Seamaiden
Living dead girl
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God bless Guano and all the information he shares. Taught me quite a lot about root aphids, found so much information I felt like a git in comparison.
I would love to hear some results from the general on his expeiment as I started an almost identical experiment last night.
Same with there finisher product. combine them for the best results. imho best to not start the triacontanol until the stretch is done.FYI, triacontanol is in GreenPlanet's "Massive". Did not find an ingredients list on their site but I'm sure the info is out there. The link is to a photo of the product. I have samples on the way; going to give their lineup a run in a hydro system.
It very hard to dissolve it. One method is to put the powder and polysorbate into test-tube/-glass and heat it with lighter. Another method is in a microwave. I bought supposedly water soluble triacontanol but I don't think it it dissolves 100%.Sorry for kicking a dead horse, but I'm researching how to mix Triacontanol. I ordered 25 grams of it and already got the Polysorbate 20. I read about Triacontanol from ScienceInHydroponics (Daniel Fernandez) which comes what, 6 years after the last post on this thread, yet was still 2 years ago for me now. I'm looking for the proper way to dilute it into the polysorbate so that I can then add it into a foliar spray. I see this thread started out with growers trying to reverse engineer various products that uses Triacontanol, but then everyone switched to talking about alfalfa. My hope is that someone can tell me how to mix it, or help me with better search terminology.
TYIA
It's not well studied so there is only guidelines and not a lot of people use PGRs. For tria it is from from one to 25 PPM. Spray them good just as with any other stuff. The best time is 30 minutes before the lights go on and preferably the RH should be very high, around 80%. For 25 PPM you need 0.025 grams into 1 liter of water. Add just a little polysorbate. It's very hard, no idea if I've done it properly because it becomes like glue very fast and you can't know if it dissolved into the one liter water.
Forgot to mention you must check the PH of the final product. It must be over 7.
The water volume matters. Put as little polysorbate as possible. If you imagine a normal test-tube/-glass I was adding around 1 centimeter of polysorbate.I remember reading that somewhere about the PH, but I can't control room RH, so I hope that's not critical. 0.025 grams is a tall order for a hobbyist scale so looks like I'll have to multiply the volume. Am I overthinking by assuming I need a specific volume of polysorbate to mix the Tria into as it's just a vehicle and the water is the only volume that really matters in the math, right?
Do you spray every week, every other week or just once at week 4?