need help /advice bottom leaves turning yellow tips drying and dying curling up

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Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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We had them bad. so we got the stuff and tried it. 75% of the critters were gone after the first treatment. 2 more treatments and we haven't seen one since. My wife sprays the soil and then tills it in. We use fabric pots so them entering the drain holes was never an issue.
Honestly you have more experience than I do right there... I delt with en once at a buddies... BTI and yell sticky traps also cleaned em up pretty fast.

Since he adds a dunk once a month as preventative and not had an issue since.
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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Honestly you have more experience than I do right there... I delt with en once at a buddies... BTI and yell sticky traps also cleaned em up pretty fast.

Since he adds a dunk once a month as preventative and not had an issue since.
We have almost every possible pest here where we live and it can be a constant battle if you don't stay on top of it.
Be very careful not to mix your indoor plants with the outdoor. Bug transfer is almost guaranteed.
BTI is good stuff, but it doesn't get all the different stuff the PT does. We went this way because it's supposed to be safer for the plant.
Be really happy you don't have leaf miners.
 
KushNAshn

KushNAshn

30
18
Toss some BTI in with the watering or crush and put on top of the soil. Add yellow sticky traps to catch the adults.
Running GrowSafeTM, Lost coast plant therapy, and past week added in monterrey take down garden spray. Have a bunch of traps. I feel in my case the only thing that kept the colony alive was the fact that I didn't put a sandpaper or perlite layer on the top thus they would lay larvae. I no longer have fully grown adult fliers but tiny tiny fliers. I have sand I will be topping the medium with today and hopefully I can eradicate them entirely. I had left all the ugly leaves on until last night and decided to clip them all off. Visually the plants look much better now. Was hesitant as I still feel they may damage new leaves now.



This is a leaf that is exactly like the OP's and later would turn into like the pictures from above.
 
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KushNAshn

KushNAshn

30
18
Running GrowSafeTM, Lost coast plant therapy, and past week added in monterrey take down garden spray. Have a bunch of traps. I feel in my case the only thing that kept the colony alive was the fact that I didn't put a sandpaper or perlite layer on the top thus they would lay larvae. I no longer have fully grown adult fliers but tiny tiny fliers. I have sand I will be topping the medium with today and hopefully I can eradicate them entirely. I had left all the ugly leaves on until last night and decided to clip them all off. Visually the plants look much better now. Was hesitant as I still feel they may damage new leaves now.



This is a leaf that is exactly like the OP's and later would turn into like the pictures from above.
I also hear that cinnamon works really amazing to repel the pests and so do certain other plants and their terpenes.

Will add BTI. I'm not sure what other variable I'm missing? I also live by the beach with a lot of bugs around my apartment so not sure if I'm in a losing position.
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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You have to work the Plant Therapy into the soil when you spray it. The FG's are about a half inch under the soil, so when you spray, till it into the top inch.
Do you have a couple of thermometers? Put one on the floor and one at canopy height. Lets see what the difference is.
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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The beach? Salt air. I've seen salt air kill an entire grow.
How close are you to the beach? Do you get the "shore mist"?
Shore Mist as I call it is an almost perpetual mist in the first 100 yards from the water.
Because of wind and temp interactions, there is a salt water mist that never seems to go away as long as the sun is up.
 
KushNAshn

KushNAshn

30
18
I live about 1 1/2 miles away from the beach here in socal. Oddly enough since there is a slight elevation I don't get much of the mist or fog, but just the cooler weather.

I have no idea salt air. I would have to see some pictures to make some comparisons to see if it was just the air quality.

I would switch pesticides every watering and would try to get them in soil. I even waited till plants were begging for water just so I could overload them and make sure the soil would be fully saturated with no pockets.

Originally the gnats would be full sized and after the pesticides they appear to be half the size as if no longer able to grow and live, but when each one lays 200+ larvae it would seem that some of them make it and become fliers albeit tinier.
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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I live about 1 1/2 miles away from the beach here in socal. Oddly enough since there is a slight elevation I don't get much of the mist or fog, but just the cooler weather.

I have no idea salt air. I would have to see some pictures to make some comparisons to see if it was just the air quality.

I would switch pesticides every watering and would try to get them in soil. I even waited till plants were begging for water just so I could overload them and make sure the soil would be fully saturated with no pockets.

Originally the gnats would be full sized and after the pesticides they appear to be half the size as if no longer able to grow and live, but when each one lays 200+ larvae it would seem that some of them make it and become fliers albeit tinier.
You will still get salt air, but it won't be as bad at your distance. Do you ever have to hose the salt off your car? That's one way to tell.
You might try flushing with plain filtered water and see if that helps. It can't hurt. Also, don't let the soil fully dry out if you are doing organic growing. All your organic goodies will hibernate and when you water again it takes them a day or two to get active again. Just lightly damp is best.
 
KushNAshn

KushNAshn

30
18
You will still get salt air, but it won't be as bad at your distance. Do you ever have to hose the salt off your car? That's one way to tell.
You might try flushing with plain filtered water and see if that helps. It can't hurt. Also, don't let the soil fully dry out if you are doing organic growing. All your organic goodies will hibernate and when you water again it takes them a day or two to get active again. Just lightly damp is best.
Yeah thankfully no salt residue where I am. Definitely the few blocks nearby the beaches do, but in the winter generally every morning has fog.

I understand the microbes need water nice to know it takes a day or two, but also noticed they spring up as soon as watering would happen and also the soil was plenty hot nute wise also thrown in plenty of mykos and power si. Tap water is currently @ 200ppms was adding occasional cal mag for led, but didn't want to overadd incase of lockout, flush every few weeks or so is what I do as it seems the consensus is not too wash away too much nuts. LOL I'm also not opposed to using mineral based nutes either
I don't prefer anything quite frankly, but hydro appeals the most other than the fact I'm on a upper floor and a leak issue concerns me far too much. Organic is nice because much less waste and simply organic at the end of of day, watching a lot of scaled growers and here I'm under an impression organics with a smidge of chelated nutes will give best potency and flavor. Still learning unfortunately the hard way.
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

6,099
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Yeah thankfully no salt residue where I am. Definitely the few blocks nearby the beaches do, but in the winter generally every morning has fog.

I understand the microbes need water nice to know it takes a day or two, but also noticed they spring up as soon as watering would happen and also the soil was plenty hot nute wise also thrown in plenty of mykos and power si. Tap water is currently @ 200ppms was adding occasional cal mag for led, but didn't want to overadd incase of lockout, flush every few weeks or so is what I do as it seems the consensus is not too wash away too much nuts. LOL I'm also not opposed to using mineral based nutes either
I don't prefer anything quite frankly, but hydro appeals the most other than the fact I'm on a upper floor and a leak issue concerns me far too much. Organic is nice because much less waste and simply organic at the end of of day, watching a lot of scaled growers and here I'm under an impression organics with a smidge of chelated nutes will give best potency and flavor. Still learning unfortunately the hard way.
We all had to learn somehow. I much prefer organics. The docs had me taking a small pharmacy 3x daily and I was drooling. I changed to Weed and I feel better and I'm not a drooling idiot... but it took time, just like learning to grow takes time. You are doing well, keep it up.
Hydro. We started to go that way but we had a leak right off and that killed that. The disp here grows hydro, and even our ok stuff is better. Our good stuff is WAY better. And no chemicals.
 
KushNAshn

KushNAshn

30
18
We all had to learn somehow. I much prefer organics. The docs had me taking a small pharmacy 3x daily and I was drooling. I changed to Weed and I feel better and I'm not a drooling idiot... but it took time, just like learning to grow takes time. You are doing well, keep it up.
Hydro. We started to go that way but we had a leak right off and that killed that. The disp here grows hydro, and even our ok stuff is better. Our good stuff is WAY better. And no chemicals.
Glad to hear it helps you. I can imagine being on meds for a long time isn't too great. Yeah a leak problem would suck. I'm wanting to crop steer and purchased an automated watering set up, but the leakage issue is still a still a bit sus and I also really wanted to get basic watering dialed.

Toward the end of my first crop I played around with the watering and learned just how long you can go with a plant before they die.
Recreational cannabis has just been so lackluster and seems they don't give it that extra 10%. Seems more homegrown buds are iced out more then overall rec weed. I blame the fact that it's prepackaged and you never can tell the freshness in person regardless if it was packaged recently. The amount of time some products are exposed to warm environments zap the flavors and terpenes right out.
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

6,099
313
Glad to hear it helps you. I can imagine being on meds for a long time isn't too great. Yeah a leak problem would suck. I'm wanting to crop steer and purchased an automated watering set up, but the leakage issue is still a still a bit sus and I also really wanted to get basic watering dialed.

Toward the end of my first crop I played around with the watering and learned just how long you can go with a plant before they die.
Recreational cannabis has just been so lackluster and seems they don't give it that extra 10%. Seems more homegrown buds are iced out more then overall rec weed. I blame the fact that it's prepackaged and you never can tell the freshness in person regardless if it was packaged recently. The amount of time some products are exposed to warm environments zap the flavors and terpenes right out.
Growing your own is the best way.
 
GDub51

GDub51

133
43
i have only been giving it 1/3 strength now
But do you have an EC meter to show the solids content of your feed water? Are you matching the amounts of supplements to fit the age of the plant window? Most feeding charts will have a column for the solids level for each stage of growing. To over simplify, keep solids content under 250ppm for seedlings, increasing slowly to as much as 1200ppm in flower.
in in 2 and 3 weeks of flower i really dont want to transplant and im using promix moisture control with add perlite
Stick to your guns here biggerbud, auto's are too fragile for transplanting. This is industry consensus not an opinion.
 
GDub51

GDub51

133
43
I did not find the chart yet, but I found his explanation for the 6.3 "At 6.5 the trace element uptake suffers which causes certain chemical reactions to suffer and you get a substandard plant."
So, it could be most say 6.5 and he has this specific reason for choosing 6.3
I leave it to you to decide.
I've always been advised to let the PH drift a little as long as it's between 5.9 and 6.5 (outdoors) as some nutes are only taken up by the plant at specific PH values. Silica is one I use to strengthen stems that requires a PH of 6.0 to work. Each is a little different which is why the drift works well if your feeding complex nutes so the PH is good for most. The Silica application is the only one I do at exactly 6.0 PH. Otherwise, let it drift within limits.
 

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