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cch2o UC-RDWC: 20x1000w

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cch2o UC-RDWC: 20x1000w

BCboys 255 Replies 46,918 Views
Page 10 of 13 · Replies 181–200 of 256
#181
Thanks for the reply bro. Working on a friends room right now thats 30' x 20' and she has a 72 mature plant limit and i'm debating on squeezing 2 of the UCDB32XL systems for a total of only 64 plants cause she likes to be under her plant count at all times. On another note that wouldnt leave much room to walk by on the 20' length cause they would be about 18' long total even if i run both the systems the long way through the room it would still be the same issue for the 20' length. Also she would have to purchase more 6oow ballasts cause as of right now she only has the equipment for16 x 600w and i dont think that would quite cover the foot print for two of the UCDB32XL systems would it?
I see your running 20 X 1000w's. My plan was to possibly run 2 of the UCDB32 systems instead of the UCDB32XL's to keep the plant count up and give us the extra walk around space (which we all know is essential) however it would probably make those plants more crowded.

When you have a minute if you dont mind i would like to hear your take on my situation and possibly what u think about the two systems? Like if one may work better than the other or vise versa.

Sorry for the rant but this would be my first run with the UC system and the first of this size room for me so just want to do as much homework as possible.

Thanks
 
#182
No prob. Current Culture actually recommends 1 light for every four plants as optimal. This is what I have in the room as well. There are 16 lights over the the two 32XL's and 4 more over the 16XL. However, if I were to do it again I would choose hoods/reflectors that cover more sq.ft because as it stands with the ones im using, the footprint from the 8 lights does not adequately cover the canopy at optimal height. In order to cover the whole canopy, I have to raise the lights a bit, decreasing lumens. I would go with adjust-a-wing's were I to do it again..and do away with ducting altogether. Ducting is a fucking mess and a huge pain in my ass.
 
#183
You say they recomend 1 light per four plants but wouldnt that vary from 1000w to 600w lights?

lol... i agree about the pain in the ass ducting and if you have enough ac btu's to cover the heat then why the hell not right? Gona use the cool system hoods again without the glass i just took the glass right off mine.
Ever since i removed my glass and upgraded my ac units i increased my yields by at east 15% to 20% for two runs in a row. Dont think it would help to make a bigger foot print for you but since you lose some intensity by raising them higher than you would like, it would increase those lumens a bit with the glass off. take my word for it and give it a shot for a run before you just toss them out and buy the adjust-a-wings
 
#184
Go 001


Go 002


Go 003


Go 011


Go 013
 
#186
BCboys said:
I should note that if you have resistats that work properly, then this isnt even an issue. Mine worked when I was vegging the moms, but none are working anymore so I removed them. Not sure what the problem was with them. The watergate valves are now open 24/7
Click to expand...

I had an issue with the resistats as well, they would rapidly cycle on/off, turned out to be RF interferance from the digital ballasts, I pulled them and don't use them now.

Also, the inline solenoids are dangerous, they have a 3 wire grounded plug but the ground wire is just cut off inside the housing, not connected to anything. They use really cheap/crappy insulating sleeves over solder connections inside the housing that are too big for the wire size. One little tug on the cord and it will slip out of the strain relief, pull the insulation off of the solder connections and short to the inside of the housing, when you next touch the solenoid, the path to ground and get one hell of a shock.

I have communicated these issues to Hydro Innovations and they don't give a shit, their only comment on it was "we're not taking them back"
 
#187
BudGoggles said:
Very happy plant
Keep it up
Click to expand...

Thanks BG

HighDesertMMJ said:
I had an issue with the resistats as well, they would rapidly cycle on/off, turned out to be RF interferance from the digital ballasts, I pulled them and don't use them now.

Also, the inline solenoids are dangerous, they have a 3 wire grounded plug but the ground wire is just cut off inside the housing, not connected to anything. They use really cheap/crappy insulating sleeves over solder connections inside the housing that are too big for the wire size. One little tug on the cord and it will slip out of the strain relief, pull the insulation off of the solder connections and short to the inside of the housing, when you next touch the solenoid, the path to ground and get one hell of a shock.

I have communicated these issues to Hydro Innovations and they don't give a shit, their only comment on it was "we're not taking them back"
Click to expand...

yeah. that sounds like exactly the same issue I had. I would turn the resistat all the way down, which should have left the valve open indefinitely trying to get it that low, but it would keep clicking open/closed rapidly.

Good to know about the solenoids too..thanks for the heads up. I'll probably just remove them next run since they're serving no purpose and one more possible point of failure for the UnderStressCurrent system.
 
#188
Wow, very excellent thread and information! Nice work as well!

And a special thanks to highdesertMMJ as well for that heads up on the missing ground! Man that is really dangerous! I guess those folks would rather deal with a lawsuit from personal injury and property damage as opposed to dealing with returns.....I do not get that at all.

Without the ground, NONE of your protection devices will function or work AT ALL, as I am sure most of you know those little safety circuits are designed to prevent electrical fires....... It also will not protect surges or worse the "brown outs" that do more damage to electrical devices than a power surge. I thought the folks at Hydro Innovations were on top of things....and produced quality gear.....guess not.

Anyhow I mainly wanted to let you know that if your considering switching to the adjust-a-wings I can second that as a great idea! The Avenger model has one of the best/highest reflection percentage of light and with the unique design you are able to simulate all the seasons indoors...which is VERY cool if you think about it.....and I know of no other reflector kit that can do this..the only design we did not test was the cool tubes....

The light spreader that is optional with the kit also allows you to get the light closer to the plant......which has produced vast improvements on final yield and quality...as some of the resin production for example will depend on light intensity and other factors. For quality you have to provide a environment that will encourage "genetic expression", simply put.

Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing!

Be Well
 
#189
DSCN1313
I sent this pic to Hydro Innovations after I was shocked when I touched the watergate valve, I got no response, the ground wire is cut even with the black insulation, not visable in this shot.
 
#193
Looks great!

How long were these ladies vegged?

Are you still brewing compost tea and adding it to the epicenter? If so, how often? Are you just topping off the ReZ's everytime or do you change out the entire solution?

Thanks
 
#194
turbo14 said:
Looks great!

How long were these ladies vegged?

Are you still brewing compost tea and adding it to the epicenter? If so, how often? Are you just topping off the ReZ's everytime or do you change out the entire solution?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Thanks Turbo.

total veg time was around 4 weeks due to the algae/rot issue. It took a while for some of the littlest ones to get healthy enough roots systems to flip. I also ended up replacing half a dozen or so after about 4 days because some of the transplanted clones were torched from the cloner mishap heh.

Still brewing the tea, yes. Adding it every week to the epicenter. Since the introduction of the tea, I have only fully changed out the water once and that was at flip. Cap's packs are on the way and I will be brewing a new tea with the addition of those. The plan is to do a full water exchange and reinoculate the systems with the new brew and fresh nutes. Probably looking at a new profile of about 4ml/g base and another dose of pk 13/14 which should total right around 400ppm together.
 
#196
^ Day 26 of Flower. Can anyone tell me how the flower development looks in terms of size for this stage of flower? Thanks
 
#197
Personally, I think you are right in the SWEET spot at this point in bloom, the ladies appear to be a nice shade of green, no visible signs of leaf tip burn/overfeeding/the claw. Use this pic update as your benchmark, in 2 weeks they'll look night-n-day different, 4 weeks from now you'll be nearly done, Peace SSP
 
#198
Awesome, thanks for the guidance SSP, and thanks for checking them out. I'm in uncharted territory now so I've been looking through a lot of journals on here trying to see how developed others plants are at this stage. It seems like a lot of it is genetics? If only I knew for sure what mine are.

4th and 5th pics are the "blueberry" strain I was given, also the first two pics at the top of this page are the same strain. The last two pics are supposed to be an Afghani x Sweettooth. Anyone grown these strains before, and do they look anything like these? Most of the pics I can find online are late flower/post crop pics.

One more thing...I'm getting an increasing amount of red fan leaf stems. They're turning red not only on the tops of the stem, but also underneath. Certain strains seem more affected than others. Also, the main vein in the centre of the fan leaves is turning red as well. Some foliage under the canopy is yellowing and dying off. Some of the bigger fan leaves on one of the strains is turning a lighter shade of green, even up near the tops - these leaves are also starting to curl down (not droop). If anyone could help me out and suggest some possibilities I would be grateful.
 
#200
Real nice bro!
Startn to thickn up in there1

Well i'm no UC pro but been in hydro for years now....maybe this could help trouble shoot a little for ya...red/purple stems could be genetics and completely normal...also could be P def. What is your ec and ph doing in the res day by day? Have you been monitoring it? Has your res got too cold?.. sometimes this can cause P or K def. Also some of the really low nitrogen bloom nutes will cause yellowing too soon in flower, some yellowing is good in the last week or so but not this soon. What strength are you feeding? overfeeding could cause lock out as well.

Just a few things to think about but i'm sure one of the UC pros will come to the rescue in no time
 
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