Triacontanol

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Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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God bless Guano and all the information he shares. Taught me quite a lot about root aphids, found so much information I felt like a git in comparison.
 
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johndeere

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I would love to hear some results from the general on his expeiment as I started an almost identical experiment last night. Mine went: 3 feeds Feed 1 8oz alfalfa tea to a gallon of water. feed 2 16 oz alf to a gallon and feed 3 50/50 alf tea and water. Tea recipe was approximately 3 gallons water 4 handfuls alfalfa pellets 3 dollops of mollasses , couple dollops fish poo, and a splash of leftovers from a co2 ferment, mixed up bubbled 24 hours and voila. The recipe was a short order cooks concoction basically but the usage is controlled among 3 groups. I'll report back on the results.
 
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1971

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care to share about root aphids? never had them, but what is a good preventive measure?
 
J

johndeere

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I read a university study that said bounce "outdoor fresh" fabric sheets sent em runnin.
 
general_sketch

general_sketch

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I would love to hear some results from the general on his expeiment as I started an almost identical experiment last night.

I have a bad habit of all together forgetting about threads I've posted in. I just don't visit often enough to keep up and even then, I am terrible at keeping track of where I posted. Case in point.

How did your experiment go, JohnDeere? No complaints it appears?

As for my own, it went well and alfalfa use is now standard practice in my garden. Primary use is as a soil amendment for both veg & flowering mixes. Very significant results came from this addition.

The last time I experienced such a significant difference from crop to crop was when I switched from feeding a base peat mix compost teas to amending the base mix directly with food sources. Yields skyrocketed from that change. Similar results, though not as dramatic, were witnessed by introducing alfalfa meal into the soil mix.

Soil drench via compost teas/nutrient teas are now reserved for micro-life stimulants and boosts. They are not sufficient as the only mode of feeding, much to my dismay. The difference in yields alone is staggering. That said, they are instrumental in addition to a well built, living soil. Striking the right balance between foliar applications, soil drenches and soil amendments is a beautiful thing.
 
leadsled

leadsled

GrowRU
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FYI, triacontanol is in GreenPlanet's "Massive". Did not find an ingredients list on their site but I'm sure the info is out there. The link is to a photo of the product. I have samples on the way; going to give their lineup a run in a hydro system.
Same with there finisher product. combine them for the best results. imho best to not start the triacontanol until the stretch is done.

I found adding strain triacontanol last 2-3 weeks add some weight. I see alot of new calyx growth once I add triacontanol product. (boost, final bloom, massive/finisher) Some white pistils will appear like so... All those calyxs with white pistils grew last 2 weeks before flush. Def add some weight. Have noticed the same boost in veg with alfalfa aact, but have not tried it during flowering.

pg.jpg
 
MendoCruz

MendoCruz

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I use Massive from Green Planet for my triacontanol source. It also contains Humics/fulvic, aminos, a slight pk boost, gibberellins, and a lilttle bit of molasses. I ran H&G without most of their additives this run, only using massive and pure flower, with a touch of dark energy, and finished with moab and things came out big and dank.
 
Skybound

Skybound

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Sorry for kicking a dead horse, but I'm researching how to mix Triacontanol. I ordered 25 grams of it and already got the Polysorbate 20. I read about Triacontanol from ScienceInHydroponics (Daniel Fernandez) which comes what, 6 years after the last post on this thread, yet was still 2 years ago for me now. I'm looking for the proper way to dilute it into the polysorbate so that I can then add it into a foliar spray. I see this thread started out with growers trying to reverse engineer various products that uses Triacontanol, but then everyone switched to talking about alfalfa. My hope is that someone can tell me how to mix it, or help me with better search terminology.

TYIA
 
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Burned Haze

Guest
Great source is grow more jump start

* It’s only 1ml ( 1ml foliar too) per gal through grow cycle, 1/4 ml per gal when seedlings /clones!. I’ve tried a few brands but this specific version def highlights as most triacontanol and straight to triacontanol source ( unlike so many name brands like an or heavy 16 and they give ya 00000.1% and act like it’s magic and hide it in their msds/manual ) what I look at is concentration and how it works/results ( I’m on my 3rd 1 gal bottle of it’s jump stay and I would def say it’s worth it for drench and foliar )

* Just stop using at week 6 cause at ending flower for w/e reasons makes your buds shoot some goofy shoots or add unwanted cosmetic things anyway one wants. Easily preventable and un-needed then I guess .

* Here’s a old thread for jump start ( it’s funny cause a lot of people don’t know who grow more /Mendocino brand is, but they are bigger or user more than AN in many ways, just not sold in hydro stores much, at least the dry amend)
 
K

Kot

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Sorry for kicking a dead horse, but I'm researching how to mix Triacontanol. I ordered 25 grams of it and already got the Polysorbate 20. I read about Triacontanol from ScienceInHydroponics (Daniel Fernandez) which comes what, 6 years after the last post on this thread, yet was still 2 years ago for me now. I'm looking for the proper way to dilute it into the polysorbate so that I can then add it into a foliar spray. I see this thread started out with growers trying to reverse engineer various products that uses Triacontanol, but then everyone switched to talking about alfalfa. My hope is that someone can tell me how to mix it, or help me with better search terminology.

TYIA
It very hard to dissolve it. One method is to put the powder and polysorbate into test-tube/-glass and heat it with lighter. Another method is in a microwave. I bought supposedly water soluble triacontanol but I don't think it it dissolves 100%.

The best product is called Nutri-Stim Triacontanol™ from Australia but it is expensive.
 
Skybound

Skybound

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I ordered off Amazon, the brand is called PowerGrown, the concentration is 99.2%, I got 25 grams and it cost $50 before shipping. Shortly after digging up this thread, I found another thread on a UK weed forum that's so far a great read. As soon as I finish reading that dialogue, I'll read the JumpStart thread as one can never be too informed about a topic, and it seems this topic has several attractive tangents. While researching terms found in that thread, I actually found PowerGrown's website and holy shit, they have EVERYTHING, and for cheaper than I paid. Sadly, I don't see the 99.2% Triacontanol, but they have all the other desired hormones and PGRs, so I will likely be ordering like 3 more things, but I do wish to get the Tria mixed up and into a spray bottle. Thank @Kot for the suggestion of heating the polysorbate. Do you think a double boiler would work? open flames deposit carbon on things like beakers then the heat doesn't transfer as desired.

Can I get some suggestions for how much polysorbate to mix with how much Tria? I can do the math, but there's a great chance I'd screw it up and I don't want to risk a toxic dose, especially if someone already did the math.

Also looking for suggestions for application frequencies as well as doses. Do you just mist a leaf or two, do you drench all leaves after lights out? Any and everything you can share will put me in a beter spot. Thanks in advance!

Edit - I posted links to the thread I'm reading, plus the site for PowerGrown, but because I'm a new member here, it required moderator approval, so I just removed the links to get my post up.
 
K

Kot

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It's not well studied so there is only guidelines and not a lot of people use PGRs. For tria it is from from one to 25 PPM. Spray them good just as with any other stuff. The best time is 30 minutes before the lights go on and preferably the RH should be very high, around 80%. For 25 PPM you need 0.025 grams into 1 liter of water. Add just a little polysorbate. It's very hard, no idea if I've done it properly because it becomes like glue very fast and you can't know if it dissolved into the one liter water.

Forgot to mention you must check the PH of the final product. It must be over 7.
 
Skybound

Skybound

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It's not well studied so there is only guidelines and not a lot of people use PGRs. For tria it is from from one to 25 PPM. Spray them good just as with any other stuff. The best time is 30 minutes before the lights go on and preferably the RH should be very high, around 80%. For 25 PPM you need 0.025 grams into 1 liter of water. Add just a little polysorbate. It's very hard, no idea if I've done it properly because it becomes like glue very fast and you can't know if it dissolved into the one liter water.

Forgot to mention you must check the PH of the final product. It must be over 7.

I remember reading that somewhere about the PH, but I can't control room RH, so I hope that's not critical. 0.025 grams is a tall order for a hobbyist scale so looks like I'll have to multiply the volume. Am I overthinking by assuming I need a specific volume of polysorbate to mix the Tria into as it's just a vehicle and the water is the only volume that really matters in the math, right?

Do you spray every week, every other week or just once at week 4?
 
K

Kot

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I remember reading that somewhere about the PH, but I can't control room RH, so I hope that's not critical. 0.025 grams is a tall order for a hobbyist scale so looks like I'll have to multiply the volume. Am I overthinking by assuming I need a specific volume of polysorbate to mix the Tria into as it's just a vehicle and the water is the only volume that really matters in the math, right?

Do you spray every week, every other week or just once at week 4?
The water volume matters. Put as little polysorbate as possible. If you imagine a normal test-tube/-glass I was adding around 1 centimeter of polysorbate.

It says to spray every two weeks. I am spraying from veg trough 2 weeks before harvest.
 
Skybound

Skybound

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One final question;

Do you mix anything else into the foliar or "can" you mix anything else in, like fulvic/humic, kelp, seaweed, yucca, calcium supplements etc? Or is the PGR something you want to mix all by itself?
 
GYOweed

GYOweed

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It's a wax, you emulsify it in poly 20 and heat then add to ro or distilled.

Ph doesn't matter at low ppms under 100 usually. The leaves balance it.
 
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