Captspaulding
Whatโs the matter? Donโt like clowns? ๐คก
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I can appreciate your tenacity good sirHowdy, and if I haven't said it before, welcome to the Farm!
So first of all your tap water, where does it come from? Town water, well water? 300 ppm to start, doing hydro, is probably half of your problem. I would venture to guess you also have root issues. Are you able to check the roots? How do they look? Are they bright white and clean looking, or are they slimy and brownish? This looks to me like a case of root rot combined with or resulting in nutrient lockouts.
Let me know and we'll work from there! Don't give up, we're here to help
Bob has had some month......How will I ever make it up to you bob?
โJoints for eternityโ
A Phd-level courseI always say mistakes arenโt really mistakes, your just learning what NOT to do, but I mean damn brotherโฆ..
There are a few things I'm looking to try this year in the last month + to give the outdoor plants a better chance, prevent problems, and maybe extend the season 2-4 weeks. Up here that means Sept 1st to Oct 1st + ??. Anything beyond Oct 1st is sheer luck of the weather. Last year I got to harvest my tester plants Nov 1st, which is highly unusual. It was a late, warm fall.When I grew outdoors , when they flowered and it rained I would go shake the water out of the flower or more times than not , it caused bud rot
The blower is actually a really great idea, any outdoor I did in Philly back in the day, it was always croptober 2nd or 3rd week no questions. It gets crazy dry and wicked cold. I canโt imagine your neck of the woods being much different.There are a few things I'm looking to try this year in the last month + to give the outdoor plants a better chance, prevent problems, and maybe extend the season 2-4 weeks. Up here that means Sept 1st to Oct 1st + ??. Anything beyond Oct 1st is sheer luck of the weather. Last year I got to harvest my tester plants Nov 1st, which is highly unusual. It was a late, warm fall.
The first is makeshift umbrellas/domes that I can rather quickly put over the plants to shield them from rain. Maybe if I already have poles in the ground. If I can keep most of the late season rains off of them that could be one help.
One or two of those jet/heat guns that can be pointed at the plants during particularly cold, wet weather, morning frosts......if I can raise the immediate temps around the plants 4, 6 degrees? and I can get them through 25+ degree nights......maybe instead of being forced to harvest October 10th I can squeeze out 2 or 3 more weeks....
A leaf blower. After rains, dew, high humidity, if I can dry them off, create a nice breeze, maybe I can prevent mildew, mold, fungus, bud rot....
All of these things together, if I can get them an extra 2, 3, 4 weeks.......it could make a huge difference in ripeness, when others have harvested Sept 20th, and I stretched to Oct 20th or later, if I could even get a pure sativa to Nov 15th with a bit of luck/help from the weather, it could be a big score.
Nobody khow ?@aqua_man
I've never tested runoff.......of course, I try not to get runoff. The upside is not washing nutrients away. The downside is that everything builds up. It will be very interesting to see if I can both get the Ph down a bit and feed over the next couple of months. I'm going to learn a lot from this grow, there are about a dozen things I'm doing/adding that I've never done before. Amendments, additions.......there's a lot of new ground and a lot of things that are either going to work well, or that I'll have to change or scrap......and it's all going to happen in real time.I agree , I use organic and don't check ph until flowering . Then I check ph and ppm and see how it compares to my runoff to see how the plants are eating. I was at 750 ppm and run off came back at 100. That's when I went to 1000 ppm and everything is fine. No leaf burn and alls looking good. Getting crystals on a couple and I just started on fourth week of a eleven week (or close to it) flowering cycle.
Yeah we're not only close to Montreal, we're up about 1,500ft in elevation. Frost in September is normal, and snow in October is normal. It can get and stay below 0 in the winter for a couple of days and -20 isn't unusual.The blower is actually a really great idea, any outdoor I did in Philly back in the day, it was always croptober 2nd or 3rd week no questions. It gets crazy dry and wicked cold. I canโt imagine your neck of the woods being much different.
Maybe if they were all trimmed down then properly re-vegged? That would be interesting and could be better than scrapping it all and planting new seeds......As everyone else said there are reveging while I guess being feed bloom nutes.
Sort out the light problem and post what your feeding ok they will be funky af however you could save it. It will take time to revert back to flower and there is a risk of it going hermi honestly thou as bad as they look they are salvageable
they are sick . i dont know because of whatWe need Weedoxic, to find out why
Their plants look very toxic.
And if that's their profile pic.... ;)
And Weedoxic, believe me, silliness aside we would love to help you solve all of this. It looks like there's no saving this grow, but on the positive side, it's an opportunity for you to hit the reset button and rethink all of the different parts of growing. Give yourself a fresh start. And maybe the best way to do it is to take all of this, go back to square one (yeah, reading a few of the classic grow books is a great idea), and start from scratch......in a much simpler way. Looking at the pictures of your setup, it kind of looks like a spaceship. There's a lot going on......to the point where it's almost an unnatural environment. Whether or not you want to try just good old soil, just hit the basics and put all of the complex stuff aside, at least for a few grows........regular pots, good soil, a good light, regular water, get the temp and humidity right, a fan....zero nutrients for the first month, until they give you signs they're ready. And a regular room/closet/tent with air flow, not every square inch covered in reflective material......start simple, buikd from there.
Trial by fire. Might be the best thing.
Ok. So these plants were in relative health till the flip?they are sick . i dont know because of what
defecincy or lighting or excess nurtients or root rot or fucking what !
look their last pics befor flowering :
Before flowering
View attachment 1996644View attachment 1996645View attachment 1996646
This is a tough one, and the damage is so deep and pervasive......on one hand, more information. But a virus or blight? A combination of dark cycle interrupted plus root damage....?Iโve read through the whole thread before commenting. @WeeDoxic you said your light was at 100%, but how high above the tops is your light? Some of the higher leaf damage looks like light damage Iโve seen. Which sometimes results in Ca deficiency, which looks like some of your leaf damage. Foxtailing fits right in with this hypothesis, too. Excessive light stress.
Or it could be what everyone else said it is! LOL
Nah, probably root rot and other stuff. But do check your light height.
We have added weeks to our grow season at a low cost. Moved all the plants so they were close together. Took 1/2 pvc pipe and made hoop house with 6mill clear plastic over plants the plants 1 hoop house had 6 large plants under it the other two had 4 plants each. Then we took 1 1/2 inch pvc and built a big hoop house over all three of the smaller hoop houses covered with 6mill clear plastic. We put a small 1500 watt heater inbetween the two hoop house. Finished budding in mid November could have grown into December if we would have to. Did use a hand blower to remove snow 2 times less than 2 inches. Put it all up in the garage and used it 2 more years. Then the wife tossed in her 2 cents and we started growing outside a good month early using the hoop houses. Now I live in Virginia and we have a long grow season.There are a few things I'm looking to try this year in the last month + to give the outdoor plants a better chance, prevent problems, and maybe extend the season 2-4 weeks. Up here that means Sept 1st to Oct 1st + ??. Anything beyond Oct 1st is sheer luck of the weather. Last year I got to harvest my tester plants Nov 1st, which is highly unusual. It was a late, warm fall.
The first is makeshift umbrellas/domes that I can rather quickly put over the plants to shield them from rain. Maybe if I already have poles in the ground. If I can keep most of the late season rains off of them that could be one help.
One or two of those jet/heat guns that can be pointed at the plants during particularly cold, wet weather, morning frosts......if I can raise the immediate temps around the plants 4, 6 degrees? and I can get them through 25+ degree nights......maybe instead of being forced to harvest October 10th I can squeeze out 2 or 3 more weeks....
A leaf blower. After rains, dew, high humidity, if I can dry them off, create a nice breeze, maybe I can prevent mildew, mold, fungus, bud rot....
All of these things together, if I can get them an extra 2, 3, 4 weeks.......it could make a huge difference in ripeness, when others have harvested Sept 20th, and I stretched to Oct 20th or later, if I could even get a pure sativa to Nov 15th with a bit of luck/help from the weather, it could be a big score.
We have added weeks to our grow season at a low cost. Moved all the plants so they were close together. Took 1/2 pvc pipe and made hoop house with 6mill clear plastic over plants the plants 1 hoop house had 6 large plants under it the other two had 4 plants each. Then we took 1 1/2 inch pvc and built a big hoop house over all three of the smaller hoop houses covered with 6mill clear plastic. We put a small 1500 watt heater inbetween the two hoop house. Finished budding in mid November could have grown into December if we would have to. Did use a hand blower to remove snow 2 times less than 2 inches. Put it all up in the garage and used it 2 more years. Then the wife tossed in h
You could be correct with ph ranges because it was many years ago I discovered this and need a revisit myself. But I know it definitely helps.That's interesting......I agree that for us soil growers we shouldn't get crazy about Ph. I didn't even bother measuring mine until 2 weeks into flowering. But as we start adding nutrients, after many waterings, it's good to see if the Ph needs to come down a bit......and not by overreacting, but by easing in to it.
But that's interesting.......letting the Ph fluctuate to allow different nutrients to better absorb. And of course that's true. There is no "one perfect Ph", so that could be a very good idea. I'd have to check the numbers on all the nutrients, but is 7 a little high? As opposed to fluctuating between like 5.6 and 6.6?
i made all . but how it happened after veg stage ? in flowering all things became shitty ?! is it possible ?I'm trying to find pics of your system. It's looks "unconventional". Did you build it? Did you buy any parts at the dollar store or a shitty surplus store?
There are lots of cheap plastics that will react with certain chemicals and whatnot. Show us a detailed pic of your setup.
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