Grow #2 - Indoor hydro tent

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Frankster

Frankster

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Thats all well above my pay grade lol
I've actually made several contacts, so I could do this. I've talked to the manufactures, and looked at their machine capabilities.

So do you think there would be a big market for "disposable" compostable grow bags? To do it justice, I would have to purchase a few thousand $$$ to do it, (plus shipping and ebay charges for selling), maybe a website for direct orders, and maybe a few more, thousand $$$ (probably around 5k) for different choices, sizes, thickness whatnot. But I've got the sources, so you think it might be worth it? Could I charge maybe $1-$2 per bag, if they were good size? I'm talking people that would want to buy them by the hundreds, or at least dozens of them.

I wouldn't mind doing it, because there's not anything out there like this, nada.
I would have to double my money when it's all said and done, hopefully triple it, and for small orders it would have to be higher.

I can get thicker materials than these, but the price goes up, somewhat.
I would try and keep the ones around a gallon around $1, and those at 3-5 gallon at $2-$3 respectively, but they would be a little heavier. dozen or half dozen minimums.
 
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cemchris

cemchris

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These are my "intermediate pots" they are after the peat pots, and before the cloth ones, they simply allow the plant to be "transplanted" without taking it out of anything, reducing overall trauma, while keeping appropriate bag size thought the life cycle.

I purchase them by the hundreds for little of nothing. There called "tree seedling bags" on ebay. I get the largest ones, 20x10 cm I believe, but I got some smaller ones here also, just to try them out (pictured around the med bottle).

Just got the new lode of them today, as I ran out of the original 200 I purchased, so I got 200 more, I think I paid $9 or just 5 cents per bag.
I even considered going to alibaba and making a huge order of "custom bags" of slightly thicker material, larger and selling them on ebay as "sets" I bet I could make money.


N1 my dude. Thx.

I usually order my 1 gal fabrics from the ali @ 100-500 at a time. Ain't nobody got enough time to wash pots lol. Those are exactly what im looking for since I toss them after 1 run.
 
cemchris

cemchris

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Also "toxic" levels of Si is usually above 200 ppm. You would really need to be dosing or amending like crazy to reach those numbers. You would also have a world of problems before you ever reached that amount.

As far as an accumulator I have doubts on that since they never really find high levels of Si in tissue cultures or leaf tests.
 
Nate_in_AK

Nate_in_AK

Blueberry's number were whacked this morning. Did a 50% res change. Now 6.05/325ppm. She looks like the punchline to some kinda bad joke still. I drizzled about 50ml of anti-fungal treated water around the stalk base. The res is always treated with anti-fungal; exposed but non-submerged roots have been treated 3 times with anti-fungal water over the past week.
1599433435734.png


White kicking ass and taking names as usual:
1599433500354.png

She pulled the res down from 1180 to 880 and drank 2cm of water in the past 48 hours (ish). Currently reading 6.2/880.
 
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Nate_in_AK

Nate_in_AK

Dumbass Blueberry auto thinks it's time to flower... anyone disagree?? I don't think I'll buy anymore autoflower seeds, they seem to be fragile as hell.
1599521154446.png


White Widow of course continues to keep my spirits up.
1599521244098.png


I can't quite get her desired PPM locked down, it fluctuates a bit, but right around 900 seems to be where she is happy right now.

So, how do I decide when to flip the lights to 12/12 and put her into flower mode?
She's on week 5 of veg right now, if we count from when she sprouted her first tiny leaves.

I had intended to switch to 12/12 when Blueberry started flowering, but that was back when I thought Blueberry was going to grow into a real plant.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

Staff member
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Dumbass Blueberry auto thinks it's time to flower... anyone disagree?? I don't think I'll buy anymore autoflower seeds, they seem to be fragile as hell.
View attachment 1027390

White Widow of course continues to keep my spirits up.
View attachment 1027391

I can't quite get her desired PPM locked down, it fluctuates a bit, but right around 900 seems to be where she is happy right now.

So, how do I decide when to flip the lights to 12/12 and put her into flower mode?
She's on week 5 of veg right now, if we count from when she sprouted her first tiny leaves.

I had intended to switch to 12/12 when Blueberry started flowering, but that was back when I thought Blueberry was going to grow into a real plant.
Just remember that white widow will double in height and width.
 
Nate_in_AK

Nate_in_AK

Just remember that white widow will double in height and width.
I still need to move her to the new big res, and I should do that before I switch to flower. I think I'll shoot for getting her moved tomorrow or the next day and give her a few days to settle in new water before changing the lights.
 
aaxiii

aaxiii

Imo and I may get some flack from some growers is that 75f is fine. I won't go into the whole ins and outs unless someone wants to. There is a slightly less dissolved oxygen at the temp but it's absolutely doable. The issue is you need to make sure you are either running a sterile system like hydrogen peroxide or a live system like hydrogaurd. This will prevent root infections from occurring and no matter what temp you run one of the 2 is a must. I run my hydro system at 72f. The other important factor is to make sure you have good gas exchange. If you want a cheap way without a chiller put your system on a basement concrete floor and use a small aquarium heater like $30 to maintain your temps. Much cheaper than a chiller.

Omg what is gas exhcange? Something else I need to learn now? Man, I wish I would have been this eager to learn in college. Might have taken 4 years instead of 7. I am googling gas exchange hope i dont get see anything freaky.
 
aaxiii

aaxiii

I forgot to share the best change I made to my grow op this round... Stilts!!!
View attachment 1011552
This puts the buckets at chest level, will make maintenance so much easier.
Note the orange strap anchoring it to the wall via good lag bolts into studs.

Daily shots:
View attachment 1011553

View attachment 1011554

Also, @Aqua Man , I moved my lights down to get 5K on the sproutlings. ☀

OMG chest level. genius. I would I could put my big ass tent up high like that. I hate bending down to put cords through holes.
 
Nate_in_AK

Nate_in_AK

OMG chest level. genius. I would I could put my big ass tent up high like that. I hate bending down to put cords through holes.
I had to do some basic engineering on the weight load vs that little ass table when upgrading the res size, but I'm only at 2/3rds load. I'll watch it for sagging and brace it if necessary.

Also, XKCD: https://xkcd.com/37/ 😁😆🤣
 
Frankster

Frankster

Supporter
Here's a chart that explains it well enough. My guess is that in hydro situations, your closer to the "salt" water then the "fresh" water concentrations. The higher the ppm, the lower the overall oxygen "potential" saturation rate.


images.png

Another useful diagram regarding co2 concentrations and blackmans principle of limiting factors.
This principle states that when a process is governed by more than one factor, the rate of the process is governed by that factor which is closest to its minimum value.

Photosynthesis-300x201.jpg

For example, if a leaf is exposed to a certain amount of light intensity with constant temperature but the CO2 available is less, the rate of photosynthesis will not increase with an increase in the light intensity. Therefore, in this case, CO2 is the limiting factor.


Even in regards to nutrition, it's about maximizing the "limiting" factors.

Now, the note of caution, For example: (note: were talking about atmospheric oxygen on this diagram, not water at the root zone) Optimum levels of oxygen are favourable for photosynthesis. An increase in the oxygen levels beyond the optimum for the plant leads to inhibition of photosynthesis. So there's a set "range" which is optimal, but BEYOND that, causes inhibition (competes w/CO2)
oxygenlevel.jpg


This bottom principle is especially important when considering things like PPM in your solution, because it will increase to a point, but after that point, it will start to inhibit again, and the fall off will be great. (resulting in nutrient locks) ph, respiration rates, light intensity, and temps are all going to factor in on exactly "where" ppm is "most optimal".
 
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Frankster

Frankster

Supporter
I like aqua's approach to these problems, because he effectively "reboots" the plant, allowing it to cool down and rest while the conditions are reset, creating far less stress on the plant, and allowing for things to be ramped up once again in an organized fashion, once the problems are corrected.
 

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