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Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

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Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

UCHQ 528 Replies 90,358 Views
Page 6 of 27 · Replies 101–120 of 529
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#101
Bubba Kush, I have read nearly every post about DWC. From what I can gather, it doesn't really matter. I am on my first run and am not using it, so take it for what it's worth.
 
#102
Bud Head said:
Bubba Kush, I have read nearly every post about DWC. From what I can gather, it doesn't really matter. I am on my first run and am not using it, so take it for what it's worth.
Click to expand...

Your not using what? The air stones? You have to inorder to get alot of oxygen to the plants.
 
#104
I had a question a few pages back and have some follow ups. I have been running super skunk for a couple weeks in veg using calmag, canna, boost, and roots excell. I always cal mag up to 200 to start everything off. I have the ppm at 480 and my PH between 5.5 and 5.9. My PH keeps dropping and I can't get it to maintain a 5.8 or higher. If it weren't for drains and fillups it would drop well below 5.0. There is NO sign of nute burn and the plants look healthy, but no big growth like I am used to. I initially thought I was running my PPM's too high at 400 so i lowered it down to 320. There was no effect on the PH(kept on dropping) and the plants showed no drastic differences. I have slowly been pushing my PPM up to 480 and have had the same problem no matter what my PPM's are at. My PH has been falling at the same rate throughout this whole thing. Any suggestions?
 
#105
You either have your nutrient solution to strong, or you have a bunch of dead organic matter (bio slime) possible coating the walls and even inside the pvc tubes. Need to clean, drain and flush/steralize the system and refill with proper nutrient levels.
 
#106
Is there any reason you cant build/run your uc in a staggered pattern ? Would the flow be uneven or unbalanced in that configuration?

x-x-x-x-x
-x-x-x-x-
x-x-x-x-x
-x-x-x-x-
 
#107
I'm no expert on this system, but if your pump is sized correctly I don't see why it would matter. Why would U want to?
 
#108
chrometrichs said:
Is there any reason you cant build/run your uc in a staggered pattern ? Would the flow be uneven or unbalanced in that configuration?

x-x-x-x-x
-x-x-x-x-
x-x-x-x-x
-x-x-x-x-
Click to expand...


yes UC has pix of staggered site setups on the website
 
#109
biomaster... any suggestions as to what I should clean and sterilize with?
 
#110
Here ya go skankymonkey23
 
#111
look at benderdundat he ran the staggered setup. and to get beyer light distribution with less lights for vertical and to spread them out better for hirizontal. its all about preference
 
#112
a staggarred system wouldnt matter because water is a self leveller and you are pulling water from the bottom of one end and putting it on the top of the other end
 
#113
So my grow is going good just don't understand what's happening? My ppm are at 800 and Ph 5.5 for 10 days, went through 40gal of top up, now PPM is dropping and Ph moving up. Just passed week 6 should I up the food some more or hold steady?
 
#114
if the ph is coming up fast - more then a tenth per day up your ppm a little - maybe try 850
 
#115
i cleaned and scrubbed everything down with bio green clean before i put my ladies inside. The problem was occurring in my 8 gallon veg buckets and is happening in my 13 gallons as well. EVERYTHING has been clean since day 1. At this point I can't take my UC apart because I have plants in it. any idea of what I can run through the system with plants in it? Zone?
 
#116
If your system is clean and not being over run by biological life feeding on hidden organic matter which will cause the PH drop you speak of....then it has to be your nutrient solution is to strong. Those are the only 2 things I know of or have ever seen that would cause the PH drop you speak of........you can run Zone as a sterilizer or HF or H202.....several options that all work well....good luck! I am sure you will get it dialed soon.....just be patient and go slow.
 
#117
Do plants take longer in the UC

I have read in a number of threads that it can take longer for the plants to mature? Is that true or what. So far I'm thinking with my plants it is not true and in fact it is the opposite? What's the call on this? Same amount of time, earlier or longer?

:sign0065:
 
#118
woodsmaneh said:
I have read in a number of threads that it can take longer for the plants to mature? Is that true or what. So far I'm thinking with my plants it is not true and in fact it is the opposite? What's the call on this? Same amount of time, earlier or longer?

:sign0065:
Click to expand...


I only ran the UC once - but my experience was that YES they do - I took the wifi at 77 days instead of 70

Daniel confirmed it for me as well when I spoke to him about that.
 
#119
skankymonkey23 said:
I had a question a few pages back and have some follow ups. I have been running super skunk for a couple weeks in veg using calmag, canna, boost, and roots excell. I always cal mag up to 200 to start everything off. I have the ppm at 480 and my PH between 5.5 and 5.9. My PH keeps dropping and I can't get it to maintain a 5.8 or higher. If it weren't for drains and fillups it would drop well below 5.0. There is NO sign of nute burn and the plants look healthy, but no big growth like I am used to. I initially thought I was running my PPM's too high at 400 so i lowered it down to 320. There was no effect on the PH(kept on dropping) and the plants showed no drastic differences. I have slowly been pushing my PPM up to 480 and have had the same problem no matter what my PPM's are at. My PH has been falling at the same rate throughout this whole thing. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Consider using a lower dosage of Cal Mag....high quality nutes like Canna, H&G, DM formulate their nutrients to be complete. They are not making a nute assuming u will need CM to make work, try 1-2 mils per gallon at most.
Once you've done this it's likely you'll be able to bring up your ppm's and see the plants respond well.

Remember, the plants will/can only absorb a limited amount of mineral salts relative to water uptake so it is up to you as the grower to make sure these mineral ratios are correct. This is why using a high quality fert and following the feeding schedule is so helpful.
 
#120
woodsmaneh said:
I have read in a number of threads that it can take longer for the plants to mature? Is that true or what. So far I'm thinking with my plants it is not true and in fact it is the opposite? What's the call on this? Same amount of time, earlier or longer?

:sign0065:
Click to expand...

Time frames will be dictated by the ratios of minerals relative to the particular phase (grow or bloom) your plants are in. In some cases, because water soluble N is so readily available in water culture, the bloom cycle of the plant can be inhibited/ slowed a bit lending to a longer blooming time frame. This available N can also lend toward plants staying greener and having a high leaf to calyx ratio as well.

This has proven true enough that we recommend the liberal use of 0-X-X bloom enhancers during flowering to aid in maturation by reducing the ratio of N to P&K. For a more detailed explanation contact CC.

If you are experiencing a suitable blooming time frame this is a good indication that the nute formulation you've chosen is well suited for your app.
 
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