Drooping towards then end of light cycle???????

  • Thread starter kushluvr
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kushluvr

kushluvr

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any bugs?

They shouldnt droop like that. I've had it happen and thought maybe they were just packin it in early every night. Everytime it was a problem that was causing it.
Could be something as simple as transplant shock I suppose. If they don't smarten-up in a couple of days...well..you know.

squeeky clean sir!!! did have an issue a few grows ago, but under control now!
 
J

Jsän

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0
hey bro, i am not a pro by far, but it really does look like overwatering.
Maybe the roots are not established enough for that long underwater.
i would try to shorten your cycles.
say every 4 hours for 5 min. until they bush up a bit?


just my thoughts.
 
kushluvr

kushluvr

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So........I just checked the medium and it was drenched, so I backed off the watering time to 2 minutes. It only takes 3 to fill so Im trying not to get the medium to wet! Lets see what happens!
 
tokinupon1

tokinupon1

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Overwater for sure I'm running a 3x3 with ojd ogchem I flood every 4-5 hrs with just hydrotron as med and am having great success I'm 4 weeks into flower with a jungle on my hands
 
kushluvr

kushluvr

656
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Overwater for sure I'm running a 3x3 with ojd ogchem I flood every 4-5 hrs with just hydrotron as med and am having great success I'm 4 weeks into flower with a jungle on my hands

Okay cool, ill try that next!

kush
 
Venom818

Venom818

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try what the other farmers are suggesting bro but from personal experience i doubt its over watering it happens to me i water with one gallon for 3 gallon coco buckets every 3 days or so i just feed yesterday and there not doing it why would it only happen 2 hours before light s off doesnt make sense to me
 
tokinupon1

tokinupon1

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The Other thing I noticed u said was Ur temp swings are pretty high if ur going from 50 to 85+ by the end of the nite they could just be stressing with that big ol 1000w on em for 16hrs there only little ladies
 
kushluvr

kushluvr

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The Other thing I noticed u said was Ur temp swings are pretty high if ur going from 50 to 85+ by the end of the nite they could just be stressing with that big ol 1000w on em for 16hrs there only little ladies

u think I should cut the hours to 16 from 18, also its only been 84 once or twice, its now no higher than 79 and no lower than 59!
 
kushluvr

kushluvr

656
93
try what the other farmers are suggesting bro but from personal experience i doubt its over watering it happens to me i water with one gallon for 3 gallon coco buckets every 3 days or so i just feed yesterday and there not doing it why would it only happen 2 hours before light s off doesnt make sense to me

doesnt make sense to me either! I know the og pretty well, I just havnt done flood tables in a while or with OG in tables!
 
kushluvr

kushluvr

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How far do my lights need to be when there this small, 1000w and a 600w separate tents! there both at least 3 ft away right now!
 
blazeone44

blazeone44

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i leave my lights about 4 1/2 ft when their that age but i dont use a 1000 watt i turn the ballast to 500 watt
 
kushluvr

kushluvr

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I just raised it as high as i can, Im pretty sure I cant turn the ballast down (not digital)!
 
kushluvr

kushluvr

656
93
Soooo........its still happening, WTF? A friend of mine has the exact same setup, feeding schedule, nutes, light, medium, plant strain (i gave him the seeds), and we talk everyday, just about, and his arent doin this, ever! this is a first for me so its really bothering me!

I tried all schedules, 1,2,3,4,5,6 times a day, from 2-15 minutes, I think I should drop the nutes 50%........WDYT?

I feel as though im runnin out of options.........I kind of feel like throwin them into flower....their growin, but pretty slow!

If you all think its over watering,(me too, a little) then you think I should shut the pump off for a day and see if they perk up at the end. I have this blue mystic in coco and I cloned it and threw it away, it was doin this shit too, I havent watered it in over a week or two and it looks better than it ever has, perky as fuck, Im shocked every time I look at it!

IDK guys????????

anymore suggestions??????

Im open to all of em!!!!

thanks in advance,

KUSH
 
G

Growops

99
8
my plants tend to do this too , i just went down 4 hrs after lights out nd they droppy now when i go down 2 hrs before lights on they look rdy to drink and thrieve . when this first started happening like 2yrs ago when i learnt flood n drain it was creating stress on my brain. thinking im doign something wrong . do u think your plants are failing ? or loook ugly ? i did ! lol i got over it my best hypothosis was the plants sense lights out nd its time fort them to rest ,ive have great harvests each time . its like they know its rest time . if u monitior it like me u might find samething :)
 
PhatNuggz

PhatNuggz

2,121
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Couple things:

1. What type of grow medium did you use to start the seeds (and what size)? Even when I use the small rockwool or S2G cubes I have to cut them in half as they hold too much water for young developing root structures. So you may need to cut back on how high you let the table flood to compensate.

2. Fan- oscillating, I didn't see one. Good to aim it so that the leaves fluff and the radiant heat is moved away. Set it with your light on/off schedule.

3. Make a temporary humidity hood. I use individual clear plastic cups. You make also need to trim the primary leaves (cut in half) to relieve the weight.
hth
 
kushluvr

kushluvr

656
93
WHen the plants sweat, that means to much water.......right?
 
kushluvr

kushluvr

656
93
I found this, I hope this will help, it makes sense!


Evaporation and Leaf Temperature
Climate control is more than lighting, temperatures, watering, ventilation, EC and pH. In fact, humidity is the number one factor in maintaining level temperatures.
With a low humidity, around 40 per cent, your grow room will derive a lot of water from the leaves. Think of this as the cooling process. A lot of water has to be supplied from the roots because, as the water in the leaves runs out and the water supply stops, the leaf stomas, at the tip of the leaves, will start to close. This is considered curling leaves. In the growth phase the leaves usually curl down wherein the bloom phase they will curl up. This curling is not directly related to nutrients, a common misbelief among gardeners. In fact, the leaf just becomes too hot and by curling it is essentially protecting itself against the light and the temperature. Remember, lamps are not only sources of light; they are sources of heat as well and they will create heat in the leaves of your plants. When you don’t take action in this period, the leaves will start to curl on all sides and eventually they will burn.

Water Supply and Humidity
Water supply via the roots and humidity should go hand in hand. When the leaves are no longer cooled, the production of energy stops, and your crops will no longer produce. This process is very similar to human perspiration.
These problems often take place in the few final hours of daily growth and because most growers will be sleeping at that time and not checking their plants, the problem goes unnoticed. The result is that the plant may stop production for as long as three hours, thus reducing the yield.
Example: If the temperature is 86°F and you’re sitting on the beach without any fluids, your skin will start to burn. Your body is no longer being cooled because your water supply has sweated out and no additional fluids are being taken in.
It is best to check on your plants a few hours before the lamps are turned off as checking your plants when the lights are turned on only shows the leaves at their best. As your plants bring up new coolant, or water, in the dark period the leaves curl up so curling will not be visible under the lights. During the night the root will ensure the battery on top is recharged or filled with coolant. The root cannot supply coolant to the leaves when:

Your growth medium has no water
When the substrate is too cold
When there is no oxygen in the growth medium (may be too wet)
When the EC value of the substrate is too high (the root can’t supply water to the leaves, which can also lead to curling leaves.)

It is clear that curling leaves has to do with the cooling process of the leaves. Working with the proper humidity is beneficial and essential for climate control. By keeping the room a little more humid, you demand less from the sweating or evaporation of the plant. Water supply via the root does not have to be as quick. In this way, everything will proceed more gradually meaning that the plant can produce for 12 hours instead of 10.
Everything is a little easier for the plant and a mistake every now and then has fewer consequences because you are not growing near the maximum cooling capacity of the leaves.
To get the right humidity values, you will have to use a humidifier, which is available in all sorts and sizes. In warm periods always use a humidifier that provides a cold mist, even in the summer period the temperature of the grow room can lowered by as much as 41°F.

In winter when the temperatures are low, a warm mist is best. A humidifier is essential for successful yields; even the professional horticulturist invests a lot of money in humidifiers. Growth is more controlled and a higher yield is realized. Once you have climate control perfected, nutrient additives becomes the next important step in your success. In part two of we will talk about methods you can implement to maintain climate control.
 
lazarus718

lazarus718

626
28
You have any recent pics bro? I only have a 400W but I stick my seedlings under it once they sprout roots out of my jiffy tabs ~1 week old. Start the light at 4 ft. then move it down gradually over the course of a week and a half until I get it about 14" from the tops. Haven't had a problem with it yet and am on my fifth different strain with same method.
 

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