Frankster's Diagnostic Helpline; post your problem child here.

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AZsunfarmer

AZsunfarmer

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Why is my frost game so weak? I can build the colas but I’m disappointed with trichomes. I’ve learned the watering process and used a light soil so I could use the Advanced Nutrients line. I figured as a new grower this would be the best place to start. From all my readings you have personally posted I fret that the AN schedule is ok but doesn’t work for all strains. This heavy AK feeder took a lot during veg and early flower. I was afraid it was getting too much N so I backed off of the N base and went heavy on the bloom nutes (parts 2 and 3 plus big bud) After 2 weeks of this I added overdrive and all the other shit. I think you get the jest of this where I’m blindly following a schedule but not knowing what I’m doing. I want to estimate that my big problem with getting the frosty buds was too much extra phos and all those bloom nutes and not enough sugar and microbes feeding and creating those enzymes? I’m assuming all that phos locked out other essential elements like zinc, sulphur, and magnesium as well? I’m assuming the burnt upward tips point to high PPM and phos?
 
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ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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You have a grasshopper in there? Something is chewing your leaves.
You need a light fan directly on those big foxtailed buds to prevent bud mold.
I like the foxtails. More bud for less.

Yeah, using a feed line with soil has complicated your grow. I see some issues but they seem to have passed already.
Go to the bottom of each bud and strip everything off below it to send more energy to the buds.
Put a UV Lizard bulb in there and your trichs will increase.

Get your RH down to 50% or less.
 
BurnzYzBudZz

BurnzYzBudZz

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Why is my frost game so weak? I can build the colas but I’m disappointed with trichomes. I’ve learned the watering process and used a light soil so I could use the Advanced Nutrients line. I figured as a new grower this would be the best place to start. From all my readings you have personally posted I fret that the AN schedule is ok but doesn’t work for all strains. This heavy AK feeder took a lot during veg and early flower. I was afraid it was getting too much N so I backed off of the N base and went heavy on the bloom nutes (parts 2 and 3 plus big bud) After 2 weeks of this I added overdrive and all the other shit. I think you get the jest of this where I’m blindly following a schedule but not knowing what I’m doing. I want to estimate that my big problem with getting the frosty buds was too much extra phos and all those bloom nutes and not enough sugar and microbes feeding and creating those enzymes? I’m assuming all that phos locked out other essential elements like zinc, sulphur, and magnesium as well? I’m assuming the burnt upward tips point to high PPM and phos?
Need more light. What lights you running and at what ppfd.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Need more light. What lights you running and at what ppfd.
Yea, I think he's got a sf1000 unit; if I'm not mistaken. I agree he should button it down good and get the most out of it.
You have a grasshopper in there? Something is chewing your leaves.
You need a light fan directly on those big foxtailed buds to prevent bud mold.
I like the foxtails. More bud for less.

Yeah, using a feed line with soil has complicated your grow. I see some issues but they seem to have passed already.
Go to the bottom of each bud and strip everything off below it to send more energy to the buds.
Put a UV Lizard bulb in there and your trichs will increase.

Get your RH down to 50% or less.
Looks almost like a cat got it, or a dog. lol, my cat sometimes makes chew marks like that.


I do think it needs to be thinned out some, so those lower buds can get light. Not strip though, just enough to clean up those wayward leaves, and some of those center fans, so the light can get down in there better, and ripen up the bottoms also.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Why is my frost game so weak? I can build the colas but I’m disappointed with trichomes. I’ve learned the watering process and used a light soil so I could use the Advanced Nutrients line. I figured as a new grower this would be the best place to start. From all my readings you have personally posted I fret that the AN schedule is ok but doesn’t work for all strains. This heavy AK feeder took a lot during veg and early flower. I was afraid it was getting too much N so I backed off of the N base and went heavy on the bloom nutes (parts 2 and 3 plus big bud) After 2 weeks of this I added overdrive and all the other shit. I think you get the jest of this where I’m blindly following a schedule but not knowing what I’m doing. I want to estimate that my big problem with getting the frosty buds was too much extra phos and all those bloom nutes and not enough sugar and microbes feeding and creating those enzymes? I’m assuming all that phos locked out other essential elements like zinc, sulphur, and magnesium as well? I’m assuming the burnt upward tips point to high PPM and phos?
Nah, I think your still on track.

Everything still looks good from where I stand. Your light is mostly the limiting factor here; although it's holding up amazingly well for all those cola's. sf1000 correct?

Please refresh me again on the cultivar? was it an AK47 Auto; or the photoperiod one? My guess is this variety is around 9-10 weeks flowering. If I remember right; I haven't run it personally for a few years. I think it was Mosh who did it last, actually. Looks good so far, more time. But this is no doubt a critical point from here forward.

As for thickening; I think your over the hump for the most part with the phos, can be tapered; and need to just give more time; fluvic builds density; continue with the enzymes, maybe clear out a few of those awkward looking fan leaves along the sides; so you don't run into any mold, or issues, take out a few of those center ones also. Good air flow, and light penetration. If you have amino acids, the plant can use them also now. (I use GABA gamma aminobutyric acid), along with a pure soluble fluvic now. I phase out my humics toward the end. Enzymes, fermented micros with trace sugar. That all appears to build density, but always go easy, with everything. Monitor pH, 6.2-6.5 is where I shoot here.

1/4 tsp per gallon is fine IMO. If it's hungry, go up to 1/2 tsp per gal, no more. I add acids last, or after mixing the calcium nitrate; which is generally the third ingredient into my mix, after base and mag/sulfate. I am so methodical with my mixing. double, triple checking end pH. Bit of calcium hydroxide, or potassium hydroxide to balance things out, again, if it's on the acidic end. Microbials always at the end, then recheck pH, prior to giving if any fermenting is done.
Humicfluvic


The other limiting factor here can be RH; the dry really helps stimulates resin production in my mind. So, if DE humid isn't in the future, we got to do what we can to counter it. Hopefully the humidity there isn't a real issue. Open it up; increase air circulation, and spray lactobacillus as added protection. Taking care to pH correct foliar, the farther you get to the end; the more any spray need to be dialed in precisely. Done lightly. Clean water; organisms, and minute trace of sugar, nothing more. pH up to 7.5-8 if you can to prevent PM, with potassium hydroxide, or pH up.

Sulfur/mag look fine, I see no problems in that vein. lowers lights, move it up if you want; I wouldn't go closer than say 10 or 12 inches, and watch the response. ie. excessive praying or cupping. Your still a good 3 to 4 weeks or so out, at least. IMO. Maybe even 5. What is the flip date again, please.

As for any trace ambers on the sugar leaves; that's a strange one I've seen happen occasionally. I see it with RH issues, sometimes. So keeping mold, or excessive moisture in check is critical.

Interested to hear what others have to suggest.

Inked7FFB62FD 9C9F 4EDC 9DA8 02751490CBA1 LI
 
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Goblinkiller

Goblinkiller

661
143
Would you use a product like atazyme in flower? Its enzymes that break down dead roots and turn them into nutrients. Have used it earlier on a plant that looked bad. Curious if it would be a good thing to use it otherwise as well. I see you speak of fulvic acid and enzymes often
 
AZsunfarmer

AZsunfarmer

65
33
Nah, I think your still on track.

Everything still looks good from where I stand. Your light is mostly the limiting factor here; although it's holding up amazingly well for all those cola's. sf1000 correct?

Please refresh me again on the cultivar? was it an AK47 Auto; or the photoperiod one? My guess is this variety is around 9-10 weeks flowering. If I remember right; I haven't run it personally for a few years. I think it was Mosh who did it last, actually. Looks good so far, more time. But this is no doubt a critical point from here forward.

As for thickening; I think your over the hump for the most part with the phos, can be tapered; and need to just give more time; fluvic builds density; continue with the enzymes, maybe clear out a few of those awkward looking fan leaves along the sides; so you don't run into any mold, or issues, take out a few of those center ones also. Good air flow, and light penetration. If you have amino acids, the plant can use them also now. (I use GABA gamma aminobutyric acid), along with a pure soluble fluvic now. I phase out my humics toward the end. Enzymes, fermented micros with trace sugar. That all appears to build density, but always go easy, with everything. Monitor pH, 6.2-6.5 is where I shoot here.

1/4 tsp per gallon is fine IMO. If it's hungry, go up to 1/2 tsp per gal, no more. I add acids last, or after mixing the calcium nitrate; which is generally the third ingredient into my mix, after base and mag/sulfate. I am so methodical with my mixing. double, triple checking end pH. Bit of calcium hydroxide, or potassium hydroxide to balance things out, again, if it's on the acidic end. Microbials always at the end, then recheck pH, prior to giving if any fermenting is done.
View attachment 1189147

The other limiting factor here can be RH; the dry really helps stimulates resin production in my mind. So, if DE humid isn't in the future, we got to do what we can to counter it. Hopefully the humidity there isn't a real issue. Open it up; increase air circulation, and spray lactobacillus as added protection. Taking care to pH correct foliar, the farther you get to the end; the more any spray need to be dialed in precisely. Done lightly. Clean water; organisms, and minute trace of sugar, nothing more. pH up to 7.5-8 if you can to prevent PM, with potassium hydroxide, or pH up.

Sulfur/mag look fine, I see no problems in that vein. lowers lights, move it up if you want; I wouldn't go closer than say 10 or 12 inches, and watch the response. ie. excessive praying or cupping. Your still a good 3 to 4 weeks or so out, at least. IMO. Maybe even 5. What is the flip date again, please.

As for any trace ambers on the sugar leaves; that's a strange one I've seen happen occasionally. I see it with RH issues, sometimes. So keeping mold, or excessive moisture in check is critical.

Interested to hear what others have to suggest.

View attachment 1189149
I’m running the viprspectra xs2000 at around 18-20 inches turned down to around 60-75%. I’m getting a lot of cupping of the top leaves. I was thinking about raising it a few more inches so I can turn the light up more. I have a decent fan at the bottom blowing cool air straight up through the leaves pushing warm air up past the light. RH is stuck around 40-50%. There isn’t much more I can do about it, we haven’t cooled and dried out like normal for this time of year. Still staying in mid 80’s with decent humidity. I don’t think I’ll have to use a heater this winter in the valley of da sun.
 
Oldchucky

Oldchucky

450
93
Had the same problem, Arizona. Let them go extra long but the trikes just didn’t materialize in any great number. Still stumped. Seed supplier problems from the get-go. Maybe got sent someCBD leaning strains? Were started late and had a rough start? Buds were hard and sticky but trike development sucked! Wound up with a bunch of mediocre weed. Outdoors. Win some and you lose some. Good luck.
 
Oldchucky

Oldchucky

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93
I wonder if two months of smoke filtered sunlight could contribute to it. I am still leaning toward bad genes.Hesitant to take the blame myself. But that is possible.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Would you use a product like atazyme in flower? Its enzymes that break down dead roots and turn them into nutrients. Have used it earlier on a plant that looked bad. Curious if it would be a good thing to use it otherwise as well. I see you speak of fulvic acid and enzymes often
Absolutely, affirmative. Enzymes are proteins that help speed up metabolism, or the chemical reactions. If that's made from a bacterial source, it's likely got some surfactant activity in there also. Cleaning up the root zone, breaking down; waste removal, and better overall nutrient scavenging. Acid phosphatase is a ubiquitous (it's everywhere; in all life forms) lysosomal enzyme that hydrolyses organic phosphates at an acid pH.

I make mine from scratch, with organisms and this raw unfiltered honey I found at the store. Only 2 bottles on the whole rack that had tons of waxes in them. I think there were bottoms or tops of the vats. Lots of good stuff in there. But word of caution; if you make your own enzymes like I do; take care to monitor pH throughout the process.

IMG 20211117 145352393 1
 
Frankster

Frankster

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I’m running the viprspectra xs2000 at around 18-20 inches turned down to around 60-75%. I’m getting a lot of cupping of the top leaves. I was thinking about raising it a few more inches so I can turn the light up more. I have a decent fan at the bottom blowing cool air straight up through the leaves pushing warm air up past the light. RH is stuck around 40-50%. There isn’t much more I can do about it, we haven’t cooled and dried out like normal for this time of year. Still staying in mid 80’s with decent humidity. I don’t think I’ll have to use a heater this winter in the valley of da sun.
Agreed, the taco; cupping; canoeing is a concern. I would monitor it, and not take any drastic action.. RH doesn't really seem an issue where your at TBH. I think your mostly on track here, I wouldn't be too concerned about a few ambers on outlier leaves. Now that your in full bloom and past the swell; we simply need to fill the density and gaps going forward.

Icing on the cake. 😜 Fluvic can help with that; if your not already doing it.
 
Goblinkiller

Goblinkiller

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Thanks again for replying and providing information. I dont fullt grasp all concepts you speak off but appreciating the information nonetheless. Time to atazyme that flower
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Thanks again for replying and providing information. I dont fullt grasp all concepts you speak off but appreciating the information nonetheless. Time to atazyme that flower
Yea; I get long winded, sorry. I try to cover all the bases; and sometimes it's just TMI😬 Just trying to suggest there's cheaper; or more frugal means to do some things; and they can often do things just as effectively, sometimes better.

Rolling some of this up. mmmm. somewhat shaggy and oh so stinky.
IMG 20211117 235831937
IMG 20211118 000102620
 
AZsunfarmer

AZsunfarmer

65
33
Agreed, the taco; cupping; canoeing is a concern. I would monitor it, and not take any drastic action.. RH doesn't really seem an issue where your at TBH. I think your mostly on track here, I wouldn't be too concerned about a few ambers on outlier leaves. Now that your in full bloom and past the swell; we simply need to fill the density and gaps going forward.

Icing on the cake. 😜 Fluvic can help with that; if your not already doing it.
Is there anything better than Mr. Fulvic out there are or is that the go to? I use it because Bill Farthing has recommended it in his budget ballin threads. I use it every water at 3ml/gal. Also, you’ve suggested GABA a lot, what form do you get that in and what kinda dosage do you use, or is it something that is microbial produced?
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Is there anything better than Mr. Fulvic out there are or is that the go to? I use it because Bill Farthing has recommended it in his budget ballin threads. I use it every water at 3ml/gal. Also, you’ve suggested GABA a lot, what form do you get that in and what kinda dosage do you use, or is it something that is microbial produced?

The amazing quality about fluvic and salts; is they compliment one another; and have a solubility synergy. They expand the water solubility dynamics. Much like radiator fluid keeps your H20 from boiling over, and/or freezing in subzero temps...

Yes, IMO there's two ways to go, possibly. I've done both actually. Either way, use a solid form (100% soluble), quality matters on this item. I use the humic/fluvic mix early, and switch over too the pure fluvic later in flower, after the swell, cause I feel it's more trichome & terpene specific..

I also do light foliar before 12/12 switch, and after, to enhance budding set, and to buffer the salicylic acid (hormone) treatment. That's usually a 1x or 2x deal during flip and week 1



humic and fluvic acids are chelators. They combine minerals to make them into organic compounds that can be ingested by plants more easily. They also enable the soil to hold more water and can increase the water infiltration of the soil. So add them into your mixture last. After alkaline extraction, fluvic and humic acids are then separated by further acidification of the obtained leachate. The small molecular weight fluvic acids remain in solution after precipitation of the high molecular weight humic acids by acidification at pH = 1 Fluvic acids cannot be readily synthesized because of their extremely complex nature, although lignosulfonates from the pulp and paper industry can appear similar to fluvic acids.

Some people use something like tree smoke instead (very similar molecular composition). This one should work; although I've never personally tried it; it's something I do want to try. https://www.amazon.com/Hoosier-Hill-Farm-Hickory-Powder/dp/B015OT98DQ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=hardwood+smoked+powder&qid=1637289221&qsid=145-0662862-7521319&sr=8-8&sres=B09FTPX1Y2,B08H6849V3,B07PBFFNZ4,B000MO8G28,B01LZ3XEKY,B07Q24L7GS,B07YJSBN8C,B015OT98DQ,B072J8Z28F,B00E5DSL0E,B07D9Z7ZPV,B007EFOEOW,B07S5F379R,B077KGCBJL,B01EKJ941C,B0035R224C,B01F2YP954,B07PCJKFPN,B009BFBNWO,B013M4COAE

Here are the humic, fluvic links.



Kelp4less is also available on eBay, and while his stuff is a bit more on the pricy side, all those products are of exceptional quality.
When I open my humic/fluvic, my nose starts burning, immediately. Kelp, and amino acids can fit in alongside this regime in an organic grow, like a 3 way mixture. So there's certainly room for deploying some variations to this method.

I use around 1/4 tsp per gallon; which is on the higher side.

Humicfluvic
 
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