mike1980
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So this is last year's purple disease thing and what the plant finished to be. Symptoms start same time of season early flower last year and this year
I can add some today, but I can't water it in for a day or so.They claim Azomite is not harmful to the soil, or microbes and also helps fight off fungal, viral, and bacterial infection in the soil, and increases the immune system of the plants.
The use of natural materials such as Azomite® facilitates healthy soil conditions where beneficial microorganisms out-compete pathogens and make growing a profitable crop much easier. Without life-giving microbes in the soil we are in trouble. These microbes contribute to the release of minerals to our crops, the build-up of organic matter, and protection from pathogenic fungi. Complete and balanced mineralization, adequate organic matter, and proper soil moisture are necessary ingredients for healthy, living soil with healthy, beneficial microbes.
AZOMITE can be used to help plants fight against bacteria, viruses, and fungi. As the fungi are reduced, the plant’s immune system gets stronger.
Ive been using it for 20 years as my trace mineral source.
Both Azomite (0-0-0.2) and Langbenite (0-0-22) added.I can add some today, but I can't water it in for a day or so.
Looks like they finished just fine. Any noticable difference at all?So this is last year's purple disease thing and what the plant finished to be. Symptoms start same time of season early flower last year and this year
Hard to say because never grew that strain before. They we're harvested little early because started to see some Botrytis.Those
Looks like they finished just fine. Any noticable difference at all?
I found something interesting over the the month. I use 2 different types of P+K. One is a chelated liquid, the other is a water soluble granular. The chelated liquid works dramatically better than water soluble stuff. I think the chelation is key. I had switched to the water soluble stuff for 3 weeks, and I noticed the purpling re-emerging. I got back to the chelated liquid, and the purpling is subsiding again. Still have one plant that is super, super purple. Just beginning to flower and everything seems to be super, super tight and compact up top. Don't know why this one plant won't respond to treatments. I had a couple plants that were almost black when I first started treatments. I was able to get those back to somewhat normal with K treatments.I have one plant that has had pretty much all branches/bud sites affected. Here’s pics from today. I did up the P/K and added some Si as well. Every other plant is the same as previous years with only isolated areas being affected. I think preventative maintenance is the key with this virus/condition. The one plant being affected the worst had a rough start in life which may have made it more vulnerable. Also, I think the Si would be more inline with prevention…don’t think it would turn the tides but I guess we will see how things progress over the next 6 weeks.
My exact plan next year. All my blue cheese is perfect... Knock on wood. Super skunk is a struggleI’ve abandoned plants that are continually sick and not vigorous compared to others. That’s a lot of effort for a plant that will likely break your heart and wallet trying to heal her. I would Concentrate on the healthy ones. Good luck.
I've got good bud production. I wouldn't say it was outstanding but that could be attributed to a little too much shade as well. I really hammered the liquid potassium and it seemed to help tremendously. I left a check plant and the virus absolutely destroyed it. The leaves shriveled to nothing and ultimately the plant died. I think it is super important to sterilize equipment while pruning and using extreme caution if you are a tobacco user. From what I understand the virus can be transmitted if you are smoking a contaminated cigarette or even use dip that has been contaminated. Controlling any type of sucking insect would be advantageous as well.spinosad is a great insecticide that is basically organic.Any updates? I can now say with fairly high confidence that I agree with the leafhopper/virus theory. The plant I have that was most affected is not developing buds properly and seems to have just stalled. Previous grows have shown only isolated branches but did not affect the overall yield/quality of the flowers.
Moving forward, I will incorporate a more aggressive IPM strategy to control hoppers earlier in the growth cycle. I’ll post some pics later.
So you think it’s a variation of TMV or some unrelated pathogen/virus?I've got good bud production. I wouldn't say it was outstanding but that could be attributed to a little too much shade as well. I really hammered the liquid potassium and it seemed to help tremendously. I left a check plant and the virus absolutely destroyed it. The leaves shriveled to nothing and ultimately the plant died. I think it is super important to sterilize equipment while pruning and using extreme caution if you are a tobacco user. From what I understand the virus can be transmitted if you are smoking a contaminated cigarette or even use dip that has been contaminated. Controlling any type of sucking insect would be advantageous as well.spinosad is a great insecticide that is basically organic.
I really do. I feed a comprehensive nutrient package, amend my soil, and soil test fairly often. My pH is dead nuts accurate, and all nutrient levels are at desirable levels. These are lab results as well. Not some backyard, Amazon soil test kit (no offense to anyone who uses those). It definitely was not a nutrient issue. There isn't a nutrient that I don't account for. Even the micros. Potassium helped with keeping it in check big time, but I think the larger issue is prevention. How do we prevent this from happening in the future? Where does it come from? Is it soil born? Those are all questions I'd love to have concrete answers on. If it is indeed a TMV variant, all we can do is use caution when sourcing clones and seeds. I believe my issue was related to poor clones, and spread around through my laziness. I didn't sterilize equipment while pruning. With that being said, does it really matter if you sterilize when there are sucking insects? Viruses are the most frustrating thing to deal with because there is no cure. I had great success with light, weekly applications of a high quality K. All fertilizers are not created equal! Some may apply K and say it didn't work while others have great success. To me, that all leads back to nutrient formulation, which in the end, makes a huge difference.So you think it’s a variation of TMV or some unrelated pathogen/virus?