Grow #2 - Indoor hydro tent

Frankster · Sep 6, 2020

Aqua Man said:
Thats all well above my pay grade lol

I've actually made several contacts, so I could do this. I've talked to the manufactures, and looked at their machine capabilities.

So do you think there would be a big market for "disposable" compostable grow bags? To do it justice, I would have to purchase a few thousand $$$ to do it, (plus shipping and ebay charges for selling), maybe a website for direct orders, and maybe a few more, thousand $$$ (probably around 5k) for different choices, sizes, thickness whatnot. But I've got the sources, so you think it might be worth it? Could I charge maybe $1-$2 per bag, if they were good size? I'm talking people that would want to buy them by the hundreds, or at least dozens of them.

I wouldn't mind doing it, because there's not anything out there like this, nada.
I would have to double my money when it's all said and done, hopefully triple it, and for small orders it would have to be higher.

I can get thicker materials than these, but the price goes up, somewhat.
I would try and keep the ones around a gallon around $1, and those at 3-5 gallon at $2-$3 respectively, but they would be a little heavier. dozen or half dozen minimums.

cemchris · Sep 6, 2020

Frankster said:
These are my "intermediate pots" they are after the peat pots, and before the cloth ones, they simply allow the plant to be "transplanted" without taking it out of anything, reducing overall trauma, while keeping appropriate bag size thought the life cycle.

I purchase them by the hundreds for little of nothing. There called "tree seedling bags" on ebay. I get the largest ones, 20x10 cm I believe, but I got some smaller ones here also, just to try them out (pictured around the med bottle).

Just got the new lode of them today, as I ran out of the original 200 I purchased, so I got 200 more, I think I paid $9 or just 5 cents per bag.

Frankster said:
I even considered going to alibaba and making a huge order of "custom bags" of slightly thicker material, larger and selling them on ebay as "sets" I bet I could make money.

N1 my dude. Thx.

I usually order my 1 gal fabrics from the ali @ 100-500 at a time. Ain't nobody got enough time to wash pots lol. Those are exactly what im looking for since I toss them after 1 run.

cemchris · Sep 6, 2020

Also "toxic" levels of Si is usually above 200 ppm. You would really need to be dosing or amending like crazy to reach those numbers. You would also have a world of problems before you ever reached that amount.

As far as an accumulator I have doubts on that since they never really find high levels of Si in tissue cultures or leaf tests.

Nate_in_AK · Sep 6, 2020

Blueberry's number were whacked this morning. Did a 50% res change. Now 6.05/325ppm. She looks like the punchline to some kinda bad joke still. I drizzled about 50ml of anti-fungal treated water around the stalk base. The res is always treated with anti-fungal; exposed but non-submerged roots have been treated 3 times with anti-fungal water over the past week.

White kicking ass and taking names as usual:

She pulled the res down from 1180 to 880 and drank 2cm of water in the past 48 hours (ish). Currently reading 6.2/880.

Nate_in_AK · Sep 7, 2020

Dumbass Blueberry auto thinks it's time to flower... anyone disagree?? I don't think I'll buy anymore autoflower seeds, they seem to be fragile as hell.

White Widow of course continues to keep my spirits up.

I can't quite get her desired PPM locked down, it fluctuates a bit, but right around 900 seems to be where she is happy right now.

So, how do I decide when to flip the lights to 12/12 and put her into flower mode?
She's on week 5 of veg right now, if we count from when she sprouted her first tiny leaves.

I had intended to switch to 12/12 when Blueberry started flowering, but that was back when I thought Blueberry was going to grow into a real plant.

Aqua Man · Sep 7, 2020

Nate_in_AK said:
Dumbass Blueberry auto thinks it's time to flower... anyone disagree?? I don't think I'll buy anymore autoflower seeds, they seem to be fragile as hell.
View attachment 1027390

White Widow of course continues to keep my spirits up.
View attachment 1027391

I can't quite get her desired PPM locked down, it fluctuates a bit, but right around 900 seems to be where she is happy right now.

So, how do I decide when to flip the lights to 12/12 and put her into flower mode?
She's on week 5 of veg right now, if we count from when she sprouted her first tiny leaves.

I had intended to switch to 12/12 when Blueberry started flowering, but that was back when I thought Blueberry was going to grow into a real plant.

Just remember that white widow will double in height and width.

Nate_in_AK · Sep 7, 2020

Aqua Man said:
Just remember that white widow will double in height and width.

I still need to move her to the new big res, and I should do that before I switch to flower. I think I'll shoot for getting her moved tomorrow or the next day and give her a few days to settle in new water before changing the lights.

Aqua Man · Sep 7, 2020

Nate_in_AK said:
I still need to move her to the new big res, and I should do that before I switch to flower. I think I'll shoot for getting her moved tomorrow or the next day and give her a few days to settle in new water before changing the lights.

Sounds like a solid plan

Nate_in_AK · Sep 9, 2020

Tada.

37 gallon res filled to around 25 gallons (estimate). Fresh Southern AG anti-fungal, plus Growth Science Nutrients A/B/SS. I almost threw out Blueberry, but figured it likely doesn't hurt anything to let her be and see if she produces a gram. Haha.

Aqua Man · Sep 9, 2020

Nate_in_AK said:
Tada.

View attachment 1028417

37 gallon res filled to around 25 gallons (estimate). Fresh Southern AG anti-fungal, plus Growth Science Nutrients A/B/SS. I almost threw out Blueberry, but figured it likely doesn't hurt anything to let her be and see if she produces a gram. Haha.

Nice... How much Southern Ag did you add?

Nate_in_AK · Sep 9, 2020

Aqua Man said:
Nice... How much Southern Ag did you add?

I pre-mixed a 20oz bottle and marked it 1-2ml per gallon. I added a little over 40ml of pre-mix.

P.S. - also painted the underside of the lid BLACK since it passes a lot of light unmodified.

Aqua Man · Sep 9, 2020

Nate_in_AK said:
I pre-mixed a 20oz bottle and marked it 1-2ml per gallon. I added a little over 40ml of pre-mix.

P.S. - also painted the underside of the lid BLACK since it passes a lot of light unmodified.

Nice should take a pic of roots today then in a week

Frankster · Sep 9, 2020

Aqua Man said:
Nice should take a pic of roots today then in a week

Yup, reference pictures for the roots while there healthy going into flower, will be good to have for comparison later on. Maybe get a shot with the lights on and the lights off even, with flash, so you can get the "true" color representation.

Aqua Man · Sep 9, 2020

I would also top feed a cup to get that southern AG through the roots

Nate_in_AK · Sep 9, 2020

White Widow roots:

Blueberry roots:

I did top-feed trickle several times with SAG mixture over the past week.

aaxiii · Sep 9, 2020

Aqua Man said:
Imo and I may get some flack from some growers is that 75f is fine. I won't go into the whole ins and outs unless someone wants to. There is a slightly less dissolved oxygen at the temp but it's absolutely doable. The issue is you need to make sure you are either running a sterile system like hydrogen peroxide or a live system like hydrogaurd. This will prevent root infections from occurring and no matter what temp you run one of the 2 is a must. I run my hydro system at 72f. The other important factor is to make sure you have good gas exchange. If you want a cheap way without a chiller put your system on a basement concrete floor and use a small aquarium heater like $30 to maintain your temps. Much cheaper than a chiller.

Omg what is gas exhcange? Something else I need to learn now? Man, I wish I would have been this eager to learn in college. Might have taken 4 years instead of 7. I am googling gas exchange hope i dont get see anything freaky.

aaxiii · Sep 9, 2020

Nate_in_AK said:
I forgot to share the best change I made to my grow op this round... Stilts!!!
View attachment 1011552
This puts the buckets at chest level, will make maintenance so much easier.
Note the orange strap anchoring it to the wall via good lag bolts into studs.

Daily shots:
View attachment 1011553

View attachment 1011554

Also, @Aqua Man , I moved my lights down to get 5K on the sproutlings. ☀

OMG chest level. genius. I would I could put my big ass tent up high like that. I hate bending down to put cords through holes.

Nate_in_AK · Sep 10, 2020

aaxiii said:
OMG chest level. genius. I would I could put my big ass tent up high like that. I hate bending down to put cords through holes.

I had to do some basic engineering on the weight load vs that little ass table when upgrading the res size, but I'm only at 2/3rds load. I'll watch it for sagging and brace it if necessary.

Also, XKCD: https://xkcd.com/37/

Frankster · Sep 10, 2020

Here's a chart that explains it well enough. My guess is that in hydro situations, your closer to the "salt" water then the "fresh" water concentrations. The higher the ppm, the lower the overall oxygen "potential" saturation rate.

Another useful diagram regarding co2 concentrations and blackmans principle of limiting factors.
This principle states that when a process is governed by more than one factor, the rate of the process is governed by that factor which is closest to its minimum value.

For example, if a leaf is exposed to a certain amount of light intensity with constant temperature but the CO2 available is less, the rate of photosynthesis will not increase with an increase in the light intensity. Therefore, in this case, CO2 is the limiting factor.

Even in regards to nutrition, it's about maximizing the "limiting" factors.

Now, the note of caution, For example: (note: were talking about atmospheric oxygen on this diagram, not water at the root zone) Optimum levels of oxygen are favourable for photosynthesis. An increase in the oxygen levels beyond the optimum for the plant leads to inhibition of photosynthesis. So there's a set "range" which is optimal, but BEYOND that, causes inhibition (competes w/CO2)

This bottom principle is especially important when considering things like PPM in your solution, because it will increase to a point, but after that point, it will start to inhibit again, and the fall off will be great. (resulting in nutrient locks) ph, respiration rates, light intensity, and temps are all going to factor in on exactly "where" ppm is "most optimal".

Frankster · Sep 10, 2020

I like aqua's approach to these problems, because he effectively "reboots" the plant, allowing it to cool down and rest while the conditions are reset, creating far less stress on the plant, and allowing for things to be ramped up once again in an organized fashion, once the problems are corrected.

Grow #2 - Indoor hydro tent

Grow #2 - Indoor hydro tent

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.

cemchris

cemchris

Nate_in_AK

Nate_in_AK

Aqua Man

Nate_in_AK

Aqua Man

Nate_in_AK

Aqua Man

Nate_in_AK

Aqua Man

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.

Aqua Man

Nate_in_AK

aaxiii

aaxiii

Nate_in_AK

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.

Grow #2 - Indoor hydro tent

Grow #2 - Indoor hydro tent

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.

cemchris

cemchris

Nate_in_AK

Nate_in_AK

Aqua Man

Nate_in_AK

Aqua Man

Nate_in_AK

Aqua Man

Nate_in_AK

Aqua Man

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.

Aqua Man

Nate_in_AK

aaxiii

aaxiii

Nate_in_AK

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.

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