Dragons Flame Mac Dragon bx1 in Updated RDWC System

[Madmax]

Yeah .speak or forever hold your peace

 

[RootsRuler]

I have an idea. What if I did something like this crude approximation:

View attachment 1315319

Where the black part twist locks into the blue, and has eye holes printed in to accept 2 rods like the green one there, might be 3/4" PVC for example, and then you use the PVC for tie down. Make it whatever length you want. And then once you are tied down, you can still untwist the plant and take the whole thing, tydowns and all and move it around.

Make the net pot lip wider to accommodate the opening you want and use plastic fasteners. 4 twist locks or thumb screws for easy removal.

You're going to need to seal the underside of the net pot lip or it'll push moisture through the underside. You're going to have that problem with your twistlock collar unless you install a pressure relief valve on the top of the reservoir that equalizes the pressure inside the rez.

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

Make the net pot lip wider to accommodate the opening you want and use plastic fasteners. 4 twist locks or thumb screws for easy removal.

You might have missed it from another grow journal but Moe is making these as a fix for bucket lids drilled out for 8" net pots so that we can use smaller ones to get more water in my system. The locking system he designed is to keep the net pots from tipping like they did in the original version, this is a refinement on the original design.

Here is a photo that shows what I mean...

https://www.thcfarmer.com/unsafe/fit-in/960x0/filters:format(webp):quality(85):strip_exif()/https://www.thcfarmer.com/attachments/08fb5274-d63b-495f-a34b-d28ddff98c7a-jpeg.1310574/

As far as sealing the underside, it's not a big deal to have a bit of water leak through there. The salts you can see in that photo are not from that but actually from spills from some weekly top feedings I have done. I have not noticed any water coming up through, just a tad bit around the edge of the ring Moe created.

 

[RootsRuler]

You might have missed it from another grow journal but Moe is making these as a fix for bucket lids drilled out for 8" net pots so that we can use smaller ones to get more water in my system. The locking system he designed is to keep the net pots from tipping like they did in the original version, this is a refinement on the original design.

Here is a photo that shows what I mean...

https://www.thcfarmer.com/unsafe/fit-in/960x0/filters:format(webp):quality(85):strip_exif()/https://www.thcfarmer.com/attachments/08fb5274-d63b-495f-a34b-d28ddff98c7a-jpeg.1310574/

As far as sealing the underside, it's not a big deal to have a bit of water leak through there. The salts you can see in that photo are not from that but actually from spills from some weekly top feedings I have done. I have not noticed any water coming up through, just a tad bit around the edge of the ring Moe created.

Of course I'm basing this mostly off of my "Dining Room Caper" grow but we also had the same issues in the beginning. The air stones were filling the reservoirs with air and the only place it can escape is through the media so they were floating the pots. If you install a small blow off valve in each rez you won't get water coming up.

We were using 30gal trash cans so we used larger 8" net pots w/ Hydroton as we had anticipated the root ball issue that Moe ran into.

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

Of course I'm basing this mostly off of my "Dining Room Caper" grow but we also had the same issues in the beginning.

It seems to me I recall reading something about that here at the farm? If not, it was someone else growing in a dining room. It sounded like an adventure that's for sure, lol. The trash cans also ring a bell. Of course I could just be spaced out and none of this is really happening?

 

[Madmax]

Make the net pot lip wider to accommodate the opening you want and use plastic fasteners. 4 twist locks or thumb screws for easy removal.

You're going to need to seal the underside of the net pot lip or it'll push moisture through the underside. You're going to have that problem with your twistlock collar unless you install a pressure relief valve on the top of the reservoir that equalizes the pressure inside the rez.

That actually makes alot of sense ..good thinking

 

[RootsRuler]

It seems to me I recall reading something about that here at the farm? If not, it was someone else growing in a dining room. It sounded like an adventure that's for sure, lol. The trash cans also ring a bell. Of course I could just be spaced out and none of this is really happening?

Guilty as charged...........

 

[Moe.Red]

Yeah .speak or forever hold your peace

I’d like slg to get 14 oz minimum. But I’m calling 13 if you want to start a poll.

 

[Moe.Red]

Make the net pot lip wider to accommodate the opening you want and use plastic fasteners. 4 twist locks or thumb screws for easy removal.

You're going to need to seal the underside of the net pot lip or it'll push moisture through the underside. You're going to have that problem with your twistlock collar unless you install a pressure relief valve on the top of the reservoir that equalizes the pressure inside the rez.

I really appreciate the feedback, designing by yourself in the basement dungeon can be a bit of an echo chamber.

There are actually multiple things I am trying to address here. I want to use these both in my fog and RDWC systems. I want to start with a common size netpot in the fog cloner which can then be transferred to any grow system. Veg, RDWC, fog. They all have slightly different requirements. For example in the fog I want them air tight to hold in the O2 being injected. It’s pretty much impossible to pressurize the whole res but I would if I could to take advantage of higher O2 sats under pressure.

Then there is the fix SLG mentioned. We both have that problem. For a while new lids for the square buckets were on indefinite back order and I wanted a smaller netpot. But truth is I have since learned that you still need the larger hole to pass the roots thru once plants become full size so a new lid with a small hole would just be a different problem.

What I want is a system that works everywhere in my farm and provides a large hole to pass roots, mechanical strength to firmly hold the small netpot, an air tite seal, a series of mount points for LST, and quick release without tools to get access to the roots. Oh and everything printed out of ASA plastic so no rust or metals in the water and the UV stability provided by ASA. I have ditched my PETG and PLA for these parts due to UV in the growspace.

I have it mostly done but always open to ideas.

 

[Madmax]

I’d like slg to get 14 oz minimum. But I’m calling 13 if you want to start a poll.

Haha…Ok then..I’m in ..I’ll go 8 ozzies.I’ll bet half a pk of Winnie blues and 2pks of hermie prone seeds

 

[Moe.Red]

Haha…Ok then..I’m in ..I’ll go 8 ozzies.I’ll bet half a pk of Winnie blues and 2pks of hermie prone seeds

Ok let’s make this official. I win, I get nanners. You win? I guess I’ll send you a pile of roaches?

 

[Aqua Man]

I really appreciate the feedback, designing by yourself in the basement dungeon can be a bit of an echo chamber.

There are actually multiple things I am trying to address here. I want to use these both in my fog and RDWC systems. I want to start with a common size netpot in the fog cloner which can then be transferred to any grow system. Veg, RDWC, fog. They all have slightly different requirements. For example in the fog I want them air tight to hold in the O2 being injected. It’s pretty much impossible to pressurize the whole res but I would if I could to take advantage of higher O2 sats under pressure.

Then there is the fix SLG mentioned. We both have that problem. For a while new lids for the square buckets were on indefinite back order and I wanted a smaller netpot. But truth is I have since learned that you still need the larger hole to pass the roots thru once plants become full size so a new lid with a small hole would just be a different problem.

What I want is a system that works everywhere in my farm and provides a large hole to pass roots, mechanical strength to firmly hold the small netpot, an air tite seal, a series of mount points for LST, and quick release without tools to get access to the roots. Oh and everything printed out of ASA plastic so no rust or metals in the water and the UV stability provided by ASA. I have ditched my PETG and PLA for these parts due to UV in the growspace.

I have it mostly done but always open to ideas.

A lare spacer ring will provide stability to a small net pot allowling a big hole with a small net pot. This will add stability also.

a super fine mesh liner will prevent media from passing through the large holes Yet easily allow root to rip through it. the outer edge of the spacer ring lined with eye hooks for training tie down spots.

A spacer ring that fits the inside lip of the lids perfectly would be best imo but will require more material

 

[Moe.Red]

A lare spacer ring will provide stability to a small net pot allowling a big hole with a small net pot. This will add stability also.

a super fine mesh liner will prevent media from passing through the large holes Yet easily allow root to rip through it. the outer edge of the spacer ring lined with eye hooks for training tie down spots.

A spacer ring that fits the inside lip of the lids perfectly would be best imo but will require more material

Hopefully you are feeling better and the move / job is all good man.

 

[Aqua Man]

Hopefully you are feeling better and the move / job is all good man.

Getting there think i had that respiratory virus. Loving work , thanks bro

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

Looking killer

 

[Moe.Red]

Hey SLG, I got busy this weekend and did not get back to you. Here is what I wanted to convey:

DMSO, or dimethyl sulfoxide, is a by-product of paper making. It comes from a substance found in wood.

DMSO has been used as an industrial solvent since the mid-1800s. From about the mid-20th century, researchers have explored its use as an anti-inflammatory agent.

The FDA has approved DMSO as a prescription medication for treating symptoms of painful bladder syndrome. It's also used under medical supervision to treat several other conditions, including shingles.

DMSO is easily absorbed by the skin. It's sometimes used to increase the body's absorption of other medications.

DMSO is available without a prescription most often in gel or cream form. It can be purchased in health food stores, by mail order, and on the Internet.

While it can sometimes be found as an oral supplement, its safety is unclear. DMSO is primarily used by applying it to the skin.





When you get a patch like my wife uses for sea sickness, DMSO is in there pushing the meds into your bloodstream via the skin. Here is some info on transdermal patches:





What Is A THC Patch?
Put simply, a THC patch is a thin piece of plastic coated with adhesive (like a Band-aid™) and infused with the cannabinoid THC. Because of the way they work, THC patches can offer all-day or all-night relief to those suffering from chronic issues like pain and anxiety.

To get this relief, you simply apply the THC patch to a venous part of your body, like your ankle, your arm, or the inside of your wrist. Your body heat activates the patch and causes it to release a small amount of THC through your skin and into your bloodstream.

We’ll get into the specifics of how the THC patch works in just a moment. Now, we’re going to answer the question on everyone’s mind: will a THC patch get you high?

Will A THC Patch Get You High?
The short answer is no. A THC patch won’t get you high because your body absorbs the cannabinoid slowly over a number of hours rather than all at once (like it is when you smoke or dab). This is great news for those who need THC’s medicinal effects without the intense psychoactive high.

So as you can probably guess, THC patches are not for those who want to go flying in a Blue Dream. Instead, they’re for those with real medical issues who need the healing effects of THC.

For the recreational user who enjoys a bit of couchlock now and again, your best bet is still a strong weed strain and a movie from this list. Leave the patches for those who need them, and try a Thai stick or some moon rock weed instead.

How Do Transdermal THC Patches Work?
We’re going to drop some science, son, but don’t let that scare you off. THC patches provide a unique method of cannabinoid delivery, and it’s essential that you understand how they work. So buckle up; here we go.

When you apply a THC patch to your skin, you set up a drug concentration gradient. That just means that at one point (in the patch), there’s a lot of the cannabinoid, while at another point (in your skin), there’s not a lot of the cannabinoid.

When your skin’s heat activates the patch, the cannabinoid begins to spread out into your skin (this is technically known as “moving down the gradient”). This concept is very much like pouring boiling water into a coffee mug and leaving it sitting on your counter.

The hot water contains a lot of heat (212℉ worth), while the atmosphere around it doesn’t. Because of this difference (the gradient), the heat naturally “spreads out” into the air around it.

As the drug moves further into your skin, it’s absorbed into your bloodstream and transported to your brain and throughout your body. The nice thing about transdermal delivery is that it bypasses your lungs, liver, and stomach (places where the cannabinoid is filtered or broken down). That means you get 100 percent of the medicinal value of the THC.



Now in there it says it will not get you high, but that is just a matter of dosage.

Using this

And this

With an extract (needs to be clean, RSO may be problematic) you can push a low to high level of cannabinoids into your bloodstream all day long. This process avoids the need for dosing, and bypasses lungs as well as liver or digestive involvement.

Instead of suppositories, this might be an option for you. We would just need to look closely at your extract for purity. The problem is that DMSO will push everything into your skin, including soap or oils on your skin, chlorophyll, and anything else in your RSO that your digestive system would normally filter out for you.

You can buy transdermal patches in dispensaries too if you find the right one.

 

[Moe.Red]

This image, 7:00. Something on the leaf that is white, then the leaf starts getting dark after. What is that? Hoping physical damage that has severed the vein caused by you, not a pest.

Still throwing new white pistils?

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

This image, 7:00. Something on the leaf that is white, then the leaf starts getting dark after. What is that? Hoping physical damage that has severed the vein caused by you, not a pest.

Yea, that was me getting in there and trimming, I know, you'd never know Same thing happened on one other leaflet and they both turned purple, I'm guessing a sign of what is to come with this strain, seen lots of color in the photos at the DFG website. Thanks for checking in on that.

Still throwing new white pistils?

Ya know, if she is, it's very few. Many are turning rust now, even on the lower flowers.

I'm thinking it may be time to amend the res, ppm's are down to around 500 and she is drinking about a gallon a day now. Pretty sure I need to consider her a light feeder and been riding around 600 up to this point. I thought that was very close to being too much but from what I could tell, that was a good number. Little bits of tip burn, the dark green went away for the most part.

As far as amending, from what I can tell, I do not want to add any more green. If I had to wing it, with what I do know at this point, I would add a gallons worth of brown and pink at a week 6 ratio, then check ppm, aim for that 600 mark. Not quite at that 6 week mark from flower onset, but close enough.

My other option that I thought might be the way to go is to change out the res. I must confess, I have not recorded every top off and when I missed a few I said f it, but I figure I am about at that 14 gallon mark. I'd rather not change it as the buffer has been excellent but it should probably be done soon. I'm almost done with the cabinets/counter tops in kitchen and when I get that done I can take a break and do that. Right now I am pooped, but feeling pretty good for the amount of work I've been doing...having a pretty good week so far. If I end up changing out the res, I will just do week 6 ratios and aim for that 600 ppm mark. Additionally, I would imagine that would be the last time I would do any amendments to the res to let that ppm drop off the last couple of weeks. This grow has been a great learning experience, looking forward to finishing strong.

Thanks for the info on the patches @Moe.Red. I will study that when I have a bit more time and I am not so tired and get back to you, thank you!

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

I have not done anything in this res yet, was hoping I could go the distance without changing out the res, not sure if that is a good idea. This morning I noticed what looks to be a very slight deficiency on a couple of the fans.

@Moe.Red, if I change out the res today/tomorrow, do you suggest using week 6 ratios? My gut says change the res one more time, get the bloom ratios spot on and cruise to the finish line. Thoughts?

Going by onset of flower (~Dec 1), I'm very close to that 6 week mark at this point. Jeff says she should go 9 weeks, going to try to go as far as I can since I am not hurting for medicine at this time.

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

Here are a couple of current flower pics for reference.