Milson
Milsonian
Supporter
- 3,376
- 263
Have you given any more thought to whether you will.....dabble in extracts with this strain?
Irie Seeds "Orange Gasm" under Gavita Pro 1700e LED's..........
- Status
Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
Supporter
- 5,188
- 313
Yea, I've always noticed a lot more hermaphroditism for sure in sativas, some more than others. Especially seems to happen in "northern" derived varieties, it seems.
The plants look very good btw, I'm going to try and use your plants to time how I harvest these next few plants, try and sync them up to your level of development, and see if I can narrow things down better. Maybe learn something from your timing. I'm maybe a week behind you at most, maybe 10 days.
Just ordered a really nice 51MP microscopic camera, but it's going to take a few weeks for delivery from Ghina.
Feature:
2. Suitable for observing the surface microstructure of large objects. Provides convenience for precise measurement and correction of objects
5. The productis widely used in printing, mobile phone repair, archaeology, biological anatomy, school teaching, etc. Support sharpness contrast color gain and mono negative film
Specification:
Item Type: Industrial Electronic Digital Video Microscope Camera
Input: 100-240vAC50/60Hz
Output: 5VDC 1A
Number of Modules: 1150
Sensor: 51 million pixel CMOS
Optical Format: 1/2.3 inch
Pixel Size: 1.335μmx1.335μm
Interface: For HDMI (Type A). USB (Type B). small memory card
HDMI Image Resolution: 51 MegaPixel
Video Resolution: 2K at 30FPS 1080p at 60FPS
HDMI Resolution: 1920 x 1080p 60FPS
HDMI Scale: Support 4:3, 16:9, 16:10 screen
USB2.0 (Drive-Free): 1920 x 1080 at 30FPS 1280 x 720 at 30FPS 640 x 480 at 30FPS
Small Memory Card: Up to 128GB (not included small memory card)
AWB: WB color correction / automatic / manual
R.G.B value setting independent
Exposure: Automatic / manual. AE value can be set
Cross Line: 8 lines, color, width, position can be set
Scale Line: 2 lines.
Dashed Line: 2 lines. Color, width and position can be set
Sharpness Contrast Color Gain: Support
Mono Negative Film: Support
Mirror: Horizontal and vertical mirror
Language: English / Simplified Chinese
Digital Zoom: Support
Infrared Remote Control: Support
Voltage Input: DC 12V Size: Approx. 55-21mm / 2.2-0.8in
Power Consumption: Maximum 0.15W 12V, 0.12A
Lens Interface: C/CS port
130 Times Lens Features:
Zoom C mount lens
Magnification 0.12-2X (approximately 8X-130X on the screen)
Working Distance: Approx. 50mm-200mm / 2-7.9in
Field of View: Approx. 2.4mm-32mm / 0.1-1.3in
C Type Mounting Thread: Approx. 4 x 25mm / 0.2 x 1in (used to connect electronic eyepiece or CCD camera)
Package List:
1 x 51MP Microscope Camera
1 x 120x C-MOUNT Lens
1 x Power Adapter
1 x Infrared Remote Control
1 x USB Cable
1 x Software CD
Note:
Ship without battery
Looks like a fun new toy.
Last edited:
sshz
- 2,636
- 263
Although Rasta Jeff said it's where the strain shines, I doubt I'm going to deal with that. I'm not an extracts guy, I've never really bothered with it. Since I'm not really smoking, I probably don't care as much and am less inclined to make the effort. I will make hash in some form, I just haven't thought about how yet.
Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
Supporter
- 5,188
- 313
What do you think the best metric to look at, or do you look at them all in relation to one another. meaning amber, cloudiness, head drop, or perhaps any other things you do to look at peak ripeness? I get that your doing it commercially, and thus my interest in your methodology, because I know your considering weight vs quality.
sshz
- 2,636
- 263
A good question but a tough one to answer...........
Under HPS, I normally just go to 70 days and don't give it much thought past that. Most things, if not all, are basically done enough to chop and dry at that point. I don't grow long sativa's, which could require more time for sure.
I was always told plants under LED's would finish a few days faster than with HPS, it's one of the things that attracted my interest. But since it's my first grow with the lights, I want to give them every chance to show what they can do, especially in the yield department. There is no single tell tale sign I use to determine the best time to harvest. I would think the best and most reliable indicator would be to dry a piece of bud and smoke it. I do look at trichome colors and subtle changes, but that's not always the best determining factor as strains all change (or don't) at different times and in different ways. I have found finishing plants start to reduce their water intake, and I do pay close attention to that. But all told- I use my experience and the visual appearance of the plants to decide when it's best.
Others use the pistils as a sign. As they dry up, the pods below expand and the buds harden. I also take this into consideration.
Under HPS, I normally just go to 70 days and don't give it much thought past that. Most things, if not all, are basically done enough to chop and dry at that point. I don't grow long sativa's, which could require more time for sure.
I was always told plants under LED's would finish a few days faster than with HPS, it's one of the things that attracted my interest. But since it's my first grow with the lights, I want to give them every chance to show what they can do, especially in the yield department. There is no single tell tale sign I use to determine the best time to harvest. I would think the best and most reliable indicator would be to dry a piece of bud and smoke it. I do look at trichome colors and subtle changes, but that's not always the best determining factor as strains all change (or don't) at different times and in different ways. I have found finishing plants start to reduce their water intake, and I do pay close attention to that. But all told- I use my experience and the visual appearance of the plants to decide when it's best.
Others use the pistils as a sign. As they dry up, the pods below expand and the buds harden. I also take this into consideration.
Last edited:
Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
Supporter
- 5,188
- 313
Yea, good answer, that's what I've been doing also. I think sometimes, if conditions are really good, you still see new growth all the way up to the end, so it makes it a bit harder to tell for me, because it's more of a judgement call. It really is a much different finish, and it seems that the lack of heat and varying intensity (how close the light are zeroed down on the plants) tend to stretch things out, or finish things faster, depending on where exactly it's at. ie. the footprint used.
I think with those kind of professional lights you've got, you get more uniform coverage along the edges, so it isn't affecting you like it does people with some of the more tightly configured units.
Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
Supporter
- 5,188
- 313
I suspect, It boils down to the rate of Transpiration especially for the auto-flowers, (time dependent) if it's a bit lower intensity, it drags things out, but when you dial them down really well, close or high intensity, depending on the LED and that's when they finish fastest, when you can optimize that transpiration and get them to "super ripen"
as you say, there going to take less water, that's probably an important one, because that would be the easiest way to measure when transpiration is diminishing. I've been watching water more closely now, and how "each" one does, specifically, the center ones tend to drink most.
But with this "pure" water regime, I'm not worrying about amendments or nutes, because it's for the most part all there. I might do an "occasional" feed here at the end, I suspect, but wait and see, so far there kinda over fertilized IMO, at least one or two of them anyhow. Here's them with the lights off, natural color, about 2 weeks into the flower. (veg room). Please comment about any issues you notice, it's certainly a mixed lot, all the plants look different, although the ones that were stressed seem to have recovered some, from the mag I think. Getting a fair amount of yellowing at the bottoms of some, and not in others. I think the soil mix wasn't quite as "uniform" as I thought.
I just planted a few GDP, GG#4 and a few others, in the peat pots, some here are around 1 month old, the big ones are almost 2 months now. The finish room is pretty full also, so clear them out soon enough. They look a little rough, although this is a new technique for me, I guess I kinda over did the amendments on some of them, but I wanted them strong. I hit the one with purple stems with some extra mag, (also a little bone meal, and some kelp) I'll probably hit it again.
as you say, there going to take less water, that's probably an important one, because that would be the easiest way to measure when transpiration is diminishing. I've been watching water more closely now, and how "each" one does, specifically, the center ones tend to drink most.
But with this "pure" water regime, I'm not worrying about amendments or nutes, because it's for the most part all there. I might do an "occasional" feed here at the end, I suspect, but wait and see, so far there kinda over fertilized IMO, at least one or two of them anyhow. Here's them with the lights off, natural color, about 2 weeks into the flower. (veg room). Please comment about any issues you notice, it's certainly a mixed lot, all the plants look different, although the ones that were stressed seem to have recovered some, from the mag I think. Getting a fair amount of yellowing at the bottoms of some, and not in others. I think the soil mix wasn't quite as "uniform" as I thought.
I just planted a few GDP, GG#4 and a few others, in the peat pots, some here are around 1 month old, the big ones are almost 2 months now. The finish room is pretty full also, so clear them out soon enough. They look a little rough, although this is a new technique for me, I guess I kinda over did the amendments on some of them, but I wanted them strong. I hit the one with purple stems with some extra mag, (also a little bone meal, and some kelp) I'll probably hit it again.
Last edited:
sshz
- 2,636
- 263
Wow, just how tall are those plants in the last picture? Things look good, appears you have a slight Mg deficiency to me- I'd be giving them epsom salts every watering for a week or two and see if things get better. If not, we'll take it to the next step.
And what is your medium and what pH do you water at?
And what is your medium and what pH do you water at?
Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
Supporter
- 5,188
- 313
Tad over 6 foot maybe 6 1/2 although the two back ones (those are my bubba/afgan kushes) have been super-cropped because they were bigger. (they were over 6 foot at the start of veg) LOL I've got the shorties sitting up on plastic storage containers, and anything/everything I can find to elevate them. Just to try and compensate, it's a hodge podge for sure.
Alright, damn I skipped tonight, but I'll do it for the rest of the week. Just the ones that look effected? with the dark stems/light leaves or purple stems??? Or should I do them all...
I think I"m just going to back cross these with the last generation male, so I can solidify these autogenes. as they seem like there struggling to flower in 24 hour sunlight, I could induce them more, but I want to make sure I keep the autostrain properties strong. These progeny are significantly bigger than the female parent, I believe. I think these autos might be capable of producing a pound or more of weed, under the right conditions.
They look like there flowering ok?
Last edited:
sshz
- 2,636
- 263
First plant chopped.........14 branches, no fluff on it at all. At 6 grams average per branch, that's exactly 3 oz. But, I think they'll average higher than that so I'm guessing 3 1/2 oz. I may do 1 more tomorrow but I suspect the rest will go to at least 70 days.
Last edited:
Madmax
- 4,733
- 313
It has begun..your first led grows gonna go close to the magic 79 ozzies..you gonna have a taste
sshz
- 2,636
- 263
14 branches per plant X 24 plants = 336 branches total, way more than expected. The yield keeps on looking better and better.
I think I may try some scissor hash today, just for a citrus blast. I’ll report back.........
I think I may try some scissor hash today, just for a citrus blast. I’ll report back.........
Dr.Green55
- 577
- 143
looks really good, is there any of that strong orange small ?
sshz
- 2,636
- 263
No orange, I have yet to see any indication of it anywhere....... and believe me, I'm looking. Personally, I think it's just another marketing ploy. The citrus/grapefruit comes and goes, depending on the plant. If you go further back in the parents genetics, you'll find skunk on both sides. The Platinum Tangie side is made up of Cali-O X Skunk, and the Golden Goat side has Island Sweet Skunk there. I bring it up because appearance wise, it looks very skunky to me. A Citrus Skunk appears about right or maybe a Sour Skunk.
Back to the orange.......... I think he labeled it "orange" because orange/tangerine/citrus tones can be found throughout it's genetics. The Cali-O brings orange, the I.S.S. brings grapefruit, and so on. I'm assuming if I do find something orange, it will be noticed on just a few plants, well into the drying/curing process.
I did a small spec of hash earlier in a glass pipe............ the hash off a scissors after trimming 1 plant. As expected, it came on quickly in the head and has been long lasting. Things are just a bit "brighter" thru the eyes, and I feel relaxed and but still edgey, if you get my drift. My mood is up and good......it's doing what it's supposed to do. I think things will only improve with a slow drying period with a cure. Problem is, it's never around long enough to cure properly.
Back to the orange.......... I think he labeled it "orange" because orange/tangerine/citrus tones can be found throughout it's genetics. The Cali-O brings orange, the I.S.S. brings grapefruit, and so on. I'm assuming if I do find something orange, it will be noticed on just a few plants, well into the drying/curing process.
I did a small spec of hash earlier in a glass pipe............ the hash off a scissors after trimming 1 plant. As expected, it came on quickly in the head and has been long lasting. Things are just a bit "brighter" thru the eyes, and I feel relaxed and but still edgey, if you get my drift. My mood is up and good......it's doing what it's supposed to do. I think things will only improve with a slow drying period with a cure. Problem is, it's never around long enough to cure properly.
sshz
- 2,636
- 263
"Alright, damn I skipped tonight, but I'll do it for the rest of the week. Just the ones that look effected? with the dark stems/light leaves or purple stems??? Or should I do them all..."
If they are all in the same medium, and some are showing deficiency signs and others aren't- it's most likely some are more resistant to the issues and others less. Actually, what might make more sense is to spray the deficient plants with a mix of water and 1 tablespoon of the E. S. This may make better sense since you won't toxify the soil with more salt (since fertilizer is a salt too). Maybe lightly spray ever 4-5 days a couple of times. Or just fertilize with it- both will work.
Yes, things look fine. There's some minor stuff going on, but nothing we can't figure out. Obviously, a bit leafy too and you need to consider removing some of those larger sun leaves........
If they are all in the same medium, and some are showing deficiency signs and others aren't- it's most likely some are more resistant to the issues and others less. Actually, what might make more sense is to spray the deficient plants with a mix of water and 1 tablespoon of the E. S. This may make better sense since you won't toxify the soil with more salt (since fertilizer is a salt too). Maybe lightly spray ever 4-5 days a couple of times. Or just fertilize with it- both will work.
Yes, things look fine. There's some minor stuff going on, but nothing we can't figure out. Obviously, a bit leafy too and you need to consider removing some of those larger sun leaves........
Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
Supporter
- 5,188
- 313
They really look fantastic, I can see the glow of the resin even from that distance. They look really heavy to me.
Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
Supporter
- 5,188
- 313
Yea, I was thinking about defoliating this bunch because I've never really done it aggressively in the past, just a few bottom leaves here and there, I'm generally against it, but in this case, with the plants size, and the limitations of my lighting vs plant count/size, I think I need more penetration, it will probably help overall in this case. I've already seen stuff starving below for light. What do you think 1/3 of the leaves? Thanks for the idea with the foliar spray, I think I'll do that because the soil should be pretty set, and I want to minimize screwing with it.
BurnzYzBudZz
HOWCan.i.helPYOU?
Supporter
- 3,888
- 263
So true. Haha. My last crop hit week 5 of curing and it’s gone. I Smoked maybe an 1/8th.
Milson
Milsonian
Supporter
- 3,376
- 263
As I'm approaching harvest I guess I will ask: have you noticed any difference from putting the plant in darkness for X hours before cutting? Guessing you did not do that here.
sshz
- 2,636
- 263
This plant goes tomorrow...............
- Status
Latest posts
-
Is this rapid growth or normal- LoveGrowingIt posted
-
https://www.thcfarmer.com/posts/3111397/- emanresu posted
-
TBrowning Leaves Week 6 Flowering Help!!
- TheCojn55 posted
-
Why do growers buy Mars Hydro?- Mikedin posted
