I would say your source water is contaminated, once root rot gets in its hard to fix it because it explodes in dwc culture, people try a million things and give up when they had bad water to begin with , for me a complete game changer was prevention by running my source water through a 2 filter UV home sterilizing system before running in my rdwc, the water is great quality and the plants and roots have never looked better, I also run Hydrolsil every 3 days which is peroxide and infused silver ions, I started to get a run of root problems and the UV system changed everything .

https://www.hydrosil.com.au/product/hydrosil-ultra/

TheOhmOne said:

Sweet deal man I appreciate the advice !

I apologize if this has been covered, but what exactly is your take on what happened here and why?

Do you run hydroguard? What nutrients and other supplements do you use ?


Thanx

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I ran hydrogaurd with hygrozyme my last run. I used the megacrop version 1 no longer for sale. Because the low calcium and magnesium i would toss in some call mag at low doses when needed.

It really doesn't matter if you run aterile or live. What matters is you use it accordingly. Although I do prefer a live system that doesn't mean its the only thing that works.

What brand and concentration of h2o2 were you using?

Roadblock said:

I would say your source water is contaminated, once root rot gets in its hard to fix it because it explodes in dwc culture, people try a million things and give up when they had bad water to begin with , for me a complete game changer was prevention by running my source water through a 2 filter UV home sterilizing system before running in my rdwc, the water is great quality and the plants and roots have never looked better, I also run Hydrolsil every 3 days which is peroxide and infused silver ions, I started to get a run of root problems and the UV system changed everything .

https://www.hydrosil.com.au/product/hydrosil-ultra/

Click to expand...

Interesting I will dive into this. Thank you!!
What was your source water before your current system?

how much Hydrosil do you use, and how exactly do you add it when topping off?

thanx again

Aqua Man said:

I ran hydrogaurd with hygrozyme my last run. I used the megacrop version 1 no longer for sale. Because the low calcium and magnesium i would toss in some call mag at low doses when needed.

It really doesn't matter if you run aterile or live. What matters is you use it accordingly. Although I do prefer a live system that doesn't mean its the only thing that works.

What brand and concentration of h2o2 were you using?

Click to expand...

Let me get back to you on brand shortly, but it is 35% and I used .5ml per gallon at the start each time I added water.

once I noticed root issues I upped to 3ml per gallon for 3 days straight, then tapered to 1 ml per gallon every other day currently

TheOhmOne said:

Let me get back to you on brand shortly, but it is 35% and I used .5ml per gallon at the start each time I added water.

once I noticed root issues I upped to 3ml per gallon for 3 days straight, then tapered to 1 ml per gallon every other day currently

Click to expand...

Did you read that link I gave you? Its important to dilute before using and it gives exact measurements for use. 3 ml per gal could have been what damaged the roots

FourthCity said:

Trying to run a sterile dwc will be a losing battle in all but the most controlled environments. Your best defense against bad microbes is your own army of good microbes. Its much easier to give the good guys what they need and in addition to defense they can provide your plants with nutritional benefits they would otherwise miss out on in a sterile environment.

Click to expand...

With that much aeration good microbes are likely going to bloom and there will be a biofilm on most everything touching the nutrient solution. Feeding the microherd carbs accelerates the process and if left unfed then you deal with bacteria dying off. I'm basing this on personal experience with RDWC, i dropped the carbs but still dosed lightly with Piranha and Tarantula. An enzymatic product like Sensizym may help.

I like AN so i've mentioned what i'm familiar with; i'm equally certain that others here have had as much or more success with similar products from other companies.

There is tons of new root growth.
But...

PPMs have gone up by 40 24 hours.

PH at 5.7

Plants look about the same, maybe slightly worse. Very droopy, not a single dark green leaf. Dark purple almost black stems.

Sadly I think I’m going to call it quits on these ladies and take my first L

New Clones will be transplanted by weekends end.

Rockwool is the best I can do at this very moment.

When purchasing these clones, the roots are established out of the rockwool normally, but just barely. Nothing like what I see online.

My biggest struggle has always a been transplanting the clones. This being clearly my worst attempt. Normally a little discoloration for a week coupled with slow growth, but then they ALWAYS explode!!!

Anywho,

Do you guys recommend that I continue to root them in a separate system to better establish the roots, before placing into the final 120L Res.?


Should I go larger than 3” net pots to play it safe ?

Strains, any strain recommendations? I require OG type strains. Heavy Gas smell, very heavy high.

Does anyone have any experience with any of these strains

Wedding Pie
Nepali Pink
Rozay
Tropicana Cookies
Mimosa
Mendo Breath
Staples OG
24k Gold
Venom OG
Purple Punch
Vanilla Frosting
Whooody
Banana Punch

Normally I am not a fan of the Cookies, Cakes, blue dreams. I really personally only will consume that classic heavy OG, gas smelling. I’m not sure how to describe.
Usually consume on
Gorilla Glues,SFV OG, Skywalker, Types

Thanx again everyone !!

airedog said:

With that much aeration good microbes are likely going to bloom and there will be a biofilm on most everything touching the nutrient solution. Feeding the microherd carbs accelerates the process and if left unfed then you deal with bacteria dying off. I'm basing this on personal experience with RDWC, i dropped the carbs but still dosed lightly with Piranha and Tarantula. An enzymatic product like Sensizym may help.

I like AN so i've mentioned what i'm familiar with; i'm equally certain that others here have had as much or more success with similar products from other companies.

Click to expand...

Hello !!

Care to share your feeding routine and setup a little more ?
ThanI you !!

Aqua Man said:

Did you read that link I gave you? Its important to dilute before using and it gives exact measurements for use. 3 ml per gal could have been what damaged the roots

Click to expand...

I do not see a link I’m sorry. Can you resend?

I normally add it to my about 1 gallon worth nutrients solution when topping of the Res.

I was recommended to go 4ml/G on RiU, but I really was hesitant, and scared.

I will say. This site is much more responsive and active than RiU. I appreciate you all

It works out to 1 ml per gal but you need to dillute it first at least 10 to 1 before adding it to the res. Every 3 days.

Aqua Man said:

Guide to Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) in Hydroponics - Trees.com

If you want to boost the productivity of your crops, chemistry is your best friend. And one common household chemical that can make a world of difference in your hydroponic system is hydrogen peroxide.

www.greenandvibrant.com

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So one gallon being 3.785L, I should add 34ml of 35% peroxide to 3 gallons of water?

Growrx said:

So one gallon being 3.785L, I should add 34ml of 35% peroxide to 3 gallons of water?

Click to expand...

No 3 ml diluted at least 10 times before adding to res.

To make the calculations easy... 1 ml of 30-35% perixxide per gal. But always dilute it before adding

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but you can't PH AN products, the ph perfect line requires no ph up or down. Ignore whatever the ph reads.....meaning do not try to adjust it at all. As long as your starting water is less than 150ppm and ph is inbetween 4.0 to 8.0 your good. That being said, AN recommends using RO water.

Next thing is stop using cal/mag. Between you trying to adjust ph and the addition of cal/mag, you have created a toxic environment. None of the base nutrients from AN require any cal/mag at all. The Sensi line has more than enough already in it.

AN is a super easy nutrient line and works VERY well in DWC. Just change the water every 7 days religiously and it will work fine.....

TheOhmOne said:

I do not see a link I’m sorry. Can you resend?

I normally add it to my about 1 gallon worth nutrients solution when topping of the Res.

I was recommended to go 4ml/G on RiU, but I really was hesitant, and scared.

I will say. This site is much more responsive and active than RiU. I appreciate you all

Click to expand...

I dont run sterile but when you added 3 ml per gal you probably burnt the roots which may have lead to the infection.

I mean southern ag fungicide. 1ml per 20 gal and you have a live system with beneficial bacteria and cheap. Same strain bacillus amyloliquefaciens D747 as hydrogaurd.

TheBioMaster said:

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but you can't PH AN products, the ph perfect line requires no ph up or down. Ignore whatever the ph reads.....meaning do not try to adjust it at all. As long as your starting water is less than 150ppm and ph is inbetween 4.0 to 8.0 your good. That being said, AN recommends using RO water.

Next thing is stop using cal/mag. Between you trying to adjust ph and the addition of cal/mag, you have created a toxic environment. None of the base nutrients from AN require any cal/mag at all. The Sensi line has more than enough already in it.

AN is a super easy nutrient line and works VERY well in DWC. Just change the water every 7 days religiously and it will work fine.....

Click to expand...

Are you kidding this is ph perfect nutrients? How did I not see that.

100% this... DO NOT ADD CAL MAG OR ANY OTHER ADDITIVE TO PH PERFECT.

Fuck this nutrient line.

@TheBioMaster good catch.

I recommend trying Flying Skull's product Z7. It is very inexpensive to use and I have seen it fix this type of problem. It is a combination of an enzyme to "activate" the surface of the root and a bacteria that keeps the roots clear of detritus etc. You can call American Agriculture in Portland OR if you can't find it. Everyone there is knowledgeable but if you can get on the phone with Gordon he is an expert on solving these types of problems.
What I am seeing is stopped plants and purple stems. Reading the responses, all seem like good advise but show the multitude of possible problems. The Z7 will rule out root surface problems and if anything allow you to focus on other issues (like bad water, etc).
Hope this helps... If you contact American Agriculture they may have a sample program running so you can try it out. Cost is a few cents a gallon max and has helped many of the people I have consulted over the years.
Lastly, nice clean setup... I like you style dude.

Cheers

QuindariousGooch said:

I recommend trying Flying Skull's product Z7. It is very inexpensive to use and I have seen it fix this type of problem. It is a combination of an enzyme to "activate" the surface of the root and a bacteria that keeps the roots clear of detritus etc. You can call American Agriculture in Portland OR if you can't find it. Everyone there is knowledgeable but if you can get on the phone with Gordon he is an expert on solving these types of problems.
What I am seeing is stopped plants and purple stems. Reading the responses, all seem like good advise but show the multitude of possible problems. The Z7 will rule out root surface problems and if anything allow you to focus on other issues (like bad water, etc).
Hope this helps... If you contact American Agriculture they may have a sample program running so you can try it out. Cost is a few cents a gallon max and has helped many of the people I have consulted over the years.
Lastly, nice clean setup... I like you style dude.

Cheers

Click to expand...

Enzymes and bacteria... imo a great idea and advice. Many products out there but I have heard some good things about this product.

Woah painful. Sorry for the issues you're having. A couple of people have said something about the overall thing and I'll do the same from a different perspective. I'm an old school grower. And the couple of real life grow buds I have are the same. One uses nft because that's what he know. The other is all about aero. I used a combination of dwc with a bubbler for cloning, bucket system for inside stuff, and 5gal grow bags for outside stuff. And then my house burned. Bonsai mommas, all my equipment, journals, everything... poof. So I had to start all over in a world that has changed a lot. Never show your grow has been a long standing rule, so I avoided places like this. And then I launched a new grow from scratch and uh holy shit.

I'm playing with strains I've never heard of and working with shit I'd never seen before. Eg when the hell did 18/6 become a thing? The only auto I've ever messed with was in the Army. And LEDs are for utility closets right?

First I was going back to buckets and my wife told me to sit down and talk it out with her. I ended up 100% in dirt. Indoor is lit with sunblaze 8 bulb T5HO fixtures... because I'm used to them. And all my plants get kicked outside for the sun for 12 hours each day. Keeps the bills down and they seem to enjoy the natural light. I also do crazy stupid shit all the time just because.

I'm not suggesting any of this good for you or better/worse than anything else. My bud is frosty when it's done. And it will glue your ass to the couch because I always go until the start of amber.

But... that's what's good for me. Growing to me is an individual journey. Everyone takes their own path to end at the same result.

You might want to reassess the path you've chosen. There are much easier ways with higher yields. And 3inch nets pots arent going to give it to you. One of my 5 gal grow bag plants (purple mountain majesty) would be too big for your cooler. Damn things are both approaching 4 ft 2 weeks into flower and are still putting on some stretch. That thing by itself would fill your tank and outgrow your height. What you've built would make a decent cloner with some mods made to it. But there is no way you are going to support a half dozen plants to finish in that thing. No way dude.

Aqua Man said:

Are you kidding this is ph perfect nutrients? How did I not see that.

100% this... DO NOT ADD CAL MAG OR ANY OTHER ADDITIVE TO PH PERFECT.

Fuck this nutrient line.

@TheBioMaster good catch.

Click to expand...

seriously !!!??

TheBioMaster said:

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but you can't PH AN products, the ph perfect line requires no ph up or down. Ignore whatever the ph reads.....meaning do not try to adjust it at all. As long as your starting water is less than 150ppm and ph is inbetween 4.0 to 8.0 your good. That being said, AN recommends using RO water.

Next thing is stop using cal/mag. Between you trying to adjust ph and the addition of cal/mag, you have created a toxic environment. None of the base nutrients from AN require any cal/mag at all. The Sensi line has more than enough already in it.

AN is a super easy nutrient line and works VERY well in DWC. Just change the water every 7 days religiously and it will work fine.....

Click to expand...

What is toxic?
I normally use the Cal mag with the Lucus Formula, but when using Sensi grow I thought I would add it due to the ppm being so low currently.


I understand AN says don’t PH adjust, it just feels not right. I normally do not have to add the PH adjusters though. The Sensi always stays stable.

Looks like it’s time to chop , clean up and start fresh.

What nutrients do you recommend is us in the Res. And how and when do you recommend I add them?