Post Your UC Problems Here!

  • Thread starter jimmyhoffa59
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H

HannaMan

Hey UC FORUM,
I thank you for havin' the CHERUB w/ the rotating sword allow me re-entrance into the Garden of Eden.

I would like to share images of our commercial OPS all mobbed up in a genuine effort to contribute to this " gem " of a forum, however, i'm not there, POSTWISE.

So, once again, in a genuine effort to underpromise & overdeliver; someday.

You dont need certain # of posts to contribute a journal with pictures...Feel free! :party0042:


Jack, excuse me for not knowing, but aren't you topping off with plain R.O water??

If that were the case, wouldn't you be adding nutrients directly to the epiccenter?

Just trying to figure your PH fluctuation throughout the course of the day..I'm assuming the nutes are mixing/settling throughout the system, and you're just getting a reading in the epic-center.
 
D

Donkdbz

If you get this
IMG_3572.JPG


I would transplant into another medium because no matter what you do it will turn to

IMG_31501.JPG


I have tried DM zone, Hydrofungicide, Physan 20 and Bleach. Waters temps where 65, No light leaks and RO water. What I did not have was a UV hooked to output of the RO. Because RO will not actually stop some spores from coming through.

Shits is like Herpes for plants it may look like its gone but it will be back.
 
jimmyhoffa59

jimmyhoffa59

I use RO it has a ph of 6.5 to 6.8 so if your using tap water your going to have to add ph down just make sure you use a little and add 80 to 90- % water to dilute it..Striaght PH down is a big no never do that...JACK

Well I am going to get a RO before I put next ladies in the system with a UV sterilizer, not sure what the ph will be after the RO but if it is like yours then I will not add any down unless it settles too high after 24 hours. I will use a reservoir and only make adjustments after 24 hours as well, diluting heavily before entering epicenter.

If you get this
IMG_3572.JPG


I would transplant into another medium because no matter what you do it will turn to

IMG_31501.JPG


I have tried DM zone, Hydrofungicide, Physan 20 and Bleach. Waters temps where 65, No light leaks and RO water. What I did not have was a UV hooked to output of the RO. Because RO will not actually stop some spores from coming through.

Shits is like Herpes for plants it may look like its gone but it will be back.


That is EXACTLY what my roots were fucking doing, even when they were healthy growing good there was shit like that first picture, and ya it would start to build up more in patches.. like undissolved nutrients or something. Would be able to rinse it off, then ya it came right back. Was a bitch.. IS a bitch actually.
 
M

mrdizzle

Dizzle is a lot of drunk right now but donkz my homie is spitting the truth, do everything and anything right, do everything everyone and anyone has posted in this thread right, but bottom line is, stick with RDWC long enough and your going to be gifting the hydro gods your harvest at some point. every system had its nitches no doubt, but only RDWC's problems kills your plants overnight sight unseen. I could take a loose dump in my res right now and my plants would still harvest

Im going down stairs and taking some shots to post some pics of some fucking monsters in 4:1 perlite that is not only easier but 1000% safer than RDWC, and it should make everyone question why their rollin the dice with RDWC, not to down the UC stock prices but I wouldt feel right watching more and more peolple flush 3 months and 15grand down the toilet cuz they wanted to nice tight blue looking system.

Kenny rogers (the gambler) called, he said suck me beautiful
 
M

MediMary

Dizzle is a lot of drunk right now but donkz my homie is spitting the truth, do everything and anything right, do everything everyone and anyone has posted in this thread right, but bottom line is, stick with RDWC long enough and your going to be gifting the hydro gods your harvest at some point. every system had its nitches no doubt, but only RDWC's problems kills your plants overnight sight unseen. I could take a loose dump in my res right now and my plants would still harvest

Im going down stairs and taking some shots to post some pics of some fucking monsters in 4:1 perlite that is not only easier but 1000% safer than RDWC, and it should make everyone question why their rollin the dice with RDWC, not to down the UC stock prices but I wouldt feel right watching more and more peolple flush 3 months and 15grand down the toilet cuz they wanted to nice tight blue looking system.

Kenny rogers (the gambler) called, he said suck me beautiful

ROFLMAO, EPIC post!!!
 
F

Farmer Jon

Premium Member
Supporter
If you get this
IMG_3572.JPG


I would transplant into another medium because no matter what you do it will turn to

IMG_31501.JPG


I have tried DM zone, Hydrofungicide, Physan 20 and Bleach. Waters temps where 65, No light leaks and RO water. What I did not have was a UV hooked to output of the RO. Because RO will not actually stop some spores from coming through.

Shits is like Herpes for plants it may look like its gone but it will be back.

I don't know the details, which is why i'm asking was your system alive?
Beneficial, enzymes, etc.
Details please, because over the past months I have witnessed more than one problematic RDWC grow, and it seams they almost always involve an attempt at a sterile nutrient solution. H202, bleach, Zone, Algaecide's, etc.
Although there have been successful endeavors utilizing the sterile method, I would have to argue that having a army of beneficial bacteria, fungi and/or enzymes to aid in the life cycle of any plant may be more efficient after all.
Maybe mother nature got it right the first time.
PH issues are the only downside of a living system, as far as my experience goes and thats a feather on the scale at this point.
Base, Beny's, Enzymes, RE (hormone(trade secret) for accelerated root growth), floral boosters BAM!:party0036: this solution requires air, complete absence of light and cool temps to thrive (65-68).

There is always a chance that any crop will result in failure. Take notes, document everything. Your successes as well as failures.
Detailed information lends a better understanding of future endeavors, therefore insuring a successful venture.
FJ
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

You go Dizzle

Dizzle is a lot of drunk right now but donkz my homie is spitting the truth, do everything and anything right, do everything everyone and anyone has posted in this thread right, but bottom line is, stick with RDWC long enough and your going to be gifting the hydro gods your harvest at some point. every system had its nitches no doubt, but only RDWC's problems kills your plants overnight sight unseen. I could take a loose dump in my res right now and my plants would still harvest

Im going down stairs and taking some shots to post some pics of some fucking monsters in 4:1 perlite that is not only easier but 1000% safer than RDWC, and it should make everyone question why their rollin the dice with RDWC, not to down the UC stock prices but I wouldt feel right watching more and more peolple flush 3 months and 15grand down the toilet cuz they wanted to nice tight blue looking system.

Kenny rogers (the gambler) called, he said suck me beautiful

:)
 
M

MediMary

Interesting about the beneficials Farmer John,

ucmenow previously said something about running benies in the UC( i think it was you)?

If remember correctly you were saying only 1/4 strength, and to crown feed, something about biofilms/? care to expand again?
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
If I were going to go the UV route, I would put it in-line with the UC itself, not limit it to the RO output only. Otherwise, it's only going to hit that which gets through the RO. Also, you've got to remember that for UV to be effective the flow through the unit absolutely MUST be slow enough or it won't allow enough "contact" time for the ultraviolent radiation to kill most microbes.

All that said, I believe I would find myself landing with Farmer Jon, mostly because of my fishtank-eyes.
In other words, why didn't someone from the very start, such as the motherboard, not suggest this to Hoffa?
Someone did, on the very first page. :)
If you don't have good quality water, get the RO filter first. I have to assume that water is as important in UC as it is in coco growing or reefkeeping.
It's so very elementary,
So is basic reading comprehension, but, well....

I'm leaving the rest out, I saw that this guy was banned then unbanned, but these words have been left in perpetuity for all to see.
ANyways UPDATE TIME!!!!!!

I still have fresh water in there TAP, and little bit of nutes and like only 10ml of Zone..
Here is the ONLY thing improving the flaccid plants.. I raised my humidity over 50% with a vicks walmart special humidifier -the vicks.. and they are perking up some.. It is clear the roots are totally locked up and not even uptaking water because now they they are getting a lot of humidity 50-70% the leaves are starting to lift back up. SO FAR.. haha I just went snowboarding and came back and left my tent closed during dark cycle and the humidity was 94% LOL Tent was straight WET in there.. but wont hurt them since they need moisture in the air so bad apparently.

So thus far.. only thing helping is humidity.. dunno whats up with my roots being pretty much useless.
Vapor pressure deficit, and right now I can't remember whether or not you mentioned RH in your first post, but I have found that with my girls (remember, we're coco-nuts) a room temp of 80F + [email protected]% gives them the most amazing leaf turgor, I never even see it quite so... erect (the only word I can think of ATM) in my best OD grows. Hold on a minute, there's a calculator and damn if I know what the numbers actually mean, but I do know where my girls like it.
http://www.autogrow.com/vpd_calc.php
http://www.autogrow.com/1_information/1_vpd/info_vpd.html

***I see Shady hit ya with the VPD info.***

I would also like to point out that what many folks may be taking as "mold" (algae) might actually be cyanobacteria, and no amount of algacide, fungicide is going to kill it. Broad spectrum antibiotics are the ticket, erythromycin is what I used to use (also great for when starfishes begin to go necrotic, I've seen many come back after a basic Tx with broad spectrum antibiotics).
 
Y

yourmomsfav

can we get daniel or christian from CC on this post with any of there findings relating to the root problems?
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

Here's what Daniel told me

One of the inherent weaknesses in a "sterile" set up is the absence on life. It is this absence that can subject the plant roots to invasion by what equates to be the most resiliant and biocide resistant strains of pathogens.

A clean, mineral based nutrient run with homeopathic dosages of select beneficials is the most likely way to avoid DWC sudden death syndrome.

Sterility leaves a vacancy for disease organisms to fill....intro of bennies promotes the colonization of a plant symbiotic microbe which will out compete the pathogens....or at very least compete with them for territory in the root zone.

Bottom line.

***Root crown inoc with products like Great White and ZHO (Botanicare) which have myco properties which need constant root contact

***Aqueous inoc with bacillus Subtillus like Companion, Aquashield which can colonize in solution.

The rule of thumb in the UC with bennies is less is more, inoc without adding excessive biosolids. Its these biosolids that creat biofilms which cause anerobic layers which can lead to pathogen habitat.

Most relavent thing to consider.

Biocides will ultimately mutate the current pathogens that do exist into super strains of fusarium, phytophera, pythium, verticillium....whatever they might be. Very much like what has happened in hospitals with Staphylococcus infections becoming increasingly drug resistent.

Natural competition from indiginous beneficial microbes will keep these root diseases in check, keeping them from specializing into specimens that are evolved to resist antibiotic suppresion.


Moral of the story......sterility is a pretty slippery slope.
 
D

Donkdbz

I don't know the details, which is why i'm asking was your system alive?
Beneficial, enzymes, etc.
Details please, because over the past months I have witnessed more than one problematic RDWC grow, and it seams they almost always involve an attempt at a sterile nutrient solution. H202, bleach, Zone, Algaecide's, etc.
Although there have been successful endeavors utilizing the sterile method, I would have to argue that having a army of beneficial bacteria, fungi and/or enzymes to aid in the life cycle of any plant may be more efficient after all.
Maybe mother nature got it right the first time.
PH issues are the only downside of a living system, as far as my experience goes and thats a feather on the scale at this point.
Base, Beny's, Enzymes, RE (hormone(trade secret) for accelerated root growth), floral boosters BAM!:party0036: this solution requires air, complete absence of light and cool temps to thrive (65-68).

There is always a chance that any crop will result in failure. Take notes, document everything. Your successes as well as failures.
Detailed information lends a better understanding of future endeavors, therefore insuring a successful venture.
FJ

1st round was alive.
Canna Aqua A/B, Calmag, Cannazyme and Roots Exel. Crown fed a lil great white.

Then came the herpes. Drained system, refilled. Ran physan20, drained added hydrofungicide calmag and a/b ran for a few days new roots came back and all. drained added calmag and a/b let run for a day looks good. added roots excel and cannazym next day holy hell. roots fully encased with that crap.

I waste another week then scrap the run. Down a 1000 bucks of nutes water and electric.

Ok so clean system with 35%h202, and physan 20. did 3 cleanings while new girls were vegging in cubes.

Well I figure might as well sterile a shot.
no great white or roots excel(does contain bacteria. useing DM zone. Everything looks good for a couple weeks. herpes comes back added hydrofungi and h202 clears it up but after a week it refuses to leave. some girls start yellowing.

IMG_3152.JPG


Pulled them bitchs put em in Coco. and they live.
 
jimmyhoffa59

jimmyhoffa59

I crown fed with great white also... by crown fed from what I understood I mixed the powder into a gallon jug and poured some around the top of the hydroton.. dunno if I was "crown feeding" correctly but thats what I did.

As far as UV lamp for the whole system then I for sure would not be able to run a "live" system as it would inherently kill all the bacteria on contact. Also I feel like it would be very impractical to run it system wide because it requires such a slow pass over rate that I would completely road block the purpose of the CURRENT in the Undercurrent system.. but using it to fill my rez and all that would probably really help things out better then I am right now.. no disrespect I just do not think it would actually work is all for entire system. I was using the full house and garden line and was told to drop my zymes from my clone provider.. so I did. They are perking up right now with the humidity alone.. so far its been the ONLY thing making them come back.. which like I said.. shows that my roots were not taking up even water.. weird as shit.. let me tell you this ONLY happened RIGHT after I spotted more of that brown buildup(light) and ran 16ml of Physan20.. 10 hours later plants shit themselves.. which is strange since I have no idea why it would hurt them besides all the foam. Its supposed to be completely safe.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
Jimmy, most of the beneficial microbes are benthic, i.e. attached to SURFACES. Many of the pathogenic microbes are free-floating, so a UV sterilizer can work very well in this situation. The way I would plumb it would be to add a loop, just like how it's done in aquatics, that will allow some of the filtered water to go through the sterilizer at a proper flow rate, but won't force the flow of the entire system to be slowed down. Many types of aquaria absolutely must have high flow rates, not so dissimilar to what you've got going on now.

As for why the plants shit themselves post-Physan Tx--this is just a guess, but perhaps when the microbes were killed off by the Physan they released something toxic, OR they used up huge amounts of O2 and caused the dissolved O2 levels of the water to drop too much.

I have seen a huge change in response in my girls with two factors, humidity and temperature, being the only factors to change. What you're observing makes a great deal of sense to me.
 
jimmyhoffa59

jimmyhoffa59

Seamaiden.. just read that article on the vapor pressure or whatever.. that sounds like humidity being 20% or lower is what fucked my plants up.. how it closes the stama or whatever to keep out co2 uptake.. which would explain why my plants were so small for the time they were vegging. It also said it could inhibit nutrient uptake and cause issues with roots and bacteria.. lalala.. ya it all makes sense.. I live in Redding California.. its been rainy or just plain cold out I cannot understand why my humidity is always so low but never-the-less it would appear my low humidity may have been my downfall from the beginning.. wow.. sometimes it has never seemed to matter but I dunno why its so damn dry here..
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
If you've been heating your house then perhaps that explains the super-low RH. What's the RH outside?

Indoors the low RH causes bad static electricity, and it's so bad that my husband and I are now 100% trained to ground each other BEFORE kissing, because lemme tell ya, that can be really sucky if it shocks you, right in the kisser. Always ground yourself before kissing.
 
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