Small Brown Spots Post Transplant

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Wisher619

Wisher619

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Should I flush the rockwool with plain RO water then feed by hand with 4/4/4? Aren't the nutrients just building up in the rockwool at this point.
I understand your concerns and they are valid
but instead of conversating about it
if you just go and make that gal of feed and measure where it is at
we then will see what we can do

the RW has nothing to do with this
if the plants roots had already breached the RE then the reality is the RW would only cause stem rot being to wet
which you would see because the stem where the RE and stem meet would become weak and break and look rotting

the reason why in a RDWC system, you run low nutrient concentration is for the very reason you just suggested, nutrient buildup
in a system like yours...your plants decide..not a bottle
you feed 400ppm
the next day your solution is at 200ppm....so you bump it up to 500ppm
the next day it is down to 300ppm
so you bump it to 600ppm then it now takes a week to drop it down to 500ppm
that tells you that you have found a good spot...relative to water levels/transpiration
you want to basically have the plants taking in the same amount of water and nutrients....that means that your plant is running correctly
even @200ppm
if your plants are eating, the pom and water will drop
they may look starved but they wont have burnt tips or anything like that
no purple/black stems
they will be nice and green with vibrant bright green growth

Image


should look like this
a pic I just took before I cut all my clones
 
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Shawnery

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What is that raised serrated edge from on the leaves in your pic? Each plant of mine that is growing looks like that.


About 350ppm with 4ml per gallon
 
Wisher619

Wisher619

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313
What is that raised serrated edge from on the leaves in your pic? Each plant of mine that is growing looks like that.


About 350ppm with 4ml per gallon
4ml per gal as in 12ml total
4ml G /4ml M /4ml B?

yeah that is def where you need to be

the serration on my leaves is genetic
as tou see the good green color and huge leaves

serration also means high ec value when the tips are burnt and the plant isnt growing how it should

so if you make up that batch

what I would do is this
get you res down to that ec/ppm number
turn off your air pumps
drop the water level to 2" below net cups
keep the circulation pump going
hand feed your plants once a day
and check your res once a day

once the roots hit the water and start to really take off
turn on the air and get that shit rockin
then the ppm and water levels will start droppin
at that time you will take notice of the drop in ppm every day
and you will then start upping the ppms accordingly...get a notepad or dry erase marker
put it at the res
every day you come in and check it and write it down
that way, no matter how bad tour memory , it is right there, you dont have to guess
once you do it enough you wont need memory as it will become routine
this is how we rehabilitate the cognative impaired!!

so back to feed
once they start eating
you watch the ppm drop
they drop 100
you bump it back up to where it was before and raise 100
if they are @ say 600
you check it and the water has dropped but the ec is now 700
then you drop the ec to 500

very easy

once the plants start eating
you will find
in a system like yours
nutrients become cheap and you can use as expensive as you want
because you shouldnt be going over 400-500 ppm max, ever during the grow
because of the high Disolved Oxygen levels wich really boosts your nutrient uptake

seems maybe difficult but it is very easy
 
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Shawnery

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When I first got my plant they were MUCH taller and grown out then that. The root systems were well grown I as well.

Won't turning the pumps off create anaerobic bacteria since my temperature so high
 
Wisher619

Wisher619

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313
When I first got my plant they were MUCH taller and grown out then that. The root systems were well grown I as well.

Won't turning the pumps off create anaerobic bacteria since my temperature so high
no
if the roots were grown out, where did they go?

there shouldnt be any bacteria at all
with the air turned off
you are still pumping the water through correct or is it not a RDWC
if it is recirculationg
the agitation is enough
this information comes from commercial AGG not my opinion
basically you eant to create a semi static hydroponic sytem until your roots and plant recover
kinda like gearing down and cruising through a turn so to speak
then when the roots and plant pick up it would be that half way point where you lay on the gas and excelerate out of that turn
that would be the point where you really power up tge system and get the air going and all that
 
Wisher619

Wisher619

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313
Halfed it again so know I assume it's around 600ppm but I'm letting it mix before I check it.

Here's s9mething I'm still looking for an answer to.

The three plants that are truly sad have about half the roots as the pic shown above. The 5 plants that are now growing over 8 main stems, maybe part of the problem, and look pretty healthy have ZERO roots.

WHY?!
in this quote you literally state the 5 that look healthy have ZERO roots

again
which is it
they do or they dont?
 
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Shawnery

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163
That was last time I looked. Today there is 1 with one 2 with no roots and 5 with some level of roots.
 
bicky studs

bicky studs

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just catching up...
was tinking..
the plants with the least roots wouldnt be taking up as much hot nutes, thus making the plants with less roots "healthier" looking.
just an idea...
everything wisher is saying makes sense man... even if its not 100% right, which i very much doubt. it'd be a huge leap in the right direction.
keep at it:badboy:
 
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Shawnery

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163
So the minute I go down to 900 ppm's 2 Days Later I have the exact same brown and copper spots. This is without a doubt either a phosphorus deficiency or a Calcium deficiency. Most likely I believe it's a Calcium deficiency. I read that if you're not using Advanced Nutrients pH perfect at full strength you need to add Cal Mag. It's happening on the lowest lease so there is no doubt it's a deficiency.

I have calimagic at home so I want to make a foliar spray for my plants. I figure one that's the quickest way to add calcium and I also don't want to raise my ppm's any higher. Would anybody have a recipe for calimagic foliar spray?

Even though I'm getting some deficiencies again my plants that are growing or growing quite well. I'm actually leaning a lot more towards the positive side of things in the negative.

If you consider the fact that I've top these plants, the ones that are growing, twice and their nail growing about 8 main stems each; they've actually put on quite a few inches of new growth.

Another symptom that could help diagnose this overall issue I'm going through. What causes leaves to be miniature in size?

Last but not least tomorrow I should be receiving my iceprobe thermoelectric aquarium chiller. It has great reviews on Amazon and it's supposed to be able to reduce the temperature anywhere from three to six degrees. I think the trick to keeping the water cool will be having the ice probe turn on as early as possible to keep the solution as cool as possible?

There you go that's my update ramble for the day expect more later cuz I love me some banter!

By the way off subject but if you have Netflix watch the new show altered carbon! If you don't have Netflix the show altered carbon is good enough to justify signing up for Netflix on its own. Sorry again for the off-topic but TV Is My Jam since I'm pretty much permanently disabled.

Later peeps!
 
Wisher619

Wisher619

6,648
313
@Shawnery from AN tech support


Thank you for your inquiry,

The new nutrient calculator is designed to be used with the “pH-ppm perfect Bigger Yields Flowering System.” We have standardized all the base nutrients to 4ml/L and all the supplements to 2ml/L. Certain products have been concentrated while others have been supplemented with more chelates and other components to allow for better absorption and decreased application rates. Having said that, the application times for some of the supplements have changed, to accommodate for the new system.

With that in mind, the new nutrient calculator is designed to be used with the pH-ppm perfect system which has not been launched yet due to a number of delays we had with the label registration processes in certain states. Because of these delays, we still suggest using the old nutrient calculator listed here:


Having said that, the nutrient calculator is still being updated to include a number of components and functions. It is by no means finished and we are working very hard to include the organic line up, rooted clones/seedlings section and the mothers option. We still recommend using the old nutrient calculator while we make this transition and allow access to these items.

If you are applying at the 4ml/L application rate, those amounts should be used for a bigger plant. If your plants are smaller, you should apply considerably less.

I am including a feeding guideline below.

Feeding Guideline

Don’t start feeding nutrients to rooting clones or seedlings such as the 2 part Sensi A & B (Grow) until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new/true leaves.

Until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new (clones)/true (seedlings) leaves feed them only water. You can foliar spray them with 1/4 strength B-52 (1 mL/liter) until then. You can also add 1/4 strength applications of Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice, to the water that you will use in the root zone.

Clones seedlings need high levels of moisture in the medium
(80% -85% is good 100% is too much)

They also like a warmer environment in the root zone 70 F – 80 F.



Entering the Vegetative stage, Use the Rooted Clones / Seedlings schedule in the nutrient calculator for the first two weeks of feeding)

Week 1

At 3 or 4 sets of new leaves mix nutrient solution at 300 ppm

Week 2

Mix nutrient solution at 600 ppm

Switch to Vegetative Stage feeding schedule if you are going to vegetate the plants longer than two weeks, the calculator goes up to another 8 weeks (you don’t need to veg the whole 8 weeks).

Week 3 is Week 1 on the vegetative chart

Mix nutrient solution at 600 - 900 ppm depending on size

Week 4

Mix nutrient solution at 900 -1200 ppm depending on size

Follow chart for additional weeks as required

When entering the Bloom Stage follow the medium feeding strength. (If growing indoors the bloom stage starts when the lights are switched to twelve hours of darkness and twelve hour of light).

Week 1- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1000 ppm
Week 2 - mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 3- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 4- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1600 ppm
Week 5- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 6- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 7- Flush

The nutrient calculator is set for a 7 week strain; it can be customized for plants that require more than 7 weeks to complete their flower stage. Just click add a week.

The amounts suggested in the nutrient calculator are the total nutrient to feed the plant for a whole week, not the amount to give them per feeding.

If you want to give your plants nutrient solution more than once per week, divide the amount (total ppm) for the week by the number of feedings that you want to give them to calculate the ppm per feeding. A light cycle of plain ph adjusted water prior to commencing a new week’s feeding schedule will help prevent lock out conditions.

Plants may increase their over all size up to 2/3, during the bloom stage, for this reason the feeding schedules in the calculator increases the strength of the nutrient solution every week, reaching the highest concentration on the fourth week of bloom. If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7Th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.

Always reduce the amount that you feed your plants during the last two weeks of feeding.

Overfeeding

If the very tip of the leaves gets yellow it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 – 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.

Deficiencies

If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels look out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1 (When in doubt flush them out).
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready. If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.

pH conditions in medium

In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3

In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6

In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 – 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco

Root damage

Another possibility is damage in the root zone, check for the possibility of root rot, or insect larvae as potential causes for root deterioration, brown, mushy, smelly roots are a good indicator of root damage. Hydrogen peroxide is an efficient way to destroy root rot causing bacteria.

Mixing instructions

If using the base nutrient stand alone, mix nutrients according to instructions on the bottle.

If also using supplements follow feeding schedule in the nutrient calculator.

When using a re circulating system, you will be dealing with one of two situations, either the reservoir is large enough to feed the plants for a week without the need to be topped up during the week or it is a small reservoir and in order to feed the plants through the week it will require to be topped up.

In case of reservoir that does not need to be topped up.

Add to the reservoir the amount of water that the plants are going to be using for the week, include some extra water to allow for evaporation.

Mix the nutrient solution at 1/6th of the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.

Example: If the plants need 1200 ppm for the week, divide 1200 by 6 and mix the reservoir at 200 – 250 ppm.

Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH

Feed the plants.

Allow the plants to feed on the solution and the pH to rise for 1 1/2 – 2 days before re adjusting the pH.

In case of reservoir that needs to be topped up with water during the week.

Add to reservoir the amount of water that the plants will use in 3 – 3 ½ days.

Mix the nutrient solution at the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.

Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH

Feed the plants

Allow the plants to feed on the solution for 1 1/2 – 2 days, top up with water to the original level first before re adjusting the pH, after adding the water allow solution to sit for an hour and re adjust the pH.

If growing in soil adjust the pH 6.3, in coco 5.8 – 6.0, in hydro 5.6.

When using a re circulating system having the pH rise after you start feeding the plants is a good thing, It means that the plants are up taking nutrient, it is important that it rises the plants up take different nutrients at different pH levels, allow the pH to rise for 1 ½ - 2 days at that point adjust the pH down to 5.6 again



Measurements:

1 gallon = 4 liters (quarts)
1 tsp (teaspoon) = 5 mL
1/2 tsp (teaspoon) = 2.5 mL
1/4 tsp (teaspoon) = 1.25 mL
1 tbsp (tablespoon) = 3 tsp (teaspoon) = 15 mL
We use a 700 ppm/uS/m scale or a 0.7 scale to convert from EC to ppm.

I hope that this is the answer that you are looking for. If you have further questions please contact us via e-mail or by calling our tech support toll free line at 1 800 640 9605 8:00 am – 9:00 pm PST. If line busy or directed to voice mail keep trying.

A.N. Tech Support
 
S

Shawnery

1,499
163
I know they're not doing great but believe when I say they are night and day compared to a week and a half ago!

First photo is close up of what I believe is a calcium deficiency. The other photos are pics of my best plants. I know they could and should be better but these plants are actually growing pretty well now.

I topped them at week 1 and 2 and these are all growing new stems pretty fast. I assume they're not gaining much height because all the energy going to new stems. Each one has atleast 8 stems now instead of one. Once these take off they are going to be super bushy.

Another good thing is there were a number of new roots just peaking through. I still have two sad ones though but I'll keep hope alive.

Again these spots were a direct response to lowering ppm's. Same spots I had when my ppm's were at 400.
 
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