Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

[Bubba kush]

No co2.

So do not run co2 with the under current?

 

[skankymonkey23]

Here is a pictures. Does anyone know what is going on here?

I was about to flush and my PH started to go up. it dropped down to 5.5 and then went back up to 5.8 while my PPM stayed at 550. Should I still flush? especially considering the pictures?

 

[TheBioMaster]

Anyone hear of this product called "EZ Clone Clear Rez"? Was wondering if it could be used in place of like Drip Clean for example as this stuff is way cheaper I think?



Active ingredient: Hypochlorous Acid

 

[phup]

UCHQ I am quite surprised at some of the "general recommendations" on your chart. Albeit I am new to DWC, so a perpetually dropping ph is not something I'm familiar with, ( I would have thought the opposite, start out with around 5.2 and increase to 5.7) BUT a good growing environment is. I agree with the following:

1. High temps for rooted cuttings, then decreasing day time temps throughout their lifetime.
2. Ramp the food up then ramp it down. Obvious enough.
3. Decrease the water temp near the end to aid in maturation/resin production.

But could you please explain the following:

1. 1500 ppm of CO2 to start and then a dramatic decrease?
- If you started with 1500 in soil, the plants would stress hard. Why decrease the co2 levels in 4-6wk when they are putting on weight? In soil a good rule of thumb is match co2 ppm with nute ppm's

2. Week 6-9, a day RH below 40%? Stomata closure occurs below 40%
3. Night temps below 70 ? And then below 60 in week 5 on!? Do that in soil and plants will visibly stress and significantly reduce their yields.
4. Night time RH is akin to the desert at 20% in the last 3 weeks.

Look forward to hearing your response.

 

[Bud Head]

Bubba, I am not running CO2 this roll. I will run it next time, around and will probably switch to House And Garden.

 

[beachbum616]

thinking about getting a UC system, but i'm slightly apprehensive because it doesnt all seem quite ironed out yet. a lot of guess work seems to be involved.. seen a few journals that dont end too well.

what is the easiset most efficient and cost effective feeding setup? what are surefire ways to prevent root rot and promote root health short of mixing up some crazy compost tea.. seems like a bit much.

im considering starting with the 4xl 13 to get aquinted with the system and then expand to a 16 bucket unit once i have it dialed in.

 

[UCHQ]

UCHQ I am quite surprised at some of the "general recommendations" on your chart. Albeit I am new to DWC, so a perpetually dropping ph is not something I'm familiar with, ( I would have thought the opposite, start out with around 5.2 and increase to 5.7) BUT a good growing environment is. I agree with the following:

1. High temps for rooted cuttings, then decreasing day time temps throughout their lifetime.
2. Ramp the food up then ramp it down. Obvious enough.
3. Decrease the water temp near the end to aid in maturation/resin production.

But could you please explain the following:

1. 1500 ppm of CO2 to start and then a dramatic decrease?
- If you started with 1500 in soil, the plants would stress hard. Why decrease the co2 levels in 4-6wk when they are putting on weight? In soil a good rule of thumb is match co2 ppm with nute ppm's

2. Week 6-9, a day RH below 40%? Stomata closure occurs below 40%
3. Night temps below 70 ? And then below 60 in week 5 on!? Do that in soil and plants will visibly stress and significantly reduce their yields.
4. Night time RH is akin to the desert at 20% in the last 3 weeks.

Look forward to hearing your response.

Emphasis on "general" recommendations.

pH......Nitrogen is more available at higher pH (6+) and Phos becomes more available at pH under 6. So as the plants shift from leaf growth to flower it's a natural fit to drop the pH as well. Normal pH range for water culture ranges anywhere from 5.5 - 6.5 for best results.

CO2 Concentration....start ur ppm's lower if you feel ur plants need to ease into it. Plants begin to metabolize very quickly in water culture, but even in soil u shouldn't see "stress" from high CO2 levels. But again, react to ur plants and ur less likely to go wrong.

As for CO2 levels in late bloom.....plants store CO2 in leaf tissue, if CO2 ppm's are elevated then plants create more leaf to store the carbon. Additionally chloraphyll production is stimulated at higher ppm's of CO2.

For most growers having meds with a high leaf to calyx ratio is less than ideal, let alone the excess chloraphyll detracting from the inherent qualities of the fruits of their labor. No doubt heavy CO2 to harvest may increase overall weight but at the cost of quality from our experience. But, do what works for u.

Humidity....some of the most productive lands on earth are irrigated deserts. The lower humidity lends to higher transpiration rates that spur the plants metabolism. As long as plants are kept well hydrated this lower humidity is far from negative. The lower humidity also prompts the formation of more essential oils as the plant produces them in an attempt to slow transpiration in anticipation of drought....which in a well tended garden never comes.

Night temps....the contrast of day to night temps is key in promoting the plants natural processes, as this is very similar to what happens in nature...which is where all plants evolved. If your plants are expressing stressed reactions to conditions like this you may consider reexamining your plant health as it seems ur plants are over sensitive to small shifts that shouldn't cause problems to healthy plants.

Night RH.......like mentioned in the previous response on RH, well hydrated plants react favorably in these low RH conditions. Besides the low RH helps to keep molds, mildews and bud rots at bay late in flowering when buds are at their largest and most vulnerable.

Let me close by stating you should take our recommendations if you'd like....or leave them. They are however not only time tested, but logical if you're familiar with the habits and processes of annual and perennial herbaceous herbs and vegetables. Assuming what ur doing is working well for you, keep up the good work.

 

[UCHQ]

thinking about getting a UC system, but i'm slightly apprehensive because it doesnt all seem quite ironed out yet. a lot of guess work seems to be involved.. seen a few journals that dont end too well.

what is the easiset most efficient and cost effective feeding setup? what are surefire ways to prevent root rot and promote root health short of mixing up some crazy compost tea.. seems like a bit much.

im considering starting with the 4xl 13 to get aquinted with the system and then expand to a 16 bucket unit once i have it dialed in.

Sounds like coco could be a good route for you, pretty fail safe and an excellent substrate. If you do go for a UC a 4 site is a good place to start.

 

[beachbum616]

Sounds like coco could be a good route for you, pretty fail safe and an excellent substrate. If you do go for a UC a 4 site is a good place to start.

thanks for the consideration.. but i have been a grower for a few years in other media's.. mostly hydromix and tried coco too.. i was considering a ebb and flow type system until i came across the UC.

is it basically your recommendation that if one doesnt want to brew a compost tea and other advanced measures then dont use the UC system? that there is no real simple, proven methods that are sure firse ways to work?

 

[Texas Kid]

No, his recommendation is to start with a 4 site and go from there, I see no mention of complex teas or advanced measures at all in his responce.

The UC works great and is user friendly, I have not had a bad run yet nor have I had any of the issues that seems to be the most commonly asked about as of late.

No teas, no advanced methods, just pay attention to the plants

Tex

 

[UCHQ]

thanks for the consideration.. but i have been a grower for a few years in other media's.. mostly hydromix and tried coco too.. i was considering a ebb and flow type system until i came across the UC.

is it basically your recommendation that if one doesnt want to brew a compost tea and other advanced measures then dont use the UC system? that there is no real simple, proven methods that are sure firse ways to work?

Good to hear uv got some experience in other grow mediums to draw from.....as long as u don't over complicate things and pay attention to ur plants (as TK mentioned) u'll likely do well.

Only thing left to do now is give it a try and see how u like it.

 

[beachbum616]

No, his recommendation is to start with a 4 site and go from there, I see no mention of complex teas or advanced measures at all in his responce.

No teas, no advanced methods, just pay attention to the plants

Tex

right, not mentioned here but has been mentioned before by many.. you don't have to look very far on this forum to see that everyone has a different "method." reviewing older posts many people were swearing by the DM + zone then at some point it turned to were people are recomending in a more unified manner that harvesting beneficial bacteria is the way to go..

i totally understand that there are many ways to skin a cat, and people have their preferences.. im just looking for an effective way.

my reasons are mostly economic.. i will be going into considerable debt purchasing the system and other equipment and expenses. i obviously need a product that will allow me to repay this debt in a timely manner.. i just dont wanna be pulling my hair out 6 months down the road, if you know what i mean.

im thankful for any insightful posts..

 

[desertsquirrel]

H&G, Cal-mag, epsom, and H2O2 is a cheap and reliable profile.

 

[deacon1503]

i will be going into considerable debt purchasing the system and other equipment and expenses. i obviously need a prorduct that will allow me to repay this debt in a timely manner.

im thankful for any insightful posts..

This is always a tough situation. Maybe do ur room complete sans the UC and specific support equipment, and smart pot it out! U know ull have a harvest for sure then hopefully ur close to even again. Round 2 add the UC in. It will give u a dial-in run for the room atmospherically as well before you have to deal with the added bonus of water culture!

Good luck!

 

[Texas Kid]

I wouldn't go into debt to buy any system of any kind...if your current grow can't finance your expansion you need to back up and punt IMO

Never finance your toys, rarely works out...

Tex

 

[phup]

Thanks for the thorough reply UCHQ, much of what you write makes sense - although I still question the very low RH, unless the UC enables the plant to transpire rapidly enough to allow for 20% RH without stomata closure. Either way I have another question:

I am undergoing a test run of a 8xxl system prior to doing a full conversion at our space. The plants are 12" tall, quite healthy and well rooted in 4" rockwool. The water level is 1.5" above the bottom of the net pot, as is the rockwool cube. This has meant I have not had to hand water the rockwool cube thanks to capillary action. However, it has been 5 days in the UC and I only see the slightest sign of roots on one of the net pots. Should I drop the water level down below the net pot to encourage the roots to search for water? What is the optimal water level to encourage root growth?

Cheers,

Phup

 

[UCHQ]

BB616....listen to TK and Deac and don't put yourself out financially to get a UC before u have your room dialed in. No need to risk so much, especially with a system notorious for having a steep learning curve. when ur ready for it in the future, the UC will be waiting and ready to rock.

phup....stomata on a well hydrated, turgid leaf tissue will remain functional at very low RH. the stomata is far more likely to become dysfunctional if the plant is drought stressed while subjected to low RH, which many hand watered soil garden plants are late in bloom. Water culture's enhanced hydration of the plant aides in keeping gases exchanging through the leaf surface.

Your RW may be staying to moist which can inhibit root development. Try dropping the solution level a bit and consider a daily top water to keep the cubes hydrated while waiting for roots into the solution.

 

[Bud Head]

UCHQ, Starting week 7 soon, and have read that some advise dropping water level. What do you recommend? Thanks for the help.

 

[UCHQ]

Drop it to about 3" below the bottom of the net pot.

 

[Bud Head]

When do I drop, and why? Thanks