BionicKroniK
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- Jun 11, 2021
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Yeeeah riiiiiiiight...
Yeeeah riiiiiiiight...I'm so camera shy.
Only because it's my job to be in front.Yeeeah riiiiiiiight...That's why "I'm" the one BEHIND the camera and not you!
Need more light. What lights you running and at what ppfd.Why is my frost game so weak? I can build the colas but I’m disappointed with trichomes. I’ve learned the watering process and used a light soil so I could use the Advanced Nutrients line. I figured as a new grower this would be the best place to start. From all my readings you have personally posted I fret that the AN schedule is ok but doesn’t work for all strains. This heavy AK feeder took a lot during veg and early flower. I was afraid it was getting too much N so I backed off of the N base and went heavy on the bloom nutes (parts 2 and 3 plus big bud) After 2 weeks of this I added overdrive and all the other shit. I think you get the jest of this where I’m blindly following a schedule but not knowing what I’m doing. I want to estimate that my big problem with getting the frosty buds was too much extra phos and all those bloom nutes and not enough sugar and microbes feeding and creating those enzymes? I’m assuming all that phos locked out other essential elements like zinc, sulphur, and magnesium as well? I’m assuming the burnt upward tips point to high PPM and phos?
Yea, I think he's got a sf1000 unit; if I'm not mistaken. I agree he should button it down good and get the most out of it.Need more light. What lights you running and at what ppfd.
Looks almost like a cat got it, or a dog. lol, my cat sometimes makes chew marks like that.You have a grasshopper in there? Something is chewing your leaves.
You need a light fan directly on those big foxtailed buds to prevent bud mold.
I like the foxtails. More bud for less.
Yeah, using a feed line with soil has complicated your grow. I see some issues but they seem to have passed already.
Go to the bottom of each bud and strip everything off below it to send more energy to the buds.
Put a UV Lizard bulb in there and your trichs will increase.
Get your RH down to 50% or less.
Nah, I think your still on track.Why is my frost game so weak? I can build the colas but I’m disappointed with trichomes. I’ve learned the watering process and used a light soil so I could use the Advanced Nutrients line. I figured as a new grower this would be the best place to start. From all my readings you have personally posted I fret that the AN schedule is ok but doesn’t work for all strains. This heavy AK feeder took a lot during veg and early flower. I was afraid it was getting too much N so I backed off of the N base and went heavy on the bloom nutes (parts 2 and 3 plus big bud) After 2 weeks of this I added overdrive and all the other shit. I think you get the jest of this where I’m blindly following a schedule but not knowing what I’m doing. I want to estimate that my big problem with getting the frosty buds was too much extra phos and all those bloom nutes and not enough sugar and microbes feeding and creating those enzymes? I’m assuming all that phos locked out other essential elements like zinc, sulphur, and magnesium as well? I’m assuming the burnt upward tips point to high PPM and phos?
I’m running the viprspectra xs2000 at around 18-20 inches turned down to around 60-75%. I’m getting a lot of cupping of the top leaves. I was thinking about raising it a few more inches so I can turn the light up more. I have a decent fan at the bottom blowing cool air straight up through the leaves pushing warm air up past the light. RH is stuck around 40-50%. There isn’t much more I can do about it, we haven’t cooled and dried out like normal for this time of year. Still staying in mid 80’s with decent humidity. I don’t think I’ll have to use a heater this winter in the valley of da sun.Nah, I think your still on track.
Everything still looks good from where I stand. Your light is mostly the limiting factor here; although it's holding up amazingly well for all those cola's. sf1000 correct?
Please refresh me again on the cultivar? was it an AK47 Auto; or the photoperiod one? My guess is this variety is around 9-10 weeks flowering. If I remember right; I haven't run it personally for a few years. I think it was Mosh who did it last, actually. Looks good so far, more time. But this is no doubt a critical point from here forward.
As for thickening; I think your over the hump for the most part with the phos, can be tapered; and need to just give more time; fluvic builds density; continue with the enzymes, maybe clear out a few of those awkward looking fan leaves along the sides; so you don't run into any mold, or issues, take out a few of those center ones also. Good air flow, and light penetration. If you have amino acids, the plant can use them also now. (I use GABA gamma aminobutyric acid), along with a pure soluble fluvic now. I phase out my humics toward the end. Enzymes, fermented micros with trace sugar. That all appears to build density, but always go easy, with everything. Monitor pH, 6.2-6.5 is where I shoot here.
1/4 tsp per gallon is fine IMO. If it's hungry, go up to 1/2 tsp per gal, no more. I add acids last, or after mixing the calcium nitrate; which is generally the third ingredient into my mix, after base and mag/sulfate. I am so methodical with my mixing. double, triple checking end pH. Bit of calcium hydroxide, or potassium hydroxide to balance things out, again, if it's on the acidic end. Microbials always at the end, then recheck pH, prior to giving if any fermenting is done.
View attachment 1189147
The other limiting factor here can be RH; the dry really helps stimulates resin production in my mind. So, if DE humid isn't in the future, we got to do what we can to counter it. Hopefully the humidity there isn't a real issue. Open it up; increase air circulation, and spray lactobacillus as added protection. Taking care to pH correct foliar, the farther you get to the end; the more any spray need to be dialed in precisely. Done lightly. Clean water; organisms, and minute trace of sugar, nothing more. pH up to 7.5-8 if you can to prevent PM, with potassium hydroxide, or pH up.
Sulfur/mag look fine, I see no problems in that vein. lowers lights, move it up if you want; I wouldn't go closer than say 10 or 12 inches, and watch the response. ie. excessive praying or cupping. Your still a good 3 to 4 weeks or so out, at least. IMO. Maybe even 5. What is the flip date again, please.
As for any trace ambers on the sugar leaves; that's a strange one I've seen happen occasionally. I see it with RH issues, sometimes. So keeping mold, or excessive moisture in check is critical.
Interested to hear what others have to suggest.
View attachment 1189149
Absolutely, affirmative. Enzymes are proteins that help speed up metabolism, or the chemical reactions. If that's made from a bacterial source, it's likely got some surfactant activity in there also. Cleaning up the root zone, breaking down; waste removal, and better overall nutrient scavenging. Acid phosphatase is a ubiquitous (it's everywhere; in all life forms) lysosomal enzyme that hydrolyses organic phosphates at an acid pH.Would you use a product like atazyme in flower? Its enzymes that break down dead roots and turn them into nutrients. Have used it earlier on a plant that looked bad. Curious if it would be a good thing to use it otherwise as well. I see you speak of fulvic acid and enzymes often
Agreed, the taco; cupping; canoeing is a concern. I would monitor it, and not take any drastic action.. RH doesn't really seem an issue where your at TBH. I think your mostly on track here, I wouldn't be too concerned about a few ambers on outlier leaves. Now that your in full bloom and past the swell; we simply need to fill the density and gaps going forward.I’m running the viprspectra xs2000 at around 18-20 inches turned down to around 60-75%. I’m getting a lot of cupping of the top leaves. I was thinking about raising it a few more inches so I can turn the light up more. I have a decent fan at the bottom blowing cool air straight up through the leaves pushing warm air up past the light. RH is stuck around 40-50%. There isn’t much more I can do about it, we haven’t cooled and dried out like normal for this time of year. Still staying in mid 80’s with decent humidity. I don’t think I’ll have to use a heater this winter in the valley of da sun.
Yea; I get long winded, sorry. I try to cover all the bases; and sometimes it's just TMIThanks again for replying and providing information. I dont fullt grasp all concepts you speak off but appreciating the information nonetheless. Time to atazyme that flower
Is there anything better than Mr. Fulvic out there are or is that the go to? I use it because Bill Farthing has recommended it in his budget ballin threads. I use it every water at 3ml/gal. Also, you’ve suggested GABA a lot, what form do you get that in and what kinda dosage do you use, or is it something that is microbial produced?Agreed, the taco; cupping; canoeing is a concern. I would monitor it, and not take any drastic action.. RH doesn't really seem an issue where your at TBH. I think your mostly on track here, I wouldn't be too concerned about a few ambers on outlier leaves. Now that your in full bloom and past the swell; we simply need to fill the density and gaps going forward.
Icing on the cake.Fluvic can help with that; if your not already doing it.
Is there anything better than Mr. Fulvic out there are or is that the go to? I use it because Bill Farthing has recommended it in his budget ballin threads. I use it every water at 3ml/gal. Also, you’ve suggested GABA a lot, what form do you get that in and what kinda dosage do you use, or is it something that is microbial produced?
| Kingdom: | Plantae |
| Clade: | Tracheophytes |
| Clade: | Angiosperms |
| Clade: | Eudicots |
| Order: | Proteales |
| Family: | Platanaceae |
| Genus: | Platanus |
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