Post Your UC Problems Here!

motherlode · Jan 13, 2011

great info farmer jon

UCMENOW · Jan 13, 2011

Trich in the root crown

MediMary said:
what exactly is excess biosolids? what makes the biosolids? more about biofilms?
Im googling, but not comprehending really?
is there a recommended dosage Daniel says for certain beneficial?

Insoluble and less soluble organic matter such as humics, clays, etc that are often used as both food sources and dispersense for the target microbes being inoc'd.

It takes extremely low amounts of inoc to colonize a suitable habitat.

Think about how little inoc of a disease organism it takes to quickly overwhelm a garden when the conditions are ripe for that disease.

UCMENOW · Jan 13, 2011

IMO, more root problems are a result of pH mismanagement and nutrient burn than any other issue. Once roots are damaged, root material sloughs off causing a subsequent outbreak of pathogens to bioremediate the organic material released by the damaged root zone.

When these issues occur in a probiotic scenario, organisms such as BS are genetically pre-programmed to deal with this slough off, competing with pathogens for this food source.

If this slough off occurs, drain the system and flush away the root exudates and epidermis to reduce the food load for potential disease outbreak. Raise lights a bit, run system with plain water for a day or 2 to allow roots to heal a bit. Once you've done this it's wise to reduce nute strength until plants recover and begin producing healthy roots again.

Farmer Jon · Jan 13, 2011

UCMENOW said:
IMO, more root problems are a result of pH mismanagement and nutrient burn than any other issue. Once roots are damaged, root material sloughs off causing a subsequent outbreak of pathogens to bioremediate the organic material released by the damaged root zone.

When these issues occur in a probiotic scenario, organisms such as BS are genetically pre-programmed to deal with this slough off, competing with pathogens for this food source.

If this slough off occurs, drain the system and flush away the root exudates and epidermis to reduce the food load for potential disease outbreak. Raise lights a bit, run system with plain water for a day or 2 to allow roots to heal a bit. Once you've done this it's wise to reduce nute strength until plants recover and begin producing healthy roots again.

You are correct in regards to the PH issues, although I believe problematic PH is a symptom and not the cause of slime, rot etc. (do not add PH adjusters to your epicenter) burning tender roots with acids/bases is BAD.
I'd imagine roots covered in a microbial membrane would have a better chance of overcoming a strong acid/base than bare roots. My argument is that there needs to be vast microbial diversity present from day 1 of the plants life cycle in order to defend against the possibility of future attacks.
FJ

UCMENOW · Jan 13, 2011

Farmer Jon is Farmer on

Farmer Jon said:
You are correct in regards to the PH issues, although I believe problematic PH is a symptom and not the cause of slime, rot etc. (do not add PH adjusters to your epicenter) burning tender roots with acids/bases is BAD.
I'd imagine roots covered in a microbial membrane would have a better chance of overcoming a strong acid/base than bare roots. My argument is that there needs to be vast microbial diversity present from day 1 of the plants life cycle in order to defend against the possibility of future attacks.
FJ

True dat.

Fried roots can start a cascade effect in regards to plant health and pH instability for sure.

Slimes certainly can cause pH issues as well.....seems like many slime attacks correspond with the use of inoculants in too heavy a dosage. These excessive microbial populations equate to too much of a good thing, ultimately competing with the plants for DO and territory in the growth module.

BudGoggles · Jan 13, 2011

UCMENOW said:
These excessive microbial populations equate to too much of a good thing, ultimately competing with the plants for DO and territory in the growth module.

So what you recommend running aqaushield at 2.5 ml per gallon?

RMCG · Jan 13, 2011

So I got a free 'tester' of a new product coming out next month or two.

Basically the guys that make the myco for just about everyone (ie Great White) have come up with a 'tea bag' myco product. Basically a tea bag that you throw into your pot, self contained, no muss, no fuss.

Myko Bags or something (need to look at the packaging again). I only got a few, but was going to test them out in a few of the netpots and see how it goes.

Might want to look into it for 'sanitary' crown feeding. I'll post up how it goes if anyone is interested.

UCMENOW · Jan 13, 2011

I checked and they recommend 5-15mls a gallon. Botanicare is notorious for over recommending nutes, with that said I'd say 2.5 sounds about right.

They recommend redosing once every 4-7 days which seems strange to me if they colonize as they should.

jimmyhoffa59 · Jan 13, 2011

Nice info guys.. I gotta be honest.. while your medical journal insight is great for looking smart I think I, along with the rest of the community in here, would love if everything was to the point and in laymen terms. I already graduated from college, I just wanna grasp the to the point info instead of getting the ENTIRE genetic engineers notes on the reason they formulated a new product. So point being.. I gather some like a sterile system but you can open yourself to "SUPER BUGS" or some people like live systems with protective myco systems protecting the roots. Got it!... I just want my plants to grow good without issues.. I will not run a completely sterile system.. too many benefits with other stuff which is much more natural in sense.

UCMENOW · Jan 13, 2011

RMCG.....Sounds like RTI, AKA Xtreme Gardening.

All their products are legit, looking forward to seeing your results.

Earth worm casting tea seems to be simple and clean as well, Farmer Jon's tea recipe with the BS, ZHO and Alaskan Humus as well.

Hoffa, you're gonna rock your next run brother, no doubt. This is a great thread, thanks for starting it.

RMCG · Jan 13, 2011

UCMENOW said:
RMCG.....Sounds like RTI, AKA Xtreme Gardening.

All their products are legit, looking forward to seeing your results.

Earth worm casting tea seems to be simple and clean as well, Farmer Jon's tea recipe with the BS, ZHO and Alaskan Humus as well.

Hoffa, you're gonna rock your next run brother, no doubt. This is a great thread, thanks for starting it.

That's the stuff. Xtreme Gardening.

I saw that tea recipe on a different board before. Might look in to it as well.

EDIT:

Looks like they are available from their store as well.

'Mykos Drops'

Ogmaster · Jan 13, 2011

I think R.O Water would help.

UCMENOW · Jan 13, 2011

F1y, heads up

f1ydave said:
Commercial hydro growers in British Columbia have been using this stuff for 30 years from what I have read...

http://www.syngentacropprotection.com/prodrender/index.aspx?prodid=658

Anyone have any opinions on this?

www.syngentacropprotection.com/pdf/labels/SCP798BL2F0909.pdf

I'd be weary on this one for anyone growing meds as it seems like it could be systemic and hard to know how to use safely with MMJ.

I think pesticide and ag chemical companies need to step up and make professional recommendations for use with Medical Herb Crops

jimmyhoffa59 · Jan 13, 2011

UCMENOW said:
I think pesticide and ag chemical companies need to step up and make professional recommendations for use with Medical Herb Crops

They probably would if they were actually testing any of their products on Medi Marij... which they do not currently.

f1ydave · Jan 13, 2011

you guys are saying that we can get this fungi in a dwc by brewing a tea with it? or adding a tea bag of it? the fungi is the only thing i am skeptical about getting to take hold in a dwc...perhaps it is something that can be added later on...

i have a sample tea that a fellow farmer gave me of 6 or 7 types of manure already concentrated for 50 gallons and a bag of worm castings...im gonna forward this link to him. maybe he can chime in too.

i personally believe in the teas as well, the more bacteria the better IMO, just don't have the experience to create them.

UCMENOW · Jan 13, 2011

Two different neighborhoods

The fungi colonizes in the the root crown area and at the base of the net pot....especially the mycorrhizals that actually live both within and through the roots themselves. The fungi has a very hard time colonizing the solution itself....that zone is generally dominated by the bacteria.

Its really helpful to keep the bacterial food sources at a minimum to help keep the bacteria from overwhelming the system.....this is usually when pH fluctuations begin.

DrGoodMeds · Jan 14, 2011

Seamaiden said:
I would also like to point out that what many folks may be taking as "mold" (algae) might actually be cyanobacteria, and no amount of algacide, fungicide is going to kill it. Broad spectrum antibiotics are the ticket, erythromycin is what I used to use (also great for when starfishes begin to go necrotic, I've seen many come back after a basic Tx with broad spectrum antibiotics).

Can you please elaborate on the disease, products and dosage used to treat?

UCMENOW · Jan 14, 2011

Period spot treatment of antibiotics when necessary is a perfect implementation IPM. Integrated Pest Management supports the use of broad spectrum treatment as a way to wipe out the pathogens and basically reboot the root zone Eco system.

By sterilizing 24/7 it becomes much harder to get the shock and awe factor against those pesky disease microbes.

I really dig the insight from an aquiarists point of view. my friends with coral tanks feed synthetic mineral based nutrients and dose with probiotics and their tanks flourish. Sounds like a pretty good approach.

jimmyhoffa59 · Jan 14, 2011

You know you really hit the nail on the head with the aquarium guys stuff.. My Aunt and Uncle have had a tropical fish store my whole life.. they got 40 years of experience with live rock, plants and all that crap.. I bet if I did not loathe them that they might have some insightful info as well ... some of those people spend THOUSANDS to keep ROCKS alive and underwater flora.. they got treatment and some of that stuff is just as tender as Marijuana roots. They CANT run a sterile system..Interesting.

deacon1503 · Jan 14, 2011

What about adding bags (pump bags) zip tied full of hydroton, dyna-rok, or pea gravel for the bennies to colonize? They could be placed under the diffuser in the epi. It would be just like a brand new fish tank having to reach some sort of homestasis when bacteria boosters are used before fish are added. The good bacteria, the beneficial, in the fish tank help maintain order in the tank, preventing additional foreign bacterial intruders and id rather have good then bad. Same in my UC.

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