic acids (RNA), deoxyribonucleic acids (DNA) and phytin. ATP is involved in various energy transfer reactions, and RNA and DNA are components of genetic information.
Phosphorus (P) deficiency:
Figure 11 is severe phosphorus (P) deficiency during flowering. Fan leaves are dark green or red/purple, and may turn yellow. Leaves may curl under, go brown and die. Small-formed buds are another main symptom. Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems. Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn’t be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency. Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.
Figure 12 shows Phosphorus (P) deficiency during vegatative growth. Many people mistaken this for a fungus, but look for the damage to occur near the end of leave, and leaves the color dull greyish with a very brittle texture.
Phosphorus (P) Toxicity:
This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.
Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the tugor pressure of it’s cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency:
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions (dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium – Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate “pH-up”), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Potassium (K) Toxicity:
Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and effect the availability of calcium.
Magnesium (Mg)
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency:
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15. Notice how in figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they’re praying? They’re praying for Mg! The tips may also twist. This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at
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