JACKS BACK!!! Capulators new formulas.

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xavier7995

xavier7995

@hermit186 thanks for the informative posts. Off to read up on cacl2 and if it has a place in my garden.

I have found silica to be an indispensable addition beyond the basic ingredients.
 
eebwen

eebwen

@hermit186 thanks for the informative posts. Off to read up on cacl2 and if it has a place in my garden.

I have found silica to be an indispensable addition beyond the basic ingredients.
I read about this when reading about tomatoes and this works wonders:
Calcium chloride borax foliar feed recipe:
32 ounces water
1.2 grams calcium chloride
.03 grams borax
Ph 6.5-6.8
My red veins started disappearing in about 4 days.
Google calcium chloride and borax
 
hyzerflip

hyzerflip

Hey prodigy plain old jacks, cal nit, epsom 3,2,1 beats veg+bloom imo. Ran multiple runs of both in dtw rockwool. Jacks plus fulpower and a moab kick = best. By best I mean: yield, taste, smell and bag appeal all for way less $$$'s than veg+bloom.

How much FulPower are you using? Is it safe to use in a reservoir that's mixed / ph'd once per week?
 
S

Stesk317

2
1
Hi,

Thinking about switching to Jack's. I have some questions about what "Bennies" y'all are using. And I don't mean the calcium or other powder additives listed. I'm interested whether or not I need to be adding some B vitamins, enzymes, acids, maybe some mamoth-p? Also I was wondering what silicates to use that mix in well with Jack's and don't cause "the cloud?" I'm definitely nervous to make the switch and I think I just need to trust the science behind the product. It's confusing when y'all are doing such different things than what Jack's tells me on the phone. It is great to see everyones shared data though. It's been very insightful about what to make sure I have before just diving into this though. The only other tough part for me is sometimes it's hard to find some of your suggestions usable in the Colorado marijuana production guidelines.

Thanks
Stesk
 
hyzerflip

hyzerflip

Hi,

Thinking about switching to Jack's. I have some questions about what "Bennies" y'all are using. And I don't mean the calcium or other powder additives listed. I'm interested whether or not I need to be adding some B vitamins, enzymes, acids, maybe some mamoth-p? Also I was wondering what silicates to use that mix in well with Jack's and don't cause "the cloud?" I'm definitely nervous to make the switch and I think I just need to trust the science behind the product. It's confusing when y'all are doing such different things than what Jack's tells me on the phone. It is great to see everyones shared data though. It's been very insightful about what to make sure I have before just diving into this though. The only other tough part for me is sometimes it's hard to find some of your suggestions usable in the Colorado marijuana production guidelines.

Thanks
Stesk


I'm interested to hear about vitamins / micros / enzymes as well.

One note on silica - Most silica is potassium silicate, and Jack's already has a TON of potassium. Too much potassium makes calcium and magnesium much less available. I used to use 1ml/gal of Protekt with Jacks, then .5ml/gal, and now I'm not using any at all. It looks better without than with, for what it's worth. Maybe foliar with silica occasionally instead?
 
S

Stesk317

2
1
I'm interested to hear about vitamins / micros / enzymes as well.

One note on silica - Most silica is potassium silicate, and Jack's already has a TON of potassium. Too much potassium makes calcium and magnesium much less available. I used to use 1ml/gal of Protekt with Jacks, then .5ml/gal, and now I'm not using any at all. It looks better without than with, for what it's worth. Maybe foliar with silica occasionally instead?

Awesome, thanks for the warning. Still waiting for it to arrive so all of the previous application knowledge I can gain is awesome. I'll have to do some more reading to see who was saying they had some good luck with a potassium boost. They were commenting on it being in very small amounts. I just want to make sure I'm getting the root results that cap had posted as far as Bennies go.

Also, I had questions about other Jack's additives and if anyone has had good results? Like their "Clone, Fe+Mg (Greener), Finish," their other micro boost thats not "MOST," etc... Or, for clones and babies do you use the same formula just at a lower percentage?
 
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Spacekadet42

Spacekadet42

3
3
I am currently running jacks hydro 321 I am trying to run Capulators formulas.
Jacks hydro
Cal nitrate
Epsom salt
Most
Cal chloride
Mkp
Map

Noob looking to switch over to jacks 321 pro. Can someone fill me in on what “most” is?
 
planesane

planesane

I am waiting on a irrigation sutabilty test results as requested by my mentor. I have been shotgunning my plants for years and had decent success. I really need to learn wtf I'm doing as far as nutrients go. Once I get the results we plan to switch to salts.
 
Spacekadet42

Spacekadet42

3
3
I reordered Jacks Hydro and Jacks Calnitrate and apparently they have new packaging and the cal-nit is a little different. I emailed jr peters and they told me to continue using it as I was.
 
scubascrog

scubascrog

I reordered Jacks Hydro and Jacks Calnitrate and apparently they have new packaging and the cal-nit is a little different. I emailed jr peters and they told me to continue using it as I was.
I love jacks so much but not enough to actually buy their cal-nit which is 2x more expensive than greenway biotech on amazon btw :) save yourself 10 bucks.
 
bankcee

bankcee

yeah its too easy to KISS with jacks. DTW is superior, especially since you dont have to adjust anything ever. Plus, if you feed the same formula all the way through you can pretty much get one big ass res (or a big holding tank and little res)... fill it up, add the nutes, and that's it. set it and forget it. I like 20 seconds on and an hour off for 6" cubes the whole way through. I actually use the same schedule for my 12 gallon coco buckets as well and the plants thrive on it. With how cheap the nutes are, I never worry about wasting.

know this thread is old but trying to bring it back to life!! hahaha

20 seconds on hour off? all day everyday? is everyday a feed day or what’s your rotation to water feed flush?
 
bankcee

bankcee

No MOAB week 8 flush week 9



My jacks 3,2,1 ppm at 50% is usually around 500 or a 1.0. I have always had better yields if I use MOAB in week 6 and 7 vs Jacks 3.2.1 so I'm thinking Black Magic should help. I have not used it so I can't comment for sure. Please let us know how it worked out.

IMHO Jacks 3,2,1 is the way to go. I spent $110 on 25lbs of jacks and cal nit plus some epsom salt in January and have plenty left. I DTW in rockwool 100 plus gallons a week.
how many times a day do you feed in rockwool? and how many days of the week are feed days vs water days?
 
H

Hwmpunk

What can you tell me about that initial caps formula vs the one from greengene gardens


Cap is using a ton of additives to get his 120-40-210-120-60 and 108 sulfur, but with the formula in the video which is simply something like 2g jacks, 2.7g cal nite, 2g epsom and 1.2g moab (pic attached) it seems to be better than caps numbers with the exception of mag. Btw moab aka mkp is the same as moraleaf you can buy 50lb of it for $80 at an ag store. And also agsil is the cheapest silica you can get


What do you think of this cap formula vs the video one? And what is most? Do you think it's worth going through all that to achieve 50% more mag but 50% less cal? I'd say cal is much more important for weight.


I just found out about that YouTube formula, but I've been simply knocking calnite to 50% from week 2-4 then no more, while going 50% jacks but 1g moraleaf week 4.5 and week 6 no more jacks and 2-2.5 moraleaf until flush. I cut calnite in an attempt to cut all that nitrogen but it obviously leads to deficiency and reduced weight.


When cap defoliates does he go hard or pull less than 10%, even on week 4? How clean do you keep it for penetration? I use coco beds with 9-16 plants per 4x4. Sog style and it goes full Amazon with that much nitrogen. Which is my BIGGEST problem with jacks. We should be at 50% nitrogen through the stretch, and zero nitrogen after week 4. That much nitrogen through stretch causes even more stretch, too much energy to more fan leaves, not a proper 100% donkey dick cola formation if it stayed more squat. And also all that nitrogen causes weaker cell membranes. But we can't cut nitrogen because of the calcium which to me needs to stay full power until flush. I'm looking into just buying straight calcium from RAW or yara viva makes some too. Yara also has cheaper calnite. It's expensive but only needed for about 23 waterings until flush
 
hyzerflip

hyzerflip

imo the whole idea that plants need different nutrient levels at different stages is hogwash. In nature, a plant growing in the ground has access to all the nutrients it needs and it takes up what it needs as it needs it. The ground does not have high nitrogen at the beginning of the season and low N high P at the end of the season. It has basically the same nutrients throughout the year.

I grow all of my plants using 3.7g Jacks / 2.5g CalNit per gallon from freshly rooted clone all the way through flower and I've never had better yields or higher quality flower.

There is zero need to fuck about with EC levels or cutting / adding certain things at different stages. KISS. Your plants need a well rounded diet that contains all the nutrients they eat, and they'll decide what to uptake as they need it.

The idea that plants need hand fed is ridiculous on its face, it makes zero sense whatsoever.

Check out the Jungle Boys segment (starts @ 7:20) on Marijuana Mania Ep #4, they say the exact same thing.


What can you tell me about that initial caps formula vs the one from greengene gardens


Cap is using a ton of additives to get his 120-40-210-120-60 and 108 sulfur, but with the formula in the video which is simply something like 2g jacks, 2.7g cal nite, 2g epsom and 1.2g moab (pic attached) it seems to be better than caps numbers with the exception of mag. Btw moab aka mkp is the same as moraleaf you can buy 50lb of it for $80 at an ag store. And also agsil is the cheapest silica you can get


What do you think of this cap formula vs the video one? And what is most? Do you think it's worth going through all that to achieve 50% more mag but 50% less cal? I'd say cal is much more important for weight.


I just found out about that YouTube formula, but I've been simply knocking calnite to 50% from week 2-4 then no more, while going 50% jacks but 1g moraleaf week 4.5 and week 6 no more jacks and 2-2.5 moraleaf until flush. I cut calnite in an attempt to cut all that nitrogen but it obviously leads to deficiency and reduced weight.


When cap defoliates does he go hard or pull less than 10%, even on week 4? How clean do you keep it for penetration? I use coco beds with 9-16 plants per 4x4. Sog style and it goes full Amazon with that much nitrogen. Which is my BIGGEST problem with jacks. We should be at 50% nitrogen through the stretch, and zero nitrogen after week 4. That much nitrogen through stretch causes even more stretch, too much energy to more fan leaves, not a proper 100% donkey dick cola formation if it stayed more squat. And also all that nitrogen causes weaker cell membranes. But we can't cut nitrogen because of the calcium which to me needs to stay full power until flush. I'm looking into just buying straight calcium from RAW or yara viva makes some too. Yara also has cheaper calnite. It's expensive but only needed for about 23 waterings until flush
 
H

Hwmpunk

imo the whole idea that plants need different nutrient levels at different stages is hogwash. In nature, a plant growing in the ground has access to all the nutrients it needs and it takes up what it needs as it needs it. The ground does not have high nitrogen at the beginning of the season and low N high P at the end of the season. It has basically the same nutrients throughout the year.

I grow all of my plants using 3.7g Jacks / 2.5g CalNit per gallon from freshly rooted clone all the way through flower and I've never had better yields or higher quality flower.

There is zero need to fuck about with EC levels or cutting / adding certain things at different stages. KISS. Your plants need a well rounded diet that contains all the nutrients they eat, and they'll decide what to uptake as they need it.

The idea that plants need hand fed is ridiculous on its face, it makes zero sense whatsoever.

Check out the Jungle Boys segment (starts @ 7:20) on Marijuana Mania Ep #4, they say the exact same thing.

While I agree with the logic, it's just not what all the experienced hydro growers I know say. My proof comes from seeing their ridiculous product but also that it mostly stems from gen hydro which is three part. Why would green hydro recommend 321 aka three parts grow, two parts micro, and one part bloom in early veg, but then go to 222 and 123 in flower, finally finishing at 014 for late bloom? Again I agree with you but makes no sense that they would suggest that if the recipe might as well be 222 the whole time.

One other issue is all this feed interval talk. I've always been on the theory that in flower you want to have wet and dry cycles to trick the plant into thinking the season is running out to produce more resin to catch pollen. If you're watering every three min for thirty secs I don't see how the proven wet dry cycle can be achieved. This is why you see growers like the jungle boys use small grow cubes, to root bound the plant in order to get the most wet dry cycles possible.
 
hyzerflip

hyzerflip

Why would green hydro recommend 321 aka three parts grow, two parts micro, and one part bloom in early veg, but then go to 222 and 123 in flower, finally finishing at 014 for late bloom? Again I agree with you but makes no sense that they would suggest that if the recipe might as well be 222 the whole time.

Why would a company try to convince you that you need to buy more products from them? I dunno man, I feel like you can figure that one out by yourself. :D
 
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