Post your Organic Soil Mix

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caveman4.20

caveman4.20

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Cool big families are damn near extinct
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caveman4.20

caveman4.20

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Hers a before with tiny bit of activity I assume it will be covered in about two days ill post the after.....
 
S

sneakyg

25
3
Blazeoneup PK soil recipe
1 x Bag of Ocean Forest
1 x Bag of Canna Coco
1 X Bag of Happy Frog
1/2 Bag Chunky Perlite
30# Earth worm castings
6 cup pulverized dolomite lime 2-1 Cal/mag ratio
6 cups Bone Meal
3 cups Blood Meal
3 Cups Azomite
3 cups Greensand
3 cups Kelp Meal

I also employ bennie root , foliar , and nute packs into my ACT tea. every other week. besides that straight aerated water and the dirt does the work
 
Dunge

Dunge

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Organic soil formulation is one of my favorite subjects.

I offer here a formulation and reasoning in the knowledge that you, my fellow thcfarmer, may benefit from a blend that has been serving me well for over two years, and some may care to offer comments on how I might tune this blend.

I grow four foot topped and pruned shrubs in three gallon pots and bags.
I water every four days with alfalfa tea made by a 24 hour bubble of alfalfa powder and kelp meal, with small additions of fish fertilizer and molasses and a final addition of worm water from my plastic stacking worm bin.

The Soil

6 cubic feet (45 gallons or ten buckets) of locally mined garden peat
3 cubic foot bag of “Down to Earth” compost
3 pound bag of bone meal
3 pound bag of blood meal
5 pound bag of high P bat guano
2 cubic foot perlite
1 cubic foot earth worm castings

My microbial environment is established by the combined ecology from native soils, compost, and EWC; which is then nourished by a microbe rich alfalfa tea.

Peat: If you don’t live near an Alaskan peat bog that will dump a load into the bed of your pickup, I suspect that any peat may do as well. They blend it with the local dirt, which is a wind blown glacial silt.

Compost: I like “Down to Earth” but home made or other manufacturers probably work just as well.

EWC: I have been making my own for the past year.

I start from cuttings which grow to flower fade with no deficiencies that I can see.

A careful reader might see that my quantities are predicted by the retail bag sizes offered.
I lay out a tarp and make a layer cake out of the components.
They are shoveled about until perlite looks evenly distributed.
I don’t know about this “letting it cook” concept.
The only cooking my soil does is incidental to my needs.

This is simply a compilation made from my readings here at the farm.
Letting the plants negotiate their nutrient uptake with the soil life is great if it works.
It works for me.
Give it a try.
 
caveman4.20

caveman4.20

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If its not broke don't fix it sounds like it works for ya. The cook is just allowing the amendments to decompose further as a precaution if its too strong of mix it might burn... Just my two cents
 
S

slap14

403
143
Organic soil formulation is one of my favorite subjects.

I offer here a formulation and reasoning in the knowledge that you, my fellow thcfarmer, may benefit from a blend that has been serving me well for over two years, and some may care to offer comments on how I might tune this blend.

I grow four foot topped and pruned shrubs in three gallon pots and bags.
I water every four days with alfalfa tea made by a 24 hour bubble of alfalfa powder and kelp meal, with small additions of fish fertilizer and molasses and a final addition of worm water from my plastic stacking worm bin.

The Soil

6 cubic feet (45 gallons or ten buckets) of locally mined garden peat
3 cubic foot bag of “Down to Earth” compost
3 pound bag of bone meal
3 pound bag of blood meal
5 pound bag of high P bat guano
2 cubic foot perlite
1 cubic foot earth worm castings

My microbial environment is established by the combined ecology from native soils, compost, and EWC; which is then nourished by a microbe rich alfalfa tea.

Peat: If you don’t live near an Alaskan peat bog that will dump a load into the bed of your pickup, I suspect that any peat may do as well. They blend it with the local dirt, which is a wind blown glacial silt.

Compost: I like “Down to Earth” but home made or other manufacturers probably work just as well.

EWC: I have been making my own for the past year.

I start from cuttings which grow to flower fade with no deficiencies that I can see.

A careful reader might see that my quantities are predicted by the retail bag sizes offered.
I lay out a tarp and make a layer cake out of the components.
They are shoveled about until perlite looks evenly distributed.
I don’t know about this “letting it cook” concept.
The only cooking my soil does is incidental to my needs.

This is simply a compilation made from my readings here at the farm.
Letting the plants negotiate their nutrient uptake with the soil life is great if it works.
It works for me.
Give it a try.


Would like to see some of your tea recipes Dunge.;) I always like trying new ones

Slap
 
7

7thson

Guest
I'm omitting the guano on my next run,of course unless I'm in a bind, but there is alternatives.

Like the kiss nutrient pack I'm gonna use has none in it.

This will be the first time I made my soil from SCRATCH,no bagged high price soil anymore(hopefully)I always use ffof or roots or some local nursery blend.(added a lot of goodies to this)You really don't know how much their adding in these soil mixes so it's really a shot in the dark adding organic nute's to these soil mixes when you think about it.

Anxious to try this and see what it does for the plants.

I have been pretty happy with the results to date,but I'm always looking for the upper hand.Also a little burn here and there from the guano's.
I have never used the exact same recipe twice in a row.I got a real good feeling about this new mix!
 
caveman4.20

caveman4.20

5,969
313
So I assume you have this in a pretty high humidity location?Or at least 50, or greater?
That's a safe assumption rh is at twenty or so but I shut the closet and through a spritz once in morning once at night then wait a day or two mix and repeat ...
 
Dunge

Dunge

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263
Would like to see some of your tea recipes Dunge.;) I always like trying new ones

Slap
OK Slap
You asked for it.


Disclaimer: I have only been brewing teas for one year, so what I document here is only what is working for me at this watering.
As a reminder, I grow in super soil (three gallon) and do not add any additional feed other than what comes from the alfalfa tea.
If I wish to make any additions, they are made via the tea. Case in point is the addition of Gnatrol (Bti) just before watering for gnat fighting.

The plan: Day three since watering, start about a gallon of alfalfa tea to use in a four gallon watering tomorrow.

Add about two fist fulls, or two small beakers, of ground alfalfa to small bucket.
DSCN3626
And a small grab of kelp.
DSCN3627
Add water to about a gallon.
DSCN3628
Bubble stone goes in.
DSCN3629
After about seven hours.
DSCN3630
How it looks in the morning. (about 22 hours)
Here is where I add a dribble of fish fertilizer to kill the foam. It just takes a bit and too much stinks of fish. I also add about a tablespoon, or one dollop, of molasses. Grandmas is great, but I am just using the bottle. My molasses is thick bear bait, purchased for cheep in a gallon jug. It is stabilized with propionic acid, which at these concentrations does not appear to harm the biota.
DSCN3631
After additions and a good stir.
DSCN3632
Collect run off from worms and add to tea.
DSCN3633
Run tea through a screen so it doesn’t clog my watering wand.
DSCN3634
Wet solids go to the worms.
DSCN3635
After watering, don’t forget to reset the watering tell-tail.
DSCN3636
Microbial populations were inspected at 200X.
Bacteria (small black dots) are abundant.
Some flagellated movement, but not predominate.
Abundant yeast. Too much sugar for too long will allow yeast to bloom and dominate the tea. Don’t know what to think of this, but I try to avoid yeast blooms.
The Worm run-off is high in bacteria and some very fast swimmers.
The finished tea smell is mild earthy with a hint of barn yard (in a good way).

None of this is set in stone. I have added too much fish fertilizer and had it stink of fish.
Have been through a number of inoculants including Capulator’s and Alaskan Humus etc., but there seems to be a strong enough resident population in the alfalfa to seed the microbial population, so I skip additions for now. (Other than that Bti)

For the most part this tea simply fits easily into my garden tasks, and I couldn’t be happier with the vitality of the garden (now that I have a gnat bloom under control).

So let me know how and why you think of tea differently than I, and we shall see what improvements might be made.
 
squiggly

squiggly

3,277
263
but there seems to be a strong enough resident population in the alfalfa to seed the microbial population, so I skip additions for now..

It's more likely you're just growing whatever happens to fall out of the air into the bucket--or what is already sitting in the bucket before you add water (its not exactly clean now is it?).
 
S

slap14

403
143
OK Slap
You asked for it.


Disclaimer: I have only been brewing teas for one year, so what I document here is only what is working for me at this watering.
As a reminder, I grow in super soil (three gallon) and do not add any additional feed other than what comes from the alfalfa tea.
If I wish to make any additions, they are made via the tea. Case in point is the addition of Gnatrol (Bti) just before watering for gnat fighting.

The plan: Day three since watering, start about a gallon of alfalfa tea to use in a four gallon watering tomorrow.

Add about two fist fulls, or two small beakers, of ground alfalfa to small bucket.
View attachment 298642
And a small grab of kelp.
View attachment 298643
Add water to about a gallon.
View attachment 298644
Bubble stone goes in.
View attachment 298645
After about seven hours.
View attachment 298646
How it looks in the morning. (about 22 hours)
Here is where I add a dribble of fish fertilizer to kill the foam. It just takes a bit and too much stinks of fish. I also add about a tablespoon, or one dollop, of molasses. Grandmas is great, but I am just using the bottle. My molasses is thick bear bait, purchased for cheep in a gallon jug. It is stabilized with propionic acid, which at these concentrations does not appear to harm the biota.
View attachment 298647
After additions and a good stir.
View attachment 298648
Collect run off from worms and add to tea.
View attachment 298649
Run tea through a screen so it doesn’t clog my watering wand.
View attachment 298650
Wet solids go to the worms.
View attachment 298653
After watering, don’t forget to reset the watering tell-tail.
View attachment 298655
Microbial populations were inspected at 200X.
Bacteria (small black dots) are abundant.
Some flagellated movement, but not predominate.
Abundant yeast. Too much sugar for too long will allow yeast to bloom and dominate the tea. Don’t know what to think of this, but I try to avoid yeast blooms.
The Worm run-off is high in bacteria and some very fast swimmers.
The finished tea smell is mild earthy with a hint of barn yard (in a good way).

None of this is set in stone. I have added too much fish fertilizer and had it stink of fish.
Have been through a number of inoculants including Capulator’s and Alaskan Humus etc., but there seems to be a strong enough resident population in the alfalfa to seed the microbial population, so I skip additions for now. (Other than that Bti)

For the most part this tea simply fits easily into my garden tasks, and I couldn’t be happier with the vitality of the garden (now that I have a gnat bloom under control).

So let me know how and why you think of tea differently than I, and we shall see what improvements might be made.

Nice presentation Dunge. Thanks for the recipe i'll give it a try on my girls. I'm using something similar with a few tweaks. Great point about the sugars never really though about it in relation to a yeast bloom, makes sense. Also the leachate from the worm compost must give you a ton of life, I have to start a worm bin soon. I would leave out the bti as I don't have gnats at the moment. Looks real like real solid food foe the soil and the plant.:)

Again thanks

Slap
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
I think that the worm juice may be adding more in terms of microbial activity, while the alfalfa can offer up the N and possibly a wee bit of triacontanol.

I just learned that I cannot buy any kind of feed grade molasses in California that may be used for any kind of baiting of any animals. At least, not through Tractor Supply I can't.

In any event, I wouldn't be surprised if some airborne microbes are captured using this method, and I wouldn't be surprised if yeast is one of the most commonly found. What would surprise me would be if Dunge could figure out what that yeast does. Is it a beer-type of yeast, or could it be used to make bread? I know that for a long time whenever I made teas with any kind of sugars they ended up smelling like beer. Of course it made sense--Dave was homebrewing at the time. The only way that yeast could have been introduced to my teas would have been via air (at that time).
 
J

jcash

59
8
I have a new soil mix im tryin out and I want to know if it looks right in terms of amendments and quanties. Soil is ffof,light warrior 2:1 ratio about 3 cft. Or 23 gallons worth. Amendments are 7gal peralite,7gal worm castings. Base mix. Added are 1.5c blood meal,3cbone meal,2c kelp meal,3c dolomite lime,1.5c alfalfa meal,1.5c cottonseed meal,2c humate,1c azomite,3c rockphosphate,1.5c epson salts. Its been cookin since yesterday just thought I get it critiqued by the farm to let me know if messed up anywhere. Gonna b droppin lemon dropkush,georgebush,cadillackush,la confidential,and vanillakush in this mix in about a month or so . Thanx in advance
 
7

7thson

Guest
Hey Caveman,
Looking good n dirty.Is that rice hulls in their?:watching:
 
caveman4.20

caveman4.20

5,969
313
Lol man those are roots taking advantage of everybit of space!
 
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