My take on that is you're still better off with the 240w units because those larger led drivers drive up the cost. This is the reason you can buy two -240w units for less than you can buy one 480w unit (as an example). Two 240w meanwell drivers cost less than one 480w driver. Other than that, the boards are the same. Although 2400w for the whole room leaves you at 24w per ft sq. I think you would be better off around 3400-3500w total for a 10 x 10 room. You can always adjust down using the dimmers. You can't adjust "up" without buying more lights.
I will have confirmation tonight cause of the time diff but she is asking 400$ for a 600 watt light I think it’s a bit cheaper this way how much did u pay for the 240 watt boards
You got 4 240 watt for 644 $ if that is so it comes out to 67 cents a watt ? Correct
That would be cheaper then this one panel model per watt
You got 4 240 watt for 644 $ if that is so it comes out to 67 cents a watt ? Correct
That would be cheaper then this one panel model per watt
644/960 67 cents or is this to early for me lol
BTW 1.49w per $ is 1/1.49 = .67 per watt lol.
You guys are confusing the fuck outta me haha.
Get the 240w models. they are cheaper. this is what I have done and it means you can space them out alot better for even light distribution.
Also, if anything fails such as(especially) the driver then you will have alot less affected area until it can be fixed and if its out of warranty it will be cheaper to replace.
I got that part. The maths was fucking me up. its 2.32am here lol.Sorry for the confusion there ... What you said above is exactly the point I was trying to make.
Oh shot 2 :32 were you from
Ya I agree with you guys I allready sent her a message concerning this and will ask for the 240 watt models
Is there ones I should ask for like with model number and should I get diff light for veg and bloom like was previously mentioned ? Thanks
Ask for the 3000k with UV and IR for FlowerOh shot 2 :32 were you from
Ya I agree with you guys I allready sent her a message concerning this and will ask for the 240 watt models
Is there ones I should ask for like with model number and should I get diff light for veg and bloom like was previously mentioned ? Thanks
For veg, you don't really need 660nm or IR or UV. 3500k works well for both veg and flower and 4000k is considered more of veg only.
The UV + IR and even the 660nm red light are optional. Since There's a debate between users whether or not to buy that built into the board. It drives up the unit cost, and it's the UV, IR, or 660nm LEDs that people say burn out first. The argument is legitimate. My answer to that is the light panel are cheap enough to keep a cheap 3000k or 3500k 120w panel on the shelf as a replacement.
For veg, you don't really need 660nm or IR or UV. 3500k works well for both veg and flower and 4000k is considered more of veg only.
The UV + IR and even the 660nm red light are optional. Since There's a debate between users whether or not to buy that built into the board. It drives up the unit cost, and it's the UV, IR, or 660nm LEDs that people say burn out first. The argument is legitimate. My answer to that is the light panel are cheap enough to keep a cheap 3000k or 3500k 120w panel on the shelf as a replacement.
That would depend on how it's wired. In Series, the whole series goes out as the current passes through one led and directly into the next. I believe those panels use series to wire a string of diodes and then wired in parallel for each string. I'd have to see the wire schematic to be sure.
Just something of note that made me wonder.. I asked my vendor that sold me my boards if he would add cree chips. He says that the cree 660nm are 3w and not .5 like the rest resulting in them being under driven. Anyone know the specs of cree chips king brite is using?
The logic makes sense to me i guess... but I dont know electrical very well so it went over my head. If they in fact under driven does that result in the led throwing off a less than ideal spectrum?
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