How To Properly Root And Veg In The Uc

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click80

click80

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Looks like you are very close click80, some minor tweaks and you should be good to go@!

IMO, I think you just let the root mass and zone in general get to dry. I think the perlite kept/held enough moisture high enough into the cube/plug if that makes sense.....

When you build up a good root mass like that you have to watch the moisture levels really close and see where the "barrier" is where things dry out up near the stem. To much moisture and you get stem rot issues, not enough and the root system will die out.

I don't know if you saw underneath the last picture...they were pics from my last grow....I basically did everything the same as this one but last time I didnt use great white...I don't think that is the problem, actually I am sure of it.

and yes i do know what you mean I have been searching my memory to try and remember what I could have done different. Maybe to high a ppm too fast and some other factors might have all contributed....

. I basically wait until the cube is very light before watering, but not to the point where it is wilting...I have heard of a Temporary Wilt Point way of watering, but I don't know if you want clones to do that...I think that might be more for when they are in Veg and you don't water until they show the first signs of wilting. I assume that helps build up root mass quick because you are forcing the roots to grow and seek water.

This time I could not get the roots to grow into the hydroton hardly at all, def nothing like that....once I put them into the Rwool, they looked great, never drooped, and roots were poking through the bottom withint three days...lots of fuzzy whites showing, then they just stopped. I just wonder why they would not expand into the hydroton....It has to be that I either let them get too dry, or too wet....I will have to work on this... But I guess you can see why I was so disappointed this time after having roots like that last time...I wonder if could have done it in perlite and got it to clean out before putting into the hydroton...something to think about...

well,
 
click80

click80

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12ml/gallon H2O2

Okay been up all night watching the rez, plants etc...

I changed the rez...kept everything superclean, did wipedowns with bleach and H2O2. I put the plants into pots. Did a foliar with Serenade just for shits and giggles.

If you look back in the thread you will see where i posted about one time I screwed up reading directions on bottle of 29% H2O2 and adding it in at 3ml/liter (12ml/gallon) instead of the actual 3ml/gallon. So after filling rez up last night I said wtf and added H2O2 in at 12ml/gallon. It seems to have worked so far. Lots of fizzing and bubbling when it hit the hydroton and RW cubes. Roots (the little bit there were growing out of the cube) look/smell much better. Res is fine, smells good and clean, water is very clear. The plants didn't look bad to begin with but as of this morning they are perkier, leaves were not drooping before but they did not have that nice V shape, they were flat, now they are much more oriented towards light.

Not only did I use the H2O2 at 12ml/gallon, but I after running a flood with just a 10% nute solution and the H2O2 I added Zone in at 1ml/gallon and ran a half a flood, just enough so that the water came up just to very bottom of cubes. No ill effects at all. I did keep the PH at 6.2. I did a lot of reading yesterday and found a study done at I think a pig farm, where they tested diff brands/strengths of H2O2. They found that all of them were more reactive to spores at a PH around 6.0 to 6.5, with 6.2 being optimal.

Anyway, sorry for the rambling posts yesterday I was really stressing. I have only had nasties in my roots/rez one other time and I hate that smell. It reminds me a sewage. It's gross. This grow is going to put me into UC's so I don't want anythiing to screw that up.
 
johnnyrex

johnnyrex

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Has anyone tried to run the same nutrient profile at the start of veg exactly like DS has it stated at 4-5ml/gl with h202 @ 1ml/gl with any success, cause I tried it and failed horribly my clones wilted and caused it to have white slim on the roots.
 
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ZombieSlave

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Has anyone tried to run the same nutrient profile at the start of veg exactly like DS has it stated at 4-5ml/gl with h202 @ 1ml/gl with any success, cause I tried it and failed horribly my clones wilted and caused it to have white slim on the roots.

i would use zone over h202 imho.
read how to use it on there site.
 
Z

ZombieSlave

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click80 do your self a huge favor if your gona veg outside the UC. make a aero tote/bucket for veg. be sure to get a cheap 1/10hp water chiller for it. spend the 50$ on PVC/TOTE/and PUMP and have your self a medium-less rooting box for your UC? IMHO.
 
click80

click80

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click80 do your self a huge favor if your gona veg outside the UC. make a aero tote/bucket for veg. be sure to get a cheap 1/10hp water chiller for it. spend the 50$ on PVC/TOTE/and PUMP and have your self a medium-less rooting box for your UC? IMHO.

Thanks, yeah I know...but I am ready for when I get a UC system, I have an EZ Cloner 120 in the closet and I have a 1/4 hp Active Aqua chiller. I bought them back when I had a partner and thought having a partner was a good idea...long story there for sure...I have built a few cloners, at the time I got tired of having to keep three seperate home built ones going at a time so i splurged on the EZ 120.

The lights just went on a little while ago and they are doing good. The roots are def looking better. I am trying to decide now on if to flood or not...I think i should let that rockwool dry out as much as i can. I think I will Foliar with some Thrive Alive and Spray-n-gro.

I want to say again that I don't have a UC yet. I take the liberty, and I hope it doesn't piss ya'll off, of getting advice from the UC people/threads because I get migraines from sitting on the computer too long and the UC threads/people have the most going on IMO. When I am looking for info it's usually easier coming to the UC threads to get that info.

I apologize again for all the rambling posts, I get really frustrated and overthink shit through the keyboard.
 
Z

ZombieSlave

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i use liquid light and saturator for mine and I can see where my money goes fo sho

well good luck to your roots.
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

1,177
83
30 bucks for a liter of industrial soap that has a recommended dose of 10X more then needed.

you can see where your money is going and you keep spending it?
 
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phup

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I have run DS's profile in the Aeroflow at 3-4ml/gal Dyna with great success. The culitvar I am using cannot handle really strong solutions, so one needs to adjust these recommendations in response to their own particular circumstance. I found I could transfer directly from AF after 10-14 days into the UC where I started them off with DS's H&G profile with an EC of 0.7-0.8. Don't expect this to work if you don't have a robust root system that has already been exposed to an EC in the Aeroflow that is also the same strength.
I had poor results the first time, but did not take into account that I was going from vegging under t-4's to HID bulbs. Remember to keep your lights waaaaaay up for the first 4-5 days after transfer.
 
johnnyrex

johnnyrex

429
28
I have run DS's profile in the Aeroflow at 3-4ml/gal Dyna with great success. The culitvar I am using cannot handle really strong solutions, so one needs to adjust these recommendations in response to their own particular circumstance. I found I could transfer directly from AF after 10-14 days into the UC where I started them off with DS's H&G profile with an EC of 0.7-0.8. Don't expect this to work if you don't have a robust root system that has already been exposed to an EC in the Aeroflow that is also the same strength.
I had poor results the first time, but did not take into account that I was going from vegging under t-4's to HID bulbs. Remember to keep your lights waaaaaay up for the first 4-5 days after transfer.



I think that was my issue I don't have a aeroflo per say but an aeroponic style tub they did very well with the same nute profile but once I put them in the UC they just stalled my lights were way up maybe my R/H was low not to low 35-40 % ok thats low, or than again it might of been the nutrient strength as I'm running white Og strain. Well we will see next round how they do. Thanks phup
 
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phup

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I think that was my issue I don't have a aeroflo per say but an aeroponic style tub they did very well with the same nute profile but once I put them in the UC they just stalled my lights were way up maybe my R/H was low not to low 35-40 % ok thats low, or than again it might of been the nutrient strength as I'm running white Og strain. Well we will see next round how they do. Thanks phup

Ok, if lights were up the question is why did they stop taking up water. If your EC was relatively the same (slightly lower would be best) in ur previous sys we can elimante nute strength as the cause of stalling since your plants already demonstrated they could handle it. Your RH is crazy low. In soil u might get set with the ambient room RH being low while the leaf proximity RH is higher due to evaporation from the soil. This does not happen in the UC. Due to accelerated growth u need to have those stomotas open or the plants will not transpire, which means they won't transport water. I've noticed anything under 50 my leaf tips start to curl and at 35-40 RH they twist like crazy.
50 should be absolute minimum in veg.
 
johnnyrex

johnnyrex

429
28
Ok, if lights were up the question is why did they stop taking up water. If your EC was relatively the same (slightly lower would be best) in ur previous sys we can elimante nute strength as the cause of stalling since your plants already demonstrated they could handle it. Your RH is crazy low. In soil u might get set with the ambient room RH being low while the leaf proximity RH is higher due to evaporation from the soil. This does not happen in the UC. Due to accelerated growth u need to have those stomotas open or the plants will not transpire, which means they won't transport water. I've noticed anything under 50 my leaf tips start to curl and at 35-40 RH they twist like crazy.
50 should be absolute minimum in veg.

You know what that exactly what I have notice UC needs levels 50+% R/H I acutually just posted in the UC concern post section agin haing problems with my plants after here were doing so well if any one can check it out and help thanks
 
H

hogan400

859
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I noticed a touch of root rot in my veg and cant identify what caused this. I pruned it out and cleaned/bleached my equipment. Added fresh nutes and I'll go from there...

my questions,
I like the profile you recommend for late veg with dynabloom, cal mag, epsom. I'm currently using dmaster grow a/b, cal-mag, zone. My plants are roughly 10" tall and have decent roots. Will this profile aid in the repair of my root growth or could the nute change cause me too much stress at this point?
Also is there a particular epsom you use or just the standard retail product?
Im not in the uc yet so this is for perpetual rswc 3x3 tray with air stones, Im certain this profile will work however does the strength change out of the uc?
 
QuarterbackMo

QuarterbackMo

810
93
how did you keep your roots so white?

that was most definitely the h2o2... ds I have read this thread before this is good shit here buddy. I'm really rereading your rooting strategy (dynagro bloom+calmag)... The dynagro is dirt cheap too. I usually go right from my aero cloner right to the uc and run straight hg from the jump... So far my best run in the uc was off 3ml per gallon calmag at take off and up to 5 by the start of week 1 bloom (2 veg weeks)... you were dead on about that epsom salt that shit cleared right up...I think im about to try your rooting formula in the uc for the first 7 days then I'm gonna flush and hit them with the hg and see how it goes. The way I usually do it grows up big plants fast but the leaves always have a hard look to them they aren't nice and soft and pretty like they are suppose to be. Like they feel soft and look nice but there is just one extra notch they could be at that they never get to for some reason... What do you think that is? I know you know what I'm talking about what the leaves...
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

1,177
83
The dyna profile kills early on, but its been problematic to go back to a rooting profile after the plants have already progressed to another profile.

in short, i would run the dyna profile out of the gate in the aero, and then either not go back to it, or just run it for 2-3 days at start of the UC. But not more then that.

and nothing wrong with 3-6 mls of cal-mag. N is always going to be the most needed element in your profile.
 
QuarterbackMo

QuarterbackMo

810
93
The dyna profile kills early on, but its been problematic to go back to a rooting profile after the plants have already progressed to another profile.

in short, i would run the dyna profile out of the gate in the aero, and then either not go back to it, or just run it for 2-3 days at start of the UC. But not more then that.

and nothing wrong with 3-6 mls of cal-mag. N is always going to be the most needed element in your profile.

Maybe a day 1 veg foliar feed with dynagro bloom @ 1/4 strength just to give them a boost? I noticed it usually takes about 3 to 4 days in the uc to start seeing some significant rooting going on... Maybe that pk boost from the foliar feed would speed that process up or at least help it.
 
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