Please help a novice in distress

[IsanFarmer]

I've just taken these photos with the flash on and the lights turned off.

 

[Trash_2002]

I've just taken these photos with the flash on and the lights turned off.

If you look closely you can see leaf edge serrations curling up, a sign to not increase light, they are praying and happy no need to imo.
But if you really want You can test it and slowly increase 5% every 2 days intensity until you reach 850ppfd, and gradually increase nutrients from 1.5 to ~1.8 when you reach 850ppfd..

Next feed go ~1.6 EC they are a little hungry. But flowering nicely!

 

[IsanFarmer]

If you look closely you can see leaf edge serrations curling up, a sign to not increase light, they are praying and happy no need to imo.
But if you really want You can test it and slowly increase 5% every 2 days intensity until you reach 850ppfd, and gradually increase nutrients from 1.5 to ~1.8 when you reach 850ppfd..

Next feed go ~1.6 EC they are a little hungry. But flowering nicely!

I might increase the light a bit but I've been down this road before and both times it burnt the plants. I'll definitely increase the EC of the food though. Could it be that some phenotypes require less light than normal?

If you look at these photos that were taken from lying on the tent floor you can see branches lower down that are part of the same stems of the tallest buds. Surely these won't produce any quality flowers and should be removed because they're draining the best bud sites of energy?

 

[Trash_2002]

I might increase the light a bit but I've been down this road before and both times it burnt the plants. I'll definitely increase the EC of the food though. Could it be that some phenotypes require less light than normal?

If you look at these photos that were taken from lying on the tent floor you can see branches lower down that are part of the same stems of the tallest buds. Surely these won't produce any quality flowers and should be removed because they're draining the best bud sites of energy?

Yep some cultivars are more light sensitive than others, each genetic variation evolved in a different place in the world, and crossed with each other, so phenotypes could vary in all aspects on what it can take, (cold/hot/low and high light intensity/dry or humid/higher or lower nutrients strength).

Yes those little first bud sites that Doesnt get light should be removed it will help buds get bigger in the main colas above, also the ones way down there in the base of the stem of the first photo too.

Cheers!

 

[IsanFarmer]

Yep some cultivars are more light sensitive than others, each genetic variation evolved in a different place in the world, and crossed with each other, so phenotypes could vary in all aspects on what it can take, (cold/hot/low and high light intensity/dry or humid/higher or lower nutrients strength).

Fascinating all of this and I'm really looking forward to a time when I am experienced enough to choose my own phenotypes and use them as mother plants.

Yes those little first bud sites that Doesnt get light should be removed it will help buds get bigger in the main colas above, also the ones way down there in the base of the stem of the first photo too.

Cheers!

That's what I thought but I'm reluctant to remove anything that looks capable of producing any weed because it seems a shame to get rid of it. Were you like that when you first started growing?

 

[Trash_2002]

Fascinating all of this and I'm really looking forward to a time when I am experienced enough to choose my own phenotypes and use them as mother plants.



That's what I thought but I'm reluctant to remove anything that looks capable of producing any weed because it seems a shame to get rid of it. Were you like that when you first started growing?

I think we all were like that at some point, i started my first brick weed seedlings with ~16 years old in my moms backyard lol.

Just use your better judgement as to what to remove, if its too larfy and too hiden from lights it doesn't hurt to get rid of it.

You should start to training your cloning skills next grow... i didn't told you to do that for this first grow cause it could maybe be too much for you to be on top of first time.

 

[IsanFarmer]

i think we all were like that at some point, i started my first brick weed seedlings with ~16 years old in my moms backyard lol.
just use your better judgement as to what to remove, if its too larfy and too hiden from lights it doesn't hurt to get rid of it.

Yeah I'm going to remove any of the lower bud sites not getting any light tomorrow morning and then the plant can transfer all its energy to the main colas.

 

[IsanFarmer]

It's day 79 and I'm coming up to the end of the fourth week of flower. Yesterday I fed them. I mixed half a dose of the Fox Farm trio in 12 litres of water with 6ml of CalMag. The EC was 1.4 but I wanted it to be 1.6 so I added about 5ml of each bottle of the trio and some more water to get it to 1.6. The water was adjusted to PH 6.4 and had a temperature of 22 degrees Celsius.

I decided not to give them any more light, instead I raised the light 2" so that it's 21' from the tallest cola and 27" from the shortest, with a PPFD of 435 and 610 respectively. These plants don't appear to need as much light as these strains normally would at this stage.

I'm blowing the air from the inline fan back into the same room so it's starting to smell a bit in there now. Temperatures are 76 to 81 Celsius during the light cycle and 71 to 74 during the dark. RH is 45 to 50 during the light cycle and 40 to 45 during the dark. Ideally I need to get the temperature down a bit more during late flower but I can't. The AC is on its lowest temperature with the fan on its highest setting and I can't get it any lower than that. Is this a problem? Any comments or advice are really appreciated.

 

[Trash_2002]

It's day 79 and I'm coming up to the end of the fourth week of flower. Yesterday I fed them. I mixed half a dose of the Fox Farm trio in 12 litres of water with 6ml of CalMag. The EC was 1.4 but I wanted it to be 1.6 so I added about 5ml of each bottle of the trio and some more water to get it to 1.6. The water was adjusted to PH 6.4 and had a temperature of 22 degrees Celsius.

I decided not to give them any more light, instead I raised the light 2" so that it's 21' from the tallest cola and 27" from the shortest, with a PPFD of 435 and 610 respectively. These plants don't appear to need as much light as these strains normally would at this stage.

I'm blowing the air from the inline fan back into the same room so it's starting to smell a bit in there now. Temperatures are 76 to 81 Celsius during the light cycle and 71 to 74 during the dark. RH is 45 to 50 during the light cycle and 40 to 45 during the dark. Ideally I need to get the temperature down a bit more during late flower but I can't. The AC is on its lowest temperature with the fan on its highest setting and I can't get it any lower than that. Is this a problem? Any comments or advice are really appreciated.

filling up fast and nicely, you gonna get some great buds there my friend :-)

The temperature it is what it is, no problem they gonna thrive, would be better to get it lower? yes, but they are going good.

You can try to push to ~750ppfd, slowly increase over the next week very little per day. When you reach 750ppfd up feed to EC ~1.7-1.8 for weeks 6-7 and 8. than drop back to EC 1.0 for the last week or two.

 

[IsanFarmer]

filling up fast and nicely, you gonna get some great buds there my friend :-)

Yes I can't wait!

The temperature it is what it is, no problem they gonna thrive, would be better to get it lower? yes, but they are going good.

Everything I have read on the temperature and RH side of things tells me that there are optimum ranges for this but if you are slightly above or below then your plants will adapt to their environment. And as you say - "it is what it is" and things are looking good even if the temperature is not perfect.

You can try to push to ~750ppfd, slowly increase over the next week very little per day. When you reach 750ppfd up feed to EC ~1.7-1.8 for weeks 6-7 and 8. than drop back to EC 1.0 for the last week or two.

Yeah I increased the light a little yesterday and I'll probably do it again today or tomorrow. I'll keep doing it in small increments to see how they respond. Surely I'll have to flush before I harvest as well?

 

[Bdubs]

Yes I can't wait!



Everything I have read on the temperature and RH side of things tells me that there are optimum ranges for this but if you are slightly above or below then your plants will adapt to their environment. And as you say - "it is what it is" and things are looking good even if the temperature is not perfect.



Yeah I increased the light a little yesterday and I'll probably do it again today or tomorrow. I'll keep doing it in small increments to see how they respond. Surely I'll have to flush before I harvest as well?

As long as the leaves don’t curl up and edges serrate you should be ok on light. They will acclimate to the light changes in small increments. Flushing is individual. I did not flush and it’s pretty smooth. It is more critical, IMO, to dry and cure properly than to flush.

 

[IsanFarmer]

The plant on the left has some completely yellow leaves. Is this a nitrogen deficiency? I've also noticed some yellow patches on the leaves of another plant. Is that light burn?

 

[Trash_2002]

The plant on the left has some completely yellow leaves. Is this a nitrogen deficiency? I've also noticed some yellow patches on the leaves of another plant. Is that light burn?

Yep it's nitrogen "deficiency" on the first two photos. After the 4th week they don't pull up much more N from the soil anymore , instead they pull from the older leaves stock.

The last photo I can't see well because of the white balance. Possible to take a more real color photo?

 

[IsanFarmer]

Yep it's nitrogen "deficiency" on the first two photos. After the 4th week they don't pull up much more N from the soil anymore , instead they pull from the older leaves stock.

So I should increase the EC of my future feeds?

The last photo I can't see well because of the white balance. Possible to take a more real color photo?

Sorry dude it's half six in the evening here in the Land of Smiles and the lights went out half an hour ago so I'll do this in the morning when I water them. Shall I continue with the molasses in between feeds? It seems to have worked so far?

 

[Bdubs]

The plant on the left has some completely yellow leaves. Is this a nitrogen deficiency? I've also noticed some yellow patches on the leaves of another plant. Is that light burn?

If your top leaves are yellowing curling or serrating edges it may be light burn or stress. If your yellowing is at the bottom it is probably that those leaves are receiving no light at all or very little. They can go if you decide to prune at any point.

 

[Trash_2002]

So I should increase the EC of my future feeds?



Sorry dude it's half six in the evening here in the Land of Smiles and the lights went out half an hour ago so I'll do this in the morning when I water them. Shall I continue with the molasses in between feeds? It seems to have worked so far?

Yep go with molasses between feeds, raising EC to 1.7 is ok, but in reality to solve the N problem next time give one or two weeks more veg nutrients before switching to full flower nutrients after the flip to 12/12.
For your line of nutrients this seems to be needed. In fact many lines of nutrients require you to use veg nutrients first ~two weeks of flower to prevent N def mid flower.

 

[Bdubs]

If your top leaves are yellowing curling or serrating edges it may be light burn or stress. If your yellowing is at the bottom it is probably that those leaves are receiving no light at all or very little. They can go if you decide to prune at any point.

I am a noobie too. So, take it with a grain of salt. I never experienced yellowing leaves in flower on my last run. Even leaves that were getting no light. Although, I am sure I was running a bit more nitrogen in my mix as my leaves were darker green throughout flowering. Any time that I have had yellowing leaves, it was eary signs I wasn’t giving it what she wanted or too much of something. Trash 2002 is most likely right that it’s nitrogen deficiency. Although in flower you don’t need as much, running higher Ph will have the plant absorbing less of it, as Ph has an effect on what N-P-K she absorbs, there is a range. So if you are running a higher Ph and less nitrogen in the feed water she definitely has a hard time getting the minimal N she wants. Which the color of the rest of the plants is light green, saying you are not getting the N. The lighter the leaves get, the less she performs photosynthesis.

 

[j1sonbrother]

So I should increase the EC of my future feeds?



Sorry dude it's half six in the evening here in the Land of Smiles and the lights went out half an hour ago so I'll do this in the morning when I water them. Shall I continue with the molasses in between feeds? It seems to have worked so far?

what is ur Nuts ?Dude
u do feed /feed /water?
it's hard to tell u gonna need hit more nuts in future , which depends on VPD/C02/strains,etc.
IMO,Molasses actually has Mg and K in it along with a bunch of micros, and it won't caused issues if u still continue with molassese in between feeds.
u do need tweak right npkratios at this moments.

 

[IsanFarmer]

Yep go with molasses between feeds, raising EC to 1.7 is ok, but in reality to solve the N problem next time give one or two weeks more veg nutrients before switching to full flower nutrients after the flip to 12/12.
For your line of nutrients this seems to be needed. In fact many lines of nutrients require you to use veg nutrients first ~two weeks of flower to prevent N def mid flower.

Are there any nutrients you recommend? I can get hold of Dutchpro nutrients over here and I'm thinking of using them for my next grow?

I am a noobie too. So, take it with a grain of salt. I never experienced yellowing leaves in flower on my last run. Even leaves that were getting no light. Although, I am sure I was running a bit more nitrogen in my mix as my leaves were darker green throughout flowering. Any time that I have had yellowing leaves, it was eary signs I wasn’t giving it what she wanted or too much of something. Trash 2002 is most likely right that it’s nitrogen deficiency. Although in flower you don’t need as much, running higher Ph will have the plant absorbing less of it, as Ph has an effect on what N-P-K she absorbs, there is a range. So if you are running a higher Ph and less nitrogen in the feed water she definitely has a hard time getting the minimal N she wants. Which the color of the rest of the plants is light green, saying you are not getting the N. The lighter the leaves get, the less she performs photosynthesis.

Thanks for that but can I ask you something? Why is it you quote yourself and reply to your own quotes? Are you mental?

what is ur Nuts ?Dude
u do feed /feed /water?
it's hard to tell u gonna need hit more nuts in future , which depends on VPD/C02/strains,etc.
IMO,Molasses actually has Mg and K in it along with a bunch of micros, and it won't caused issues if u still continue with molassese in between feeds.
u do need tweak right npkratios at this moments.

I'm using the Fox Farm trio and CalMag. In between feeds I use molasses. I feed and then water alternately.

 

[Trash_2002]

Are there any nutrients you recommend? I can get hold of Dutchpro nutrients over here and I'm thinking of using them for my next grow?



Thanks for that but can I ask you something? Why is it you quote yourself and reply to your own quotes? Are you mental?



I'm using the Fox Farm trio and CalMag. In between feeds I use molasses. I feed and then water alternately.

I mean fox farm trio and any nutrients for that matter are good enough tho, just adjust the schedule for the plants need for next grow and you will be golden.

Extend veg nutrients for first one or two weeks 12/12 ;-) than go full bloom nutrients.
This way they have more time to stock N on leaves and will take more time to use the leaves stock mid-late flower.