Moe.Red
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- Jul 19, 2020
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Sorry you are right. Wasn’t taking my time on that one.
Sorry you are right. Wasn’t taking my time on that one.500 scale? 0.3 woukd be 150ppm
Yeah i knew ya just made a typo. Just wanted to make sure he knewSorry you are right. Wasn’t taking my time on that one.
Naw, wasn't a typo, just plain got it wrong doing too many things at once.Yeah i knew ya just made a typo. Just wanted to make sure he knew
Lol your not gonna believe this… 0.3 EC on the 500 scale is wrong… and its the only wrong one on the chartNaw, wasn't a typo, just plain got it wrong doing too many things at once.
Thanks for the correction.
Please see chart below. Ignore anything else I have said to the contrary.
AHAHAHAHALol your not gonna believe this… 0.3 EC on the 500 scale is wrong… and its the only wrong one on the chart
Im having one of those days too brother… all the signs are telling me don’t use a knife or anything sharp, do not leave the house, dont not attempt to fix anything, go to bed early and hope for better luck tomorrowAHAHAHAHA
I give up. Please, take everything i say and post with a grain of salt!
"according to Jacks", their nute schedule uses the same A/B and later 7-15-30 Finish as weed, just without any Epsom. Just what @CannaGranny says they need. I agree with the mag def diognosis. I'll go ahead and change out the water and add the 'recomended' Jack's schedule A/B nutes today. Anything else to add? Re-inoculate the roots again in 'strong' Orca, before adding the Orco to the fresh mix?Sorry man, I do not grow tomatoes. I don't know if they take similar nutes and such as weed.
Roots look fine.
I don't know if there is a bug there that eats tomatoes, a shortage of nutes, and imbalance, whatever. I would lean towards needing to up the EC based on previous posts, but you might try to ask someone that grows tomatoes for advice. There are quite a few growers that I can think of like @TSD and maybe @CannaGranny and probably lots of others that do tomatoes. Sorry I'm not more helpful.
When I soil plant my tomatoes I always drop two tablespoons of epsom, raw, in the bottom of the hole."according to Jacks", their nute schedule uses the same A/B and later 7-15-30 Finish as weed, just without any Epsom. Just what @CannaGranny says they need. I agree with the mag def diognosis. I'll go ahead and change out the water and add the 'recomended' Jack's schedule A/B nutes today. Anything else to add? Re-inoculate the roots again in 'strong' Orca, before adding the Orco to the fresh mix?
What stregnth should I mix up the Epsom foliar spray at???
Looks like another learning day!
You are saying the jacks 321 formula with I assume the 5-12-26 base does not call for Epsom Salt?"according to Jacks", their nute schedule uses the same A/B and later 7-15-30 Finish as weed, just without any Epsom. Just what @CannaGranny says they need. I agree with the mag def diognosis. I'll go ahead and change out the water and add the 'recomended' Jack's schedule A/B nutes today. Anything else to add? Re-inoculate the roots again in 'strong' Orca, before adding the Orco to the fresh mix?
What stregnth should I mix up the Epsom foliar spray at??? EDIT, lugnut, she gave you the dosage!!
Looks like another learning day!
Please take a look at the Jack's Nutrition Schedule for Fruiting Crops. I previously posted it, but here is the link.You are saying the jacks 321 formula with I assume the 5-12-26 base does not call for Epsom Salt?
Jacks 321 stands for 3 parts base nutrients 5-12-26, 2 parts of Calcium Nitrate and 1 part of Epsom Salt. Also if you take a look at their lasted feed chart they are asking you to use the following amounts of each 3.79, 2.52, .99. Additionally if you take a look at their feed chart the finishing product is called out as requiring Epsom Salt in the solution. Where are. you getting your information?
Please note that it uses the same Jack's A and B nutes, minus the Epsom, on that feeding schedule. That is where I'm getting my information on feeding the tomato with the same basic nutes as weed.
Foliar spray applied! Thanks for the suggestion!!!When I soil plant my tomatoes I always drop two tablespoons of epsom, raw, in the bottom of the hole.
On your foilar feeding, a tablespoon to a gallon of water.
As I said, my tomato‘s just flat did not like hydrophonics. Once they had a root system they wanted out!
One more thing that looks like that is when a tomato plant picks up tobacco mosaic. They are extremely susceptible to that.
Keep in mind, this is just my opinion. I can’t speak against what your nutes call for, as with anything it could be a bad outcome!
Tomatoes are classified at a vegetable in the US. No idea why you would be posting up information for tomatoes on a cannabis forum but you be you.Please take a look at the Jack's Nutrition Schedule for Fruiting Crops. I previously posted it, but here is the link.
Please note that it uses the same Jack's A and B nutes, minus the Epsom, on that feeding schedule. That is where I'm getting my information on feeding the tomato with the same basic nutes as weed.
Edit, so yes, the 321 does call for epsom for weed. the fruit schedule doesn't.
He's doing a training run, cut the man some slack.Tomatoes are classified at a vegetable in the US. No idea why you would be posting up information for tomatoes on a cannabis forum but you be you.
THanks Moe, and well, I'd like to learn why there is white residue in both my reserve reservoir, pictured below, as well as the weed buckets I started preparing for the NL2 x Haze I'll be popping next week? All that is in that water is RO, below detection on my Bluelab EC, .6gr per gal silica and pH'ed down with the phosphoric acid to 5.8? The water in the DWC went from 5.8 to 5.4 over the past 48hrs. Nothing in those buckets but RO, silica and phosphoric. That's puzzling? a .4pH drop and residue? Is it normal?He's doing a training run, cut the man some slack.
I don't know how much of what it being learned will translate into weed tho. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the requirements are different.
Actually a lot of growers back before cannabis specific nutrients were around used tomatoes nutrient formulas to grow cannabis. Maybe try using the cannabis formula for the tomatoes. In DWC I would probably stay around an EC of 1 or maybe .8.He's doing a training run, cut the man some slack.
I don't know how much of what it being learned will translate into weed tho. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the requirements are different.
The white on your hydroton is salt. I am not sure what is in the bottom of your rez. Wait I think I know what that is. It is the calcium chloride in Jacks. How are you mixing the jacks?THanks Moe, and well, I'd like to learn why there is white residue in both my reserve reservoir, pictured below, as well as the weed buckets I started preparing for the NL2 x Haze I'll be popping next week? All that is in that water is RO, below detection on my Bluelab EC, .6gr per gal silica and pH'ed down with the phosphoric acid to 5.8? The water in the DWC went from 5.8 to 5.4 over the past 48hrs. Nothing in those buckets but RO, silica and phosphoric. That's puzzling? a .4pH drop and residue? Is it normal?
Had to turn the air off to get the picture of the white sediment. It disapears when I squirt it with a pipett and re-apears as it settles again.
View attachment 1334467
This guy i know only uses rose or tomato nutrients for his weed, he says they all require the same nutrients. Not sure the truth behind that though as his stuff is usually wispy and mostly leaf, and never gets me high but that could just be him chopping to early.Actually a lot of growers back before cannabis specific nutrients were around used tomatoes nutrient formulas to grow cannabis. Maybe try using the cannabis formula for the tomatoes. In DWC I would probably stay around an EC of 1 or maybe .8.
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