UC 4XL Scrog in Double Lid Under 1000W

[Th3Jungl3Boy]

Flower, Day 35

On Saturday night I decided to flush it and start over with fresh nutrients and taking better measurements, as I truly believe that I have been fucking this up!
Thanks to Shady for have nicely lecture me how to pay more attention on the nutrients top off, as I'm guessing the plants were suffering of nutrients locked up, caused by N overdose, I remember to add 120ml of Micro and it alone raised the PPM from 80 to 320:worried
I will keep the PPM ranging 500/600 during this week until see the plants getting better.
Any of you guys have ever used, or uses CAL-MAG? What's your opinion about the product? I have a full bottle and I was wondering if I should use it this week, but I read few threads where some farmers don't use it at all during flower and others does, some only uses it all the way through the flowering process but except for the last seven days.

Water PH was 7.0 and PPM 130
Micro 50ml - PPM 290
Silica 60ml - PPM 290
A+B 200ml - PPM 520
ADD .27 45ml PPM 540
Drip Clean 15ml PPM 540
Sweet 30ml PPM 570
Roots Excel 45ml PPM 570

Theses photos were taken Saturday night. I was trying to get better shots of the damaged one so you guys take better conclusions.
I will take few more tonight with my brother's camera and post later on.
Thanks all!
Peace .'.

 

[BrazilianShark]

I've never used cal-mag but a friend of mine has been using and are having great results, give a shot!!!!
Nice job by the way.

 

[Shady]

If you were using RO, I would stop using CalMag at the beginning of week 6 for a ten week strain... Especially since DM Gold seems to have enough N, Ca, and Mg at stronger dosages. Also you shouldn't need much CalMag with tap water starting at 130 PPM @ 0.5 conversion to EC. Either way, I'd really love to see some lights out shots with the camera flash on for accurate colors... If your camera has a custom White Balance setting, you can adjust it to the HPS and remove the yellow cast off... :cool

P.S. I wouldn't use Roots Excelurator past week 4 of bloom, but others may have a different opinion...

 

[St3ve]

I didn't see anyone mention it but i think the bio balls are a great option. I used them in my saltwater tanks for bennies and they work great and last forever.

There are some cheap places on ebay you can get a big box of black ones on the cheap.

I run them in my netpots because of breath-ability over hydroton. I love them.

Good luck

 

[Th3Jungl3Boy]

If you were using RO, I would stop using CalMag at the beginning of week 6 for a ten week strain... Especially since DM Gold seems to have enough N, Ca, and Mg at stronger dosages. Also you shouldn't need much CalMag with tap water starting at 130 PPM @ 0.5 conversion to EC. Either way, I'd really love to see some lights out shots with the camera flash on for accurate colors... If your camera has a custom White Balance setting, you can adjust it to the HPS and remove the yellow cast off... :cool

P.S. I wouldn't use Roots Excelurator past week 4 of bloom, but others may have a different opinion...

Hi Shady!
Thanks for being so helpful!
I am not using tap water. The water PPM was at 130 because when the system was flushed it still leaving a little bit of the old water, which increases the PPM.
I'm trying to figure out how to change the camera settings to HPS but I guess my camera doesn't have this option. When I go to functions, I have:
Auto, Day Light, Cloudy, Tungsten, Fluorescent, Fluorescent H and Custom. I'll buy a better camera if everything goes well after :harvest:
To be honest I wasn't sure if I should keep using Roots Excel, but I did :(
What could possible go wrong using RE after week 4?

 

[Th3Jungl3Boy]

I've never used cal-mag but a friend of mine has been using and are having great results, give a shot!!!!
Nice job by the way.

I already use it yesterday after read many threads where many farmers has been using it all the way through harvest.
Thanks for the compliments

 

[RMCG]

Hi Shady!
Thanks for being so helpful!
I am not using tap water. The water PPM was at 130 because when the system was flushed it still leaving a little bit of the old water, which increases the PPM.
I'm trying to figure out how to change the camera settings to HPS but I guess my camera doesn't have this option. When I go to functions, I have:
Auto, Day Light, Cloudy, Tungsten, Fluorescent, Fluorescent H and Custom. I'll buy a better camera if everything goes well after :harvest:
To be honest I wasn't sure if I should keep using Roots Excel, but I did :(
What could possible go wrong using RE after week 4?

Re - Camera Settings.


'Custom' is what you want. Usually you will take a piece of white paper, and to set it up you snap a pic of it under your HPS lighting and that will 'set' your white balance and save the setting. Then anytime you are going to snap pix of your girls, set it to custom and it will remove the orange hue.


RE - No problems using it past week 4, other than the expense of it. Roots don't grow much past week 3 of bloom as the plant uses its energy for flowers.

 

[Th3Jungl3Boy]

Re - Camera Settings.


'Custom' is what you want. Usually you will take a piece of white paper, and to set it up you snap a pic of it under your HPS lighting and that will 'set' your white balance and save the setting. Then anytime you are going to snap pix of your girls, set it to custom and it will remove the orange hue.


RE - No problems using it past week 4, other than the expense of it. Roots don't grow much past week 3 of bloom as the plant uses its energy for flowers.

Thanks a lot RMCG!!!
I have another problem:worried
I thought the shooting powder should be used in the last 4 weeks, and I was wrong, again! Checking the H&G nutrient calculator website I found that it should be used in the last 3 weeks, and I already added it yesterday, beginning of week 5, planing to use until week 9. Do you think that using the product for a 1 more week would cause problems? I really don't wanna flush it again :mad0233:

 

[Th3Jungl3Boy]

I didn't see anyone mention it but i think the bio balls are a great option. I used them in my saltwater tanks for bennies and they work great and last forever.

There are some cheap places on ebay you can get a big box of black ones on the cheap.

I run them in my netpots because of breath-ability over hydroton. I love them.

Good luck

I already bought the bio-balls but I need make my own Canister Filter or buy one.
Did you make your own?
Thanks St3ve

 

[St3ve]

nah I don't use them in a canister filter. I just prefer them to any other media for the netpots. They last forever and they breathe easy for good o2.

If I was going to do a biofilter, I would just get an extra bucket plumbed next to the epicenter and fill it with bioballs. Toss a little pump in to the epi and you're good to go. I would raise the "biobucket" up so it gets only half water and half air (similar to a wet/dry trickle filter) and be good to go.

Actually now that we're talking about it.. it seems that the epicenter would be a great place to make a filter. Just have to figure out the autotop off ..

 

[Th3Jungl3Boy]

nah I don't use them in a canister filter. I just prefer them to any other media for the netpots. They last forever and they breathe easy for good o2.

If I was going to do a biofilter, I would just get an extra bucket plumbed next to the epicenter and fill it with bioballs. Toss a little pump in to the epi and you're good to go. I would raise the "biobucket" up so it gets only half water and half air (similar to a wet/dry trickle filter) and be good to go.

Actually now that we're talking about it.. it seems that the epicenter would be a great place to make a filter. Just have to figure out the autotop off ..

That's exactly what I was planing to make, just a simple plastic container to hold the bioballs, like this one in the photo.

 

[RMCG]

Design is sort of flawed.

Google 'Skippy Filters'.

 

[Th3Jungl3Boy]

Flower, Day 36


Well guys,
I had mentioned this morning that I would not flush, but I did. I was feeling bad to loose a crop because I was feeling lazy to go buy water and do everything again, but it's good so I can learn to pay more attention :anim_09:
I didn't use only RO water, used 20 gallons of RO and 10 gallons of tap water.


Here is the DM Nutrient Calculator recommendation for week 5:

DM A + B 439ml
ADD .27 454ml
Silica 75ml
Micro 320ml
Cal-Mag 400ml
Sweet 600ml

This is the results of RO water and tap water mixed, also what I added:

Ph was 7.8 PPM 370

Micro 30ml PPM 440
ADD .27 60ml PPM 470 PH 7.4
Sweet 30ml PPM 470 PH 7.4
Drip Clean 15ml PPM 470 PH 7.4
Cal-Mag 50ml PPM 560 PH 7.3
DM A+B 270ml PPM 930 PH 930

I had to add 4 more gallons of RO water as the level was kind low, dropping PPM to 850 and PH to 6.8, being adjusted to 5.8.
Plants are looking totally fine, just few burnt leaves but everything else are looking awesome!
The weather is getting warmer this week and will continue for now on so I decided to open the window again that I had to closed few weeks ago because was raising ridiculously the rH in the room. Room is much cooler and I don't need to be running AC yet, the only problem is not being able to run CO2, but I can't afford it now anyways :)
I tried to take better photos using my camcorder with wide angle but there's no flash, it sucks! Took some with my old one that looks much better, but the ones with wide angle was just to give you guys an idea how tiny is my place :banana1sv6:

 

[Shady]

Now that's some beautiful bud shots! The girls look like they're about to pack on weight... :cool

 

[St3ve]

Yep jungleboy, thats exactly what I mean. Only thing I would add to that pic of yours is a drip plate to spread the water/aeration out a little pit.

Nice updated pix mang, looks good.

RMCG, what design is flawed?

 

[RMCG]

Yep jungleboy, thats exactly what I mean. Only thing I would add to that pic of yours is a drip plate to spread the water/aeration out a little pit.

Nice updated pix mang, looks good.

RMCG, what design is flawed?

'Trickle' filters aren't as efficient as submerged media filtration (canister type). Even with spray wand or some other diffuser, they are better at aerating than filtering.

 

[St3ve]

'Trickle' filters aren't as efficient as submerged media filtration (canister type). Even with spray wand or some other diffuser, they are better at aerating than filtering.

hmm.. well I'm not sure what to say. My experience with them in the saltwater world tells me the exact opposite. In fact, the part of the filter that is NOT submerged (is getting the constant rain of water from the drip plate) is far more efficient in the breeding of bennies.

BUT as I said, I'm not 100% sure on how that translates into this world so I have no experience with it. Do you have real world experience with the two types of filters in this application?

 

[RMCG]

Fluidized beds offer the advantage of more surface area for beneficials, plus mechanical filtration (if necessary).

While the Wet/Dry type is GREAT for beneficial growth, you need a really big filter (long and wide) for more media ~above the water~ where the biomat will grow.

 

[Th3Jungl3Boy]

Flower, Day 39


What's up guys!
A short update and help is wanted!
I have been using 1/4 of nutrients strength or a little bit more since the beginning and since 2 weeks ago I have been noticing small growth. Yesterday night I noticed many green light leaves, but pretty much in all Chemdog. I know I should start seeing it as they're using all N to produce flower, but I'm wondering if I could be possible not using enough N-P-K. For example, the nutrient calculator suggests 439ml of each, A-B, and in the last flush I only used 270ml of both.
3 plants "Chemdog" are not producing decent buds, instead, the plant is growing super tall with deformed leaves, super long petiole and all twisted, also they're producing little ugly kind dried bud shit.
I Just added 85ml of each part, A-B, and 30mlof Micro raising the PPM to 1190, but my water had 380 PPM.
Well, I was reading more about what could possible be causing this when I found another article pretty much telling what I should have done.

If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it’s a nitrogen deficiency.
Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. This process is completely normal and just let the plant naturally yellow out as it uses it's stored nutrients. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT not use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them.


Plants are not looking horrible, but definitely not how they should be. I am worried about taking too long to fix it and lose even more of the production or the worse, the plants!
I took some shots and circled the damaged or weird spots that I found so you guys can analyze and help me out.
Thanks for all the information you guys have been providing to me :lock:

 

[RMCG]

1190ppm is too hot.

What micro did you add? Have you added any additional Cal/Mag too?

I see tip burning so you are pushing them.

The lime green growing tips could be Mg deficiency (probably from lockout/overfert), tall plants could be K deficiency from high ppm/salinity.

P can 'fall out' if you have too much Ca in the mix.

Are your leaves reverting to less blades per leaf as well as being 'deformed'? Some of the shots look like it could be reverting to veg. Any light interruptions?

I've hit plants too hard with high P-K too soon and it reduces/stops/limits flowering.

Personally, I would empty the res, flush and refill with much lower nutes.

Recalibrate your meters at the same time.