dosnt happen that quickThose were green before I lowered the nutes. And it happened right away. Last time that's how it started and with days they were all dead.
That's what is so funny, you're so busy judging me that you have no clue that I did exactly what you said!Because you don't know shit dude, and you get cocky when someone tries to help you.! You are maybe the 3rd hardheadest person I have ran across in 2 freaking years! You think he HAD TO EMAIL THEM for your ass? No he fucking did not! So why dont you show him some damn respect and appreciate what this brother is doing for you! Ive watched you cry and moan and groan for over a week! Pull your fucking panties up Son!
Now Here is what your gonna do! Your gonna treat the ppl helping you like HUMANS, or nobody is gonna help you, and you will find yourself all alone on this thread, and this journey!
Wisher isnt no 17 year old kid regurgitating youtube info to you, he is in top 5 growers on this site. You should feel damn lucky to get his services!
Now im gonna tell you what I told you 5 pages back, lower the ppm, and add some calcium, because you fall out of range when you lower the base...
No shawn, wish tried to tell you that it takes a few days to see dif, and you was a smart ass, and ive been following this thread eventho I havent been commenting..Seriously! If I don't just shut up and do what I'm told I'm being some asshole for just trying to understand.
I'm not the one being an add for debating facts I find confusing!
Thank you @Wisher619 for taking the time to email them and post it here. Very cool thing to do. Finding out they use the 700ppm scale answers a few questions for me. Respect brother.@Shawnery from AN tech support
Thank you for your inquiry,
The new nutrient calculator is designed to be used with the “pH-ppm perfect Bigger Yields Flowering System.” We have standardized all the base nutrients to 4ml/L and all the supplements to 2ml/L. Certain products have been concentrated while others have been supplemented with more chelates and other components to allow for better absorption and decreased application rates. Having said that, the application times for some of the supplements have changed, to accommodate for the new system.
With that in mind, the new nutrient calculator is designed to be used with the pH-ppm perfect system which has not been launched yet due to a number of delays we had with the label registration processes in certain states. Because of these delays, we still suggest using the old nutrient calculator listed here:
Having said that, the nutrient calculator is still being updated to include a number of components and functions. It is by no means finished and we are working very hard to include the organic line up, rooted clones/seedlings section and the mothers option. We still recommend using the old nutrient calculator while we make this transition and allow access to these items.
If you are applying at the 4ml/L application rate, those amounts should be used for a bigger plant. If your plants are smaller, you should apply considerably less.
I am including a feeding guideline below.
Don’t start feeding nutrients to rooting clones or seedlings such as the 2 part Sensi A & B (Grow) until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new/true leaves.
Until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new (clones)/true (seedlings) leaves feed them only water. You can foliar spray them with 1/4 strength B-52 (1 mL/liter) until then. You can also add 1/4 strength applications of Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice, to the water that you will use in the root zone.
Clones seedlings need high levels of moisture in the medium
(80% -85% is good 100% is too much)
They also like a warmer environment in the root zone 70 F – 80 F.
Entering the Vegetative stage, Use the Rooted Clones / Seedlings schedule in the nutrient calculator for the first two weeks of feeding)
At 3 or 4 sets of new leaves mix nutrient solution at 300 ppm
Mix nutrient solution at 600 ppm
Switch to Vegetative Stage feeding schedule if you are going to vegetate the plants longer than two weeks, the calculator goes up to another 8 weeks (you don’t need to veg the whole 8 weeks).
Week 3 is Week 1 on the vegetative chart
Mix nutrient solution at 600 - 900 ppm depending on size
Mix nutrient solution at 900 -1200 ppm depending on size
Follow chart for additional weeks as required
When entering the Bloom Stage follow the medium feeding strength. (If growing indoors the bloom stage starts when the lights are switched to twelve hours of darkness and twelve hour of light).
Week 1- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1000 ppm
Week 2 - mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 3- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 4- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1600 ppm
Week 5- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 6- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 7- Flush
The nutrient calculator is set for a 7 week strain; it can be customized for plants that require more than 7 weeks to complete their flower stage. Just click add a week.
The amounts suggested in the nutrient calculator are the total nutrient to feed the plant for a whole week, not the amount to give them per feeding.
If you want to give your plants nutrient solution more than once per week, divide the amount (total ppm) for the week by the number of feedings that you want to give them to calculate the ppm per feeding. A light cycle of plain ph adjusted water prior to commencing a new week’s feeding schedule will help prevent lock out conditions.
Plants may increase their over all size up to 2/3, during the bloom stage, for this reason the feeding schedules in the calculator increases the strength of the nutrient solution every week, reaching the highest concentration on the fourth week of bloom. If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7Th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.
Always reduce the amount that you feed your plants during the last two weeks of feeding.
If the very tip of the leaves gets yellow it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 – 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.
If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels look out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1 (When in doubt flush them out).
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready. If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.
pH conditions in medium
In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3
In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6
In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 – 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco
Another possibility is damage in the root zone, check for the possibility of root rot, or insect larvae as potential causes for root deterioration, brown, mushy, smelly roots are a good indicator of root damage. Hydrogen peroxide is an efficient way to destroy root rot causing bacteria.
If using the base nutrient stand alone, mix nutrients according to instructions on the bottle.
If also using supplements follow feeding schedule in the nutrient calculator.
When using a re circulating system, you will be dealing with one of two situations, either the reservoir is large enough to feed the plants for a week without the need to be topped up during the week or it is a small reservoir and in order to feed the plants through the week it will require to be topped up.
In case of reservoir that does not need to be topped up.
Add to the reservoir the amount of water that the plants are going to be using for the week, include some extra water to allow for evaporation.
Mix the nutrient solution at 1/6th of the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.
Example: If the plants need 1200 ppm for the week, divide 1200 by 6 and mix the reservoir at 200 – 250 ppm.
Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH
Feed the plants.
Allow the plants to feed on the solution and the pH to rise for 1 1/2 – 2 days before re adjusting the pH.
In case of reservoir that needs to be topped up with water during the week.
Add to reservoir the amount of water that the plants will use in 3 – 3 ½ days.
Mix the nutrient solution at the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.
Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH
Feed the plants
Allow the plants to feed on the solution for 1 1/2 – 2 days, top up with water to the original level first before re adjusting the pH, after adding the water allow solution to sit for an hour and re adjust the pH.
If growing in soil adjust the pH 6.3, in coco 5.8 – 6.0, in hydro 5.6.
When using a re circulating system having the pH rise after you start feeding the plants is a good thing, It means that the plants are up taking nutrient, it is important that it rises the plants up take different nutrients at different pH levels, allow the pH to rise for 1 ½ - 2 days at that point adjust the pH down to 5.6 again
1 gallon = 4 liters (quarts)
1 tsp (teaspoon) = 5 mL
1/2 tsp (teaspoon) = 2.5 mL
1/4 tsp (teaspoon) = 1.25 mL
1 tbsp (tablespoon) = 3 tsp (teaspoon) = 15 mL
We use a 700 ppm/uS/m scale or a 0.7 scale to convert from EC to ppm.
I hope that this is the answer that you are looking for. If you have further questions please contact us via e-mail or by calling our tech support toll free line at 1 800 640 9605 8:00 am – 9:00 pm PST. If line busy or directed to voice mail keep trying.
A.N. Tech Support
that alone is half the reason I bet most are stubbing there toe on.. I got plants bigger than his whole setup in late flower, and im only at 360 ppm... Deep water culture has diff parameters than other forms of hydro... U got to go low or you burn the plants.. See how they are all spindly looking? That is from being over fed. Then when he drops it, he gets cal diff because when he lowers ppm(base) then he doesnt have enough Ca in his base and he needs to add a calimag supplement. I would add 100 ppm of ca, then 200 ppm of base..
that is literally one perfect canopythat alone is half the reason I bet most are stubbing there toe on.. I got plants bigger than his whole setup in late flower, and im only at 360 ppm... Deep water culture has diff parameters than other forms of hydro... U got to go low or you burn the plants.. See how they are all spindly looking? That is from being over fed. Then when he drops it, he gets cal diff because when he lowers ppm(base) then he doesnt have enough Ca in his base and he needs to add a calimag supplement. I would add 100 ppm of ca, then 200 ppm of base..