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Lies our fathers told us humidity

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Lies our fathers told us humidity

Moses249 207 Replies 261,762 Views
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No. Adding heat reduces relative humidity. Remember that humidity is relative to temperature. If the moisture level in the air remains the same- expressed as dewpoint, or the temperature at which humidity reaches 100%- then humidity rises as temps fall. The limit is, of course, dewpoint.

Going the other way, or adding heat, brings relative humidity down. Beware of this phenomenon when running your grow room at higher temps, anything over 78. You will want your RH to be way up near 70% at these temps, to protect the plants from over transpiration and wilt. Keeping your RH up will also maximize your co2 uptake, by letting the plant's stomata remain open and allow this gas exchange.
 
No. Adding heat reduces relative humidity. Remember that humidity is relative to temperature. If the moisture level in the air remains the same- expressed as dewpoint, or the temperature at which humidity reaches 100%- then humidity rises as temps fall. The limit is, of course, dewpoint.

Going the other way, or adding heat, brings relative humidity down. Beware of this phenomenon when running your grow room at higher temps, anything over 78. You will want your RH to be way up near 70% at these temps, to protect the plants from over transpiration and wilt. Keeping your RH up will also maximize your co2 uptake, by letting the plant's stomata remain open and allow this gas exchange.
Just so happen to have a swamp cooler,, would I use this in place of an airconditioner?
 
If its dry yes but if its humid it will not work as well . If fill mine with ice
 
No. Adding heat reduces relative humidity. Remember that humidity is relative to temperature. If the moisture level in the air remains the same- expressed as dewpoint, or the temperature at which humidity reaches 100%- then humidity rises as temps fall. The limit is, of course, dewpoint.

Going the other way, or adding heat, brings relative humidity down. Beware of this phenomenon when running your grow room at higher temps, anything over 78. You will want your RH to be way up near 70% at these temps, to protect the plants from over transpiration and wilt. Keeping your RH up will also maximize your co2 uptake, by letting the plant's stomata remain open and allow this gas exchange.

you ever been in a room full of healthy plants and see for yourself what actually happens when temps rise above 80f? i ask because you keep regurgitating the same 70% hum info or plants wont use co2 as if you have nothing left to learn lol.i searched a bit on your threads and all i could find was a fluffy nug that is def NOT masterkush and some tiny plants in a long thread about turning it inside out?are you saying plants grown in 20% rh dont use co2?is there not one grower here at the farm growing dank in the desert or very dry conditions of arizona?pot plants have a protective resin on them unlike lettuce or tomatoes that helps keep the leaves from drying out in the hot sun,the dryer the air the more resin these plants create.we want as much resin,oils,and thc as possible on those leaves and buds right?nevermind that last question,i like the pics do the talking,if you want dank smoke lower your rh,if you want big fluffy mids for profit by all means run at 70%rh and blow up the co2:wtf:

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those ^^^^^^^^^^ are aliendawg @ 54 days 78f and 30% rh all day every day lol.

and heres what my masterkush looks like in the same room
Mk  65 wks

Mk 5wk


Mk pro mix


oh and im pretty happy with my yields cause oil weighs more than leaf,imo of course;)
 
You can do BETTER, Six. I used to argue the same thing. And I was wrong.
It's science. Nobody is saying you're goin to hell as a lost sinner; don't be offended. Drop that rh at the end of your bloom and they resin up just as well. Follow vpd chart and put more weight on without sacrificing one bit of quality.
Nice grow, by the way.
 
Yeah theres always room for improvement in everyones grow but I really cant see the benefit of a touch more weight vs potential mold or fungus problems.i used to run high rh 60 to 70% and I got more fluff down low and my plants were not as sticky.you notice the sticky part during trim.im tickled to get these resultz from my 600's im not a cash cropper, my patients expect top shelf and I try to give them the best every time.
Im not saying higher rh wont work.but everybody's garden is different, feed strength, medium, lumens per sq ft, ect, all play a role in the final outcome. My plants just come out better overall with very low rh.you search around the net on pm or bud rot and the common factors are high rh and lack of air circulation 99% of the time
 
You can do BETTER, Six. I used to argue the same thing. And I was wrong.
It's science. Nobody is saying you're goin to hell as a lost sinner; don't be offended. Drop that rh at the end of your bloom and they resin up just as well. Follow vpd chart and put more weight on without sacrificing one bit of quality.
Nice grow, by the way.

Thanks. I could not have said it better.
 
Just so happen to have a swamp cooler,, would I use this in place of an airconditioner?

The way Swamp cooling works is by taking advantage of water's property of 'latent heat of vaporization'. When water molecules go from a liquid to a gaseous state, they soak up a bunch of excess heat. This is why the air coming out of a Swamp cooler feels cool- and moist.

This effect is not as powerful as actively cooling air with AC, but it will help. The extra moisture in the air will also work to make the air temperature more stable, as more mass in the air requires more calories of heat added or removed to change it.

Expect your AC to start draining a lot of water as it removes the water you are putting in. Some AC units have an efficiency, or low power setting that won't cool the coils as much, use it if yours has such a setting.

Let me know how it works!
 
Hot air holds more humidity than cold are bud....

Yes it does, which is why as temperature rises, the ability of the air to hold more moisture also rises. Therefore, as temp rises, the proportion of moisture it IS holding drops compared to the amount of moisture it COULD hold drops:

IS/COULD = RH. RELATIVE humidity gets smaller as temp goes up, because the denominator rises in the equation to the left.

Relative isn't referring to Aunt Maude, is there to remind us that the humidity number is dependent on temperature.

If you want a number to describe the amount of moisture in the air that is independent of temperature, that's dewpoint. Of course, it's expressed as a temperature! "Dewpoint is 65 degrees" This is the temp at which the air is fully saturated and won't hold another drop.

I don't do this as well as Squiggly, I hope my explanations are helpful.
 
The way Swamp cooling works is by taking advantage of water's property of 'latent heat of vaporization'. When water molecules go from a liquid to a gaseous state, they soak up a bunch of excess heat. This is why the air coming out of a Swamp cooler feels cool- and moist.

This effect is not as powerful as actively cooling air with AC, but it will help. The extra moisture in the air will also work to make the air temperature more stable, as more mass in the air requires more calories of heat added or removed to change it.

Expect your AC to start draining a lot of water as it removes the water you are putting in. Some AC units have an efficiency, or low power setting that won't cool the coils as much, use it if yours has such a setting.

Let me know how it works!
I have always run my flower room at 78 % and rh around 40.. after water of course it raises ... but believe and strive to do better always .. Thanks Tyys....and everyone else..
 
I have access to a sulfur burner and i have some neem, which one would you guys advise as a better preventative?
 
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