Sativied
Ruler of the Whorled
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In one word: divergence. Basically anything that deviates from the regulars. I'm pretty sure there IS a difference, but not so sure it's obviously enough to notice in an earlier stage than the WP top side. The same difference may be caused for other reasons (nutrient regime for example) as well.What would you be looking for in the roots?
Having a double taproot seems way more rare than WP but yeah that would be one to grow out for me. Are you sure it's an additional tap root? If you sort of top or bend the roots (I.e. if the tap grew sideways, or broke off very early) you can get two or more main roots as well.Remember when I mentioned my big whorled throws 2 main tap roots- could this be a marker?
Yes that is very possible. It may be the result of multiple heterozygous gene combinations, which technically makes it impossible to breed true. Similar with certain taste/smell combinations and true F1 hybrids, I may at some point have to keep THE two parent plants to result in triwhorled consistently. I hope that's not the case but cannot exclude the possibility for a long time. Being that they vary in when they start whorling and how much, it's also possible there are whorlers by genotype that simply don't express the wp phenotype.Could just be the exact combo of the 2 strains..
Thanks man, she's still my favorite.That Swan is something else, beautiful plant!
Smile...One thing I'm really happy with is that I ended up with the desired bud structure on most plants.
AAAAA+ MEDs right there. Very impressive. Thanks for sharingThanks man, she's still my favorite.
I will likely grow out F3 from multiple females. Zero from the AAO (smells too dark, not fruity pine, too sensitive for nutrients). Zero from nr 23 (tallest stems, smallest buds). Most from the swan.
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P6-19-F2. She's the most frosty and one of the fastest flowering. Not the biggest yielder, but was replacement of a male in the tubes so had less veg time. Almost done. Little over 8 weeks 12/12.
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Nr x, lost label and not numbered because I excluded it from the selection early. It's stretched too much. But... she's also nearly ready.
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^^Main bud site, will take a pic of the stem after harvest, it stretched to close to the HPS bulb hence the heat stress. Hasn't really bothered it though.
Another bud, same plant. Could have had way more nutes, N+Ca in particular, but not without darkening the AAO and swan too much so this one got the short straw.
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One thing I'm really happy with is that I ended up with the desired bud structure on most plants. Not golf balls (like the AAO), not complete hazy foxtail buds, but a mix.
Thanks for the compliment man.AAAAA+ MEDs right there. Very impressive. Thanks for sharing
Good question and I'd be happy to share my thoughts on that extensively... I just got back from Amsterdam and high as a kite on lemon haze+temple balls+white russian+NL#5/Haze so will do that tomorrow :)I got a breeders question for you guys. When I read about inbreeding backcrossing or pure breeding, writer implies that you lose potency and vigor. My question is will I lose potency or vigor if I back cross so many times or inbreeding to tight? Keep in mInd I select for vigor and potency also but will my pool get smaller?
Writer is by itself, generally speaking, correct. With back crossing one can cross multiple plants back to the recurrent parent, basically select the best (potency and vigor) AND most suitable (genes/genotypes) every round, so that's a bit of a special case, but when it comes to pure line breeding in general, i.e. creating a true bred IBL, breeding true aka locking traits in, that is is essentially done by breeding other genes out.I got a breeders question for you guys. When I read about inbreeding backcrossing or pure breeding, writer implies that you lose potency and vigor.
In practice, that depends on several factors. How many plants you select from, how many plants you pollinate with each other, and above all which plants. Inbreeding to a next generation by itself has as few benefits as it has downsides. It's the genetics make up of the parents that matters (unless you keep breeding in for mutations or recombination). An F6 is not necessarily more stable/homozygous than F3 (think auto flowering genes..., or better photo flowering genes in a cross with auto genes in it), and an F20 doesn't have to suffer from inbreeding depression (which is the result of breeding out genes) by default.My question is will I lose potency or vigor if I back cross so many times or inbreeding to tight? Keep in mInd I select for vigor and potency also but will my pool get smaller?
A Cannabis TriCot looks almost exactly like little Trifolium clover leaf--Found a three leaved seedling in one of my first runs. Noticed it because it was different and was the pot equivalent of a four leaf clover.
Yes, and yes. I didn't plan on going for whorled phyllotaxy, it's actually the increase in ratio, the confirmation that it inherited, that motivated me to do so. I remember joking about it with someone after I used the pollen of that quad male, saying it would be one-in-a-million chance I'd get any female with tri-whorled.Surely you are doing whorled on whorled matings. [...] Have you found an increase in whorled progeny from this whorled on whorled action?
I have a lot of theories but still in the process of finding out whether they hold true. At this point nothing new than the many I posted in this thread. I know it's long, but so would me be repeating that :) After creating the F1 of those 4 crosses I first did a run to see which of the 3 outcrosses I wanted to work on. I had some major light leaks, RH around 60-70, so had some nanners and bud rot. One, P6, was too good to not go ahead and create and F2 from. That cross, which I still call P, I'm starting to harvest the F2 plants and F3 seeds from, is basically a non-whorling line (although not completely bred out yet). I'm starting a new round of CH(reg)xCH(quad) to focus on the wp project again.what are your theories
Hehe no, nothing like that. Almost all traits/feature/function of EVERY living organism on the planet has started out as a mutation (watch the new Cosmos if that sounds controversial, it's what evolution is about, which is no theory, but fact as Neil Degrasse explains so nicely.)A mutation in the DNA is typically inheritable because it's the DNA that is inherited. In evolution the traits that prove to be useful for survival are passed on (those who don't have the trait die or don't get to mate or produce less seeds). For example, cannabis creates trichomes because one of its ancestors mutated in doing so. That proved to be useful for its survival, those without the mutation got eaten by bugs and animals. That's obviously a simplified example take, but is what it comes down to. For another example, look up why polar bears are white.this some kind of gene malfunction rather than an inherited trait? Down syndrome for plants type of stuff perhaps?
Increased yield per plant is not part of my motivation. Yield is (for me thanks to canopy control) primarily limited by space and light and time. It's the latter where I see the benefit. Not during flowering, cause reducing the flower time further (than the 8-9 weeks) seems to come at a too high cost when it comes to yield, but during veg. They produce more branches and more leaves and since plants grow at an exponential rate that shave a few days of my veg time (days not weeks, but I only veg for a few weeks so...).I've always been attracted to the idea of increased yields through extra nodes
@Sativied Happi-Holi-Daze BroView attachment 467373
My P6-F2
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