My first grow

[cleocola]

This has been the most educational Web site On Gardening I have come across. Thank you, thank you, thank you. And Everyone's so pleasent and helpful. Love you guys and gals. Again Thank you.

 

[kolah]

ChickenMan, I have ammo boxes for stashing stuff..after I seal them up in mason jars. And yes, I have to make a map, lol. (oh and btw the ammo boxes have intact seals which are 100% waterproof)

Last night it dipped down to 28 degrees. 62 in the greenhouse. :)
My lone gal outside (in a trash can full of soil) and covered with a blanket is still kicking too. Dum dee doo, de dum. :cool0041:

OK, Recently I saw a thread written by DJ Short on his method of curing but now I can't find the sucker.
I think my Skunk and Elephant Budi are getting close to harvest time as I am starting to see a few amber aliens on the top colas. The others are coming back around and I think the heater has helped. My G-13 x Deep Hash strain has a ton of stigmas (fuzzy hairs). They look like a blonde Jimi Hendix afro! Hah!

 

[kolah]

This has been the most educational Web site On Gardening I have come across. Thank you, thank you, thank you. And Everyone's so pleasent and helpful. Love you guys and gals. Again Thank you.

I looked at a lot of MMJ grow websites before choosing this one. I agree with you 100%.

 

[kolah]

found it:

 

[kolah]

blip (deleted)

 

[kolah]

Oh shit. I think my Elephant Bud has powdery mildew Some of the lower leaves have a funky fuzz on them. They were not there yesterday. I am just about ready to harvest. I picked all of the effected leaves off. I found a few on my DJ BB too. Sonofabitch!

I'd bet the propane heater at night (which upped the humidity to 70-80%) and poor ventilation at night caused it.

I have stayed with all organics up to now.
What are my options?
Will this shit spread to my other plants?
I need some help asap.

 

[maestro]

Watch out for pm n bud rot too. Greencure is a lifesaver for outdoor right at the end.

peace

got a toothache gots me grouchy

 

[kolah]

Whata fuckin dumabass rookie I am. I might just pull the plant.

I'll have to get some Greencure asap. Here's info on Greencure:



Should I spray all my plants? I got 9 others budding in the greenhouse. I just read where this shit can destroy your entire crop. I looked at other pictures and I only have a few very small spots on the lower leaves (topside of the leafs).

If i get Greencure tommorow, will it save my plants?

ohh...and sorry about your tooth maestro. tooth pain sucks.

 

[maestro]

Thanks tooths feelin lil better. Smoked some dank with earwax n a lil nap.
Improve airflow if possible.
I'd get greencure now n treat it all once a week till ya harvest n mix some up spot spray in between need be. Drench them bigger nugs cuz bud rots way worse than pm n pm usually hit first. Pull all the leaf matter thats got the pm throw it away. Green cure can sometimes hurt the hairs under intense light but late in the game its not gonna hurt anything but will save your nugs. Its basically a foodgrade cousin of bakin soda so its safe to use late....I use it until last week flower if I need to ...

 

[kolah]

Thanks! I will harvest my EB plant tonight. (maybe my Skunk #1 as well). I worry about the 7 others. ...and yeah you called it right, that fucking heater and poor ventilation caused it (I bet). I guess it's time for a fuckin solar powered fan. Down the slippery slope of MMJ growing I go, LOL.

I won't be able to get Greencure until tomorrow, hopefully some place in Col Springs will have it. I just hope this will save my other plants?

 

[DoobyScoo]

I'm not sure if this is correct or not, but some ppl on another site claim that GreenCure is basically Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) in solution of water.

General Cornrow Wallace
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABR3ibIeSU8

Edit: Now I see, Maestro has already hinted at the BiCarb last page.

 

[kolah]

Yes Doob..and thanks. I will try to find Greencure tomorrow but am having trouble locating some in the CS area. I could mix up a homemade soultion of bicarb but would rather go with GC. My biggest worry is that the whole fucking greenhouse will get infected. I am sure the friggin spores are everywhere by now. I was even worrying about picking off leaves as that only spreads the evil spores back into the air.

I learn shit the hard way.

from a article: "Monitor humidity levels. A quality humidity gauge should be used to monitor day and night r.h levels. Avoid prolonged high humidity levels: 50-60% r.h is ideal. Humidity must be kept below 70% during the night; levels over 80% will guarantee infection within 48 hrs."

Well, I started using the heater Sunday night. I'd bet i the PM started in 48 hours (as they stated) and it took a few days for it to rear its ugly head to my bloodshot idiotic eyeballs.

And yeah, Maestro was right on.

I did read where very high temps and low humidity can knock PM out but I am first going first try the GC bicarb. My closet grow shop (45 minute ride) has a product for PM called Serenade but I think GC is a bit more on the organic side.

and BTW, I found PM on just a few small lower leaves of my Skunk #1 plant too...and my DJ Blue. All 3 were clones. My other 6 or 7 plants were from seeds look ok (so far).

I may just harvest the Skunk and Elephant Bud tomorrow. Everything was going just motherfuckin' dandy.... until now. I don't even want to fire up the heater tonite but I have to....and I guess I will have to up open both windows. Jesus H! <grumble, grumble>

 

[maestro]

Don't get discouraged n chop early over a lil pm. If its not gotten all over the buds kudos ya caught it on time. Pull the leaves, up the airfl;ow, blast the shit out of everything....Really thats all a farmer can hope for. PM happens in the rockies in the fall especially dusty area imo the dew point in the fall is pretty intense no matter what....the sooner ya find a way to combat it safely the better. Even under ideal conditions you'll get it sometime. neem works too but never in the last two weeks or so....I order mine but somewhere in CS has gotta have it I'd hope. I wouldn't use any poison this late thats for certain better off with just usin some home made bicarb dish soap shit...which I got no experience with so can't reccomend it fopr your hard earned lovelies....

hang in there

 

[kolah]

Thanks, I should have used it as a preventive measure instead of waiting for it to hit.

I just went to the GH. I didn't have the heater on and the humidity is at 75%.
I opened the back window fully which is a 3' by 2' opening and had no choice but to turn on the heater. I will check things at Midnight....and probably again at 4 am. Fuck, this is like having a newborn in the house, lol.


Anyway, I just found this recipe (I also read where you should spray the top AND the bottom of all leaves and buds):

Here's a recipe to make your own spray:
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 quart water
A few drops of liquid soap
Before treating your plants, test the spray on a few leaves to make sure they are not too sensitive.

 

[kolah]

This is worth a go-round as I can easily get my GH up to 100 degrees in the day. (I think I need to read up on sulfur burners though)

Heat

Powdery mildew is sensitive to heat. Neither species will grow at 90 �F (32 �C). and will quickly perish when above 100 � F (38 �C).
To get a complete kill maintain the temperature for an hour. This may not be a feasible option in most indoor gardens for several reasons. The first is that it may be difficult to heat the space to such a high temperature. The second is that even a single peak of 100 � F (38 �C) affects the growth of plants. Vegetative plants with flowers or fruits in mid stage growth (weeks 3-7) may stretch a little from the experience. The heat treatment has relatively little effect on first and second week flowers or flowers nearing maturity.
You can minimize heat�s impact on plants in several ways. Heat the garden at the end of the day, as the lights are turned off. Since the plants are not photosynthesizing, they have lower water needs.
If the plants are being grown hydroponically, lower the temperature of the water to 60 degrees. Keeping the roots cool will help the upper plant parts beat the heat. It�s not difficult to do this, even if you don�t have a water chiller. Just add ice to the reservoir or flow through system. Roots of plants growing in soil can also be cooled using thermal ice packs at the base of the stem.
The heat treatment should kill off most of the fungus and its spores. The chances are there will still be some fungal re-growth. These can be eliminated using spot treatments.

another option:

Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide (hp) is a contact fungicide that leaves no residue. It is an oxidized product of water and has an extra oxygen atom that is slightly negatively charged. When it comes in contact with the fungi the oxygen atoms attach to molecules on the cell walls, oxidizing or �burning� them.
Household hp sold in drug stores has a concentration of 3%. Garden shops sell 10% hp. Zerotol� contains 27% hydrogen peroxide and an unstated amount of peroxyacetic acid. Together they have a more potent chemistry than hp, with an activity of about 40% hp. It is considered hazardous because it can cause skin burn similar to that caused by concentrated acids.
To treat plants with drug store grade 3% hp use 4 1/2 tablespoons and fill to make a pint of solution, or a quart of hp to 3 quarts of water. With horticultural grade 10% hp use about 4 teaspoons per pint, 5 ounces per gallon. With Zerotol� use about 1 teaspoon per pint, 2 1/2 tablespoons per gallon.


https://www.greenpassion.org/index.php?/topic/17610-powdery-mildew-problems-and-cures/

 

[kolah]

I harvested the Skunk #1 last night. Looking at the trichromes with a 100x magnification I had 30% clear, 50% cloudy and about 20% amber. (nice and frosty too) They are trimmed and hung for drying. Going in search of Greencure and/or some baking soda to treat my EB and the others. Right now I watered the rest of my plants up heavily, got the GH completely closed up and will let the temp go to 100 degrees inside for one hour.

Heres my Skunk #1 drying (I am just guessing and would hope to get couple ounces out of it):

 

[Seamaiden]

Kolah, it is my honest and experienced opinion that if you're needing to treat a plant that's pretty much ready to harvest, you MUST have OxiDate on hand and ready to rock & roll. I have found, though others have not, that GC can leave a soapy flavor on my buds. OxiDate does not. Both can be used up to the moment of harvest (and post-harvest), but GC simply dries back into potassium bicarbonate, whereas OxiDate dries into water after shedding that extra oxygen atom.

I would not use sodium bicarbonate myself, mostly because I would have concern about it leaving a detectable flavor like potassium bicarb.

For future GH growing you also want to have a good horticultural oil, like JMS stylet, on hand. It's a physical barrier and does a great job of squelching PM, as well as being good for treatment for some pests, such as spider mites. I've never used it up to the day of harvest, though it's labeled as safe IIRC, but would have some concern about pulling plants with any oily residue on them, I'd prefer it be washed off.

 

[DoobyScoo]

1) High humidity at night (esp w/ high temps), with restricted airflow/circulation of fresh air always is the culprit in Colo., or at least the breeding ground.
2) PM is a fungus.
Serenade is organic as I understand it. The thing is, it is a 'microbial', therefore it is questionable of it's effect on humans in a ingested form. (Stomach, acid. Inhalation, lungs {wet, warm and circulating},
http://www.serenadegarden.com/labels-msds/SG-RTU-MSDS-061610.pdf
3) No Sulfur. Way to late, don't want shit to smell/taste like that.
4) You gonna need to fumigate your greenhouse this next year. Then, sulfur as a preventative and maintainence during summer.

Or,
Lower humidity, increase airflow/circulation, try adding Silica to the mix (supposed to help cell structure {thus a penetrating fungus would have less opening of attack}),
Also can get cooler air in GH by putting an intake tube underground, abuut 10 feet. It falls into the realm of 'GeoThermal' (not technically, as GT is about electricity production).
Just using air instead of liquids.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pump

And I like using the hippe hemp soap, Dr Bronners as a surfacant instead of regular dish soap.

And always, Eagle 20 your moms/clones, till that shit ain't around anymore.

Right now, yeah, you're monitoring your baby. Thank you California dispensary douchebags that don't know how to fucking grow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

P.S. Not all Californians, just the Douches! Like the ones that still sell infected clones to their 'patients'. I really feel sorry for those 'patients'.

 

[maestro]

I dont spray my plants with anything the last couple weeks......but in a bad situation I have used dilute h2o2 to clean up buds I just harvested with a a bit of pm problems. Preventions worth a POUND of cure. Never noticed any soapy taste from greencure but I guarantee the plants uptake almost all of the "residues" just like a foliar feed in the end.....rather it be potassium than sodium....just my opinion.....rinse them
with water after ya harvest get that shit off.....been there too.........
almost every organic fungicide besides the oil based knock downs......work by OXIDIZING the fungus....it can and will oxidize your trichs too if overdone so use all that shit sparingly late in bloom.


Seamaiden I like them barn trees! Wish I was yo goat!

peace

 

[kolah]

I am not even running the heater tonite and I have 80% RH. wtf? Well, I guess it's all relative, haha. I better get a fan asap.