DemonTrich
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Removing the green tint is easy. Just place your jar in your clone or veg room for 12hrs or so. The light will negate the green tint. Been doing it that way for 4+yrs.
This^^^^^^^... spot onIf you are dabbing it, it's much less harsh if you leave it in contact with the alcohol less than 30 seconds and freeze everything overnight.
www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/recovering-everclear
The "SCET" method or Slow Cold Ethanol will output maximum cannabinoid content while keeping the chlorophyll and plant waxes locked away in a frozen state. Extraction yield will be 17% to 19% while your oil should look more translucent like maple syrup.
Stick all your ethanol and product in the freezer for at least 12 hours. Once your ethanol reaches the coldest temperature your freezer can provide you are done, its not going to get colder by waiting any longer but you do want your product to freeze so 12 hours should be fine.
Mix your product with your ethanol in a jar with a lid and give it a good shake, put back in the freezer for 12 hours. After 12 hours shake again and put back in the freezer for another 12 hours, shake one last time and strain to get the big stuff out.
Strain through a coffee filter, for high amounts you want to do it through several filters at the same time to avoid warming up your ethanol. At those extremely low temperatures things will get stuck in the filter which would be liquid at room temperature. This is commonly referred to as "winterizing" or filtering while cold."
Thats why your washes are so dark if you let them sit in the alcohol for 12 hours in the freezer.
Removing the green tint is easy. Just place your jar in your clone or veg room for 12hrs or so. The light will negate the green tint. Been doing it that way for 4+yrs.
a couple years ago i bought this still to make rso for a friend. i was freezing and washing with frozen materials but i wasnt filtering in the freezer and thought id see if it would make a difference. thats where i am now.I disagree..the material should be strained for each "shake" wash..then frozen for 24 hrs and filtered through a coffee filter to remove waxes and lipids. Each wash should be kept separate..when your solvent is "loaded" with oil..the stripping action is decreased..that's why it's good to use fresh each wash. Never leave the leaf material in solvent.
proofs in the pudding..I'll post up a run done right to see what I can get with alcohol still. Ya see alcohol boils at 173*..the lowest boiling point of a mix is always what the mean temp will be when heating to boil.Those distillers are fine for edibles but it kills the terps, I like my terps. I use some silicone measuring cups and the stove burner on the lowest setting, barely gets hot, you can put your hand on it.
this isnt the water distiller that boils water at 212 deg. mine is a lower wattage and heats to 174 degrees.Those distillers are fine for edibles but it kills the terps, I like my terps. I use some silicone measuring cups and the stove burner on the lowest setting, barely gets hot, you can put your hand on it.
iso boils at closer to 180, an that's gonna depend on your elevation.proofs in the pudding..I'll post up a run done right to see what I can get with alcohol still. Ya see alcohol boils at 173*..the lowest boiling point of a mix is always what the mean temp will be when heating to boil.
I've melted my run after evap without still in the oven at over 200* and still had terps galore. I'm mostly worried about viscosity of the wax. But the key to not burning off terps is to leave some solvent remaining as to not over-heat the terps.
All this in theory..will post results
Im @ 482' and using everclear. I just have to know if I can create slab using a still to recover. If I fail..I'll just use the still for rso and go to quick wash iso for smokeable waxiso boils at closer to 180, an that's gonna depend on your elevation.
hahaha..I mean who wouldn't want to have this information..makes it that much more exciting for me. Although, I do have plenty of reservations about the success of it. But at the same time I can't find any relative answers on extraction results, by using heat in solvent vs outside of solvent. The terp situation I'm not as concerned about as I'll be below any volatile temps. It's more about how an extract will behave with heat as high as 173*. My prediction is that even with a pristine extract, it will be more viscous compared to a lower heat. I plan to temper any viscous result after evap..by re-heating raw extract slowly to liquid.I jus picture u in a lab, labcoat with lots of beaker's an tubes goin everywhere. Ha ha talkin bout....one more test, jus one more... Ha ha ha
All good buda couple years ago i bought this still to make rso for a friend. i was freezing and washing with frozen materials but i wasnt filtering in the freezer and thought id see if it would make a difference. thats where i am now.
generally i wouldn't leave it sitting in the everclear, this i have never tried before. by all means the 10 second wash is the clearest prettiest and maybe best tasting but will yield less than a longer wash.
ive done a 10 sec a 20 sec and a 60 second wash. common sense tells me the longer wash will yield more. im filtering it again in the freezer now.
not meaning to hyjack your thread GT21
Thats not always true...another guy did a 20 second and 1 minute wash and had no real difference in yield.... once the stripper melts the trichs its done.... alcohol is not going to melt a leafa couple years ago i bought this still to make rso for a friend. i was freezing and washing with frozen materials but i wasnt filtering in the freezer and thought id see if it would make a difference. thats where i am now.
generally i wouldn't leave it sitting in the everclear, this i have never tried before. by all means the 10 second wash is the clearest prettiest and maybe best tasting but will yield less than a longer wash.
ive done a 10 sec a 20 sec and a 60 second wash. common sense tells me the longer wash will yield more. im filtering it again in the freezer now.
not meaning to hyjack your thread GT21