Tommy626
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You’ve gotta get those leaves out of the dirt before you get a fungus issue. If it’s touching the medium cut it off
Tommy626
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CFC7143
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What is leaf spot? And how can I fix it? Are you saying it's caused by moisture on the leafs?
CFC7143
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Kk thanks
CFC7143
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How can I make it dry faster? I have two fans on them you think maybe I should just lower the humidity level?
Tommy626
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If your humidity is anywhere near 50% without that humidifier turn that thing off. Plants can not use the water in the dirt if the humidity is to high so your dirt will stay wet for longer periods of time, inviting a perfect incubation environment for mold and fungus. Plants uptake water and nutrients from the soil and release the moisture in the air. If he vpd is too high the plants “pores” will close hindering their ability to release moisture. A humidifier is really for growers who live in arid places or during winter when humidity is below 30% in my opinion. I’m pretty sure my opinion is right but everyone has one. I know you see it on the internet ( ppl using humidifiers) but their situation is different and they might need one! Do you have a hygrometer? My advice to you is 1) get those leaves out of the dirt! 2) stop watering until the soil is dry to the touch on top and a inch or so down 3) turn that humidifier off and see where your RH is at without it. And you plants will be happy. Besides that little blemish they look good
Tommy626
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2 fans is good. Put the bigger of the two on the pot level instead of tied up. Keep the air moving by the soil too!
CFC7143
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Kk I'll turn the humidifier off and see what the natrual humidity is in the tent and I clips off the two or three leaves that were touching the soil
Qfs
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Blue lab sells an excellent PH meter it’s expensive!!! But you get what you pay for with meters.
CFC7143
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You were right after turning off the humidifier last night the humidity stays at about 35% by itself so that should be fine right? 35% and some pics haha just cuz
mancorn
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All TDS meters actually use EC (Electrical Conductivity) for the measurement and then do a conversion to display TDS in PPM (parts per million). So you first need to find out what formula your TDS meter is using for this conversion. If you're in the States your meter is probably using the 500 scale (also called Hanna). But you need to check as there are different scales and different nutrient manufactures use different scales, when telling you how much of their nutrient you should be using. After you know your meter conversion then you can start checking your soil runoff to determine if you're over/under feeding. (This is assuming you're not using organic fertilizers which will not read on your meter.)
To check your soil, you can either do a slurry test or use the "pour through method". (The later being a standard nursery technique to test nutrient levels. Just Google and you'll find easy instructions.) If you're using one of the major nutrient bottles, they'll provide you with a feed chart with their recommendations. (If they're providing PPM number make sure they're using the same EC to PPM scale as your meter!) Now you can test your nutrient solutions before watering, and find your EC/PPM from your runoff to really understand if you're over or under feeding. If you water with a 800 PPM solution, but have a 1000 PPM runoff, then you have too much nutrient in and vice versa if you do a pour through test and only getting 400 PPM then you might be under feeding. (I say might because if you're using a soil like Fox Farm it comes with organic nutrients added, which as I mentioned won't be included in your reading. In which case you'll want to take those organic nutes into consideration and want to have a lower EC/PPM, especially if your soil is new.)
Here is a general chart to show where you'll want your EC/PPM to be during your grow.
CFC7143
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Tommy626
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Good stuff about your environment! Now about pulling those plants down like that. Your likely ripping all the roots at the base of the plant causing Major stress and damage to your plant which will make it weak and susceptible to disease. ALWAYS put another support at the base on top the dirt pulling in the opposite direction. I’ll include a photo of what I mean. Every thing else looks
Tommy626
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Photo in a few hours but you can look up Bill Ward on YouTube and see what I mean in the LST video of gorilla glue #4Good stuff about your environment! Now about pulling those plants down like that. Your likely ripping all the roots at the base of the plant causing Major stress and damage to your plant which will make it weak and susceptible to disease. ALWAYS put another support at the base on top the dirt pulling in the opposite direction. I’ll include a photo of what I mean. Every thing else looks
CFC7143
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New light got here today
Tommy626
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Be careful those ladies are still young and in the vegetative stage they do not need as much light as they would if they were in flower
Tommy626
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If I were you I would go by the manufacturers specifications because to me it looks like you have way too much light on those girls I could be wrong though
CFC7143
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The two lights on the side are only 65 w and one is 4000k and the other is 3000k and the blurple one pulls 250w they aren't super extream lights but Inna day or two I might raise them
growsince79
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Nothing matches the sun. As long as all other needs are met, it's hard to OD on light. Meeting the other needs is what may be impossible if the light is "too much". Listen to the plants.
Tommy626
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Maybe I should’ve said too much heat, This is correct, nothing is stronger than the sun but we can’t put the sun in our grow tents 12 inches above our plants that’s all I was saying
Latest posts
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First post! 1600w DTW winter grow- American_Agriculturist posted
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Mixed seeds- budsofgeorgia posted
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WStarting my first autoflower run
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