Savage Henry
- 960
- 143
Hey cap or someone who knows , can you direct me to the veg recipe and bloom recipe and feeding schedule threads for jacks hydro? I purchased all the jacks plus all the other salts and have been reading for days and now my mind is so frizzled I can't concentrate. It looks like the formula is changing everyday I read lol. Thank you cap and others for doing this it's amazing how they mark these bottled nutes so high. Well hopefully they learn a valuable lesson. Spread the cheap word sink their ship.
What about the mkp map calcium chloride most? Feeding scheduleSame formula will work for both veg and bloom
Per gallon:
3grams jacks hydro
2 grams calcium nitrate
1 gram epson salt.
Add jacks, then Epsom, then calnit
Cheers!
No two people mix it by a book anymore. I thought like you when I came here. A sea of numbers and no one is really sharing there exact formula trust me. You will find that no two strains finish just the same.
I started with 321 which is 80% of what Jacks recommends. I grow in a conex which is limited
on space and heat is a problem in the sun and the trees I planted grow slowly. All of that and I uses a modification of Caps formula but had to change a few things because of the heat and extra silica to beef up the stalks.
If your just starting to play with the Nutrients and there numbers . I read a lot of Cap's stuff and reading seamaiden is not wasted time and you will never read them all.
I use 321 from veg to flip I use silica for better stalks I use Blackstrap because I believe seamaiden it needs to be there just a little bit. I use Cannazyme to dissolve my roots.
When I flip is a new day I back off the 321 to about 80% and add the Moab after second week of flower
cut silica cut cannazyme add blackstrap.
I don't use cal/mag because the N it brings is just to much
I use Cal25 or Epsom salt both as foliar sprays and not together I spray as the ligts go off and the plant
absorbs it nicely. If you spray with lights on it can burn the plants Led's make magnifying glasses out of the drops.
You need air movement I have fans to the point that te leaves move around just a bit not a storm.
I run Drip to drain (out to garden) I mix my mixture and let stand 24 hours with fountain pump to keep moving
Ph is for coco 5.8 and ppms around 700 to 900 I run for 1min 30 sec three times a day. I moniter my in and out readings. In the beginning I had no idea what to do with the numbers there are folks here that can tell you what they mean.
Tempature and Humidity are very important.
Oh last thing my cost per-run is about $68 not including my electric bill
I grow in pure coco 2/3 fine 1/3 course
I flush only when needed
I flush at the end for 3days just phed ro water.
Is my way the best hell no but is still good smoke.
In my opinion the single most important thing to success is PH
All the chemistry the sales people want to you use is mostly snake oil and water.
When you start mixing chemistry then you get PH problems.
IT'S A WEED
I read on a tomato forum that foliar feeding calcium chloride is a waste of time because the calcium sprayed on the leaves has no way of making it's way to the fruit. What say you?No two people mix it by a book anymore. I thought like you when I came here. A sea of numbers and no one is really sharing there exact formula trust me. You will find that no two strains finish just the same.
I started with 321 which is 80% of what Jacks recommends. I grow in a conex which is limited
on space and heat is a problem in the sun and the trees I planted grow slowly. All of that and I uses a modification of Caps formula but had to change a few things because of the heat and extra silica to beef up the stalks.
If your just starting to play with the Nutrients and there numbers . I read a lot of Cap's stuff and reading seamaiden is not wasted time and you will never read them all.
I use 321 from veg to flip I use silica for better stalks I use Blackstrap because I believe seamaiden it needs to be there just a little bit. I use Cannazyme to dissolve my roots.
When I flip is a new day I back off the 321 to about 80% and add the Moab after second week of flower
cut silica cut cannazyme add blackstrap.
I don't use cal/mag because the N it brings is just to much
I use Cal25 or Epsom salt both as foliar sprays and not together I spray as the ligts go off and the plant
absorbs it nicely. If you spray with lights on it can burn the plants Led's make magnifying glasses out of the drops.
You need air movement I have fans to the point that te leaves move around just a bit not a storm.
I run Drip to drain (out to garden) I mix my mixture and let stand 24 hours with fountain pump to keep moving
Ph is for coco 5.8 and ppms around 700 to 900 I run for 1min 30 sec three times a day. I moniter my in and out readings. In the beginning I had no idea what to do with the numbers there are folks here that can tell you what they mean.
Tempature and Humidity are very important.
Oh last thing my cost per-run is about $68 not including my electric bill
I grow in pure coco 2/3 fine 1/3 course
I flush only when needed
I flush at the end for 3days just phed ro water.
Is my way the best hell no but is still good smoke.
In my opinion the single most important thing to success is PH
All the chemistry the sales people want to you use is mostly snake oil and water.
When you start mixing chemistry then you get PH problems.
IT'S A WEED
I think they were talking to me last night so I sprayed with Epsom salt, they look a little better this morning. I'm running aero flow jacks321 30 % strength for flower plus caps extra salts. 35% strength with out the extra salts for veg. Fatmans formula.Read Cap about calcium chloride (fat man wrote about 3 pages which I don't understand I added cause Cap was using.) which I add to my nutrients mix.
For Foliar sprays I use Calcium25 or 9.7% Calcium EDTA.
Cal25 is a bit pricy so I use for apparent problems response is fast.
Calcium EDTA is my nuts and bolts foliar spray.
If you get your base formula down the only changes are strain dependent
Example is the plant is not a freek and is over 50%white strain. I add extra Calcium chloride to the mix
and spray once a week with a light dose of EDTA.
You will learn that feeding a seed before day 7 is going to slow it down.
Clones I do at 25% for 3 days then up 25%for 3 more days and all of it after that.
My PH in and out are close but the ppms tell you how they are eating.
If your ppms go up in coco your feeding to much or have a Ph problem.
In the veg time I run 5.6 to start I use a 45 gal reservoir and adjust the PH up .1 every other day that reservoir lasts for 5 or 6 days and finishes at 6.2
I use the enzymes that I add to dissolve the roots that die off to raise the PH
When I came here I learned why to use calcium chloride and when I learn how to make my plants strong enough that if you move them they don't fall over. I re-learned what I thought I new.
Mostly I learned to be very mind full of the ladies they are talking to you you just don't understand yet.
If you read about how to fix your plants pick one and hang with it but be slow and not radical changes.
Tomatoes are not a weed and there is a big differance
My ladies love rocknroll with a nutrient cocktailRemember this is an old habit I get a cold beer and sit in the flower room with the lights out and talk to them.
I also have found that they like old music but think they will grow to rap they are your ladies treat them that way.
I have for got to mention that I use Liquid light and a saturator every 10 days from veg to 2nd week of flower.
If you don't have a saturator it's easy add one drop dish soap to your foliar sprays it help the girls skin and lets them absorb the mag better.
I use both E.C. and ppm but have a Ph meter I might use one a week I use drops if it dons't seem right to me then the meter.fwiw jack's already has plenty of magnesium. drop the epsom! i.e. 3g jack's, 2g calcinit per USgal. just maintain your EC. Everything is already there in adequate amounts (perhaps a couple ppm iron will help). if you're getting more leaf than bud, learn to manage EC and water better. KISS
I use Most and am very careful with it I mix in quantities that make it easy and Iron is almost never a problem but I have it in reserve but only a few times in the last year I have added Iron.fwiw jack's already has plenty of magnesium. drop the epsom! i.e. 3g jack's, 2g calcinit per USgal. just maintain your EC. Everything is already there in adequate amounts (perhaps a couple ppm iron will help). if you're getting more leaf than bud, learn to manage EC and water better. KISS
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?