4 600s or 3 1000s

[Shady]

Ahh I see now... Hmm, it will be interesting to see what happens... I'll say it again for my own piece of mind... Access is very important in case things go wrong such as plant adjustment, screen adjustment, potential PM with need for spraying, etc. Not to mention we won't get to see the eye candy... :thinking

 

[Bobby Smith]

Oh no, I can get in there if needed - just a pain in the ass and will be a tight squeeze, but there's definitely an opening that I can fit into (and since I'm on a diet, will hopefully get easier in the next few weeks).

Bud shots won't be an issue, trust me :)

Stoked to get this project off the ground.

 

[gudkarma]

i like the smaller version WAY more... even more efficient.

think about my space, i wonder if you could get it into a 4' diameter.

a few less plant & use lights with less wattage?

interesting... i'm listening.

i still dont see where you get to have a life with this system but i do love it nonetheless.

so you have a mister at each tube opening?

since i read the link to the magic box, let me see better pics of your BASIC dynamics.

i'd like to do HP small scale but larger plants (scrog for me, tree for you) i'm trying to learn from your mistake if you dont mind :-)

hopefully i can do a three plant HP set up on a budget.

we'll see...

 

[Bobby Smith]

The reason I "over-build" ("over-engineer") is so that the systems are as automated as possible and I don't need to be in there very often - after the first week or two when I'm confident that the system is working, probably won't check it more than two or three times a week for a few minutes at a time.

Yeah, you could do 3" columns with a 2" base and use either 250s or 400s and that would work great (I'd think).

And no, two misters per column - one at the top of the column, one in the middle serving the bottom three plants (protected by a sun screen so roots from the top plants don't block it).

And what do you mean "basic dynamics"? Not really sure what you're asking there.

 

[gudkarma]

when i think of the pressure you're using & the material(s) required to build HP aero, immediately i think of fuel injection.

the pressures & the principals are nearly the same ==> get mad atomization

regarding basic dynamics, i'm interested in how you are putting these pieces together... and how they serve their purpose in the grand scheme.

i can learn that ...& ask questions as you go.

didn't know you were using two misters per column.

nevertheless, i'm gonna re-read that hp aero thread tonight.

 

[Bobby Smith]

Ahh, gotcha - it's actually pretty simple, in all honesty (was surprising to me when I learned that as well) - all those plumbing parts on the front make it look overly complicated, but it's really not.

Pressure switch (100 cut in, 125 cut out) controls the pump..............anytime pressure in the system is less than 100, the pump will be running.............pumps water into the accumulator (and all tubing before the solenoids), building pressure..........then, that timer controls four solenoids (two per each level) which will open every five minutes for a half or whole second (numbers are guesstimates, obviously need to run it and see first).

And that's really about it..........there's a pressure relief valve, but that's super overkill - not only is there the external pressure switch I bought, but the pump has its own internal pressure switch as well (115 cut in, 150 cut out), so the odds of both of those malfunctioning enough to surpass 150PSI are very, very remote.

And a real good summary thread of how everything works is the "UC vs. Aeroponics" thread on here - a much shorter thread and really lays out the basics pretty well.

 

[Tobor the 8th Man]

If Thomas Edison grew weed his grow would look like Bobby's.

Way cool Bobby!

 

[Bobby Smith]

Lol, thanks bro..........pretty Thomas Edison's device would work, whereas the jury is still out on mine (but I've got my fingers crossed :) ).

 

[RMCG]

Lol, thanks bro..........pretty Thomas Edison's device would work, whereas the jury is still out on mine (but I've got my fingers crossed :) ).

For a guy that didn't think he could wire a temp controller, you did great work!

 

[Bobby Smith]

Thanks bro :)

It's amazing how much time all the little shit takes to finish up.........something that you'd think would take five minutes all of a sudden takes a few hours.

Still grinding though.......

 

[Kaiser Puff]

Looking good Bobby! Your work caught my eye on the UC vs Aero thread, I love your DIY colli so much I think I'm building one. :D I have a GroBot so I think your design is the best way to start LP/NFT and convert to HP. What I wanted was a bare bulb 1k around 4 trees in a UC/RDWC and a quick-zero veg SOG running off 1 GroBot controlled res. A half size version of your setup is perfect and doubling it later on is easy if needed. Do you think a single 1k would work in a 3 level version?

 

[kdog]

i used to be all over the six hundreds. 2 grows ago id hA1VE SAID 4 600S. BUT I WANT LARGER DENSER BUDS AND I GROW 20 AT A TIME IN A 10 FOOT BY 10 FOOT SPACE...SO IMO ID GO WITH THE 3 1000S

 

[Bobby Smith]

Looking good Bobby! Your work caught my eye on the UC vs Aero thread, I love your DIY colli so much I think I'm building one. :D I have a GroBot so I think your design is the best way to start LP/NFT and convert to HP. What I wanted was a bare bulb 1k around 4 trees in a UC/RDWC and a quick-zero veg SOG running off 1 GroBot controlled res. A half size version of your setup is perfect and doubling it later on is easy if needed. Do you think a single 1k would work in a 3 level version?

Yeah, I don't see why not - that being said, the more lights, the more efficient it is and the more even the lighting is throughout the canopy - better to have more small lights than fewer large lights, all else equal.

I got rid of my 1Ks when I designed my new setup, so I can't take any light readings for you, but if you can get light readings off of a vertical bulb, I can give you the dimensions of both my 4" base setup and my new 3" base setup and you can work from there - that being said, I'd recommend the 3" base if only use the (1) 1K bulb - however, if I was gonna run 4 1Ks vertically in my cooltube, I'd have stayed with the larger 4" base diameter.

If you're handy at all, there are a lot more options open to you - if I knew when I started what I know now, I'd definitely do a fair number of things differently (and save lots of money).

Kdog, you're about a half year late on your recommendation.

Had 10 clones in the system for the past couple of days and they didn't die, so I filled that motherfucker up today - have lights 1 & 3 (from the bottom) on at 75% intensity, so 900 total watts going.

76F, 63% RH, CO2 @400-600PPMs, 5.5pH, 300PPMs.

Some of the clones are better than others, so I'm hoping for a two week veg before I start flowering - still debating whether or not to be a screen in there..........decisions, decisions.

EDIT: took pics today but want to wait to make sure all the clones live before I post them :)

 

[gudkarma]

fill the thing up & run it already :-)

less data & more green leafy things...

 

[Bobby Smith]

fill the thing up & run it already :-)

less data & more green leafy things...

I'm trying bro, I'm trying :)

Fingers crossed.........already have 50 things I'm gonna change for next run, but I'm gonna do my best to make it work this run.

 

[Kaiser Puff]

Yeah, I don't see why not - that being said, the more lights, the more efficient it is and the more even the lighting is throughout the canopy - better to have more small lights than fewer large lights, all else equal.

I got rid of my 1Ks when I designed my new setup, so I can't take any light readings for you, but if you can get light readings off of a vertical bulb, I can give you the dimensions of both my 4" base setup and my new 3" base setup and you can work from there - that being said, I'd recommend the 3" base if only use the (1) 1K bulb - however, if I was gonna run 4 1Ks vertically in my cooltube, I'd have stayed with the larger 4" base diameter.

If you're handy at all, there are a lot more options open to you - if I knew when I started what I know now, I'd definitely do a fair number of things differently (and save lots of money).

Kdog, you're about a half year late on your recommendation.

Had 10 clones in the system for the past couple of days and they didn't die, so I filled that motherfucker up today - have lights 1 & 3 (from the bottom) on at 75% intensity, so 900 total watts going.

76F, 63% RH, CO2 @400-600PPMs, 5.5pH, 300PPMs.

Some of the clones are better than others, so I'm hoping for a two week veg before I start flowering - still debating whether or not to be a screen in there..........decisions, decisions.

EDIT: took pics today but want to wait to make sure all the clones live before I post them :)

I wish I had more trade experience, had no idea how useful it would be. I'm figuring it out as I go though. :) I'd love to hear more about any revisions you had in mind since I'm still in the planning stages and anything that cuts costs or is timesaving is huge!

 

[gudkarma]

bro... i can get you 40 cuts easy... or we can stick to the plan.

like soon if your mother material aint right.

like real soon.

of course, you'll need to root them.

are you running a heater (fish tank, heating pad) of some kind in (under) your cloner?

the day i put one in mine & set the temp to 76... had beards in 3 to 5 days.

how about : we meet, switch, fat bag o' cuts, boom you go straight to your crib w/ cut tools waiting.

shoot for mid/later in the week cause i got to drop a tray on monday & clean rezzys & clean cloners & take cuts for myself.

how's that ebb & flow & lid combo working?

very curious i am?

 

[Bobby Smith]

Still haven't put plants in the E&F setup (aside from a short test); been focusing 100% on getting the octagon setup so the veg tent has taken a backseat.

Cloner wasn't a temp issue, was simply not 100% clean, which is murder for those things.

Just ran in and checked, plants seem to be doing fine, so I'm good on cuts for the moment - definitely looking for those strains, but one or two of each should be fine to let me get setup for next run.

Kaiser, I'm as unhandy as they come and I got it setup - it's really pretty easy, but there are much better ways to do it than the way that I did - it really depends on what you're looking to do - what's your *final* plan for your setup? I.e., what are you looking to accomplish?

 

[Kaiser Puff]

Still haven't put plants in the E&F setup (aside from a short test); been focusing 100% on getting the octagon setup so the veg tent has taken a backseat.

Cloner wasn't a temp issue, was simply not 100% clean, which is murder for those things.

Just ran in and checked, plants seem to be doing fine, so I'm good on cuts for the moment - definitely looking for those strains, but one or two of each should be fine to let me get setup for next run.

Kaiser, I'm as unhandy as they come and I got it setup - it's really pretty easy, but there are much better ways to do it than the way that I did - it really depends on what you're looking to do - what's your *final* plan for your setup? I.e., what are you looking to accomplish?

You should know, there's never a *final* plan :evilgrin0040:

I'm on hiatus right now, wanted to start off with a low/no veg SOG to get things rolling again while also vegging/growing out some big plants. I figured the best way to make the most out of the GroBot is to have it maintain a large ressy that can feed multiple systems on a simplified feeding schedule. I was going to copy a UC13 4XXL around a 1k for the trees, but it's all up in the air.

 

[Bobby Smith]

If the lights are *negotiable*, I think two 600s for a four level system would be awesome (and might be what I go to in the summer time, if I run at all, or might be what I go to fulltime, depending on how comfy I am with my electricity usage - already contemplating running a flip flop for this run).

You could put together a system of all 3" parts for ~$600, not including lights, pump, rezzy, etc.

60 wyes @$5.5, 30' of 3" tubing @$10, 15 Tees @$4, and 15 22.5s @$4, 15 Quik caps @$5, then the plumbing (tubing and sprinkler heads) for ~$50.

It's really easy, as long as you have a saw to cut the PVC - I bought a $200 DeWalt saw just for that purpose, works great.

After cutting the PVC it's just glueing shit together, simple..........just make sure, make sure, make sure you double check before glueing anything - I wasted several hundred dollars with careless glueing fuckups that could've easily been avoided.