Milson said:

I am REALLY looking forward to testing these haze girls....fussy haze in particular is i think going to be the mom i try breeding because holy shit this buzz.....hardcore headband squeezing kind of tingly high.....like the attention is so focused in the eyes that "why is my mouth all the way down there???" Kind of thing idk....Gonna be great once dried properly. Definite spicy myrcene nose....And i have seeds from her with two potential haze dads and a widow dad!

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Moe.Red said:

I love your description. Can't wait to see the test! Wanna guess what it's made of first?

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Milson said:

Fussy haze on the left. Hungry haze on the right.

Bit frustrated with myself re quality of test. Results have interest though.

Kind of confused by how much cbc I see.

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Moe.Red said:

I'm not sure what you are seeing that is frustrating. Looks like a solid test to me.

If you are talking about the splotchiness, that is in the dye application. Here is my advice on that.

#1 - mix the dye well in advance. Like at the start of the test. Use warm tap water (not hot) and shake it up really good
#2 - make sure the plate is mostly vertical when you spray. You do not want it pooling up on top of a horizontal plate.
#3 - make sure you have the bottle spraying really well and even before you spray the plate. A few strong squirts into a paper towel to get things flowing well before you douse the plate. you can see the big drops on the cardboard that if they landed on the plate would cause these artifacts.
#4 - use a new spray bottle each time. With my kit, they only sent 1 and the nozzle clogged up early on and without a nice even spray you get the granulated dot look. Don't dench the plate, just make sure a fine mist hits the whole thing. 100% coverage without drips is the goal.
#5 - make sure the plate is totally dry from the eluent before spraying.
#6 - it looks like there is plant material at the application dot point, the dark brown stuff. Make sure you put cotton in the top of the sample to use as a filter to only get the eluent and dissolved molecules into the pipette, no crunchies.

And as I have mentioned, there is a better dye. When I get you the THC Vic clones, I'll get you some of the good stuff to try.

Fast Blue BB Salt hemi(zinc chloride) salt F3378

Fast Blue BB Salt Dye content >= 80 %

www.sigmaaldrich.com

With these bottles, try them out with straight water first and make sure they are giving a good mist and no big drops, then add the dye.

Now, for the good

This is a solid result, even if it is not as photogenic as you would like. You have some really nice genetics there. This stuff is far more balanced than you typically get from commercial seeds. Still a big THC blip, but you also have several minors in good qty. Also, the decarb looks perfect. I'm gonna guess this is an incredibly dense non-boring high. With this result, you can see why, and try to tweak it for your personal taste.

I'm a fan.

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Moe.Red said:

That fussy haze is a full figured gal, huh?

I've never seen that "cryptic" section before. I'm gonna dive into understanding that a bit more.

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Milson said:

The level of cbc being basically equal with cbg surprises me a lot. As does seeing a bit of thcv on fussy haze.

The tlc sure makes haze plus widow look like a party.

If i want to buy more plates, what do you recommend?

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Moe.Red said:

I know I'm a weirdo, but I'd put some of both in the bowl and smoke it up. That would be some serious entourage. I'm finding that THCV and CBC are interesting bedfellows.

On the plates, you have really 2 options. First is the glass with Silica Gel 60. These are more expensive, but great results. Necessary if you are decarbing directly on the plate with the lighter (hot test in your instructions).



The second is an aluminum plate that you can cut with normal scissors.



These are cheap and effective, but you need to be a little careful about bending them or the silica will crack or break off. But being able to cut the plate to any dimension you want is really nice. If you want super separation, you can even cut them the long way and get double the room for the eluent to travel making dot detection a snap.

On both of these, you want the bud as dry as possible for best results.

I just had a really nice farmer buddy send me a bunch of glass (thank you thank you), so that's what I'm going to use for a while, but if I'm buying, I go aluminum. That box of 20 from Amazon is damn near a lifetime supply at the rates we test.

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Milson said:

That looks like an order for those acids to develop?

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Moe.Red said:

I'm worried I am going too deep here and you already know this, but I'll explain a bit further.

The Silica sprayed on the plate is a well defined lattice of molecules that are tightly linked together.

View attachment 1108613

The eluent (one of 3 chemicals for cannabis, normally Chloroform) runs right up this stuff quickly with a wicking action.

In the eluent is your cannabinoids. These molecules move up the lattice with the eluent at a fixed, differing speed based on the cannabinoid, making use of different polarity of the molecules. Think of it this way, THC is skinny like Milson and can climb the ladder fast. THCA is a porker like yours truly and just can't get it's fat azz up the ladder. So when you see a long solid line at the bottom leading up from the sample dot - what you are seeing is the undecarbed fatso cannabinoids in the mix. This is not very telling, because all the acids from the entire bud show up as one dot. You can't see THCA, CBDA, etc, just one big blob. So we decarb first or you lose data.

In the pic you posted, you see a cold test and a hot test with different amounts of sample required. The cold test is going to show you a big slug of acids. The hot test is where you put a flame under the glass to decarb prior to developing. You use more sample size because this is not accurate and results in burning off some of the sample and eluent.

What I think works the best is to properly decarb the bud prior to coming over to the TLC test setup, and use the sample size of the cold test. This is by far the most accurate and repeatable method for this process.

Also, if you look at some of my tests, you will see little bands of color down near the sample dot where the acids would be. I know those are clearly something, but I am not sure what. My guess is terpenoids. You will only see them when using Fast Blue BB from my experience. So from that perspective, yes they are cryptic because I have only guesses as to what they are.

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