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IamN2pot
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The first link is exactly what I’m using. It’s a big bag tho so it will last a really long time. Plenty to dump in the bathtub with ya.OK, so the Jack's 321 uses "Magnisium Sulfate epsom salts". I never knew that epsom salts came in multipal formulas. A quick look on Amazon shows at least 3 Agricultural epsom salt(s). One salt that is 100% Magnesium Sulfate, here. Then there is this one, it's Magnesium Sulfate heptahydrate. and last is the one I have here. It has a completely differant 'guarenteed analysis'. Not to mention plain old generic Magnesium Sulfate USP (food grade?) Soooo, I wonder if Jack's has theor own formula. Not alot on their label. here. Thought I could save some of the $27 + shipping for epsom salts, now I'm not so sure.
Suggestions and recomendations?
Thanks!
Thanks Moe, for your expertise! Any problem using the pure food grade? I've already got some of the wally mart Equate brand in the bathroom.The first link is exactly what I’m using. It’s a big bag tho so it will last a really long time. Plenty to dump in the bathtub with ya.
10 grams of silica plus 30 mL of PH down make the PH exactly 5.8
Are you adding this to your concentrate nutrient mix or is that for the res itself?
Fun watching this. I had looked at Jacks when I was first considering hydro but couldn't find much on how to use it, especially as a beginner. I love the idea of having liquid concentrate and the convenience that offers. Nice work Moe.
that's ready to be my "canary in the coal mine" to learn on before I go busting $10 beans.Cannabis, Calcium, BER (blossom end rot), Tomatoes and FF Ocean Forest
I've been growing my pot in soil for years and have, for years, thought that the leaf 'burn' I always see towards the last half of bloom was a Potassium deficiency, although adding additional 'bloom' fert didn't really help. Fast forward to this winter. The wife and I decided to have a small...www.thcfarmer.com
@Aqua Man I see you following along, jump right in.Bless you!!! that's just what I needed to see and hear! I was curious about running it for 24hrs to let everything settle. I know in my tiny 2 quart cloner, my pH has to be adjusted every 8 hours for the first day or so. That plant is in a 210-220 ppm solution of RO and CloneX 1-.6-1 seedling and rooting solution @ 5.8 target and 72* because that's the house temp. ...and how the heck does one tell if a cheap ppm meter from Amazon is on the 500 or the 700 scale? That one is new to me, too.
One more question. On the Jack's nute schedule for 321, will I be changing out the water when the formula's change? From Clone to Veg, again at bud set "for 1 week", again for flower, then for late flower and flush?
Something tells me with "live", I should just adjust the nute values to as close as the schedule as possable, but that's purely my speculation.Not that 4 water changes and a flush are out of the question, I just don't know.
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In the middles of a course right now so just peeking here and there@Aqua Man I see you following along, jump right in.
Does your meter have a button to switch between EC and PPM or TDS? If so, give me a reading on each scale and I'll tell you what you have.
EC = 1 = 500PPM = 500 scale for example.
In terms of changing out the res, I am going to strongly suggest you do that on your first experience. Doing so re-balances all the nutes which is really important. The ratio of each one to each other is more important than the actual PPM number, within reason. Dumping and starting over makes sure you are in the right balance. A little pump with a hose to the sink makes it really easy.
In the future once you have been successful and managed a couple of imbalances, topping off rather than dumping becomes realistic. That's when the training wheels come off. I might be a few days ahead of you, I'll post what I am doing as I do it on a new thread so you can decide what parts of what I am saying to adopt - what works best for you. At least there will be a road map to follow, even if you like the side trips.
Those work surprisingly well.What i have used in the past before designing a drain and fill system. It will fill and drain… a bit wasteful on the drain but sure much easier then lugging buckets if you dont have a pumo drain and fill system
What i have used in the past before designing a drain and fill system. It will fill and drain… a bit wasteful on the drain but sure much easier then lugging buckets if you dont have a pumo drain and fill system
Those work surprisingly well.
Citric acid? I have a feeling your going to run into ph stability issuesWOW, glad I can practice. 1.2 gr of silica shot the pH up to 9.2, so I'm thinking about 1 gr of Citric Acid to bring it down. It did, to 4.8, LOL. So, an additional .8 gr of silica brought it back up to 5.8. Note to self, 2 to 1 ratio silica to citric = aprox 5.8pH. So next time, it's 1.2gr silica and .6gr citric.
But for now, is that to much silica? That some 60%+ more silica than Moe uses? Starting over is real easy at this point.
Citric acid? I have a feeling your going to run into ph stability issues
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