Megalith1
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Will do ....im just going to trial it first see what it's like
If it's no good I will use it for my boys croupe
If it's no good I will use it for my boys croupe
Megalith1
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quick question for you all ...as the weather is getting hotter my temps are reaching 29c as my dumb ass mistake i put lights on through day and off at night (what a dick am i) is it best to change it or could i let in run?
i have done a little look up and it says og can handle a max of 31c without co2 enrichment
i have done a little look up and it says og can handle a max of 31c without co2 enrichment
william76
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Change it every day by an hour till u get to the time u want it on.76
Megalith1
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thank you ...at the moment the go off at 12am and come on at 6am
Funk junky
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You know you could alter it by a few hours a day. My lights are on a 15-9 hour schedule as less hours coupled with high humidity and low temps is said to give you more females. But when was growing outdoors most early strains would start flowering second to third week of august can't remember daylight hours although I did work it out at time
Megalith1
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Well I changed an hour last night and doing an hour tonight which will take me to 2am lights of 8am on so by the end of week I should be at the times I want
Megalith1
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This morning I give the little lady a flush through with ph 6.8 water to get rid of any salts that may have built up.
Wondering if I should start scrog soon as she getting bushy
Wondering if I should start scrog soon as she getting bushy
Funk junky
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you might want to trim your undercarriage a little but check with someone more experience I have experience but normally at doing same techniques over and over and don't have much experience on topping so will b asking for advice on this very soon myself
Megalith1
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I was thing the same but didn't want to attempt anything without clear instruction lol
As for you topping I got told wait for 6 nodes then top at 3rd but I done mine at 4th
jipp
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when you top it will Y out.. so try to image the plant what you ant it to look like. that is what im doing now..
lots to learn but its fun.,
chris.,
Megalith1
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I topped mine and I am tempted to to do it once more .....its just the defoliation I'm not sure of
william76
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U take off the bottom few branches that dont get light and are underdeveloped,can u get a close up of bottoms?.76
Thejoeybrown
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You can try some LST. put some pipe cleaners and tie the stems down outward ton the edge of the pot. All the small lower branches will shot up and reach the canopy giving you many more tops. With topping twice or even once you can make a 2 ft plant have about 20 or more tops.
Megalith1
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Funk junky
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wait till some one else verifies this but take off those two sets of branches at bottom these will try and circle round the bush to the light they will put a lot of stem growth to make it that far! lower branches remove bud sites at first node, then you mi
like matey said before envisage the plant bigger every node from every branch will create a budsight some will have to go . I would by structure of your plant take off weak lower branches and spread them leads out in diferent directions this or within a week would start scrogging. but have not used this technique yet myself but know how to make a plant concentrate on certain parts and I nearly always lst at least on seed run
Megalith1
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Thanks for the advise ...im going to get a few pipe cleaners tomorrow and tie some shit down and will have a go at taking some seeker branches off
Megalith1
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Thanks I appreciate the feedback and the tip about potting up .
I've been putting holes in sides of pots so I can try to encourage more central root growth
jipp
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Megalith1
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Here you go @jipp This is where I read about it but instead of the pots mentioned I just drilled small holes in rows around the pot
You may have a beautiful greenhouse or grow room setup, but if your pots aren’t right you could be limiting your potential yields right off the bat. This article will introduce you to the concept of air root pruning and gives a compelling argument as to why you should consider changing to aerated pots.
The roots are the veins of life that feed a plant the water and nutrients it needs to grow and flourish. Up top, the leaves of the plant breathe in carbon dioxide, down below the roots breathe oxygen. Not too much oxygen though, or the roots will “burn” through dehydration. This burning actually gently prunes the roots as they come into contact with a drier, oxygen-rich area.
Imagine in nature a cannabis plant growing on the edge of a bank, you would not expect the roots to poke out the lower side of the bank to be of equal size to those growing into the hill. This self-pruning is nature’s clever little trick to keep roots where they should be to find food – in the ground.
In the grand scale of evolution, artificial pots are a relatively new phenomenon. They were first used by the ancient horticultural masters – the Egyptians. Although this was several thousand years ago, it is nothing compared to the existence of plants, who have been on this earth for 700 million years.
The trouble with regular pots
Here’s the trouble with pots. A plant doesn’t know it’s in a pot. It feels where it is by sending out the roots that search for food. When a root hits an obstacle, it tries to find an alternative route. A new root route. If a root hits a large stone, you would expect it to go round it. You could say it does a Roots Manuva. When it hits the edge of a pot it tries to do the same thing. It has no way of knowing that the pot actually wraps 360 degrees around the plant. So it sets off to go around the obstacle, not knowing that the obstacle actually goes around it.
This means that precious growing energy is spent sending the roots around in circles in the same area of a pot using up all nutrients in this region in the process. The plant has become bound in it’s own roots which, unfortunately in this case, are programmed to go outwards. On their quest for an escape that does not exist they miss all the nutrients sitting inside the bulk of the pot. Going in circles around the pot does not result in air pruning of the roots as the pot keeps the growing medium from becoming drenched in air.
New root shoot routes
If the pot allowed the air to pass through, the roots would self prune as they come in contact with the surrounding air. It stops growing and sends a signal back to base to get the backup of more root shoots. As these roots grow through new patches of undiscovered nutrients, the plant is fed in a much more efficient way.
Energy saved from sending roots around in circles can be spent up top on making more leaves, which give the plant more light, which in turn provides more fuel to convert the nutrients being fed through the roots to building more plant matter.
Nutes for root shoots
Come flowering time, the fine roots are evenly spread throughout the nutrient rich growing medium.
The creation of many fine roots is an important factor. More fine roots have a greater surface area than a few fat roots. That’s why they say big fat fries are actually healthier than finely cut french fries. The reason is the greater surface areas of the many fine fries takes in more cooking fats. In our case the many fine roots take in more nutrients.
These many fine roots efficiently provide the plant with the nutrients it needs to build a strong fibrous framework to support heavy flowering buds in the form of the stem and branches. The extra air and less stagnant water allow healthy bacterias to thrive, which also help the roots take in more nutrients.
This is all great, but how can it help us humble cannabis caretakers? It just so happens that there are a few manufacturers that produce breathing aerated pots.
Smart Pots
Smart pots are the original fabric pots and have been on the market since 1984. They are used extensively by horticultural specialists throughout the world. The safe, non-toxic, durable fabric can be recycled up to ten times using your washing machine. It is reported that yields can increase up to 30% compared to regular pots of the same size. Smart Pots come in many sizes from 1 gallon to 100 gallons and a 10 pack of five gallon (20 litres) pots will cost you around $50. The larger pots come without handles, but when you fill your pot you turn over the sides, like turn ups on your pants which give you a firm hold when having to move pots around. Depending on your growing needs, they can also offer custom sized solutions.
Air-Pots
Air-Pots market themselves as a “root enhancement system”. Instead of a semi permeable fabric, it is made from recycled plastic and its many spikes each contain a small hole to allow air to enter the growing medium. They should last for years as long as you don’t bash them about. The current pots are now in their sixth generation. They are used by expert horticulturalists and nurseries throughout the world, including the prestigious Kew Gardens in London. They can be bought in sizes from 1 litre to 54 litres. A pack of 10 x 22 litre pots (5.8 gallons) will set you back around 100 bucks.
Which one to choose?
In essence, both solutions achieve the same thing. Smart Pots are relatively inexpensive compared to Air-Pots, but have a limited life span. Up front costs for Air-Pots are about double, but the pots will last longer. My advice would be to go for the cheaper Smart Pots and when you have worn them out, decide if the additional cost is worth your while, or you may find you need to select a different size.
It would be very interesting to run them under the same lights using clones to see if there is a noticeable difference in yields.
Which size is best?
When it comes to growing cannabis, you should select the largest pot that you can to fit in your garden. The larger the pot, the more nutrient rich growing medium you can use and the more space for the roots to form. More roots and more nutrients mean that the resulting plant will be stronger, bigger, and yield more. It may be that the pots are too big and the resulting plants are unmanageable. A reduction in size the following year could help you to .
Megalith1
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So we are on day 32 since I planted a seed .
No more sign of thrips (thank god)
And every thing good with temps and rh and so far I've added a few hours each day to get my lights to come on at 10am so only 4 more changes and I should be good
still need to defoliate lower leaves but havent got the confidence to do it
No more sign of thrips (thank god)
And every thing good with temps and rh and so far I've added a few hours each day to get my lights to come on at 10am so only 4 more changes and I should be good
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