Using Perfect PH from Advanced Nutrients. My ph is 7.7

Burned Haze · Jul 17, 2019

Add 90% r/o + uv ( makes water last 14-21 days+, waters dirty with pathogens from the start , most people don’t have water chillers so it’s not under 70f and organic fert tea is asking for bad pathogens .. and even if your a soil grower water is your main source for success ) + 10% tap or 100% r/o ( benefit of 10% tap added : not only do you get some of your metals your lacking from your tap but your adding efficiency/removing gallons off your membrane and filter replacement schedules without any notice/issue )

Fuck “ ph perfect”

Use dry amendment and cheaper ways of, don’t let your money get wasted in the label and fake bs where they can’t even explain why it works. I wanna see the npk and what’s it’s deprived from/ % score’s lol )

Aqua Man · Jul 17, 2019

Burned Haze said:
Add 90% r/o + uv ( makes water last 14-21 days+, waters dirty with pathogens from the start , raise the temps and add organics? and even if your a soil grower water is your main source for success ) + 10% tap or 100% r/o ( not only do you get some of your metals your lacking from your tap but your adding efficiency/removing gallons off your membrane and filter replacement schedules without any notice/issue )

Fuck “ ph perfect”

Use dry amendment and cheaper ways of, don’t let your money get wasted in the label and fake bs where they can’t even explain why it works. I wanna see the npk and what’s it’s deprived from/ % score’s lol )

Agreed. If I remember right I think uvc can cause iron? Or some micros to fall out of a solution but I believe it's very minimal. This is only if I am remembering from about 15 yrs ago. It's a crap shoot whether this is accurate info so I wouldn't put to much faith in it.

Aqua Man · Jul 17, 2019

Ok I'm special today .. your talking about treating it before mixing nutes. Lol to much fish tank talk from me. People used to run them on tanks to kill pythium and cyanobacteria. Works amazing 3 days and gone. But so was any good bacteria

sshz · Jul 17, 2019

The probes only go bad IF you let them sit in plain, clean R.O. water. If there's enough ppm in there to be near100 ppm, you'll be fine as mine has lasted over 3+ years so far. So, I always make sure to leave some fertilized water in my container- add more water, than more fertilizer.

chuey316 · Jul 17, 2019

Burned Haze said:
Add 90% r/o + uv ( makes water last 14-21 days+, waters dirty with pathogens from the start , most people don’t have water chillers so it’s not under 70f and organic fert tea is asking for bad pathogens .. and even if your a soil grower water is your main source for success )

Like an aquarium submersible light, or an inline filter? I would guess an inline. I don't think the roots would like it in the soup with them, right?

Burned Haze said:
Fuck “ ph perfect”

Use dry amendment and cheaper ways of, don’t let your money get wasted in the label and fake bs where they can’t even explain why it works. I wanna see the npk and what’s it’s deprived from/ % score’s lol )

That will be the plan after this grow. Something adjustable, and cheaper. However, I already have it, and I was looking for the most automated system as possible for my 1st hydro grow, since I'm working long hours, and have allot on my plate right now. Plus I'm running very short on meds, and didn't want to use this grow as a guinea pig, but something that would not require having to do constant adjustments. Less chance for me to screw it up.lol Once I have enough meds to be able to take a chance on a bad yield in order to learn more, I'll definitely be moving to something I can control.

This wasn't meant to be a Perfect PH alternative thread, but a Perfect PH dwc tips/issues/solutions thread ect. Thank you for the input though, it is appreciated. Same for anyone else who gave any input on other nutes as well.

I was really only expecting a few replies, and this is shaping up to be a pretty informative thread. It's helping me for sure. Hopefully it can help others who may stumble across it searching for a similar issue.

chuey316 · Jul 17, 2019

Still a little worried about the jungle wreck. Am I just being impatient? Transplanted on 7/14, ph problem on 7/15 due to the tap water, started drooping 7/15, refilled with RO on 7/16, drooping a bit more today on 7/17.

Aqua Man · Jul 18, 2019

She is gonna need a few days from transplant shock and all the changes. Since it's not in any starter like rockwool or jiffy pellets you can use a cup and just pour some of your nutrient solution over from the top a few times a day if ya can. After the roots get going you will want to rinse from the top with RO to rise out nutrients a couple times. I would suggest buying clients in rockwool or rapid rooters or jiffy pellets in the future and avoid dirt

chuey316 · Jul 18, 2019

Thanks. I put in 2 more a large cylinder stones, and top watered last night. I'll water again tonight.

chuey316 · Jul 18, 2019

Just got home and checked on the ladies. The Cookies Kush is showing some new root growth. The jungle wreck that I was worried about however, has a whole lot of new beautiful fuzzy white root growth.

Chevy Chaze · Jul 19, 2019

chuey316 said:
Mixed everything per the instructions, and my ph is at 7.7. I adjusted my ph down to around 6.2 last night, and when I checked a few minutes ago, it's back to 7.7 again. I'm getting allot of yellowing on one of my girls. Any advice?

Your using your hot tap or the bathroom taps '~' Always use the downstairs cold tap only !! & It will fix your future projects. Every
Tap in the house will show the same ph 7.8 even the downstairs cold tap !! But 24/48 hours out of the cold tap (chlorine dissipates)
& The one from the cold tap will drop to 7.0 & Taken to 5.8 with ph perfect nutes (GHE better less salt build & Suited to each stage)
But sadly chances are there's so much sodium in the pot now it needs transplanting (Unless hydro wipe the buckets '-') You will also
See big white rings where the water has been sat & This is the sodium '~' (Smells like sweaty arse crack '~') & Alot of salt build up '~'
Where the plants have not been able to eat the food (As it's at the wrong PH) & It's just built up over time becoming ?? Dangerous !!
Good luck hope this helps (Know it will !! I made the same mistake starting out '~') GHE 3 pt needs nothing else cal-mag, boosts etc
(As Micro is cal-mag !! Some put their calcium in the micro magnesium in the bloom) & GHE (Flora) 3 part just use it as the label says
Always 5.8/6.0 '-' & Huge dripping results !! I'd never go back to any other nutes !! Only Advanced Hydroponics of Holland compare
Ps. You should also see big dirty brown spots on some of the leaves ?? This is sodium/salt burns & The first sign something is wrong.

Aqua Man · Jul 19, 2019

Chevy Chaze said:
Your using your hot tap or the bathroom taps '~' Always use the downstairs cold tap only !! & It will fix your future projects. Every
Tap in the house will show the same ph 7.8 even the downstairs cold tap !! But 24/48 hours out of the cold tap (chlorine dissipates)
& The one from the cold tap will drop to 7.0 & Taken to 5.8 with ph perfect nutes (GHE better less salt build & Suited to each stage)
But sadly chances are there's so much sodium in the pot now it needs transplanting into a new medium & A new pot '~' You will also
See big white rings where the water has been sat & This is the sodium '~' (Smells like sweaty arse crack '~') & Alot of salt build up '~'
Where the plants have not been able to eat the food (As it's at the wrong PH) & It's just built up over time becoming ?? Poisonous !!
Good luck hope this helps (Know it will !! I made the same mistake starting out '~') GHE 3 pt needs nothing else cal-mag, boosts etc
(As Micro is cal-mag !! Some put the calcium in the micro magnesium in the bloom) & GHE 3 (Flora) 3 part just use it as it's label says
Always 5.8/6.0 '-' & Huge dripping results !! I'd never go back to any other nutes !! Only Advanced Hydroponics of Holland compare
Ps. You should also see big dirty brown spots on some of the leaves ?? This is sodium/salt burns & The first sign something is wrong.

These have only been in hydro for 5 days. And he is now using RO water for the last 2-3 days. The waterline was only high for 1-2 days.

It was simply some adjustments needed to prevent future or ongoing issues. It's expected to have some transplanted shock and I would agree with you if this was over a longer period of time with no signs of improvement but that's not the case.

Chevy Chaze · Jul 19, 2019

Aqua Man said:
These have only been in hydro for 5 days. And he is now using RO water for the last 2-3 days. The waterline was only high for 1-2 days.

It was simply some adjustments needed to prevent future or ongoing issues. It's expected to have some transplanted shock and I would agree with you if this was over a longer period of time with no signs of improvement but that's not the case.

Ok only trying to help `-' & I only read the first page,
R/O the water, Boil it do whatever you want but take
It from the hot tap (Or upstairs) Sodium ain't moving
You should never need ph up or down with AN/GHE
Adding it & Changing mixes all the time detrimental
& It also changes the ratio's of the desired nutrients
Ps. Transplant shock in hydro ?? It should be minimal
Growing & Leaves straight out in a day or 2, In coco
Mine 2 days max (Rhizo/kelp (Same) As foliar spray)
(As it's sprayed on do not add acid or alkaline to PH)
Pps. Since using GHE my meters been dormant as I
Got sick of checking it as the same PH 5.8 to PH 6.0

Aqua Man · Jul 19, 2019

Chevy Chaze said:
Ok only trying to help `-' & I only read the first page,
R/O the water boil it do whatever you want but take
It from the hot tap (Or upstairs) Sodium ain't moving
You should never need ph up or down with AN/GHE
Adding it & Changing mixes all the time detrimental

RO should be filtered at about 77-78f in most systems. I agree never ph this line and if it outa whack do a res change.

If your making your own RO you might want to add a quality catalytic carbon filter to the existing system as several RO units will remove chlorine but not chloramine without such a filter. If you purchase it you can ask them if they use this or test the water yourself with a test kit from a pet store or water supply store.

Tbh though I don't see this as a big concern for adding but for full res change outs in a live system its not a bad idea when using bacteria additives. For top ups no big deal. This is only in terms of hydro

Chevy Chaze · Jul 19, 2019

Aqua Man said:
RO should be filtered at about 77-78f in most systems. I agree never ph this line and if it outa whack do a res change.

If your making your own RO you might want to add a quality catalytic carbon filter to the existing system as several RO units will remove chlorine but not chloramine without such a filter. If you purchase it you can ask them if they use this or test the water yourself with a test kit from a pet store or water supply store.

Tbh though I don't see this as a big concern for adding but for full res change outs in a live system its not a bad idea when using bacteria additives. For top ups no big deal. This is only in terms of hydro

Great advice !! Yes R/O will remove chlorine which removes itself if aired in an open container for 24 / 48 hours
But not Chloramine, Fluoride or Sodium which all come from the hot tap as human cleaning agents. The cold tap
Holds Chlorine (Is PH 14 Bleach) to bleach all the critters out of our drinking water, I also learned it the hard way
I used to use Canna coco A&B & Got amazing results, Moved house struggled bought PH & PPM meters & Other
Nutrients went through them trying to make the PPM's fit & Whatever but still felt drier & More yellowing than
Before ?? After 4 mth (4 F*cking months) I went onto a thread forgot it's link but it was on canna site & Heard of
Sodium etc & Checked ?? Turns out my old house had the downstairs cold water line going to both up & Down ??
(Water lines were from 1922 & Fitted by some unknown company !! That's why we moved the outdoor drains !!)
Here at my new house they run on separate pipes '~' One for d/stairs cold tap & One to rest. Now I've found out
& Started to use the downstairs cold tap only ? All of my results are fully back to normal. Nice & Oily & Stinking '-'
(Better !! Since I found GHE '-' Best thing I ever did !! Tried Canna, Shogun, A N, Fox Farm, A,H,O,H Dutch Pro etc)
Ps You know which nutrients gonna create salt build up before using them ?? Build up on the bottle & In the lid '~'

Aqua Man · Jul 19, 2019

Chevy Chaze said:
Great advice !! Yes R/O will remove chlorine which removes itself if aired in an open container for 24/48 hours
But not Chloramine, Fluoride or Sodium which all come from the hot tap as human cleaning agents. The cold tap
Holds Chlorine (Is PH 14 Bleach) to bleach all the critters out of our drinking water, I also learned it the hard way
I used to use Canna coco A&B & Got amazing results, Moved house struggled bought PH & PPM meters & Other
Nutrients went through them trying to make the the PPM's fit whatever & Still drier feel & More yellowing than
Before ?? After 4 mth (4 F*cking months) I went onto a thread forgot it's link but it was on canna site & Heard of
Sodium etc & Checked ?? Turns out my old house had the downstairs cold water line going to both up & Down tap
Where as here at the new house they run on separate pipes '~' Now my results are back to normal '-' oily & Stinky
(& I also found the GHE line '-' Best thing I ever did !! Tried Canna, Shogun, A N, Fox Farm, A,H,O,H Dutch Pro etc)

Are you possibly thinking of a water softener that exchanges sodium for calcium and other minerals?

An RO will remove almost all sodium.

The fluoride, sodium, chlorine, chloramine, calcium, mag and many many others are in all city tap water and the water heater won't filter anything out so both hot and cold will contain them. It the pressure that's maintained in the system that keeps the chlorine from escaping when heated.

chuey316 · Jul 25, 2019

Happy to say I've made some lead way on the temps. Between wrapping my grow tote and feed line with reflective tape, insulating the return line, and keeping the mini fridge stocked every 12hrs with frozen bottles, I've been able to hold between 70-70.5f.

Having some discoloration now, and I'm thinking cal/mag, but would like opinions. If I do need to grab some cal/mag, any types/brands that won't interfere with the perfect ph line?

chuey316 · Jul 27, 2019

Anyone? Going to the hydro shop after work, but don't want to start adding anything that they don't need, and potentially make the problem worse.

Aqua Man · Jul 27, 2019

Base nutes, adequate light, medium, temps, humidity. Keep it simple don't let them sell you anything more.

In Flower maybe some pk boost.

Keep things simple the minimal gains with a bunch of additives only benefits you if you have the knowledge and experience of how to use them. More often than not in the hands of a new grower they will cause issues

chuey316 · Jul 27, 2019

I have all of the above. Just need to know what's up with the leaves, whether it's a cal/mag issue, or something else.

Aqua Man · Jul 27, 2019

Have you checked for bugs with a microscope? First thing I do when I see leave edges like that.

They looked like they are dry. Possibly heat issues or wind burn. Anything jump out at you that may cause either?

Now if it's old damage it won't get better so how does the new growth look?

Using Perfect PH from Advanced Nutrients. My ph is 7.7

Using Perfect PH from Advanced Nutrients. My ph is 7.7

Burned Haze

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Using Perfect PH from Advanced Nutrients. My ph is 7.7

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