Something Be Yellowing all my leaves!!!! (pics)

[MilesTeg]

So I've had a slight yellowing issue that has begun to escalate on one of my two girls, they are 3 weeks into flowering just filling out buds rn and all the bottom leaves began to yellow on one of my girls, I picked them off until they began yellowing ABOVE MY SCROG NET, this was very unsettling so i did my research and thought, "Maybe the spider mites have exacted their vengeance and I need to address them". However a few days after that conclusion i think I am wrong, There is not extensive webbing on my dying leaves and merely a dozen mites on the worst leaves. And more keep yellowing. I am concerned and am now turning to online advice, maybe ph? I've been giving nutes at a very mild dose because the soil i'm using is a bit high in nutes however my other plant is not reacting the same way. Pictures are included and any advice is appreciated.
Also, ARE MY WHITE HAIRS BURNING??? THEY BETTER NOT BE
Apologies for the blurry photos

 

[Uno]

I’ve got about 2-3 discolored leaves atm. Almost full 2nd weeks into flower. I believe mine are due to insufficient light in that corner.

 

[MilesTeg]

I’ve got about 2-3 discolored leaves atm. Almost full 2nd weeks into flower. I believe mine are due to insufficient light in that corner.

Oh ya I've def got at least 1-3 yellowing leaves on every branch and i got like 20 branches

 

[az2000]

What are you feeding? How much? Do you let the soil dry between waterings? (how dry?).

I think dropping some lower leaves is normal. It could be inadequate light (what lighting are you using)? The plant is shifting its growth to buds. It may find those lower leaves unproductive, cannibalizes the stored nutrients, and drops them. But, it could also be reducing N too much too soon. Also overwatering (not letting the soil dry enough).

 

[MilesTeg]

What are you feeding? How much? Do you let the soil dry between waterings? (how dry?).

I think dropping some lower leaves is normal. It could be inadequate light (what lighting are you using)? The plant is shifting its growth to buds. It may find those lower leaves unproductive, cannibalizes the stored nutrients, and drops them. But, it could also be reducing N too much too soon. Also overwatering (not letting the soil dry enough).

So I'm Feeding Foxfarm Tiger bloom every other watering, its a 2-8-4 and I do half strength what they recommend, I water every 2-3 days when they soil is dry two knuckles deep, they are small plants only like a foot and a half tall cause we topped so much and scrogged, half gallon of ph'd water every watering, 6.0-6.5. The plant next to her isn't dropping anywhere near as many leaves and on our troubled girl i posted pics of she is dropping leaves only a couple nodes down from the tops, they just keep creeping up. I was gunna wash her soil out today until it hits the ph i want cause she has those burnt tips. Before we water them they usually droop a bit, rarely water when they don't ask for it.

 

[MilesTeg]

What are you feeding? How much? Do you let the soil dry between waterings? (how dry?).

I think dropping some lower leaves is normal. It could be inadequate light (what lighting are you using)? The plant is shifting its growth to buds. It may find those lower leaves unproductive, cannibalizes the stored nutrients, and drops them. But, it could also be reducing N too much too soon. Also overwatering (not letting the soil dry enough).

Oh yea and certainly not inadequate light we have a 400w HPS running with panda film all over the walls they are only 2.5 feet from the light

 

[az2000]

So I'm Feeding Foxfarm Tiger bloom every other watering, its a 2-8-4 and I do half strength what they recommend,

That's probably the problem. TB is meant to be used with the other two bottles. By itself, you're feeding an NPK ratio 1-4-2. That's booster level in my world. I would be feeding a ratio of 1-1.2-2 at your plants' stage of growth. And, if you used all three bottles, you'd be about 1-1.55-1.13 (or 1-2.08-1.41). I think those ratios are too high P. I don't reach 1.5 until mid flower, and finish flower at 2.0.

But, definitely 1-4-2 in early flower is a problem. Not enough N. If you want to see how the Fox Farm schedule works out to NPK ratios, I put it in a PDF here. (<<link). If you're trying to do something simpler than a mutli-bottle "lineup," we could talk about that. It's definitely possible.

Also, if half-strength means 5ml/gal Tiger Bloom, that produces on 127ppm. Aside from the ratio causing much less N, the strength is causing it too. (You can compare that PPM to using the 3 bottles together (the PDF mentioned above).

I water every 2-3 days when they soil is dry two knuckles deep,

I lift the containers to sense how dry they are. I wait till they feel alarmingly light (but 8 hours before the leaves wilt from being too dry. (You have to let them dry to the point of wilting to know what that feels like. I wouldn't recommend doing that in flower. It's a stress, even though the leaves bounce back within 20 minutes of watering.). Maybe it's not possible to lift the containers when scrogging. Maybe you're fine that way,

 

[Beachwalker]

^ everything above and treat the mites too

 

[MilesTeg]

That's probably the problem. TB is meant to be used with the other two bottles. By itself, you're feeding an NPK ratio 1-4-2. That's booster level in my world. I would be feeding a ratio of 1-1.2-2 at your plants' stage of growth. And, if you used all three bottles, you'd be about 1-1.55-1.13 (or 1-2.08-1.41). I think those ratios are too high P. I don't reach 1.5 until mid flower, and finish flower at 2.0.

But, definitely 1-4-2 in early flower is a problem. Not enough N. If you want to see how the Fox Farm schedule works out to NPK ratios, I put it in a PDF here. (<<link). If you're trying to do something simpler than a mutli-bottle "lineup," we could talk about that. It's definitely possible.

Also, if half-strength means 5ml/gal Tiger Bloom, that produces on 127ppm. Aside from the ratio causing much less N, the strength is causing it too. (You can compare that PPM to using the 3 bottles together (the PDF mentioned above).



I lift the containers to sense how dry they are. I wait till they feel alarmingly light (but 8 hours before the leaves wilt from being too dry. (You have to let them dry to the point of wilting to know what that feels like. I wouldn't recommend doing that in flower. It's a stress, even though the leaves bounce back within 20 minutes of watering.). Maybe it's not possible to lift the containers when scrogging. Maybe you're fine that way,

Damn u may just be right, so I do have some general hydroponics 3 bottle lineup but not enough money to buy more nute bottles. I could use flora micro which is 5-0-1 and flora bloom which is 0-5-4, use one part 5-0-1 and 2 parts 0-5-4 and then i'd have 2.5-5-4.5 which i guess is 1-2-1.8. sort of math it to the righ ppm since i don't have a ppm pen lol

 

[MilesTeg]

That's probably the problem. TB is meant to be used with the other two bottles. By itself, you're feeding an NPK ratio 1-4-2. That's booster level in my world. I would be feeding a ratio of 1-1.2-2 at your plants' stage of growth. And, if you used all three bottles, you'd be about 1-1.55-1.13 (or 1-2.08-1.41). I think those ratios are too high P. I don't reach 1.5 until mid flower, and finish flower at 2.0.

But, definitely 1-4-2 in early flower is a problem. Not enough N. If you want to see how the Fox Farm schedule works out to NPK ratios, I put it in a PDF here. (<<link). If you're trying to do something simpler than a mutli-bottle "lineup," we could talk about that. It's definitely possible.

Also, if half-strength means 5ml/gal Tiger Bloom, that produces on 127ppm. Aside from the ratio causing much less N, the strength is causing it too. (You can compare that PPM to using the 3 bottles together (the PDF mentioned above).



I lift the containers to sense how dry they are. I wait till they feel alarmingly light (but 8 hours before the leaves wilt from being too dry. (You have to let them dry to the point of wilting to know what that feels like. I wouldn't recommend doing that in flower. It's a stress, even though the leaves bounce back within 20 minutes of watering.). Maybe it's not possible to lift the containers when scrogging. Maybe you're fine that way,

hmm lemme think about my math and see if i can get my ratio to 1-1.2-2 with what i have

 

[MilesTeg]

That's probably the problem. TB is meant to be used with the other two bottles. By itself, you're feeding an NPK ratio 1-4-2. That's booster level in my world. I would be feeding a ratio of 1-1.2-2 at your plants' stage of growth. And, if you used all three bottles, you'd be about 1-1.55-1.13 (or 1-2.08-1.41). I think those ratios are too high P. I don't reach 1.5 until mid flower, and finish flower at 2.0.

But, definitely 1-4-2 in early flower is a problem. Not enough N. If you want to see how the Fox Farm schedule works out to NPK ratios, I put it in a PDF here. (<<link). If you're trying to do something simpler than a mutli-bottle "lineup," we could talk about that. It's definitely possible.

Also, if half-strength means 5ml/gal Tiger Bloom, that produces on 127ppm. Aside from the ratio causing much less N, the strength is causing it too. (You can compare that PPM to using the 3 bottles together (the PDF mentioned above).



I lift the containers to sense how dry they are. I wait till they feel alarmingly light (but 8 hours before the leaves wilt from being too dry. (You have to let them dry to the point of wilting to know what that feels like. I wouldn't recommend doing that in flower. It's a stress, even though the leaves bounce back within 20 minutes of watering.). Maybe it's not possible to lift the containers when scrogging. Maybe you're fine that way,

Do you think I should wash the soil? Idk im still considering it

 

[az2000]

hmm lemme think about my math and see if i can get my ratio to 1-1.2-2 with what i have

What other products do you have? I use a spreadsheet (<<link) to figure that stuff out. There are many products already in it (they're in a subfolder called "Products").

PS: I wouldn't flush. I don't think the excess P is hurting anythign. It's the lack of N. I you flush, you'll make that worse. If you have fish emulsion, that would be good for the plants right now (if the soil were dry enough).

I've sprayed a dilute household ammonia on the leaves to get N rapidly into the plant. I don't know if that's a good idea. I don't think you're plants are suffering enough for that. (I'd have to look at my notes to see how I diluted it.). You could probably google and find info about that practice. But, I don't think you need to do it.

 

[MilesTeg]

What other products do you have? I use a spreadsheet (<<link) to figure that stuff out. There are many products already in it (they're in a subfolder called "Products").

PS: I wouldn't flush. I don't think the excess P is hurting anythign. It's the lack of N. I you flush, you'll make that worse. If you have fish emulsion, that would be good for the plants right now (if the soil were dry enough).

I've sprayed a dilute household ammonia on the leaves to get N rapidly into the plant. I don't know if that's a good idea. I don't think you're plants are suffering enough for that. (I'd have to look at my notes to see how I diluted it.). You could probably google and find info about that practice. But, I don't think you need to do it.

So I have Floragro, Florabloom, Floramicro, and tigerbloom, these are my only nute bottles.

 

[az2000]

So I have Floragro, Florabloom, Floramicro, and tigerbloom, these are my only nute bottles.

At that link with the schedules, there is also a document with examples of using GH Flora Series 3-part. However, that's a hydro fertilizer. I don't think it's optimal for soil. People use it. It must work. But, I think it's not good for the soil microbes. It treats soil as soilless. I'm not a fan of Fox Farm. But, the three bottles you should be using would be better for soil. They contain organic-sources of nutrients.

If you want to use your FF Tiger Bloom with the GH 3-part, you're getting into uncharted territory. I do this type of thing all the time. To me, nutrients are nutrients. It doesn't matter what product line they come from, or how they were intended to be use with other related bottles. But, I've never done this specifically.

Using the spreadsheet I mentioned,

2ml FF TBloom
2ml GH FGrow
6ml GH FMicro
0ml GH FBloom

Creates NPK ratio 2.5-1-1.59 (314ppm)

That might be good to use once to get a dose of nitrogen into the soil.

===

3ml, 4ml, 3.5ml, 1ml is NPK ratio 1.07-1-1.4 (322ppm)

That would be close to what I do in transition

===

3.5, 5, 3, 2 is NPK ratio 1-1.23-1.66 (365ppm)

I do something like that in early flower.

The ppms are based upon using those amounts in 1 gallon. Those strengths are close to what I do using the products I use.

I recommend monitoring your runoff ppms. That has helped me see when salt-buildup is occurring. If you water for 10-20% runoff, that will help protect against it too. I try to balance strength and runoff to not get salt buildup.


Personally, I would not use GH 3-part in soil. But, people do. So, I assume there's no problem mixing Tiger Bloom with them. I think Pennington Alaska Fish Emulsion would be better to mix with Tiger Bloom. Or, drop all of these bottles and just use MiracleGro "Tomato" (easy to acquire at the local hardware store. A safe 1-1-1.2 ratio all the way through. I've used it and it worked fine.).

 

[Beachwalker]

At that link with the schedules, there is also a document with examples of using GH Flora Series 3-part. However, that's a hydro fertilizer. I don't think it's optimal for soil. People use it. It must work. But, I think it's not good for the soil microbes. It treats soil as soilless. I'm not a fan of Fox Farm. But, the three bottles you should be using would be better for soil. They contain organic-sources of nutrients.

If you want to use your FF Tiger Bloom with the GH 3-part, you're getting into uncharted territory. I do this type of thing all the time. To me, nutrients are nutrients. It doesn't matter what product line they come from, or how they were intended to be use with other related bottles. But, I've never done this specifically.

Using the spreadsheet I mentioned,

2ml FF TBloom
2ml GH FGrow
6ml GH FMicro
0ml GH FBloom

Creates NPK ratio 2.5-1-1.59 (314ppm)

That might be good to use once to get a dose of nitrogen into the soil.

===

3ml, 4ml, 3.5ml, 1ml is NPK ratio 1.07-1-1.4 (322ppm)

That would be close to what I do in transition

===

3.5, 5, 3, 2 is NPK ratio 1-1.23-1.66 (365ppm)

I do something like that in early flower.

The ppms are based upon using those amounts in 1 gallon. Those strengths are close to what I do using the products I use.

I recommend monitoring your runoff ppms. That has helped me see when salt-buildup is occurring. If you water for 10-20% runoff, that will help protect against it too. I try to balance strength and runoff to not get salt buildup.


Personally, I would not use GH 3-part in soil. But, people do. So, I assume there's no problem mixing Tiger Bloom with them. I think Pennington Alaska Fish Emulsion would be better to mix with Tiger Bloom. Or, drop all of these bottles and just use MiracleGro "Tomato" (easy to acquire at the local hardware store. A safe 1-1-1.2 ratio all the way through. I've used it and it worked fine.).

GH Flora 3 part is great for soil, I used it for years with great results, just got too pricey or would still be using it

I would recommend op apply at half strength based on the schedule on back of the bottle, then make adjustments based on how the plants react for best results

Also if you don't treat for the mite issue you may regret it later in the grow, they can hit critical mass quick!

 

[MilesTeg]

GH Flora 3 part is great for soil, I used it for years with great results, just got too pricey or would still be using it

I would recommend op apply at half strength based on the schedule on back of the bottle, then make adjustments based on how the plants react for best results

Also if you don't treat for the mite issue you may regret it later in the grow, they can hit critical mass quick!

So I have attempted to address the mites with a insecticidal soap and reducing temps in grow room and increasing humidity, all by just opening the door and spraying a spray bottle. I always soak my plants top to bottom with the soap when i apply it, but i think i wanna use azamax cause it is less harmful to the plant, do you think that would be a good approach to the mite problem?

 

[MilesTeg]

At that link with the schedules, there is also a document with examples of using GH Flora Series 3-part. However, that's a hydro fertilizer. I don't think it's optimal for soil. People use it. It must work. But, I think it's not good for the soil microbes. It treats soil as soilless. I'm not a fan of Fox Farm. But, the three bottles you should be using would be better for soil. They contain organic-sources of nutrients.

If you want to use your FF Tiger Bloom with the GH 3-part, you're getting into uncharted territory. I do this type of thing all the time. To me, nutrients are nutrients. It doesn't matter what product line they come from, or how they were intended to be use with other related bottles. But, I've never done this specifically.

Using the spreadsheet I mentioned,

2ml FF TBloom
2ml GH FGrow
6ml GH FMicro
0ml GH FBloom

Creates NPK ratio 2.5-1-1.59 (314ppm)

That might be good to use once to get a dose of nitrogen into the soil.

===

3ml, 4ml, 3.5ml, 1ml is NPK ratio 1.07-1-1.4 (322ppm)

That would be close to what I do in transition

===

3.5, 5, 3, 2 is NPK ratio 1-1.23-1.66 (365ppm)

I do something like that in early flower.

The ppms are based upon using those amounts in 1 gallon. Those strengths are close to what I do using the products I use.

I recommend monitoring your runoff ppms. That has helped me see when salt-buildup is occurring. If you water for 10-20% runoff, that will help protect against it too. I try to balance strength and runoff to not get salt buildup.


Personally, I would not use GH 3-part in soil. But, people do. So, I assume there's no problem mixing Tiger Bloom with them. I think Pennington Alaska Fish Emulsion would be better to mix with Tiger Bloom. Or, drop all of these bottles and just use MiracleGro "Tomato" (easy to acquire at the local hardware store. A safe 1-1-1.2 ratio all the way through. I've used it and it worked fine.).

Thank you so much, this has eased my stress having all the info, I have used the GH on soil before so i'm confident there wont be a problem with that, again dude great advice, always come away happy when i get good responses on a forum. GROWING SHROOMIES WAS NOT THE SAME

 

[the rrock]

I would be more concerned with the mites, untreated one day you will wake up with webs coating your buds .And be careful with others advice as there are posters on here that are f'n clueless. Most growers here use way too many nutes,the plant can only ingest so much. If I were you I would get some calmag and Eleanors VF11 and call it good. Ive used VF11 for over 30 years and it does miracles on yellow,stunted and sick plants............your welcome

 

[az2000]

the mite problem?

Do you have mites? (Have you seen them?). I got the impression from your first post that you hadn't seen any.

I have no doubt the GH will work. And, it may indeed be better to follow the GH schedule (instead of trying to leverage the one bottle of soil fertiizer you have). But, soil is soil. I would take every opportunity to feed the microbes. If I wanted to feed GH Flora series, I would do soilless (Pro-Mix HP + more perlite). You can do better in soil leveraging the micobiology which soil is intended to have. (I.e., soilless doesn't work as well with organic sources of nutrients because the medium doesn't promote that kind of rhizozone.).

Nothing's absolute. You can make either work. But, neither is optimal. If you want to grow in soil, I would use all three bottles of Fox Farm instead of GH. (But, even then, there are less expensive and less complicated soil fertilizers that will be as friendly to the microbes, achieve the same NPK ratios.). Something to think about for your next grow.

 

[MilesTeg]

Do you have mites? (Have you seen them?). I got the impression from your first post that you hadn't seen any.

I have no doubt the GH will work. And, it may indeed be better to follow the GH schedule (instead of trying to leverage the one bottle of soil fertiizer you have). But, soil is soil. I would take every opportunity to feed the microbes. If I wanted to feed GH Flora series, I would do soilless (Pro-Mix HP + more perlite). You can do better in soil leveraging the micobiology which soil is intended to have. (I.e., soilless doesn't work as well with organic sources of nutrients because the medium doesn't promote that kind of rhizozone.).

Nothing's absolute. You can make either work. But, neither is optimal. If you want to grow in soil, I would use all three bottles of Fox Farm instead of GH. (But, even then, there are less expensive and less complicated soil fertilizers that will be as friendly to the microbes, achieve the same NPK ratios.). Something to think about for your next grow.

So I do have mites, I see them regularly, one plant is barely touched and one has light bits of webbing where the branches fork out. We are regularly reducing temps and raising humidity as well as spraying insecticidal soap on the plant. planning on getting azamax, do you have suggestions on the mite issue? I didn't think the yellowing was from the mites anymore because they generally have to be a more progressed issue than I have to really kill of leaves like that. But maybe I'm underestimating them