Tea Recipe

outwest · Apr 5, 2012

p.s. - I just gave the girls a nice dose of tea. :D

Capulator · Apr 5, 2012

outwest said:
p.s. - I just gave the girls a nice dose of tea. :D

excellent. Let us know how it goes.

I'm trying to get the "broth" that the lab uses to multiply the specimens. We will see if they give it to me so I can share here.

outwest · Apr 5, 2012

Capulator said:
excellent. Let us know how it goes.
I'm trying to get the "broth" that the lab uses to multiply the specimens. We will see if they give it to me so I can share here.

Dig my sig, so you know how it goes.

outwest

Chrondondalae · Apr 5, 2012

Capulator said:
Wonder why the liquid karma killed my foam? I ran another batch yesterday with no LK, but a little algen. It foamed up pretty good. Just the earthjuice has gotten me the best foam though so far. Next batch Im gonna try some fish emulsion.

i was using fish hydrosolite(GO bio marine) and it knocks the foam down at first, comes back but not as strong. i used to brew all my teas with EJ,Bio Marine, Bioweed and some H16 Prime with great reults. lovin your packs by the way, thanks again!

click80 · Apr 6, 2012

Does anyone know if Earth Juice and OGM Products (i have a bottle of fulvic from them) are the same company?

click80 · Apr 6, 2012

outwest said:
I'm not remotely a biologist, but as I understand it, foam is an indication of good microbial activity in a brew. One of the tea kits I've used indicated as such.

outwest

from a pretty cool website called "the compost junkie": If you notice a foam on the surface of your tea, that's a good thing. The presence of foam means there are free proteins, amino acids or carbohydrates present. If the foaming gets too excessive, you can suppress it using organic surfactants, such as vegetable oil (not olive or canola oil!). Flaxseed oil works well.
http://www.compostjunkie.com/ H

There are some foliaring instructions also on there that are interesting. About UV ray damage, not to use in a sprayer with over 70 psi, not with a big angle on the spray head. I haven't ever verified these instructions, but i have been getting compost info from this site for about a year now and they seem legit. Really eco minded. They do sell shit on there, but hosting a page costs money I guess.

pRiMo303 · Apr 6, 2012

kushtrees said:
I am about to try n make leadsleds vortex brewer, but it is lookin like i wont be able to brew only 1-2 gallons unless i downsize it. if i make a tea with 2 gallons worth of inputs (2 tbsp caps bennies, 50ml molasses, etc), but use 4 gallons of RO water, will diulting it at 2 cups/ 5 gallons, be equivelent to making it in 2 gallons of water diluting at 1 cup/ gallon? Im new with teas and was wondering how if changing its strength and dilution would be that simple. thanks

Im new to the teas as well, but not new to math. In Caps benne tea recipe he says 4tbs of each foliar and root, couple handfuls of EWC, 50-100mL molasses, and then add 4gal RO--dillute 1-2 cups per 10gallons. So, your ratio per gallon is 1 tbs each foliar and root, some EWCs (1/2 handful?), 12.5mL-25mL molasses, add 1 gallon RO. So, your ratio is 1 tbs (each) to 1 gallon water. If you keep the ingredients at the correct raios but double the water, that means youll have to double your dillution. Caps recipe at his strength says 1-2 cups per 10 gallons. Since your tea will be HALF as strong, that means you double the dillution (ie 2-4 cups per 10 gallon..or in your situation, 1-2 cups per 5 gallons).

click80 · Apr 6, 2012

pRiMo303 said:
Im new to the teas as well, but not new to math. In Caps benne tea recipe he says 4tbs of each foliar and root, couple handfuls of EWC, 50-100mL molasses, and then add 4gal RO--dillute 1-2 cups per 10gallons. So, your ratio per gallon is 1 tbs each foliar and root, some EWCs (1/2 handful?), 12.5mL-25mL molasses, add 1 gallon RO. So, your ratio is 1 tbs (each) to 1 gallon water. If you keep the ingredients at the correct raios but double the water, that means youll have to double your dillution. Caps recipe at his strength says 1-2 cups per 10 gallons. Since your tea will be HALF as strong, that means you double the dillution (ie 2-4 cups per 10 gallon..or in your situation, 1-2 cups per 5 gallons).

Math wizards....gotta love 'em. Thanks, saved me the time. Making notes. Keep it coming....lol

pRiMo303 · Apr 6, 2012

Capulator said:
Alfalfa has tricontanol.

I am not sure about oatmeal. I would be scared to throw that in my res... Like cooked oatmeal??? What species of mycelium growing on "baby oatmeal" is beneficial for plants?

The packs have several spp of beneficial fungi already... ones that are tried and true, and compatible with the bacteria in the packs as well.

trash it. best to brew enough tea to use and not keep it.

Per yer ratios for the recipe tea concentrate, how much alfalfa do you add to your 4 gallon brew? Also, Ive attached a link to the page from TEAMING WITH MICROBES that details inoculating your compost/EWC w baby oatmeal. You can view the entire book there, btw.
http://books.google.com/books?id=r3...atmeal+teaming+with+microbes&output=html_text

click80 · Apr 6, 2012

Nice on that link man. Free books are always cool. Love Google.

hey on that compost junkie link above they have something on there about that, it's to pre-grow your fungi? It's from the same book.

http://www.compostjunkie.com/compost-tea-recipe.html

We can't claim this last tip to be our own. It comes from the incredible book,
Teaming with Microbes, by authors, Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis. In it, Lowenfels and Lewis suggest you "give fungi a head start." Since it can be difficult to get fungi to multiple (they do grow in size, just rarely in number) during the compost tea brewing process, the authors recommend growing them prior to the brewing process.
To do this, you'll want to moisten a couple cups of compost (just damp, not dripping wet), and then put it in a light-resistant container. Then grind up some simple proteins (fungal foods), such as oatmeal, and mix them in with the moist compost. Cover partially with a lid, and then place in a warm, dark area. We typically put ours under our sink, or above our fridge in a cupboard. After about 3 days, you'll remove the lid, and find a bunch of fungal myceliathroughout the compost. You can now use this compost to brew your fungal tea.

Capulator · Apr 6, 2012

here is what the manufacturing Dr. says about a food source:

Either: Nutrient broth @ 50 grams per gallon. (nutrient broth is like beef extract and some other shit... look online)..

Or: Glucose @ 40 grams per gallon,coupled with yeast extract powder @ 20 grams per gallon.

He also said that stirring well 2x a day would be sufficient for aeration.

He also said that straight molasses will work just fine.

Capulator · Apr 6, 2012

pRiMo303 said:
Per yer ratios for the recipe tea concentrate, how much alfalfa do you add to your 4 gallon brew? Also, Ive attached a link to the page from TEAMING WITH MICROBES that details inoculating your compost/EWC w baby oatmeal. You can view the entire book there, btw.
http://books.google.com/books?id=r3ZsL47QiVQC&pg=PA157&lpg=PA155&ots=ejprRcWmYe&dq=baby oatmeal teaming with microbes&output=html_text

I add about 1 cup.

click80 · Apr 6, 2012

I like the molasses idea. It's already in a lot of organic stuff anyway...

Capulator · Apr 6, 2012

pRiMo303 said:
Per yer ratios for the recipe tea concentrate, how much alfalfa do you add to your 4 gallon brew? Also, Ive attached a link to the page from TEAMING WITH MICROBES that details inoculating your compost/EWC w baby oatmeal. You can view the entire book there, btw.
http://books.google.com/books?id=r3ZsL47QiVQC&pg=PA157&lpg=PA155&ots=ejprRcWmYe&dq=baby oatmeal teaming with microbes&output=html_text

GREAT READ.

I specifically like the part about not being able to overdue it. I am going to start foliar feeding with straight tea, and no longer worried about using too much makes me really happy.

The manufacturer always told me you cant over due it... but I always err on the side of caution when making recommendations for other peoples gardens and livelihood.

pRiMo303 · Apr 6, 2012

EY

click80 said:
Nice on that link man. Free books are always cool. Love Google.

hey on that compost junkie link above they have something on there about that, it's to pre-grow your fungi? It's from the same book.

http://www.compostjunkie.com/compost-tea-recipe.html

Yes, that is where compostjunkie borrowed the quote.

I dont know if this will help you guys, but per the original recipe @ 2 cups per gallon (why not go w high range-cant hurt em), a gallon will dilute into 80 gallons (8 pints per gallon--dillute 1 pint per 10 gal= 80 gallons). However, I only need 60 gallons at a time (Im in soilless) and dont like a lot of extra. So, for 1 gallon to equal to equal 60 dilluted I use this:
2.25 tsp of each (foliar and root)
9.38-18.75 blackstrap
3/8 handful EWC (youre really guessing at this point)
1 gallon water
I multiply the water 4x so the tea can be oxygenated as much as possible, and therefore add 85oz of tea to 10 gallons of water. I know 16x4 doesnt equal 85 oz, but trust me that this is the correct ratio. If you wanted to go w the low end of the range it would be 42.5oz per 10 gallons.

I hope I didnt confuse anyone, just trying to scale it down a little to help others.

click80 · Apr 6, 2012

Yeah I was going to go balls to the walls with the foliar too on my moms...Hell there will still be plenty to refridgerate and give to a couple friends.

cctt · Apr 6, 2012

If I want to be lazy and only brew a single tea (root+foliar), is there any reason not to use this as a foliar spray as well as root drench? I assume I'd just be wasting some of the root pack.

kushtrees · Apr 6, 2012

Loved the google book Im def ganna start experimenting with less diluted tea thanks for the read

Capulator · Apr 6, 2012

cctt said:
If I want to be lazy and only brew a single tea (root+foliar), is there any reason not to use this as a foliar spray as well as root drench? I assume I'd just be wasting some of the root pack.

I was told to foliar the foliar only, because foliaring with the root would be useless. I think though that you could foliar with the root and foliar out of laziness and there would be no issues whatsoever. The root pack bacteria would just die off, the foliar pack bacteria would attack insects and pm if there are any, and the photosynthetic bacteria in both would be helpful regardless.

click80 · Apr 7, 2012

I wonder after keeping the tea in the fridge you can throw a little food in it and bubble for a few hours before watering to reinvigorate the bacteria.

Tea Recipe

Tea Recipe

outwest

Premium Gardener

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

outwest

Premium Gardener

Chrondondalae

click80

click80

pRiMo303

click80

pRiMo303

click80

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

click80

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

pRiMo303

click80

cctt

kushtrees

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

click80

Tea Recipe

Tea Recipe

outwest

Premium Gardener

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

outwest

Premium Gardener

Chrondondalae

click80

click80

pRiMo303

click80

pRiMo303

click80

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

click80

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

pRiMo303

click80

cctt

kushtrees

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

click80

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency