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^^^^ I stand corrected. Thanks RMCG. And I thought I read somewhere it was used in place of water to increase the efficiency of the system. I wonder what I was thinking of :thinking
hey Ben the room looks silly good bro
I think that lil tip burn is calcium deficiency caused by high levels of PK and rapid growth, it happens a lot of rdwc.
Ive been finding if I dont add cal-mg at the same time I start adding bloom boosters Ill get the burn even at low PPms
Hey Ben, had a couple of questions about this whole coil setup, if you didn't mind.
1) Do you use pure propylene glycol in your "cooling rez", or is it some mixture of water and PG? Because for a 200 gallon rez @$30/gallon, that's a shitload of PG.
2) I know it's moronic for me to suggest something to you, but you said that you have valves that you open and close to control your "satellite" rez temps - would it not be easier to just hook up one of the controllers below to a pump feeding each "satellite" rez and be able to "set it and forget it"?
http://www.etcsupply.com/
Have been thinking about the cooling coils for a few weeks now, and figured that'd be the easiest way to control the temps in multiple reservoirs..........that said, obviously you're getting along okay with what you're doing :sun
Anyways, keep up the good show my friend :bong2:
EDIT: Another question, if you wouldn't mind:
Is there any kind of general rule of thumb for how much cooler PG would keep a rez than water would? For instance, I have a crawlspace that maxes out (in the dead of summer) at ~68F - figure a 250 gallon reservoir of water would stay at 65F pretty easily - how much cooler would it be with PG?
Or does the PG allow the reservoir to maintain its cool temp for longer periods, and not necessarily allow it to "get cooler" than a comparable rez filled with water?
Sorry for the long-winded questions; they're kinda my trademark :dull
Depending on if you run your chiller/plumbing outside in northern climates, I am not sure you ~need~ glycol. And you certainly wouldn't want to run it 100% unless you live in a VERY cold climate. Its essentially antifreeze.
Between 10 - 20% is normal.
Something like 40% is if your outdoor temps are regularly ~20 below and your chiller/lines are outside.
It does reduce the heat transfer efficiency slightly over H20, but does help lube the pump.
Here is the heat transfer coefficient of various %'s of PG.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/propylene-glycol-d_363.html
Is there any reason not to run 1 big epicenter with a larger reservoir rather then running 2 smaller ones, if the plants are getting the same food and are the same genetics?
Wow you have an amazing set up!!I have a large facility I am in the process of building. I will be growing in a few mediums at first. Coco and soiless is what I do now. I would like to try UC though. I will be posting some pics and my ideas for designs in the dream build section or whatever it is called.. I would really like some feed back from you if you get the time. I will try and build a thread tonight.
hi Ben, nice grow here. I'm trying to do some research on House & Garden Nutrients. Could you read what your label says on them?
For Aqua Flakes, I think there are a few different formulas,
pt A 3.1-0-3.4
pt B 1.5-3.4-6.5
but I think they have been changing their formula, so curious if this is the most up to date one? Their website doesn't list any info like that.
Ben been goin back over your thread and I very impressed with your design and construction skills. Did you do this all yourself? If so wanna build mine ;)?
The ladies are lookin real nice look forward to the end result. Can't wait till I get my UC up. The results I keep seeing are crazy.
The cool air you pull in for the lights does it come from an ac room or outside?
It is absolutely mixed with water.
You want to run as little glycol as possible because it reduces the heat transfer properties of the water. The higher the percentage of glycol in the system, the less efficient the system will be.
PG is used to ~prevent~ freezing or allows water to get colder before slushing.
The 'self-contained' Chill King chillers run with a 20G sealed/insulated reservoir. You shouldn't need more than that.
If your chiller/reservoir is set to maintain 58* and your condenser is inside, you should not use it.
If your condenser/plumbing is outside (in the winter) then mix the appropriate % of H20 and glycol to be have a freezing point of 20* less than ambient.
Even 30%/70% PG/H20 by Volume has a freezing point 9.2* F, so if your set up is inside and you keep your chiller at something normal, you don't need it.
I could see someone using it with a DIY Window A/C chiller that isn't on a temp controller and just allowed to 'run wild' (they will freeze up!) or if you were experimenting with cryogenics or laboratory process/laser chilling, but a temp controller would probably be cheaper in the long run.
If you were going to want to run anything, it would be something like 'Water Wetter' which INCREASES the heat transfer properties of water.
Note: This is NOT a FOOD SAFE product (like PG), so you cannot have any leaks to allow it to get in to the nute res's.
Ben if your are still trying to figure out how to do multiple rezs at different temps I have an answer. Use solenoid valves and thermostats that control the valves for each coil. Could use tstat to control power to outlet to start and stop pumps and open and close solenoid valve.
That's exactly how Hydro Innovations new cool coil thermostats work from what I understand.....
Canna John, you work for H.I. bro?