Results Of My First Aerated Compost Tea Brew

[Perception]

Here is a of the microscope I've been using. I think it's an LW Scientific Observer 3.

 

[Seamaiden]

That's a big step up from the cheapie student scope I've been using, but it does go to 400x.

I should have worded myself better but i am not English so sorry :) Anything that is confusing please highlight so I can perhaps rethink my choices :) or we can do this in Estonian :)

No, it makes perfect sense and matches my understanding.

 

[Seamaiden]

I suspect the basic principles of aeration are similar for ACT as for Fish for example, the key is just making sure that as the microbes use the oxygen, that we have enough being replaced. If we dont, we will see a reduction in bio diversity as appears to be the case here. In our tests, Teas absent in fungal content are not worth using as a foliar :) I suspect most people who ramp teas as useless are missing the significance of O2 ppms on an ability to brew a foilar disease counters etc.

The purpose of foam fractionation, or protein skimming, is entirely different in the aquatic world--the sole goal is to remove 'pollutants'. This is because, especially in reefkeeping, we're trying to mimic what are actually very, very nutrient-poor waters (part of the problem, as I'm 100%+ you already know, with the world's coral reefs is agricultural and mining run-off, mostly in the form of things like NO3) as these are necessary for achieving a very particular set of parameters necessary to both hermatypic and non-hermatypic (reef building and non-reef building) benthic invertebrates. This does indeed include the very same groups or families of nitrifying microbes that we're harnessing to work with us for our terrestrial soil cultivation needs (obviously not the same species, but they do the same thing, oxidize NH3/NH4 and other forms of N into less toxic forms).

So we're actually glad to see foaming in our skimmers, and that skimmate is considered a waste product. Another member here is toying with the idea of using the skimmate for feeding his plants, because it's a whole lot of concentrated goodies.

I guess what I'm driving at is the balance that must be achieved between maintaining appropriate DO levels and *not* causing foam fractionation to occur. Bigger bubbles? That's been my answer, but I haven't been testing DO levels, just looking at the bugs in the student scope, and since I'm over 50 I have LOTS of eye floaties.

 

[Perception]

and since I'm over 50 I have LOTS of eye floaties.

Those eye floaties are so annoying! "Oh, is that a nematode!? Nope, it's just in my eyeball".

 

[Ecompost]

The purpose of foam fractionation, or protein skimming, is entirely different in the aquatic world--the sole goal is to remove 'pollutants'. This is because, especially in reefkeeping, we're trying to mimic what are actually very, very nutrient-poor waters (part of the problem, as I'm 100%+ you already know, with the world's coral reefs is agricultural and mining run-off, mostly in the form of things like NO3) as these are necessary for achieving a very particular set of parameters necessary to both hermatypic and non-hermatypic (reef building and non-reef building) benthic invertebrates. This does indeed include the very same groups or families of nitrifying microbes that we're harnessing to work with us for our terrestrial soil cultivation needs (obviously not the same species, but they do the same thing, oxidize NH3/NH4 and other forms of N into less toxic forms).

So we're actually glad to see foaming in our skimmers, and that skimmate is considered a waste product. Another member here is toying with the idea of using the skimmate for feeding his plants, because it's a whole lot of concentrated goodies.

I guess what I'm driving at is the balance that must be achieved between maintaining appropriate DO levels and *not* causing foam fractionation to occur. Bigger bubbles? That's been my answer, but I haven't been testing DO levels, just looking at the bugs in the student scope, and since I'm over 50 I have LOTS of eye floaties.

Ah bless you, I get those eye webs too at times, its annoying, so I upgraded to a laptop screen so as to give me old body the best chance to keep up with the new knowledge :)
Wow ok cool you are properly in to your aqua systems, this I dig. i cant say i know much about the art, but I would like to have a better go so we might try fish and fauna.
You may have seen recent studies on NO3 run off, which have showed an alarming increase in household use of plant fertilizers, reporting that domestic out paces agricultural practice by 1/3.
I would not be surprised in light of the horrid concoctions sold in many typical garden stores here in Europe. Peter 20-20-20 being a prime example of a product, having been on sale for generations, I can only shudder at how much of this stuff has been poured on to the delicate soil system. As humans we like to target the thin layers of planetary defense from our own obliteration. Be it the Atmosphere above, or the ground below. We are increasingly desperate for any result as a species. fracking being a good example of the ingrained nature of growth at all costs, reflected in the continued use of disgraceful fertilizers in the back yards of many moms and pops.

smaller bubbles would get more air in the mix, less food or rather food added more slowly, so rather than lumping the FH in, drip it in over a period of hours and use the basic understanding of population increase to base a schedule, so say every 2 hours, add another 5ml or less, however you decide, this can often be trail and error anyway as with all good science :)

FYI some data you may know, if not it could be useful: The bacteria/archaea can divide every 20 minutes and appear as moving (motile) or stationary (non-motile) dots, rods and long strands. (sorry about those strands, for me they most closely represtn the eye default I have LOL, but with practice you can tell your floaters from your motiles and strand/ hypha Usually these organisms are seen in large volume by the 18 hour to 24 hour period and this is a brew at this stage although a basic tea, ideal for brassicas etc tho at this stage, or for when developing the media ahead of planting.
Moving on with the brew and in response to the population explosion of bacteria/archaea we have a congruent reactive increase in the protozoa population beginning around the 24 hour period. The usual type of protozoa which we see, given an efficient brewer is flagellates, however sometimes there will also be naked amoebae. The third type of protozoa, which we do not wish to see a ton of, are ciliates, as they can indicate the presence of anaerobic bacteria. The flagellate population can double every 2 hours so usually at the 36 hour period we have a sufficient diversity of microorganisms to call the brew finished and apply it to the soil and plants. One thing I noticed was higher levels of protein N in a foam state, really impacted the rate of growth of good guy protozoa, we kind of miss a stage and go right to the Cilliates, this is no bueno as you might imagine. I suspect this occurs where people are adding compost that may be really high in N to begin with, to which BSM or FH and more is added, this concoction is hard on air pumps and certainly protozoa.
If we think that the reason we have plant N (NH4+) in biological systems is more or less as a consequence of flagellates which are about 10:1 C:N eating bacteria etc which can be as high as 3:1 C:N, and so over N for mr/ miss Flagellate, hence on eating, these Protozoa immediately dump the excess N in the from of ionic NH4+ right next to our plants. Everything is homeostasis . Excessive NH4+ in the brew will over time produce more cilliate protozoa and facultative bacteria which is no beuno :).
Given the fine balancing act that a good tea requires, it is no small wonder we have problems getting the exact ratios of biology.
A good temperature range is usually 65 to 75 F but unless really cold the timing estimate is quite reliable.

Humans have a remarkable capacity to evolve and when we do big things happen
http://www.nature.com/nature/journal/v528/n7582/full/nature16444.html


However, lest we forget about the part we as MJ farmers and growers play, esp those of us not growing with organics and native soil biology

The United Nations recently issued a stern warning regarding the excessive use of nitrogen in agriculture: “[W]e are fertilizing the Earth on a global scale and in a largely uncontrolled experiment.” Nitrogen is an essential nutrient for crop production. Excess nitrogen, however, pollutes both surface water and groundwater and has serious health and environmental consequences. In response, the European Community (EC) and its Member States have enacted regulatory measures to reduce further pollution from nitrates used in agriculture. This Article analyzes the 1991 EC Nitrates Directive and its implementation, discussing agriculture in the EC, the use of nitrogen, and the harmful effects of excess nitrates. The Article also considers environmental law-making in the EC and traces the history of the EC’s treatment of nitrates from agriculture. The Article focuses on the nitrate situation in England, with emphasis on voluntary programs to control nitrates. Finally, the Article concludes with an analysis of the implementation of the Nitrates Directive in England and a discussion of an important 1999 European Court of Justice decision that interprets the Directive.

 

[Ecompost]

Those eye floaties are so annoying! "Oh, is that a nematode!? Nope, it's just in my eyeball".

lol

 

[Ecompost]

whoops sorry here is the directive article on N http://www.bc.edu/content/dam/files/schools/law/lawreviews/journals/bcealr/27_4/01_TXT.htm

 

[Ecompost]

That's a big step up from the cheapie student scope I've been using, but it does go to 400x.

No, it makes perfect sense and matches my understanding.

yes i know, it was just as much a kick in the wallet for us, but we havent looked back since. I have faith in the scope, the thing is easy to use and it allows me to be as specific as possible without really hardcore gene testing there is no way we could afford with the frequency we would need :-) I know its a lot of money, for me it was a long saving project, and as with all things, it is a matter of need. While the subject may be of interest, it might not match economic intentions. this I totally get. Estonia is the very poor nation. Ergo the corrupt politician who leads my town can swing votes by offering nothing more than a bag of winter fire wood and a sack of potatoes to buy his passing to Parliament, despite very obvious and public knowledge of his nature.

 

[Ecompost]

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hahaha nice :-)

 

[Ecompost]

Yet another gem...... Thanks friend:D

your welcome sir ;-)

 

[Perception]

I'm getting ready to run a second batch. Have a small powdery mildew (or some kind of mold fungus) issue on some of the young cannabis plants in veg closet. I've been spraying with mild herbal anti-fungal/mold concoctions, but it's only suppressing the mold - not irradicating.

Give that, I'd like to foliar spray with a fungally dominated ACT. Sound correct? I was wondering if anyone has ever used a myco-starter to help jumpstart the fungus in brew. Like Myco-grow from fungi.com http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/product/mycogrow-for-vegetables-1-oz.html

I was thinking I'd sprinkle a pinch on the compost while it is prepping for 24hrS with a tiny bit of wheat bran and BSM, before I put in brewer. Thoughts?

 

[Seamaiden]

There have been very mixed results with regard to the research on using AACTs to control stuff like PM. I'd try the milk trick first m'self. Or high pH water.

 

[Ecompost]

I'm getting ready to run a second batch. Have a small powdery mildew (or some kind of mold fungus) issue on some of the young cannabis plants in veg closet. I've been spraying with mild herbal anti-fungal/mold concoctions, but it's only suppressing the mold - not irradicating.

Give that, I'd like to foliar spray with a fungally dominated ACT. Sound correct? I was wondering if anyone has ever used a myco-starter to help jumpstart the fungus in brew. Like Myco-grow from fungi.com http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/product/mycogrow-for-vegetables-1-oz.html

I was thinking I'd sprinkle a pinch on the compost while it is prepping for 24hrS with a tiny bit of wheat bran and BSM, before I put in brewer. Thoughts?

ideally you would have something that includes bacillus amyloliquefaciens
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/ps.3837/abstract
if you cant access this, you may have some success with a foliar of Baking Soda
This will likely need to be repeated. You need to watch your irrigation levels. These mold appear when plants are stressed. It is a natural mechanism to cull the genetically weak

 

[Perception]

Awesome, thanks everyone.

Ecompost - totally agree about the stress. I've changed some environmental conditions to try and alleviate things (have increased fresh air exchange), and adjusted the watering regiment a little. Things are better, although still battling the PM. I may start using Blumats for auto-watering to keep things consistent.

Seamaiden - Thanks for the ideas. I brewed up some Nettle & Comfrey tea, and foliar sprayed. It knocked back the PM by about 90% overnight. It was really amazing actually. Alas, it's still trying to creep in here and there. But at least I have it under control for the time being.

Doing an ACT brew this weekend, but most of it will be going on the lawn & garden, haha. Will foliar spray the cannabis and add a little to soil too. Will post any results. But as eCompost said, I believe environmental conditions are the main culprit.

 

[Perception]

Oh, but back to the question - has anyone ever used myco-starters in an ACT brew to boost fungal hyphae?

 

[Ecompost]

I'm getting ready to run a second batch. Have a small powdery mildew (or some kind of mold fungus) issue on some of the young cannabis plants in veg closet. I've been spraying with mild herbal anti-fungal/mold concoctions, but it's only suppressing the mold - not irradicating.

Give that, I'd like to foliar spray with a fungally dominated ACT. Sound correct? I was wondering if anyone has ever used a myco-starter to help jumpstart the fungus in brew. Like Myco-grow from fungi.com http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/product/mycogrow-for-vegetables-1-oz.html

I was thinking I'd sprinkle a pinch on the compost while it is prepping for 24hrS with a tiny bit of wheat bran and BSM, before I put in brewer. Thoughts?

I meant to add, BSM around mold is no Bueno buddy. I get the point of the Bran, but I think increasing SA is a little late in light of the presence of mildew now. People have made good suggestions re milk etc.
If you can get a media inoculate product that contains the bacillus amyloliquefaciens ( i do make one, sorry but I do :-) ) then you will need to be more vigilant with your routine and ensure you have better balance in the environmental aspects. This will include more balance to your irrigation and humidity levels specifically.

 

[Ecompost]

Oh, but back to the question - has anyone ever used myco-starters in an ACT brew to boost fungal hyphae?

yes, they are a good way to be more certain that you have at least a glomus or two and some trichoderman for example. Go for a high spore count product that has been reviewed. Lots of very low rent mycos about

 

[Ecompost]

if I am sharing old news, then sorry, but take a look at a Vapor Pressure Deficit Chart since this will help you track you temp to RH levels. If you can try to keep in the right range, you will get far more benefit than any product might otherwise offer.

 

[Perception]

This is great. I'll calculate my VPD in my veg closet this weekend. I've got an IR thermometer so can get leaf temps pretty well. I've been making the assumption that my veg closet had a low RH (high VPD) because the air that is being pumped in to it is low RH (40-50% - which is from the flower room). BUT... I never actually measured it. I think it's a good bet to guess that I have a low VPD.

I'll try Seamaiden's suggestion of milk, and maybe the Baking soda. Thanks

 

[Ecompost]

This is great. I'll calculate my VPD in my veg closet this weekend. I've got an IR thermometer so can get leaf temps pretty well. I've been making the assumption that my veg closet had a low RH (high VPD) because the air that is being pumped in to it is low RH (40-50% - which is from the flower room). BUT... I never actually measured it. I think it's a good bet to guess that I have a low VPD.

I'll try Seamaiden's suggestion of milk, and maybe the Baking soda. Thanks

yes if you run IR, dont forget, IR passes through air without warming it up, only when it hits an object, say a leaf, does it give up its energy as heat, so, any room temp is based on the heat minus the IR, meaning a plant room that reads 27C is likely reading closer to 30C+ internal plant temp, once we factor in IR from HID or other sources.
Getting a leaf temp using a laser temp meter is a good idea. If you can get the room canopy to 25c max, keep the root zone temps down specifically, O2 over 25c is not very reliable in soil/ coco, so keep soil temps lower, use mulch matts, higher/ dimmer light sources, reduce salt feeds, if temps rise above that, O2 depletes as temps rise. Low O2 in the root means bad actors will eat your plant. Friendly microbes like base 6ppms O2, dropping root temps to compensate for hikes is a good idea, so you average the total. EG if you can lower night temps etc, all of this helps.

Added....and may be left field but anyway...
I thought you might like the following article. It may help explain the positive effects of gardening and who knows, collective models may result in wide spread mental wellbeing due to similar bacterial modulations of Cytokinesis among wider groups of humans? Collective well being :-)

I was myself reading some older articles about soil and it's effect on human well being after noticing on numbers of occasions, I get unhappy after extended periods where my hands are not knuckle deep in soil.
I was discussing it with a colleague and he guided me to this 2007 research paper, summary in link below.

Life in soil and our continued abuse of it, is without question one of the most serious matters limiting the possibility of ongoing human wellness Marco.

Saving, restoring and protecting soil systems is more than a mission for Alan and me, it is a matter of national and global security in everyone's interest ..