Boomer's Ocean Grown 5k watt ScrOG Lab w/ c02

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Integra21

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My Kush Scrogs turn out great. Just gotta match the numer of pantas and how much they stretch to your screen. The only plants I think are truly bad for scrogs are autoflowers. I generally run low plant numbers in my dwc tub with decent results. And on the other nore, jacks sysytem is nuts, and I flush my dwc for 3-5 days. I do a 12hr clearex run and then strait ro for the rest.
 
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Boomer242

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Yeah, that'd do the trick as well - honestly (again, shooting from the hip as we're over the Internet), I'm saying the overwhelming majority is light shock.

id have to agree. i went ahead and put the lights up to 18" away from the canopy. should that be high enough? and i plan to turn on the two outside lights and leave the middle off for a couple days.
 
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Boomer242

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A bit late on this, but better late than never. I agree and disagree with this. My Blackberry Kush stretched out quite a bit as well, but I am really glad I scrogged it. I am going to actually have to abandon the screen I have in place and raise it so that the cola's don't fall over. Just going to cut the screen off the pvc and raise the pvc and put a new screen in with bigger holes.

But I feel the screen was really key to me getting a good canopy going on. I don't know that I will do many more scrog runs but this has been a fun ride nevertheless.

Off to finish reading your journal!:mmm

i dont wanna make the assumption that most kushes dont scorg well, im just reporting the results im seeing with my grow op method. one issue i have with my scrog is i dont veg on the scrog table. so the only "veg weaving" i actually do is with the 2week stretch of 12/12 flip. the OG BUBBA stems went hard as wood faster then my sour grapes did and that was another learning curve i didnt anticipate. so now table one is about 3' tall total for more then half.

I appreciate ur scrog input im still tryin to dial and understand everything involved with it.
i just transplanted the next 18x OG BUBBA onto table 2. they were vegged for 4 weeks and supercropped so the canopy is the most even ive had yet. theyre all just about over 12" tall. i dont know why i thought i was goin to wait til 18" tall but i dont want more 3'+ plants in a scrog. still tryin to dialing the strains in etc. doesnt help myself that i had to change strains due to losing the first mothers.
 
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Boomer242

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You would have to change things up a bit this is for the Under Current system remember each system drinks 100 gallons a day when the boosting you are running a different system so you would need a longer flush If I flushed with RO only for a week my plants would die..JACK:bong2:

good point. taking ur advice as always and modifying it to how my setup is. still good info to know for my partner who just started his UC setup and for my future setup.
 
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Boomer242

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My Kush Scrogs turn out great. Just gotta match the numer of pantas and how much they stretch to your screen. The only plants I think are truly bad for scrogs are autoflowers. I generally run low plant numbers in my dwc tub with decent results. And on the other nore, jacks sysytem is nuts, and I flush my dwc for 3-5 days. I do a 12hr clearex run and then strait ro for the rest.


ya ure scrogs are def textbook bro. my issue is not veggin and weaving since i have two seperate flower/veg rooms. im gonna make sum tweaks and see if i can make it work for me better. any suggestions?
 
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Integra21

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ya ure scrogs are def textbook bro. my issue is not veggin and weaving since i have two seperate flower/veg rooms. im gonna make sum tweaks and see if i can make it work for me better. any suggestions?

Thats how I run mine too. The Piss was the first and only plants to ever veg in the flower room. Every other run was transplant and 12/12 on the same day. Both times in the new setup had one tub with 3-4 clones about 16-18" when they went in and the other tub has 5-6 small clones about 4-8". Here are just a couple of pics for comparison on the Blue Kush. These were them at day 4 of flower
http://www.invalid.com/members/integra21-157637-albums-5th-grow-dual-6oow-s-water-cooled-co2-piss-blue-kush-scrog-dwc-picture982342-piss-kush-day-3-10.jpg
and here is them about 48 days of 12/12 later
http://www.invalid.com/members/integra21-157637-albums-5th-grow-dual-6oow-s-water-cooled-co2-piss-blue-kush-scrog-dwc-picture1065848-piss-kush-day-52-38.jpg
I think it has a lot to do with strain for you and possibly veg time. The longest my clones have ever veged for was 5 weeks, and that wasnt actual veg of 5 weeks, thats 5 weeks from the day they were cut to 12/12. But the time on the small clones like the kush is 3 weeks, 1.5 to root and 1.5 to veg, with about 4-8 nodes per plant. I hope this helps get a little more info in your arsenal for the srog veg potentials. I always experiment around a little with every batch. So I'll try to share my observatoins when I think its relevant.
 
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Boomer242

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Thats how I run mine too. The Piss was the first and only plants to ever veg in the flower room. Every other run was transplant and 12/12 on the same day. Both times in the new setup had one tub with 3-4 clones about 16-18" when they went in and the other tub has 5-6 small clones about 4-8". Here are just a couple of pics for comparison on the Blue Kush. These were them at day 4 of flower
http://www.invalid.com/members/integra21-157637-albums-5th-grow-dual-6oow-s-water-cooled-co2-piss-blue-kush-scrog-dwc-picture982342-piss-kush-day-3-10.jpg
and here is them about 48 days of 12/12 later
http://www.invalid.com/members/integra21-157637-albums-5th-grow-dual-6oow-s-water-cooled-co2-piss-blue-kush-scrog-dwc-picture1065848-piss-kush-day-52-38.jpg
I think it has a lot to do with strain for you and possibly veg time. The longest my clones have ever veged for was 5 weeks, and that wasnt actual veg of 5 weeks, thats 5 weeks from the day they were cut to 12/12. But the time on the small clones like the kush is 3 weeks, 1.5 to root and 1.5 to veg, with about 4-8 nodes per plant. I hope this helps get a little more info in your arsenal for the srog veg potentials. I always experiment around a little with every batch. So I'll try to share my observatoins when I think its relevant.

thanks again bro makes sense. i just am doin the same; experimenting and seeing diff results. are u bending them over since theyre 18"? how much space between the medium/plant base and the scrog netting? im only workin with like 6" of space. which means i throw a plant under the screen to flip 12/12 and its already 6" taller then the screen and i try to weave/tuck under.
 
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Integra21

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thanks again bro makes sense. i just am doin the same; experimenting and seeing diff results. are u bending them over since theyre 18"? how much space between the medium/plant base and the scrog netting? im only workin with like 6" of space. which means i throw a plant under the screen to flip 12/12 and its already 6" taller then the screen and i try to weave/tuck under.

My screen is 7" above my tub/stem base. The taller ones get layed down a little when they go in and the little guys the top of the plant doesnt usually touch. But I dont actually do any weaving through the actual screen. I just put the tips through and when they grow about 4" above the screen, I pull the branch back under the screen from the hole it was in and simply move it over the the next slot farthest abay from the plant. I repeat this with all of the branches. You can kinda see it in this pic
http://www.invalid.com/members/integra21-157637-albums-4th-grow-blue-kush-scrog-dual-600w-s-dwc-water-cooled-co2-picture876835-blue-kush-day-36-3.jpg
 
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Boomer242

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very fukn dense undercanopy u got there. looks nuthin like mine. lol. lots of topping/supercropping?

thing might be the issue that i have the tomato style trellis netting that is like 7" square holes and not 2-3" squares like urs? it takes a lot more growth to weave/bend over a top and actually make it to the other string to tuck it and have enough to stretch to make it bak up to the light...
 
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theloadeddragon

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thought I already posted the SCROG method thing up for you.... 1-2" is where its at ;) if you want more info, I will copy and paste it for you....
 
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Boomer242

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thought I already posted the SCROG method thing up for you.... 1-2" is where its at ;) if you want more info, I will copy and paste it for you....

u prob already did go thru it with me but ive already set it up with the 7" netting. plz do post the link to share with all and i will read thru it extensively this time and maybe make the switch if i feel the rooms will b up long enough to make it worth the results
 
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theloadeddragon

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The Scrog Method

So, you want to tackle a scrog do ya? Excellent choice! Scrog or SCREEN OF GREEN is one of the most productive and easiest ways to grow indoors. Now lets not get this confused with the Sea of green method. SOG involves no training nor does it have one item a scrog always has. A screen. Scrog has been around for many years. Before HID's were introduces many used floro's with this method with good success.
Now lets talk about the scrog for a little bit here. What is a scrog? What is screen of green? Well, it is just that. A screen is the main character of scrog. It is usually made of wire or something sturdy enough to hold back the growing canopy. This wire should have some holes in it about 2x2inches in size so that the plant mater can easily grow up through the wire and be supported by it. The wire is secured between the grow medium and the lamp at a distance determined by the size of your lamp. We will get into that later. The plants grow through the screen about 3-4 inches and then are pulled back under and spread out where YOU want them to grow. Its as easy as that folks. Its a great way to grow. Let me put it this way. I have tried untrained methods like SOG and have never come close to the yeild I get with a scrog. Okay, sounds easy right? So, what are you waiting for?

Getting Started
This is the hard part. Getting started. Damned if it ain't for me man. I spend hours thinkin of shit before I do it. lol Anyway, this isnt rocket science. If you've already got an area where you established plants growing you are halfway there.

The SCREEN
Remember at least 2x2inch squares. You can use chicken wire as well or even some tightly strug rope but I would suggest wire. You need something strong to support the buds and hold back the canopy growth. The screen needs to be cut to size. The size of the screen is determined by the size of your lamp. Remember that to get the good bud formation you want from 50 watts per square foot so your screen size should not exceed that. Check the examples below.

150hps screen size 1.75ft x 1.75ft

250hps screen size 2.25ft x 2.25ft

400hps screen size 2.91ft x 2.75ft

600hps screen size 3.45ft x 3.45ft

1000hps screen size 4.4ft x 4.5ft

If your screen exceeds the 50wpsf thing alittle. Thats perfectly okay. Just dont overdoit. lol Now once you've determined the size of your screen and cut it to size. Situate it over your grow area and secure it into place. Just a few screws will hold it in place. Your mounting a screen. Not a twenty pound wall painting. lol.....Wait just a minute! You need to figure out where to set the screen. First, a few questions to ask. Is your lamp air cooled and what size is your lamp? These two questions determine how close you can get to your canopy. This is very important stuff. The closer you get the better off you are. If you do not have air cooled lamps then a simple fan blowing between the canopy and the the lamp should do the trick. Okay, now lets set that screen. Here's some examples of screen settings for hps's. These are not exact settings. They are just a baseline idea. If you can get your lamp closer. Good for you. If you can't. Thats okay too. Dont worry. If you've got the right watts per footage they will produce.

150hps 10-12 inches
250hps 12-15 inches
400hps 16-20 inches
600hps 20+
1000hps 24+

Your Plants
How Many Will I Need Under The Screen? Usually the rule is one plant per square foot of screen. I go with as few plants as I can whenever possible. One side of my flower chamber is almost 3x3ft. Thats almost 9 sqft. I only have 6 plants under there and the screens are pretty full. So, the rule does not always need to be followed. Having less plants can be a good thing if they happen to discover your illegal activity..lol.....Remember with fewer plants you will have to veg a bit longer but be patient and hang in there. Its well worth the wait.

Spacing Lets talk about the spacing between the plant medium and the screen. This space will need to be large enough to allow you room to manipulate your plants during the training phase. I usually use around 8 inches. Some people use more/less. Eight seems to be just enough for me but when working in a 3x3ft space it is still a tight space for a big guy. lol.....

What Is The Best Strain To Grow In A Scrog? Now lets talk about your plants alittle bit. What kind should you be growing in a scrog you ask? Hmmmmm. Well, any kind your heart desires my friend. That's right. Most any plant strain can be grown without much difficulty using a scrog. The secret is in the screen. Some strains require more training than others but that is the only difference. Heavy yeild indica's are excellent scrog candidates but the unruley sativa can really shine with proper training and timing.

Hydro or Soil?

So, how are you going to do this scrog? Is it going to bubble, flow or just sit there? Here's some things you may consider before your plants get tangled up in the screen.

Hydro: No real problem here. I prefer to scrog with a bubbler system over soil anyday. The problem lies in the flush. I explain below.

Soil: Soil grows and scrogs are a wonderful thing. Orgainc buds rule. One problem I ran into when scroging with soil was the flushing of the medium at the end of the grow. Well, with the plants tangled in the screen. One can not just transport to the sink and flush. My soil buckets drain into catch pans. Then I have to drain the catch pans. Takes a while but it works. Hydro is much easier though.

Okay man, you just did something that will almost double your yeild in the next sixty days. So, how do you feel about that? The screen is set. Now its time to move on to other things. Lets take a look at whats going to happen when these babies start to grow through the screen.

Managing the Scrog Grow
You have done some things that are a little out of the ordinary from your usual grow regiem. Things look a little different. A wire screen has invaded your grow space and it looks weird in there. Maybe you even have a few inches growth through the screen. What in the fuck am I gonna do now? lol.......Be cool man. Here's where the real fun begins and were the beauty of scrog growing starts.

Vegging: Here is where alot of people make mistakes. They get in a fired up hurry and get confused somehow. Flip their shit over to 12/12 way to soon and wonder why their screen never filled up. At that point the screen is nothing more than a support system for the plant. Normally one would veg a plant till the screen is 70-80 percent full before switching over to the flowering cycle. Having knowlege of how much your strain stretches is helpful when determining when to switch to flowering. For example: If one had a very stretchy sativa. You would want to start flowering her with much less of the screen filled. Just the opposite for a nice stunted indica. Timing has alot to do with scrog. We go over that soon.

Pulling It Back Through: Okay, so you've got some growth through the screen. Should have about 3-4 inches aye? Don't be a pussy here. lol....... If it breaks. I'll explain what to do later. Reach under the screen and pull that branch back under the screen and place it where you want it to be. Even if it takes tying it in place with the plastic twisty ties. Now I could really get technical and shit and start with the be sure there is an internode in each hole of the screen but it really doesnt matter man. Just get the growth under the screen first. In the next few weeks. You will see were to guide the new growth to best suit your needs.

more to come.......

posted by Newf ( bcbd)
 
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theloadeddragon

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Cut & Paste is just easier, I will leave my own comments for later

Training: This can seem brutal to some. lol........ Scrog is not natural growth for the cannabis plant. I am sure of that. It must stress the shit out of them the whole cycle of life. Imagine taking a plant that usually grows anywhere from 3-12 feet and making it grow in a space no larger than 2 foot. Training begings in the pulling it back through section. Try to situate your main branches towards the barest parts of your screen. They will branch out the most and usually be the largest bud in the bunch. Use some kind of uniformity to your laying out of the branches. Crisscross/ zigzag whatever you use. Remember theres are going to be alot more branching when flowering kicks in high gear. So allow some room for that as well. Lesser buds that are now exposed to more light are then encouraged to grow upwards toward the screen through some leaf triming. An often debated subject but one I feel that is usefull in the scrog method.

Leaf Trimming: Now we need to chat about a touchy subject. Leaf triming. Like I said above. Scrog aint natural for cannabis. At least I dont think it is. Crammed in such a small area with all those leaves. Well, somethings gotta give and its not going to be bud. lol......Here's my rule on trimming. If the leaf is in the way of light for a bud site. Then it needs to be removed. Sometimes I tuck the leaf instead of removing it but most of the time I remove it. Now, when do I do this? Usually when I do a training session. Right afterwards. This trims away leaves and allows the new sites to get light. You will be surprised at how fast they will respond. Use good judgement when trimming. To much is not a good thing here.
Trimming continues into flowering ending during the later stages of flowering. I have found it not to be harmful at all to remove large fan leaves from buds during flowering. If they are blocking light to other bud sites near by. Its all about light penetration and bud sites in a scrog.

Timing: Timing is critical when it comes to a scrog grow. You must be paying attention to the progress of your grow in order to know when to induce flowering. Knowing what strain you are dealing with and what the growing characteristices of the plant are is very helpful when it comes to timing. I cant express the importance of having a good clone base for this purpose. As mentioned above if you induce flowering to early. You will have alot less of a yield. However, if one was to wait to long. The same can happen as well. An overcrowed canopy is just as much a mess. An out of control scrog is just that. A mess. Not something you want to deal with. Remember, the plants you start to flower are probably going to double in size. Stand back and get a visual picture of that in your head. Ask yourself some questions. If I start flowering now. Can I visualize how big they will get? Do I have enough veggative growth to start flowering? Do I have to much? Is it time? Time to start flowering?
Okay, so you've decided to start. Bravo! You are going to be amazed at the buds that come out of this grow. lol....... So, you have turned back the timer to 12/12 and it has been 4 days now. The growth from the stretch is starting to show. You get in there and pull all those new shoots back under your screen and put them where you want them to be. A few more days pass. More growth. Now the decision part comes into play. Just how far over the screen do you want your buds to be? If you stop training them early in the stretch. They will grow alittle above the screen (maybe 3-6inches depending on the strian). If you continue trianing them until they start to top out. They will grow only alittle more and most of the bud will form right in the screen. This technique is great for those stetchy sativa's. However when doing this method keep an eye out for mold and try to have as much air flow between the buds as possible. I have done it both ways and they are both awsome. It may take you a grow or two to get the timing down to where you want it but once you do. I am sure you will be pleased with the results.

Clones/Seed Grows: Here's an interesting topic that is sure to generate a few questions. I suggest clones for scrog growing over seed anyday of the year. Why? With clones you usually already know the characteristics of the plant and how it will perform. With seed its usually a guessing game as to which pheno your going to get unless they are true F1 seed. Plus with seed you dont know the sex yet. Ever tried untangling a male from a screen? Not something I would suggest doing. lol......Anyways, if you grow from seed. Be sure you have cloned the lot and know who your girls are first before going under the screen. This will save you alot of hassle later on.

Damage Control: If you move branches around and bend'em. Eventually somethings gonna give. Dont freakout. Its not the end of the world man.....lol... Cannabis is an amazing plant that can recover from alot of damage naturally without help from humans but in this case ya want to help if ya can. First aid for the injured cannabis plant is simple as pie man. Just support her wound and leave her alone. She will take care of it on her own. Unless you break her completely in half she can be saved usually. You can splint the wound or support it with some heavy gauge wire around the stem. If the break is not that bad and the branch can somewhat support itself. Leave it alone. In all cases. A knot will form at the break and most times an explosion of growth will happen above the damaged area. At times even new growth sometimes sprouts from the knuckle formed.

Flowering Cycle: Once a few trimmings are done and all is set in place flowering in a scrog is pretty uneventful. lol......Good time to start thinning out your undergrowth. I take clones around 20 days 12/12. If all that I need root. I clean out the undergrowth around day 35 12/12. Now if I need anymore clones. I can tak'em at this time. All the rest. Its butter makin time........Oh yeah.......churn dat budda........talk about a bonus for all your hard work.

Undergrowth: I mentioned it above but thought I should mention it again. The undergrowth is not that big of an issue here. Its an area that should be kept clear of dead leaves and you should also ensure that proper ventilation can get through the canopy via the undergrowth. If it cant. Then thin out some growth. This is an area that is dim and often humid. An open invitation for not so good things to come visiting aye? Some people have mentioned putting a light down there. Why? There's no need for a light down there. There are no buds to be harvested there. Just stems that support the canopy. If one were to put a light there they would just be adding to the congestion of leaves already growing. Not good. It is a good idea to clear out your undergrowth as your scrog takes shape and you have taken the clones that you need for the next grow. Trim all remaining sprouts left on the stems and any other undergrowth. Now lets not get to crazy here. Leave a little growth. Use some common sense here. Take out the sites you know are not going to make it to maturity. This will help the plant direct more energy towards the larger buds instead of wasting energy on the smaller ones.

Ventilation: Here's an issue that can not be overlooked. Once a scrog has been established it is a leafy sight to behold. Air circulation becomes critical as the buds begin to form and things start to get packed in the box. 24hr air movement is suggested 7 days a week. Better safe than sorry. Mold sucks.

Even Canopy: Maybe I should not put it in those words. Your canopy does not have to be perfectly even. Just close. The idea behind this is even light distribution. We are looking for a field of buds here not a forest like in SOG. If a dominate bud is allowed to overtake the canopy. It is defeating the purpose of the scrog. Tame that bitch. Bring her down to size with the rest. You want a somewhat even field of buds to deal with. Not a forest of untamed trees. The even canopy is easy to accomplish if you have been following the steps outlined above.

TrickyTip: Occasionally you will have a stretcher that decides that she wants more light than the rest of her friends. This often happens when the branches are competing for light. If one gets out of hand there is a simple solution to taming her back into the fold of the others and possibly giving her a burst of growth. Reach under the screen and find her stem. Half way up her stem start to pull her back through the canopy till she is even with the rest. Now where she is bent. Crush her at the bend with your fingers. Dont smash it in half. Just crush the stem so as it would not be able to support itself if it were to stand alone. As mentioned above. It will heal with vigor and you have solved your canopy problem.

posted by Newf ( bcbd)
 
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Integra21

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very fukn dense undercanopy u got there. looks nuthin like mine. lol. lots of topping/supercropping?

thing might be the issue that i have the tomato style trellis netting that is like 7" square holes and not 2-3" squares like urs? it takes a lot more growth to weave/bend over a top and actually make it to the other string to tuck it and have enough to stretch to make it bak up to the light...

No topping or super cropping here. ijust get the top bent over so side growth takes off and the plants do the rest on their own. ireally think you need a screen with smaller holes. It really makes a difference on how dense you can make your canopy. my screen holes are 2"x3".
 
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A6 Grower

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i had a screen with 1" squares but that was only one plant lol, but i do agree with integra. it would be more work but youd get alot more per plant if each one was spread open more like this.

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ya ya i know CFLS i know they suck!!!! it was a closet thing lol but i got 3 ounces off 1 plant under 457w(actual) of CFL's in a 1.5 gallon container. I'd say i got the most i could possibly get off one plant that size lol. My next closet project which just started btw, is 3 plants in 18 gallon rubbermaid tubs with a 2'x3' screen above each one, same 1" screen. I have alot of free time so i can tuck and weave ever day, but im hoping to pull 1 pound each, veg for 4-6 weeks and under 2 400w mh and the flower for 8-10 weeks under the same 2 400's just HPS. Im still tryin things out so the long grow doesn't bother me. Sorry to kinda ramble on in your thread, one of these days ill stop being lazy and make my own lol. Cant wait to see what you get this round boomer! the last round was very nice. Did you do another outdoor crop this year?? That was my favorite urban grow ever! it also could have been the FINNNNEEE helper you had cuttin and choppin that made it my fav lol.
 
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Boomer242

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thanks for all the info and advice guys. TLD is a def a wealth of knowledge. appreciate it brotha.

i remember reading most of that post but not all of it. maybe i was faded or didnt catch the second part of it before but im thinkin of swappin the netting out for sum other style wire screen i was eyeing before. itll be interesting to run it now and compare diff. as mentioned before its a learning curve and only in my actual second grow ever indoors so its good i review all my notes and options and mod it the way it needs to be to be most productive. the tighter screen does make way more sense now that ive seen scrogging first hand and how the strains vary in internode spacing and growth period. the new vegged cuttings i just put into flower will be grown out normal and use the netting for support. next rounds i will try and swap the screens if i have the time and weave it better for a true even canopy and spread/open shit out for more lumens to all buds evenly. i have buds in table 1 that are almost 12" lower then the top colas! lame. lol oh well live and learn.

i want to retract my previous statement that kushes dont scrog well. i just did it flat out wrong haha. well maybe not all that wrong but not able to weave due to 7" netting holes. thanks again guys.
 
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AbusiveOGK

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Nice setup Boomer, nice and clean. Can't wait to see what you end up with. Good luck bro.
 
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Boomer242

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Flower Update; Starting Week 4 & Week 1

Table 1;

18x OG x BUBBA kush
PH @ 5.7
PPM @ 1100
Rez temp @ 78
-aroma and frost began mid week 3
-minimum stretching


Table 2;

Freshly transplanted from veg room;
18x OG x BUBBA kush
PH @ 6.0
PPM @ 850
Rez temp @ 78
-to reduce lumen shock; raised all lights 24" above canopy, only fired on 2 of 3 600ws for first week.



Room temp @ 82* 63% RH



table 1


http://img.invalid.com/albums/v689/boomer1605/IMG_0628.jpg


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Table 2; fresh transplantted OGBK


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Ive always been about preventative measures to avoid, pests, fungus, molds, etc.

I found the Lady Bugs didnt work as well since they suicide dive bomb the HIDs and die within 3 days if that.

So i did sum reasearch and found that Predator mites are a better organic solution to prevent and handle pests; mainly spidermites which run rampant in so cal. There were a couple diff breeds out there and i chose the best predator mites for my room.

I chose the one that best fits my growroom enviorment.


copy/pasted from site;

"Preferred food: Two-spotted spider mites and many others. Predators will consume egg, nymph and adult stages of pest mites.

Neoseiulus californicus is an oblong, tiny predatory mite that feeds on a variety of prey. Use on crops including: cucumbers, tomatoes, strawberries, tropical foliage plants, and greenhouse roses. Use in gardens, fields, orchards and greenhouses.



Shipment, biology and release: Use these beneficial mites when temperatures are between 60-80 degrees F. and there is a minimum of 60% humidity. These predatory mites consume their prey at a more leisurely pace (one adult or a few eggs per day), and can survive longer under starvation conditions.

Release rates: 4 mites/sq. ft, bi-weekly, 2-3 times; 5,000-20,000/acre, bi-weekly, 2-3 times."

heres the package it came in; apparently u cant ship Penguins in this package. :character0050:

http://img.invalid.com/albums/v689/boomer1605/IMG_0641.jpg
 
B

Bobby Smith

1,378
0
Hey Boom, looking good - I think you're gonna be very pleased at the "lessened" light shock from raising your plants up, but let us all know how that works out.

Just curious, why did you feel the need to get those predator mites? Forgive me for not looking back, but have you been battling them? If you have been, did you ever try cranking up the CO2 and just suffocating them for an hour?

Also, and again forgive me for not double-checking, but I remember you started off running drain to waste - seems like you're recirculating now, any specific reason for the change?

Everything I've read about drain to waste sounds like it's perfect for a lazy moron like me, so if you had an issue with it (besides wasting nutes/water, which I can live with), I'm all ears.

Thanks man.
 
B

Boomer242

410
16
Hey Boom, looking good - I think you're gonna be very pleased at the "lessened" light shock from raising your plants up, but let us all know how that works out.

Just curious, why did you feel the need to get those predator mites? Forgive me for not looking back, but have you been battling them? If you have been, did you ever try cranking up the CO2 and just suffocating them for an hour?

Also, and again forgive me for not double-checking, but I remember you started off running drain to waste - seems like you're recirculating now, any specific reason for the change?

Everything I've read about drain to waste sounds like it's perfect for a lazy moron like me, so if you had an issue with it (besides wasting nutes/water, which I can live with), I'm all ears.

Thanks man.



i prob shouldve clarified; im all about preventative measures and spending a dime to keep things smooth. i dont have mites or any issues and havent YET. i know about crankin the c02 to 20,000ppm and lowering room temps with my 2ton. but in my veg room thats a diff story... no c02 and the AC cant pull below 71*

i just want to have the predator mites on deck anytime. was like $53 w/ shipping and they breed themselves and stick around til i need them. ill throw sum in just to make sure theres nuthin startin that im not seeing.

the veg room 4x4 has been converted to ebb n flow recirc. this allows me to put in anything and flood feed it. and not restrictions on numbers.

the flower room is still top feed drip to waste runoff. i dont like to recirc but in veg im not really worried, veg is easy for me. flower; not so much. haha
 
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