JACKS BACK!!! Capulators new formulas.

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Savage Henry

Savage Henry

Hey cap or someone who knows , can you direct me to the veg recipe and bloom recipe and feeding schedule threads for jacks hydro? I purchased all the jacks plus all the other salts and have been reading for days and now my mind is so frizzled I can't concentrate. It looks like the formula is changing everyday I read lol. Thank you cap and others for doing this it's amazing how they mark these bottled nutes so high. Well hopefully they learn a valuable lesson. Spread the cheap word sink their ship.

Same formula will work for both veg and bloom

Per gallon:

3grams jacks hydro
2 grams calcium nitrate
1 gram epson salt.

Add jacks, then Epsom, then calnit

Cheers!
 
eebwen

eebwen

I am currently running jacks hydro 321 I am trying to run Capulators formulas.
Jacks hydro
Cal nitrate
Epsom salt
Most
Cal chloride
Mkp
Map
 
eebwen

eebwen

I have read this whole thread. I am running aeroflow setup. Capulator wrote that fatman runs aeroflow at 35% strength for veg and 30% strength for bloom but every time I keep reading it seems all the numbers are being changed every time someone posts a reply. Like I said I'm fried at this point and just need a little direction, thanks
 
hermit186

hermit186

No two people mix it by a book anymore. I thought like you when I came here. A sea of numbers and no one is really sharing there exact formula trust me. You will find that no two strains finish just the same.
I started with 321 which is 80% of what Jacks recommends. I grow in a conex which is limited
on space and heat is a problem in the sun and the trees I planted grow slowly. All of that and I uses a modification of Caps formula but had to change a few things because of the heat and extra silica to beef up the stalks.
If your just starting to play with the Nutrients and there numbers . I read a lot of Cap's stuff and reading seamaiden is not wasted time and you will never read them all.
I use 321 from veg to flip I use silica for better stalks I use Blackstrap because I believe seamaiden it needs to be there just a little bit. I use Cannazyme to dissolve my roots.
When I flip is a new day I back off the 321 to about 80% and add the Moab after second week of flower
cut silica cut cannazyme add blackstrap.
I don't use cal/mag because the N it brings is just to much
I use Cal25 or Epsom salt both as foliar sprays and not together I spray as the ligts go off and the plant
absorbs it nicely. If you spray with lights on it can burn the plants Led's make magnifying glasses out of the drops.
You need air movement I have fans to the point that te leaves move around just a bit not a storm.
I run Drip to drain (out to garden) I mix my mixture and let stand 24 hours with fountain pump to keep moving
Ph is for coco 5.8 and ppms around 700 to 900 I run for 1min 30 sec three times a day. I moniter my in and out readings. In the beginning I had no idea what to do with the numbers there are folks here that can tell you what they mean.
Tempature and Humidity are very important.
Oh last thing my cost per-run is about $68 not including my electric bill
I grow in pure coco 2/3 fine 1/3 course
I flush only when needed
I flush at the end for 3days just phed ro water.
Is my way the best hell no but is still good smoke.
In my opinion the single most important thing to success is PH
All the chemistry the sales people want to you use is mostly snake oil and water.
When you start mixing chemistry then you get PH problems.
IT'S A WEED
 
eebwen

eebwen

No two people mix it by a book anymore. I thought like you when I came here. A sea of numbers and no one is really sharing there exact formula trust me. You will find that no two strains finish just the same.
I started with 321 which is 80% of what Jacks recommends. I grow in a conex which is limited
on space and heat is a problem in the sun and the trees I planted grow slowly. All of that and I uses a modification of Caps formula but had to change a few things because of the heat and extra silica to beef up the stalks.
If your just starting to play with the Nutrients and there numbers . I read a lot of Cap's stuff and reading seamaiden is not wasted time and you will never read them all.
I use 321 from veg to flip I use silica for better stalks I use Blackstrap because I believe seamaiden it needs to be there just a little bit. I use Cannazyme to dissolve my roots.
When I flip is a new day I back off the 321 to about 80% and add the Moab after second week of flower
cut silica cut cannazyme add blackstrap.
I don't use cal/mag because the N it brings is just to much
I use Cal25 or Epsom salt both as foliar sprays and not together I spray as the ligts go off and the plant
absorbs it nicely. If you spray with lights on it can burn the plants Led's make magnifying glasses out of the drops.
You need air movement I have fans to the point that te leaves move around just a bit not a storm.
I run Drip to drain (out to garden) I mix my mixture and let stand 24 hours with fountain pump to keep moving
Ph is for coco 5.8 and ppms around 700 to 900 I run for 1min 30 sec three times a day. I moniter my in and out readings. In the beginning I had no idea what to do with the numbers there are folks here that can tell you what they mean.
Tempature and Humidity are very important.
Oh last thing my cost per-run is about $68 not including my electric bill
I grow in pure coco 2/3 fine 1/3 course
I flush only when needed
I flush at the end for 3days just phed ro water.
Is my way the best hell no but is still good smoke.
In my opinion the single most important thing to success is PH
All the chemistry the sales people want to you use is mostly snake oil and water.
When you start mixing chemistry then you get PH problems.
IT'S A WEED
 
eebwen

eebwen

Most excellent, I couldn't have put all those feelings into words. Ya it started out as a jacks thread and turned into a chemistry class. I love this stuff and I guess I'm going to have to turn into a mad scientist like everyone else. I will read sea maiden, thank you for the referral. They should make everyone read your post before they read this thread. DANGER WARNING read this post before wasting 2 years of your life trying to figure out how to run these numbers.
 
hermit186

hermit186

Waisted time was time you learned nothing from.
Make your measurement exact
Write everything down
Which ever media you choose find a regular here that uses it.
He will have seen it all twice
Which ever Nutrients you use, use there's and no cross brands
Several of the hookie aftermarket will grow the biggest, best, better than the rest and be perfect. They have
hormones and cause things like stretch the plant out or bush it up.
When you start mixen them up your making a 3rd hormone and life goes to hell quickly.
I like many here have screwed with a lot of them but have found that
mother nature has no use for them and with out her we are dead.
 
eebwen

eebwen

I started out wanting to just be a farmer, now I got my Ph.D. I'll be running jacks 321
No two people mix it by a book anymore. I thought like you when I came here. A sea of numbers and no one is really sharing there exact formula trust me. You will find that no two strains finish just the same.
I started with 321 which is 80% of what Jacks recommends. I grow in a conex which is limited
on space and heat is a problem in the sun and the trees I planted grow slowly. All of that and I uses a modification of Caps formula but had to change a few things because of the heat and extra silica to beef up the stalks.
If your just starting to play with the Nutrients and there numbers . I read a lot of Cap's stuff and reading seamaiden is not wasted time and you will never read them all.
I use 321 from veg to flip I use silica for better stalks I use Blackstrap because I believe seamaiden it needs to be there just a little bit. I use Cannazyme to dissolve my roots.
When I flip is a new day I back off the 321 to about 80% and add the Moab after second week of flower
cut silica cut cannazyme add blackstrap.
I don't use cal/mag because the N it brings is just to much
I use Cal25 or Epsom salt both as foliar sprays and not together I spray as the ligts go off and the plant
absorbs it nicely. If you spray with lights on it can burn the plants Led's make magnifying glasses out of the drops.
You need air movement I have fans to the point that te leaves move around just a bit not a storm.
I run Drip to drain (out to garden) I mix my mixture and let stand 24 hours with fountain pump to keep moving
Ph is for coco 5.8 and ppms around 700 to 900 I run for 1min 30 sec three times a day. I moniter my in and out readings. In the beginning I had no idea what to do with the numbers there are folks here that can tell you what they mean.
Tempature and Humidity are very important.
Oh last thing my cost per-run is about $68 not including my electric bill
I grow in pure coco 2/3 fine 1/3 course
I flush only when needed
I flush at the end for 3days just phed ro water.
Is my way the best hell no but is still good smoke.
In my opinion the single most important thing to success is PH
All the chemistry the sales people want to you use is mostly snake oil and water.
When you start mixing chemistry then you get PH problems.
IT'S A WEED
I read on a tomato forum that foliar feeding calcium chloride is a waste of time because the calcium sprayed on the leaves has no way of making it's way to the fruit. What say you?
 
hermit186

hermit186

Read Cap about calcium chloride (fat man wrote about 3 pages which I don't understand I added cause Cap was using.) which I add to my nutrients mix.
For Foliar sprays I use Calcium25 or 9.7% Calcium EDTA.
Cal25 is a bit pricy so I use for apparent problems response is fast.
Calcium EDTA is my nuts and bolts foliar spray.
If you get your base formula down the only changes are strain dependent
Example is the plant is not a freek and is over 50%white strain. I add extra Calcium chloride to the mix
and spray once a week with a light dose of EDTA.
You will learn that feeding a seed before day 7 is going to slow it down.
Clones I do at 25% for 3 days then up 25%for 3 more days and all of it after that.
My PH in and out are close but the ppms tell you how they are eating.
If your ppms go up in coco your feeding to much or have a Ph problem.
In the veg time I run 5.6 to start I use a 45 gal reservoir and adjust the PH up .1 every other day that reservoir lasts for 5 or 6 days and finishes at 6.2
I use the enzymes that I add to dissolve the roots that die off to raise the PH
When I came here I learned why to use calcium chloride and when I learn how to make my plants strong enough that if you move them they don't fall over. I re-learned what I thought I new.
Mostly I learned to be very mind full of the ladies they are talking to you you just don't understand yet.
If you read about how to fix your plants pick one and hang with it but be slow and not radical changes.
Tomatoes are not a weed and there is a big differance
 
eebwen

eebwen

Read Cap about calcium chloride (fat man wrote about 3 pages which I don't understand I added cause Cap was using.) which I add to my nutrients mix.
For Foliar sprays I use Calcium25 or 9.7% Calcium EDTA.
Cal25 is a bit pricy so I use for apparent problems response is fast.
Calcium EDTA is my nuts and bolts foliar spray.
If you get your base formula down the only changes are strain dependent
Example is the plant is not a freek and is over 50%white strain. I add extra Calcium chloride to the mix
and spray once a week with a light dose of EDTA.
You will learn that feeding a seed before day 7 is going to slow it down.
Clones I do at 25% for 3 days then up 25%for 3 more days and all of it after that.
My PH in and out are close but the ppms tell you how they are eating.
If your ppms go up in coco your feeding to much or have a Ph problem.
In the veg time I run 5.6 to start I use a 45 gal reservoir and adjust the PH up .1 every other day that reservoir lasts for 5 or 6 days and finishes at 6.2
I use the enzymes that I add to dissolve the roots that die off to raise the PH
When I came here I learned why to use calcium chloride and when I learn how to make my plants strong enough that if you move them they don't fall over. I re-learned what I thought I new.
Mostly I learned to be very mind full of the ladies they are talking to you you just don't understand yet.
If you read about how to fix your plants pick one and hang with it but be slow and not radical changes.
Tomatoes are not a weed and there is a big differance
I think they were talking to me last night so I sprayed with Epsom salt, they look a little better this morning. I'm running aero flow jacks321 30 % strength for flower plus caps extra salts. 35% strength with out the extra salts for veg. Fatmans formula.
 
hermit186

hermit186

Remember this is an old habit I get a cold beer and sit in the flower room with the lights out and talk to them.
I also have found that they like old music but think they will grow to rap they are your ladies treat them that way.
I have for got to mention that I use Liquid light and a saturator every 10 days from veg to 2nd week of flower.
If you don't have a saturator it's easy add one drop dish soap to your foliar sprays it help the girls skin and lets them absorb the mag better.
 
eebwen

eebwen

Remember this is an old habit I get a cold beer and sit in the flower room with the lights out and talk to them.
I also have found that they like old music but think they will grow to rap they are your ladies treat them that way.
I have for got to mention that I use Liquid light and a saturator every 10 days from veg to 2nd week of flower.
If you don't have a saturator it's easy add one drop dish soap to your foliar sprays it help the girls skin and lets them absorb the mag better.
My ladies love rocknroll with a nutrient cocktail
 
hermit186

hermit186

I am a bit older and throw in some Do Op but I have learned that if your there at lights out and this is my time.
I do my foliar sprays I look for hermie signs some times is just one or two banna's. When the lights go out use a head light but remember your not spotting deer. a light to bright will give you false yellow color this being
Led's I use a miner light with new hotter batteries and that is closer to natural than Led's. With the right music and before second beer. I don't smoke in there. You will get the hang of it -Cal is so easy to see you will not believe it. For 18months I grew White Strain and the light after dark was someone here and damn it works the purple of stems and leaf structure jumps out and says need +Mag. I don't do many pictures but I keep good notes.

While your reading Cap some times he is confusing but as I have read a lot of his stuff when you get to that point you will have your own mix. I hate to use othere than here stuff but marijuana-deficiency-chart-jorge-Cervantes.
I have read a lot of this guy. The only reason I send you here if you get a light not Led's What you see in the dark is just like the pictures and you will see it. They will be highlighted like the picture. Then go to Sea for what to use to fix.
The chemistry I use and remember I have a unique growing environment inside a conex.
5-12-26 2.7gr/g
15.5-0-0 2.8gr/g other than white strains 2.2 gr/g
mgso4 .5gr/g
k2so4 .5/g
CaCl2 .5/g
mkp .2/g
silica 4m/l/g every other mix.
Most you need to mix 30 gal and .4gr total. (Careful is not intended for constant use. I add at 2nd week once and with the enzume mix.
All most all of this is common stuff. The measurements need to be consistent. My cost per grow is about 80 bucks.
I run this from veg week 2 to week 5.
I run my PH from 5.6 to 6.2 and 850 to 950.ppm
at week 5 I look at them and decide what to change.
Here the get a dose of enzymes to clean up the roots.
Because of econ I run my lights at night it's cooler and saves me 18% on electric bill.
I make my changes and then I move to flip not on time but on how tall it is and will get.
When I Flip I change to the basic 3-2-1. and at end of week 1 of flower I change to 50% strength of 321 and MOAB + backstrap (enzyme food).
I use drip to drain so my Nutrient and PH stay constant the PH will creep up but you want that.
The drain dose my garden and The heat is a factor when I lowered the temperature on the plants. It effects the Nutrients and the PH ( I have meter but use drops if I am not happy I back up with meter) out bound. There are several others that have used similar to this and not had success. I grow one strain at a time. If the genetics are close I will grow 2 but I grow from seed and clone. I don't transplant. I start in a 3 gal Pot and end in it. I don't grow auto I do fem and regular.
I understand the dictionary how ever it's named weed Work on that one.
 
Crysmatic

Crysmatic

fwiw jack's already has plenty of magnesium. drop the epsom! i.e. 3g jack's, 2g calcinit per USgal. just maintain your EC. Everything is already there in adequate amounts (perhaps a couple ppm iron will help). if you're getting more leaf than bud, learn to manage EC and water better. KISS
 
G

Genesis1 29

2
1
4 hours to read the whole thread. Thanks everyone. Going to be placing an order of jack's pretty quick.
 
hermit186

hermit186

fwiw jack's already has plenty of magnesium. drop the epsom! i.e. 3g jack's, 2g calcinit per USgal. just maintain your EC. Everything is already there in adequate amounts (perhaps a couple ppm iron will help). if you're getting more leaf than bud, learn to manage EC and water better. KISS
I use both E.C. and ppm but have a Ph meter I might use one a week I use drops if it dons't seem right to me then the meter.
That formula changes buy the strains and you can read all you want but the Cross breeds need different mixture than the true strains and in the cross breeds it depends which is the dominate strain.
The White strains has to have a lot more C from day one. However if you grab the cal/mag you will have a very good chance that in the 2 weeks of veg after the flip you will see Ntox it will come on in days and you will chase your tail and end up not happy with the finish.
Everyone here is looking for the right mix but if you run a simple 3-2-1 and add MOAB during flower you will grow good smoke and with a good taste. Tweeking the mix for the strain will add as much as 20% so is worth the time.
The one I posted was trying to show my base and the fact some things need to be there all the way thru and not just at the end. To this day I have no understand of why fatman (who is a nut)wanted to add CaCl2 but it makes a difference to me, is not something I can explain but I see the difference and the plants seem better.
fwiw jack's already has plenty of magnesium. drop the epsom! i.e. 3g jack's, 2g calcinit per USgal. just maintain your EC. Everything is already there in adequate amounts (perhaps a couple ppm iron will help). if you're getting more leaf than bud, learn to manage EC and water better. KISS
I use Most and am very careful with it I mix in quantities that make it easy and Iron is almost never a problem but I have it in reserve but only a few times in the last year I have added Iron.
 
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