trt92
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I see.. Thc cbd ratio 1:1 how is that like,? Do you even get stoned?Dark Rose Auto CBD 1:1 from elite seeds
also grown Purple Kush CBD Auto 1:1 from seedsman
only time i have grown some auto is because i wanted such colour.
only photoperios strain i know that most pheno turn purple whatever the growing condition is:
Buddha Purple Kush ⢠Buddha Seeds
Buddha Purple Kush non-autoflowering of Buddha Seeds is our tribute to those nice shared moments, the essence of which has been back in this attractive and modernized version. A flashback that will take you back to those wonderful 90's.www.buddhaseedbank.com
most strain that 100% have purple flower guaranted are autoflower.
So you don't really see a difference?well that's really personnal i don't like being too stoned so i find 1:1 real nice, i have been running 1:1 strains for like 2 years now
honeslty i don't really see a difference when my friend give me some thc strains and she don't really see a difference when i give her 1:1 strain
you still get a nice little buzz from some 1:1 strain
well i'd say the difference is kinda the same like if you drink 10 ten beer vs 10 whisky, but you still get a nice high from 1:1, that's what my friend who smoke thc strains all day long otherway says.So you don't really see a difference?
How much decibel does your fans make?
Question about cloning.. Shud i keep 1 or 2 mothers for cloning? Not sure if i would get enogh clones for SOG if i had just 1 mother
Just be aware that having your plants’ “daytime” fall during your night means that when they’re in flower, you will be limited to working on them only when you would normally be sleeping. I just made that mistake.led lamp is just on like 25% now and the tent door is wide open, think the temp will be ok when i close it and run led light at max, weathers getting warmer everyday. i got 16/8 light cycle now. having light on at night and morning since temp outside is coldest then
Just be aware that having your plants’ “daytime” fall during your night means that when they’re in flower, you will be limited to working on them only when you would normally be sleeping. I just made that mistake.
It’s helpful in managing temperatures, but I find I have a very narrow window of time in which to water, feed, inspect, deleaf, tuck, and close everything up.
Or I can stay up all night and sleep all day.
With autos it may not matter much (if any), but I’ve never grown autos so someone else should comment. It seems they are immune from the light cycle requirements of photoperiods.Cant i change light cycle 12/12later on? Veg at night n morning, then when i flower i use 12h at day - evening and no light at night n morning?
good storyOkay, my apologies for being late to the party. I post this without malice. Seriously, no hatred here, just safety for all.
Regarding the MH Lamp, I suggest the OP de-energize the fixture and inspect all connectors for faulty wiring practices. If applicable, simply disassemble each connector to inspect wires for proper mechanical connection that is secure and safe. Google assembly standards for wire connections, with regard to wire strip length, torque requirements etc. I don't expect anyone to have a torque meter, but the idea is to better understand what is acceptable.
After spending some time researching MH, I cannot say with confidence that the connectors used on your new lamp are the same as the connectors used on my TS3000, from 2021. So...this may all be a moot point.
I know MH made some changes to their lineup, and unfortunately image's of the cabling and connectors are not available. So I am unable to comment on your connectors.
In short, the hardware itself is not faulty. The QA/QC, Manufacturing Practices, and Test Protocols are at fault.
Every single, and I mean "specifically" every single mechanical connection inside each connector, on my MH TS3000 were LOOSE.
Apparently, they do not require a torque specification for a mechanical connection that experiences temperature changes on a daily basis over its lifecycle, while the intended usage requires height changes over a grow cycle, meaning...the cables will be moving over time as you adjust the height of the lamp to accommodate your grow. Safely securing the cables and keeping them clear of the drivers and chassis are safe practices otherwise know as cable management.
If my explanation requires more information then suffice to say, ignore my observations.
Having said that...in my personal experience MH would not have been my recommendation to you Sir.
My apologies if I have in any way offended anyone, as this was not my intention.
I still use my MH TS3000, as I was lucky to catch the problem before it started a fire. I have enough confidence in my ability to address the issues and am in the process of replacing it now.
Additionally, MH customer service was as faulty as the lamp.
I sent a video and pictures of my findings, including the observation that all connections were loose. They responded with this..."Our engineers have concluded you have a faulty"T" connector."
The connector they sent is sitting on my shelf. I already addressed the problem myself.
Jeez, I hope I don't get my ass handed to me for sharing this...hey, just Google, "Mars Hydro and cable fires etc.
Best to you.
That makes sense and the time line is spot on. I am telling you everyone was short on man power. In short people were doing jobs they shouldn't have been doing without training. I seen it on the big3 end I know what happened. Hell a supplier by me was offering 4k signing bonuses 20$hr to start. They were desperateOkay, my apologies for being late to the party. I post this without malice. Seriously, no hatred here, just safety for all.
Regarding the MH Lamp, I suggest the OP de-energize the fixture and inspect all connectors for faulty wiring practices. If applicable, simply disassemble each connector to inspect wires for proper mechanical connection that is secure and safe. Google assembly standards for wire connections, with regard to wire strip length, torque requirements etc. I don't expect anyone to have a torque meter, but the idea is to better understand what is acceptable.
After spending some time researching MH, I cannot say with confidence that the connectors used on your new lamp are the same as the connectors used on my TS3000, from 2021. So...this may all be a moot point.
I know MH made some changes to their lineup, and unfortunately image's of the cabling and connectors are not available. So I am unable to comment on your connectors.
In short, the hardware itself is not faulty. The QA/QC, Manufacturing Practices, and Test Protocols are at fault.
Every single, and I mean "specifically" every single mechanical connection inside each connector, on my MH TS3000 were LOOSE.
Apparently, they do not require a torque specification for a mechanical connection that experiences temperature changes on a daily basis over its lifecycle, while the intended usage requires height changes over a grow cycle, meaning...the cables will be moving over time as you adjust the height of the lamp to accommodate your grow. Safely securing the cables and keeping them clear of the drivers and chassis are safe practices otherwise know as cable management.
If my explanation requires more information then suffice to say, ignore my observations.
Having said that...in my personal experience MH would not have been my recommendation to you Sir.
My apologies if I have in any way offended anyone, as this was not my intention.
I still use my MH TS3000, as I was lucky to catch the problem before it started a fire. I have enough confidence in my ability to address the issues and am in the process of replacing it now.
Additionally, MH customer service was as faulty as the lamp.
I sent a video and pictures of my findings, including the observation that all connections were loose. They responded with this..."Our engineers have concluded you have a faulty"T" connector."
The connector they sent is sitting on my shelf. I already addressed the problem myself.
Jeez, I hope I don't get my ass handed to me for sharing this...hey, just Google, "Mars Hydro and cable fires etc.
Best to you.
il try that , if its to cold i gues il buy a hps light for the mother tent ...? or led on both and just control temp with oven... but i think temp wil be ok at spring to late summer, but a problem at winteryou should test what's the temperature is like when tent closed with lamp @100% (1m from the seedling) and oven on.
yeah until you've monitored rh and temperature over a whole years it's hard to know what's best, but yeah you may want a 400W HPS in winter even in your 90x90 tent. hps are rather cheap compared to led so that's no a that huge invest .il try that , if its to cold i gues il buy a hps light for the mother tent ...? or led on both and just control temp with oven... but i think temp wil be ok at spring to late summer, but a problem at winter
yeah until you've monitored rh and temperature over a whole years it's hard to know what's best, but yeah you may want a 400W HPS in winter even in your 90x90 tent. hps are rather cheap compared to led so that's no a that huge invest .
i never heard of clonex spray but i did use some clonex gel years ago with great results, now i m doing my clone in all mix, i dip the cutting in honey and water with root juice, acti vera, bio heaven, got plenty of roots in small cups after two weeks doing so wich is pretty similar as with clonex gel
about how many mothers in a 40x40 i think 2 mothers in 20x20 area and 40x20 area for clones.
might be easy for 9 clones, average for 16 clones, and more difficult for 25 clones
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