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Do you drain the water back to the well to reclaim it?
No. I would if I could, but that is not a practical solution for me in my position.Do you drain the water back to the well to reclaim it?
homie gotta get you a chiller.... though you have a pretty good ole MacG setup.I am on a well. I pour water from the faucet in a shower into a 5 gal bucket constantly. Then I pump this cold water through 1/2" tubing to a heater core radiator that has been foil-taped and bungie-corded to the back end of an 8" blower from Harbor Freight.
Cools 2 or 3 aircooled 1ks plus ballasts. Put the blower on a timer, otherwise it gets too cold at night.
Me too. What if the cistern was on a slab in a room that stayed at outside winter temps? Collected rainwater could replace some of the well-duty.I have often wondered how large of a body of water it would take in a sealed-ish container buried in the earth to use as a heat sink for water-cooling.
if it gets cold outside you can rig a chiller coil real easy just need a pump, brine, and copper tubing, or even better glycol!Me too. What if the cistern was on a slab in a room that stayed at outside winter temps? Collected rainwater could replace some of the well-duty.
itll take a lil math and will have to be dialed in, but less glycol at colder temps=more cooling power and less strain on equip. all very good things. even brine is better than straight h20, just make sure they are salt water rated chillers.fwiwhow much gly-coolant per __?
I have a big automotive radiator that I will mate to that burly $100 fan from home depot when I get off my ass. That would cool the shit out of my room.homie gotta get you a chiller.... though you have a pretty good ole MacG setup.
i wonder if the compressorless would work esp w/ a cold water source hmmmm?
Theoretically yes that is a good solution.sorry to derail this thread a bit, but what about using a swamp cooler in this situation. Cools down the room and add RH as well.
swamp cooler ie evap coolers add water to the air thereby lowering the temp in some cases, and of course raise RH avoiding vpdsorry to derail this thread a bit, but what about using a swamp cooler in this situation. Cools down the room and add RH as well.
sometimes the like button just doesn't express my true feelings <sigh>it affects energy substrates including triglycerides, glucose, amino acids, free radicals and even estrogen
What was that from again? Was I copying and pasting all high again?sometimes the like button just doesn't express my true feelings <sigh>
I am on a well. I pour water from the faucet in a shower into a 5 gal bucket constantly. Then I pump this cold water through 1/2" tubing to a heater core radiator that has been foil-taped and bungie-corded to the back end of an 8" blower from Harbor Freight.
Cools 2 or 3 aircooled 1ks plus ballasts. Put the blower on a timer, otherwise it gets too cold at night.
swamp cooler ie evap coolers add water to the air thereby lowering the temp in some cases, and of course raise RH avoiding vpd
how about if 750gal 6" deep spread over cold 10x20 slab under subfloor? or even 1500 / 12" if necessary.The problem with a cistern is a lack of surface area; the larger your tank, the smaller the ratio of surface area to volume, which slows down the rate of heat transfer.
Though more efficient to push hot air through the cold radiator, I cannot do that because it would blow the foil tape seal off.
My solution is really halfass, it requires suction to keep the seal intact.
how about if 750gal 6" deep spread over cold 10x20 slab under subfloor? or even 1500 / 12" if necessary.
haha, not basement, damn that would be sketch. house-float? just thinking to frame in a subfloor with pond-liner(s) on a ground-floor slab, maybe add swim-spa while I'm at it.as long as fulling your basement full of water doesn't destroy your foundation I'd say go for it.