Wise and knowledgeable expert advise for DWC at altitude.

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Anthem

Anthem

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This guy i know only uses rose or tomato nutrients for his weed, he says they all require the same nutrients. Not sure the truth behind that though as his stuff is usually wispy and mostly leaf, and never gets me high but that could just be him chopping to early.
I do not know about the rose thing. I was under the impression roses like acidic soil so I assume they would add some sort of PH down to the nutrients. I wonder if lowering the PH of the soil could be the cause if using rose flower nutrients, since lowering the PH is going to help the plant intake more nitrogen?
 
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IamN2pot

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Actually a lot of growers back before cannabis specific nutrients were around used tomatoes nutrient formulas to grow cannabis. Maybe try using the cannabis formula for the tomatoes. In DWC I would probably stay around an EC of 1 or maybe .8.
I remember those days! All you could ask or speak about in the hydro store was tomatoes and veggies, so yes, that's the exact logic I used in choosing to do a training run on a tomato. It's all good!!!! 👍

The white on your hydroton is salt. I am not sure what is in the bottom of your rez. Wait I think I know what that is. It is the calcium chloride in Jacks. How are you mixing the jacks?
I hadn't added anything when the picture was taken, still haven't in the buckets that dropped in pH. I know you have to mix the 321 as A, Epsom and then B. here's their video..
 
Anthem

Anthem

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I remember those days! All you could ask or speak about in the hydro store was tomatoes and veggies, so yes, that's the exact logic I used in choosing to do a training run on a tomato. It's all good!!!! 👍


I hadn't added anything when the picture was taken, still haven't in the buckets that dropped in pH. I know you have to mix the 321 as A, Epsom and then B. here's their video..
I am confused. What have you added to the rez in the pictures?
I am very familiar with Jacks. I run it and have for about 16 months.
 
Goodshit97

Goodshit97

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I do not know about the rose thing. I was under the impression roses like acidic soil so I assume they would add some sort of PH down to the nutrients. I wonder if lowering the PH of the soil could be the cause if using rose flower nutrients, since lowering the PH is going to help the plant intake more nitrogen?
Roses like a ph of 6.5 so i doubt they put ph down in the fertilizer, but most rose fertilizers are higher in N than PK so thats probably why.
 
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IamN2pot

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I am confused. What have you added to the rez in the pictures?
I am very familiar with Jacks. I run it and have for about 16 months.
That original picture is of my 'tote' reserve RO water supply. It had silica and phosphoric acid. That's all.

Here is a picture I just snapped of the reservoir to my 4 plant, 5 gal bucket RDWC. See the white cloud looking spots on the bottom of the bucket. Again, nothing in that bucket but RO, silica and phosphoric. When I checked the pH a few minutes ago, it had dropped from 5.8 on Wed, (may have been Tue?) to 5.4 now. Puzzling????


IMG 20230224 115409
 
Anthem

Anthem

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That original picture is of my 'tote' reserve RO water supply. It had silica and phosphoric acid. That's all.

Here is a picture I just snapped of the reservoir to my 4 plant, 5 gal bucket RDWC. See the white cloud looking spots on the bottom of the bucket. Again, nothing in that bucket but RO, silica and phosphoric. When I checked the pH a few minutes ago, it had dropped from 5.8 on Wed, (may have been Tue?) to 5.4 now. Puzzling????


View attachment 1334475
PH dropping is usually a sign the plants are up taking nutrients out of the water faster then they are using water. But you only have Silica and PO Down. What are you using for Silica?
But to be honest those tomatoes plants look like they are not happy and that can also effect the PH by the plants giving off what they do not want.
 
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IamN2pot

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It certainly appears that way. The EC / TDS would fluctuated between .3-.4 / 230-240 (700 scale) all week, until this morning. Today the EC wouldn't go below .4 and the TDS was fluctuating between 240 ande 250.
 
Anthem

Anthem

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its how a heat pump works. Same as a mini-spilt AC.
Moe you may know this better than I do. I have learned from my construction background heat pumps suck at heating the air and are much more efficient at cooling the air over heating it.
 
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IamN2pot

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What is your current PH level. It looks to me as if the Potassium Silicate is precipitating out of the water.
It is still at 5.0 in the 5gal buckets, the picture with the stuff circled in red. It was 5.7 in the tote. Then I added the 321 at 60% strength about an hour ago and raised pH to 5.8. Just checked it and it's back down to 5.7 and the white cloud stuff has re-settled. Go figure???????
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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Moe you may know this better than I do. I have learned from my construction background heat pumps suck at heating the air and are much more efficient at cooling the air over heating it.
As is any electrical based heater. Natural gas FTW when heating.

Directly heating the air with fire will always be the best way to go, unless you want to start talking nuclear decay 😉

Heat pumps have their place tho. My mini split is currently producing heat, but soon will be cooling as the plants get bigger and the lights come up. Having the ability to go either way is a nice feature, even tho it is not the most efficient.
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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It is still at 5.0 in the 5gal buckets, the picture with the stuff circled in red. It was 5.7 in the tote. Then I added the 321 at 60% strength about an hour ago and raised pH to 5.8. Just checked it and it's back down to 5.7 and the white cloud stuff has re-settled. Go figure???????
I think you have a little potassium silicate precipitating out. No biggie.
 
Anthem

Anthem

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It is still at 5.0 in the 5gal buckets, the picture with the stuff circled in red. It was 5.7 in the tote. Then I added the 321 at 60% strength about an hour ago and raised pH to 5.8. Just checked it and it's back down to 5.7 and the white cloud stuff has re-settled. Go figure???????
You are going to see some PH swings no matter how hard you try. I would assume the 5.8 to 5.7 is just the solution settling to it final number. I use auto PH'ers and they still have some swings specifically as the solution gets older which is kind of what I want because if the PH is dropping at the end of the Rez life it means the plants are eating the nutrients as I am hoping.
I think Moe is passing on the jacks information I may have given him. Jacks is extremely forgiving if you follow the recipe. 3.79-2.52-.99. You can get very good results using this formula. I am in the process of changing up the mix some but I am not going to start talking about that in an open forum. I have problems because of added Co2 and light strength.
 
Anthem

Anthem

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As is any electrical based heater. Natural gas FTW when heating.

Directly heating the air with fire will always be the best way to go, unless you want to start talking nuclear decay 😉

Heat pumps have their place tho. My mini split is currently producing heat, but soon will be cooling as the plants get bigger and the lights come up. Having the ability to go either way is a nice feature, even tho it is not the most efficient.
Well get this one. If you go to build a new house in Cali, they no longer allow a gas line to the house.
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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Id say that sounds very likely and would explain the slight ph drop. The question is why
I'm coming up to speed here, but it seems like this plant is not happy and is probably severely underfed.

I'm guessing the plant is having an impact on the environment. If this were cannabis I would be all over feeding her more and getting things balanced. Plants in trouble tend to cause PH swings (generally down I have found) or the bacteria on the roots can cause a swing.
 
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