Lynch_Ironside
- Posts
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- Joined
- Nov 6, 2020
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Galaxy s8, and I did not know that. I'll give it a try! I'd still fire somebody in the filter department though
Galaxy s8, and I did not know that. I'll give it a try! I'd still fire somebody in the filter department thoughI dunno what you're taking pictures with, but there is usually a "Pro" or manual mode on smart phones where you can adjust your white balance (WB) to a specific Kelvin temperature. I dunno how well it'd work with HPS, but worth a shot ().
I might consider the diy approach... always had bad luck with anything electrical... if I were in a movie diffusing a bomb I'd definitely cut the wrong wire
I'll check out his post, thanks aqua!
Yeah, Galaxies have Pro mode if you open your camera app and go to "more"Galaxy s8, and I did not know that. I'll give it a try! I'd still fire somebody in the filter department though
You da man @belugaYeah, Galaxies have Pro mode if you open your camera app and go to "more"
I'd leave most of it on auto, but the top two tabs (if held horizontal) will be your color settings. The top one (just looks like a camera lens), you can change your contrast, tint, and saturation The second one (WB) is where you can change that Kelvin temp.
33 days from seed! Why are they so short? My friend had a plant grow for a year..fucker only got 1 1/2 feetYou da man @beluga
Still have to play around with it but much better!
I had some set backs.... the title kinda says it all33 days from seed! Why are they so short? My friend had a plant grow for a year..fucker only got 1 1/2 feet
Quick question about the initial drying process after harvest... how important is air exchange? I am using the small tent to dry and have been trying to keep the humidity near 62. It seems to have plateaued at 63.2 ish, I set the fan to kick on every hour for 15 min but this would cause the humidity to dive to 53.
After much research my original plan to keep them between 45-55 rh was scrapped and decided to go with the 62 mark.
So how important is exchange? If its holding steady should I be pulling in dry air causing me to fight these fluctuations?
That seems to be the consensus. I dont think a lot of people have the patience for it. The rough smoke, green smell and taste attributed to fast drying and improper curing is something I've experienced too many times. I'd like to avoid that. There's no way for me to hit 60f, I rerouted the exhaust from my other tent into my ventilation which gave me a 5 degree drop in the room but that's about all I can do. Plus it gives me the added benefit of using that hot air to help heat the upstairs.Low and slow is the name of the game with drying. I try to hit the 60/60 rule. 60F 60% RH. You absolutely want adequate air circulation, air exchange could equate for part of this if humidity spikes. While it's not vital to retain perfect conditions as the plants aren't transpiring any longer, you don't want long durations of less than ideal RH as you'll lose volatile compounds (terps) and the chlorophyl won't convert to sugars as effectively.
I'd say you're good at 63.5% RH, so long you have a fan moving air inside the tent. Stagnant air allows mold spores to settle, and that's what you're wanting to avoid.
That seems to be the consensus. I dont think a lot of people have the patience for it. The rough smoke, green smell and taste attributed to fast drying and improper curing is something I've experienced too many times. I'd like to avoid that. There's no way for me to hit 60f, I rerouted the exhaust from my other tent into my ventilation which gave me a 5 degree drop in the room but that's about all I can do. Plus it gives me the added benefit of using that hot air to help heat the upstairs.
I have a small fan circulating inside, and the downward spikes are when the exchange fan would kick on.... so my take away is that exchange isn't as important as circulation?
You need a good air exchange i always left a fan or 3 in the drying room along with an air conditioner and rh at 55 to 60 heat at 60 dries grewat then 14 days later final trim and cureQuick question about the initial drying process after harvest... how important is air exchange? I am using the small tent to dry and have been trying to keep the humidity near 62. It seems to have plateaued at 63.2 ish, I set the fan to kick on every hour for 15 min but this would cause the humidity to dive to 53.
After much research my original plan to keep them between 45-55 rh was scrapped and decided to go with the 62 mark.
So how important is exchange? If its holding steady should I be pulling in dry air causing me to fight these fluctuations?
Ment to upload this along with my post. Rh has dropped down a bit this morning.Your takeaway is accurate. Since you can't get lower temps, adequate circulation is vital at the RH you're sitting at. That being said, a slightly higher than ideal RH will prevent too rapid of a drying, so you'll retain more terpenes and allow the natural degradation processes to occur that make for good smoke.
Edit: the above is within reason. If you're sitting at 75F, you're still in an unlikeable position. Worst case, if you have another space that's cooler (an uninsulated garage, etc) then move the plants there. Cooler than 60F is ok, with adequate ventilation, you're just looking at a longer dry time.
Is this a home built dwc system? I made my own, i saw this problem in my plants and lost 1 of the 2 i had. I was using a 10 gallon tote. My problem was not enough oxygen in the water to support both plants. I was running an air pump for a 20 gal aquarium and 4 inch by 2 inch vivosun airstone. The other problem i had was the tote not being deep enough for the roots to hang, they just sat on the bottom. I hope this helps. I have 76-78 degree water temps, that requires alot of oxygen. I finally just bit the bullet and bought a root spa bucket system.Update...
Welp got a couple of slight issues going on. The one on the left has some yellow/brownish patches.
The one on the right seems to have a some clawing going on, nitrogen excess?
So when I mix up my water I follow aquas recommendations as closely as possible.
First I mix silica and let it sit for at least 10 min
Ph to 6.5 if needed, this is weird but when I ph down to 6.5 and add the rest of my nutrients I wind up having to use ph up to bring it to an acceptable level, so the last water change I did not ph down and it seemed to need less ph adjustment in the end.
Cal mag at 125 ppm
Gh trio at 4 ml each per gallon for 8 gallons, mixing a total of 10 gallons. So 80% strength.
Epsom salt at 5 grams
Southern ag 1ml
Res temp 67
Total ppm was 660 after mixing.
I will get some pics of the roots as well,
I think it might be a light issue causing some root rot. I didnt take into account the light coming through the side of this tote.
The roots look great to the eye but the plant is sending you signals now that its not happy. I had my problems when my plants got big and went imto flower. If i did it with a tote again i would get a deeper tote. Those yellow and black totes from walmart or lowes would work and theure cheap. You still have time to transfer right now to a deeper tote. Add pumps. These root spa buckets dont use airstones, they just pump air straight in thru the hose.Roots
I have a ton of air moving through there, 4 stones 2 4x2 and 2 1x12, and the tote is pretty deep at 10 gallons the water level is about an inch below the basket. Roots are floating in the water not resting on the bottom.The roots look great to the eye but the plant is sending you signals now that its not happy. I had my problems when my plants got big and went imto flower. If i did it with a tote again i would get a deeper tote. Those yellow and black totes from walmart or lowes would work and theure cheap. You still have time to transfer right now to a deeper tote. Add pumps. These root spa buckets dont use airstones, they just pump air straight in thru the hose.
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